Using the Henry Taylor beading tools

[rsser]

As requested by Jeff ...

1. Flute up
2. Tool tip well down, lined up with the workpiece 'equator'
3. Feed in slowly with slight side to side swivel motion; the imaginary pivot point ideally should be the tool tip, not the tool rest, so there's a wee bit of sliding on the rest.

Best results with a fresh ground edge (no surprise there).

The swivelling seems to give a cleaner cut, and with the larger beading tools means not all the edge is in contact at the one time and that reduces the chance of a catch.

The tool produces an inset bead with half a V cut either side; leave it that way or turn the shoulders away for a free-standing bead.

You sharpen the 3 bevel faces and they must meet at the edges of the flute.

Clear as mud?

[Pat]

:huh:

:please2:

:pics:

:worthless:

[rsser]

Pic of the business end

[jefferson]

Thanks, Ern, I'll go out and try again.

I know I'm "scraping" but I do need my beads to be the same - however I get there. :rolleyes:

[rsser]

Nothing wrong with scraping IMO unless it leaves a lousy finish. You can do very little correction sanding with beads - they lose their shape before you can say 'oh sh*t'.

The HTs are said to be best for medium density timbers but with a fresh edge I've had good results with softer ones. You just need a light touch.

And yes, one of their virtues is a regular result.

[jefferson]

Ern,

I forgot to ask - do you sharpen these tools with a jig? I was thinking of using the flat plate on the Tormek.....

DJ uses the Hamlet beading tools but I don't like how you sharpen them at all.

[rsser]

No jig Jeff; just use a platform. I don't hone either; use straight off an 80 grit Alox wheel.