Cutting perspex

[Dengue]

I have some 6mm perspex sheets measuring about 300 x 300mm, and wish to remove 20mm from each edge. What is the best way to do that?

Is the tungsten tipped Forstner drill bit suitable for cuttiing a 35mm hole in this perspex? ( see attached). I use it to cut holes for European cabinet hinges

regards,
Jill

[checkerflight]

hi jill, i just use my bandsaw if the piece will fit on table or i use a really fine jigsaw blade and i do not seem to have any problems, i use a hole cutting saw for the 35mm, but there may be better ideas out there, regards (peter) grandad to 14:2tsup:

[Master Splinter]

Any woodcutting tool will work - but put down a few strips of masking tape or similar to protect the plastic from the sole plate of the jigsaw or whatever. (this also works for minimising chipping on the surface)

Don't use too fine a tooth saw bit - they tend to gum up if it gets too hot - just a normal one. Don't try to cut too aggressively, sometimes the plastic can fracture.

If you are routing, you will get covered in fine, electrostatically charged sawdust...err plastic dust, so if you can cut it outside, it'll make less mess of your shed.

[fletty]

Hi Jill, I cut perspex on the table saw with my normal blade HOWEVER you get a much better finish with a zero clearance insert and slow feed.
fletty

[Mulgabill]

:iagree:

[munruben]

Yep I second what the guys have said. especially the masking tape, prevents chip out.

[China]

You can also use the score & snap method to cut perspex

[NewLou]

Gidday

After rough cutting with what ever method desired (Ive always done this within 3mm) HAve had great success with a quality straight bit in the router table. You could even do it topside using a straight edge to guide your router.

Although Ive only done this a few times Ive always got perfect results!

REgards Lou:2tsup:

[artme]

Cutting perspex is fine Jill. Plenty of methods described above.

I have always found drilling to be another matter. Might I suggest you try the Forstner on some scrap before risking your sheet.

[Harry72]

And definitely use a hold down/clamp of sorts while drilling bigger holes like 35mm DAMHIKT!

[BobL]

When cutting best results are achieved with a negative rake blade table saw.

When drilling I think the lube to use is kero

[marker]

The Perspex Workshop Handbook tells you just about everything you want about working Perspex.
http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/plastic_technical_data_sheets/working_with_perspex_manual.pdf
Mark

[weisyboy]

bandsaw, jigsaw, tablesaw, circular saw, router, coping saw, handsaw, chainsaw (dont try this at home, it works), knife (score an break).

a normal wood drill bit will drill holes no problems:2tsup:

[Bob38S]

Have found in my limited perspex experience that the gentle application of heat from a heat gun will eliminate [it goes back to clear] the "white" scratches from cuts or holes - note gentle - get it hot but not so hot that it softens and deforms.

Hope it helps, regards,
Bob

[ronbrunton]

Mark, thanks for the link - from a quick glance the manual looks to be very helpful.
Ron

[murray44]

Nearly any type of normal wood or metal drill or saw will do it.

The key is to work slowly and don't get the perspex hot. Don't push hard or you'll break it for sure.

[Dengue]

I found that my table saw cuts 6mm sheet perspex OK, but had trouble keeping it straight. One end was wider than the other after the cut. Held it down tightly on the bench with a modified wooden concrete float as it went through the blade. Was quite noisy and chattering at the start, but the edge was quite good, surprisingly.

Pushed some MDF through immediately after, and it was dead straight. Checked the fence alignment with mitre slot, and it was spot on.

Any suggestions?

I found the router gave the best edge and easiest cut, with a flush trimming bit and a jig with a couple of toggle clamps on a straight edge

[fletty]

I forgot to mention that u need to be careful that the 6mm perspex doesn't sneak under the fence (as it does on my saw) because, if it does, one end will be wider than the other ....:doh:
I ride the edge against the fence on a piece of aluminium angle which stops it from sneaking under ...
fletty

[Bob38S]

The strips used for joining ceiling fibro are good for keeping any thin bits from sneaking under the fence.

[blackhole]

How about using some double sided tape to fix MDF, ply, chipboard or whatever to the perspex. This will give you a taller edge to run against the fence and you can put another wide strip near the cut line and that will give you mass to minimize chatter.

[BobL]

How about using some double sided tape to fix MDF, ply, chipboard or whatever to the perspex. This will give you a taller edge to run against the fence and you can put another wide strip near the cut line and that will give you mass to minimize chatter.

That's what I do. I use either 3 or 6 mm MDF as a sacrificial support surface. It also reduces scratching when you run it across the saw table surface. A negative raked tooth blade will also give a much cleaner edge. These blades are really useful for ally, plastic and other unusual materials