The top 100 turning tips (mk 2)

[jefferson]

This is (another) gentle reminder to those of you that turn well. I am trying to put the "best" tips together for new turners, just like me. We need your help.

Please do not assume that we know the "basics". Books, DVDs etc are not enough.

If you are too embarrassed to post publicly, send me a PM. I promise not to name / shame you.

Assume nothing. You buggers do so many things that seem second nature that you probably do not think are worth mentioning.

For example, up at Proserpine, Jim (Powderpost) was using the bandsaw and wanted to square up the ends. He simply put the blank into the blade and scored one face, probably at or near 90 degrees. (I can do that. :D:D).

He then flipped the blank over and cut free-hand to the scored "line".

So simple, but I would not have thought of it. (I would have probably got the square out if needed).

Think of this as a Work In Progress. It's not just for me. Think of the next guy, just starting out.

I don't want to write a book, just collect all your knowledge. One or two liners.

For example - and I hope we can agree on this - "Buy one quality chisel and learn to use it before spending any more..."

Or, in the alternative: "Don't buy 'chisel sets', Chinese or otherwise. Buy what you need."

Another simple one: "Learn to sharpen first..... Make sure your chisels are sharp". (I'm not saying Tormek sharp).

Plus the most important one: "Practice makes perfect. Turn every day if you can. Ten minutes a day, not one hour on the weekend."

So please respond with any and all of your "tips". The list is growing and needs to get longer.

[Grumpy John]

Number 1 rule for me.......... If it's no longer fun or enjoyable, give it up.

[rsser]

When slopping on the Shellawax, stand aside when you fire the lathe up.

.... and: metho cleans wet Shellawax off glasses :D

[TTIT]

Never thought this necessary but I saw a guy at Prossy who wasn't on to it.

TIP: Stir your EEE before use in the hot weather as the abrasive settles to the bottom and you end up just waxing.:2tsup:

[Ozkaban]

For example, up at Proserpine, Jim (Powderpost) was using the bandsaw and wanted to square up the ends. He simply put the blank into the blade and scored one face, probably at or near 90 degrees. (I can do that. :D:D).

He then flipped the blank over and cut free-hand to the scored "line".

So simple, but I would not have thought of it. (I would have probably got the square out if needed).


:2tsup: What an awesome, simple idea.

My tip would be that when starting out, get tuition. Go to a class (or 3) and/or join a club - it will make turning a lot more enjoyable a lot sooner. Oh, and what a few have said - constant practice!

Cheers,
Dave

[rsser]

Think finishing can be a whole new chapter.

inc keep your finishes and glues in a cool place to prolong their life.

[oldiephred]

Do not stand "in the line of fire" when statring up a new (on any) turning.
Keep your standing area clean, ready for an immediate exit.

[hughie]

I don't want to write a book, just collect all your knowledge. One or two liners.



Jefferson, Maybe not but a book would be a good idea, if only to have them collected in one place and cataloged so they would be easy to find .

[rsser]

My knowledge usually doesn't come in one liners. I was trained to talk in multiples of 50 minutes :D

Jeff, have you trawled through the Woodturning Info sticky thread above?

[hughie]

My knowledge usually doesn't come in one liners. I was trained to talk in multiples of 50 minutes :D



:2tsup:

[jefferson]

My knowledge usually doesn't come in one liners. I was trained to talk in multiples of 50 minutes :D

Jeff, have you trawled through the Woodturning Info sticky thread above?

Ern, please forgive my ignorance. What the sticky thread????

[powderpost]

Bore a small hole (about 3mm) in both ends of a spindle for the centre pin of the spur drive and for a cone centre, especially for hard woods. Otherwise the spur drive may "free wheel".
Jim

[NeilS]

.... and: metho cleans wet Shellawax off glasses :D

........:ear-to-ear smile:

[brendan stemp]

When putting the foot of a bowl in a scroll chuck press with one finger only in the centre of the bowl to ensure the bowl runs true. Using all fingers and thumb can apply uneven pressure to one side and result in a wobbly bowl.

DO NOT use fish oil as a lubricant.

Before placing spur drives etc in spindle, blow down the spindle to clear any debris that could damage morse taper or throw it out of true.

It's not what you've got but what you do with it that matters... (message to Stubby owners) :)

[RETIRED]

The bevel must rub to control the cut.
The cutting edge (with the exception of the skew) must be supported by the tool rest.
Tools must be sharp.
Tool rests must be kept free of nicks.
Tool rests should be at least 1-2" longer than the work.

[Broda]

when turning over the bowl to grasp a tenon or expand into a recess, wind the tailstock (with no centre in it) up to the wood and apply a bit of pressure. This not only holds the bowl in place while you tighten up the tommy bars, but also helps align your blank onto the chuck.

Inox is better than WD-40 for around the woodshop becuase its not petroluem based and so it dosent affect the wood

[jefferson]

Brody,

thanks for that one (or two).

I'm still to come up with a one or two sentence "tip" on using the tailstock to centre a piece. Leave it with me for a week (and then some more).

Tip no 209 (from ):

"Listen to the wood. Don't wear ear muffs. When you hear something ticking, stop the lathe..... (if you are fast enough) and find out why....."

[WOODY70]

All this amounts to one thing for beginners.
Listen to the advice from the experienced ones. Take it on board, practice and learn.

Don't shoot down the ones that are trying to assist. You may have a way you like to do things,everyone does, that comes with experience. If you ask for assistance, take it, be grateful, don't proceed to shoot them down because the answer may not agree with yours.

But, think of this, you asked for their opinion/assistance, they have the experience. Quite often they have tried it. Learn from others mistakes and successes.

Beyond all.
It doesn't matter how you get there, the main thing is you have a go and enjoy. If you are happy with your efforts and results, then you have arrived.
Who cares if it's not the best looking piece on the street as long as you are happy and having a go.

Happy Turning, it's the best hobby in the world.

Cheers
Dave

[jefferson]

Geez, Dave, how do I put all of that sentiment into one or two sentences? :rolleyes: (And I agree with all / most of it). Almost everyone - aside from "production" turners - do it differently.

Again, leave it with me. A challenge ahead..... :D

[rsser]

Don't locate your centres in a sap line.

[Manuka Jock]

Don't locate your centres in a sap line.
Or a glue line :- :rolleyes:

[nifty52]

A little smear of EEE on a cloth protects cast iron lathe beds and bandsaw tables.
Just wipe it on, then polish with a dry cloth.

[jefferson]

Keep 'em coming but don't expect a thing this side of Xmas. Gutting the inside of the house, over-lay floorboards, plus a new kitchen to build and install.

Plus fix the shed for the Xmas-New Year bash.

[NeilS]

A little smear of EEE

:2tsup:.... and, if the very fine abrasive in EEE is an issue for any applications, just use a non-abrasive paste wax.

PS - the tailstock grip on the bed can be a bit weak on some lathes, in which case you may not wish to add a lubricant to this problem.

.....

[Ed Reiss]

Keep 'em coming but don't expect a thing this side of Xmas. Gutting the inside of the house, over-lay floorboards, plus a new kitchen to build and install.

Plus fix the shed for the Xmas-New Year bash.

Whew...that's enough to wear a body out :o planning on a long holiday after that Jeff?

[Cliff Rogers]

A little smear of EEE on a cloth protects cast iron lathe beds and bandsaw tables.
Just wipe it on, then polish with a dry cloth.
I find that Trad Wax (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/trad.html) is better.

[rsser]

Lost track of what's been posted so these may be redundant ....

1. When turning green, regularly cinch up the chuck jaws
2. Even when not turning green, check the grip from time to time; friction -> heat -> shrinkage
3. If turning green, a double layer of kitchen wrap over the jaws will stop staining
4. While mounting jaws into a recess for bowl hollowing has had a bad press here recently, I've only once or twice had a failure. I was taught to do it this way, and Raffan says it's his std method. The reason it works is that most jaws have a dovetail and the recess properly cut should match it, so it's a keyed joint and you don't need gorilla pressure outwards. Of course there are some design limitations to the size of the recess, viz. small bowls, where the foot if you have one is going to be too wide to look any good.

If you go the other way and clamp on a tenon foot, in many cases you will have jaw marks that need to be cleaned up. But not if the jaw circumference is close to the tenon's. That means you need to have a good range of jaws/chucks.

5. Drilling a depth hole to set the hollowing range: you can mark the drill bit with a bit of tape, a RE magnet, or my pref is a water-soluble OHP transparency pen. When you're done, you wipe off the mark with a finger. Spit is not even needed.

6. Bed, and banjo & tailstock mating surface maintenance: anything that cleans and lubes works fine if done regularly. Do all the mating surfaces. I've just tried the Top Saver goo and it stays slick for longer than other treatments but it's not worth the 30 bucks.

7. You can't turn if you don't have the latest bestest tools and gear. There is only one way of doing something. You're a failure if you can't meet these standards. So go boating and take your lathe as an anchor. Good night and God bless.

[madcraft]

Don't listen when advised " You can't do that " it's just practice and patience { and a few failures in the learning curve }

[hughie]

3. If turning green, a double layer of kitchen wrap over the jaws will stop staining


When I get stuck for this I use sticky tape, electricians tape etc. The chinese stuff readily peels off :U

If you go the other way and clamp on a tenon foot, in many cases you will have jaw marks that need to be cleaned up. But not if the jaw circumference is close to the tenon's. That means you need to have a good range of jaws/chucks.


5. Drilling a depth hole to set the hollowing range: you can mark the drill bit with a bit of tape, a RE magnet, or my pref is a water-soluble OHP transparency pen. When you're done, you wipe off the mark with a finger. Spit is not even needed.

For me whiteout the correction fluid works fine



6. Bed, and banjo & tailstock mating surface maintenance: anything that cleans and lubes works fine if done regularly. Do all the mating surfaces. I've just tried the Top Saver goo and it stays slick for longer than other treatments but it's not worth the 30 bucks.

One of the simplest ways to keep thing s moving is to use a pencil. The graphite a will act as a lube and the best part it wont attract any dust etc

[NeilS]

Sweet Curves:
The eye is the best way of checking the outside curve and, as others have suggested, view the profile development on the opposite side to the tool.
Fingers are the best way to check the inside curve.
And, if you feel any ridges or valleys, shine a lamp placed some distance horizontally from the toolrest into the form. The shadow line of the toolrest will show the location and size of any irregularities.
.....

[rsser]

Good tips all.

Another curve check is from Terry Scott in NZ: wrap a glue stick around the outside profile.

[Manuka Jock]

When putting the Velcro sanding pads away , leave the last sandpaper disc on .
1. To stop rubbish adhering to the velcro ,
and .
2. So that if you have to revisit the last piece that you were working on , you know what Grit you were up to .

[Texian]

Ern, what's a "glue stick" in NZ? Here it's like semi-solid craft glue in a tube, for paper and crafts (whatever that is). I usually roll a straight ss rule around the profile, and where it doesn't roll smoothly there's a damn flat spot.

[Manuka Jock]

Ern, what's a "glue stick" in NZ? Here it's like semi-solid craft glue in a tube, for paper and crafts (whatever that is). I usually roll a straight ss rule around the profile, and where it doesn't roll smoothly there's a damn flat spot.
There used to be a pub in Auckland known as the GluePot , supposedly because of the stickiness of the carpet .... :U


I hazard a guess that a glue stick is a hot melt glue gun glue stick

[rsser]

That's right MJ.

[Texian]

Thanks Jock & Ern. Guess that could help find flat spots and depressions. Someone on another forum also recently suggested using a string (?) or some such flexible material. Hope I can remember to try it. Maybe better than the "roll a straight edge" method.

[rsser]

I think any of these can work.

Have we covered not leaving green shavings on the bed?

[jefferson]

Geez, guys......

Information overload, Ern and Neil. And yes, Ed, holiday as soon as the crew arrive here on the 28th Dec.

I will get to this one. I promise.

[joe greiner]

Thanks Jock & Ern. Guess that could help find flat spots and depressions. Someone on another forum also recently suggested using a string (?) or some such flexible material. Hope I can remember to try it. Maybe better than the "roll a straight edge" method.
String might be too flexible. Aircraft cable (~3mm or 1/8") could be better for large-scale sweep, plastic tubing for finer.

Cheers,
Joe