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Daddy3x
20th October 2009, 12:06 PM
Here it is, two pieces destined for the fire pit, so a shot at hollowing. Used the oland to rough out the outside completetely, then smoothed with a fresh edge on it. Hollowed it, then got stuck. Had to use bowl gouge to even the wall thickness, slightly larger taper out near the bottom.

On the smaller piece, any suggestions on how to better profile the bottom into the sides? I used a sharp roundnose scraper and ended up putting a nice ring in it. Oh well, a nice pencil cup for the bench.

thefixer
21st October 2009, 07:02 AM
I have found that due to my limited skills and fear of scrapers that the hook tool is great for hollowing goblets. I made my own from the instructions on this web site. Wood Turning Hook Tool: Make Your Own (http://www.aroundthewoods.com/hooktool.shtml)
A very effective tool especially on endgrain. If you search "you tube" you will find some good videos that demonstrate how it it used.


Cheers
Shorty

artme
21st October 2009, 08:24 AM
Well Daddy, that is a good effort for a first, and you no doubt learnt plenty.

Just had a squizz at the site listed by the fixer. Very enlightening.

Daddy3x
21st October 2009, 09:03 AM
I'm really taking a liking to hollowing, especially with that tool. Very aggressive or delicate. By putting more grind on the left side , obviously more effective use could be had, rather than having to grab the bowl gouge to even it all up?

hughie
21st October 2009, 12:45 PM
I'm really taking a liking to hollowing, especially with that tool. Very aggressive or delicate. By putting more grind on the left side , obviously more effective use could be had, rather than having to grab the bowl gouge to even it all up?
It all boils down to getting a bit more experience under your belt. Look at what John Jordan does with his version of Oland tools.

The up side is the learning curve is very user friendly and easy to master. By the time you have done a few more bowls etc you be off and running. :2tsup: with the best of 'em.

Have a go at varying the shape of your Oland tool to suit the what you want done at the bottom of your hollow vessels.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
22nd October 2009, 11:08 AM
:whs: Most of my tips have more grind on the LHS, what I call a "bull-nosed" profile.

Well done!

Daddy3x
22nd October 2009, 02:12 PM
Thanks all. Experimented bit and decided to try a garden mushroom I saw on Around the Woods.

Narrower stem next time around? Something ain't looking right.

artme
22nd October 2009, 09:48 PM
That's one for Calm. A stubby mushroom to turn on a Stubby lathe!:D:D:q

Paul39
23rd October 2009, 12:08 PM
Thanks all. Experimented bit and decided to try a garden mushroom I saw on Around the Woods.

Narrower stem next time around? Something ain't looking right.

Stick it back on the lathe and make the stem skinnier.

I like it otherwise.

Manuka Jock
23rd October 2009, 05:20 PM
I like the idea .
How would it go if they were turned to finish out of green wood , so that as they dry they 'naturalize' (deform) :wink:

Daddy3x
24th October 2009, 08:11 AM
Tree was chainsawed 2 hours prior to turning...chest was soaked and water dripping off the wall behind the machine. Winter is rolling in so we will see how it changes in the spring/summer, got it sitting outside in my parent's flower garden. A neighbor want one to put indoors but wants it to be drier so there is less chance to mold. Can something this thick ever dry out much? I am thinking that putting it in the oven on low is not an option :no:

bellyup
24th October 2009, 09:41 AM
If you want to see extrordinary things happen to green wood( it has to be thin though, say under 5mm (3/16th in.,soft wood is better than hard wood) place it in the microwave on high for a few minutes. It could come out looking very interesting with wavey edges (or it might crack and catch fire - search "microwave" on this forum for some funny stories). I believe that hot ovens work as well but haven't tried it myself.

Ed Reiss
24th October 2009, 11:41 AM
Here it is, two pieces destined for the fire pit, so a shot at hollowing. Used the oland to rough out the outside completetely, then smoothed with a fresh edge on it. Hollowed it, then got stuck. Had to use bowl gouge to even the wall thickness, slightly larger taper out near the bottom.

On the smaller piece, any suggestions on how to better profile the bottom into the sides? I used a sharp roundnose scraper and ended up putting a nice ring in it. Oh well, a nice pencil cup for the bench.

That's pretty much a common happening for beginners. The best way to improve the cut that far off the tool rest is, ready for this, get as much of the tool rest into the piece as far as possible. This will provide the necessary support for your choice of tool to make sweet cuts that far in. There is a boxmakers tool rest available which goes straight in and gives the necessary support for making clean cuts. Also, instead of holding the tool flat on the bar, angle it slightly so that it is making a negative cut.
Hope this helps Daddy3x and good luck:2tsup: