wet sanded little bowls.

[tea lady]

Was reading through the Polishers Handbook....... as you do :cool:.... and came across a bit about wet sanding green turned bowls. "Good for summer, and green wood." Cool! I'll have a go with some of that Silver Wattle that decided to have a little lie down in the last wind storm. :cool: So here is one of the results.

After sanding to 400#. Neil recommends higher grits, but that is all I go up to at the moment. :D
122885

After finishing with shellawax, and "ShithotWax" cos I can never seem to get it to go in. :doh:
122886

Sitting the right way up. I stiill need to finish the base. I'm in the process of making a doughnot chuck.
122887

After this I went crazy and turned up half a dozen variations on a theme. I decided to give them the freezer treatment though ( just as part of my reseach) before final sanding and waxing. Will finish their bases with my doughnut chuck too. :cool:

Things I discovered?

*It may be hot, but its still not a good idea to stand directly in front of the drips.
*Get water proof sandpaper. Some of mine weren't, and quickly converted themselves to mucky paper with mud.
* Its fun! :D

[artme]

That is some special looking Grain there TL!! Nice plate.:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

TTIT uses Indasa Rhynowet Redline Waterproof abrasive sheets. It goes up to 2500 and apparently is the ducks guts.PM TTIT and find out where he gets it.

I've tried to get some over here and also from the States, but no bugger answers emails or phones.

[Ad de Crom]

TL, that's a pretty looking platter, if I may call it that way.
Sometimes I use a wet piece of clothes, to get the fibers upright for sanding them away, but I think this is a better way. What kind of wood, and is it big?
Thanks for posting.
Ad :2tsup:

[Texian]

Google Indasa Rhynowet, not rhynower.

[tea lady]

TL, that's a pretty looking platter, if I may call it that way.
Sometimes I use a wet piece of clothes, to get the fibers upright for sanding them away, but I think this is a better way. What kind of wood, and is it big?
Thanks for posting.
Ad :2tsup:I think it is Silver Wattle. it is only 15 cm across. It was stilll very green, so completely wetting it down was OK! I don't know how completely wetting a dry piece would go. :shrug: (I have been told that this wood just cracks if it dries, so I thought green turning would be good for it.) The bowl has now got a pleasing wobble to the rim. :cool:

[Rum Pig]

Interesting idea I must buy a copy of that book:)

I like the look of the timber very nice:2tsup::2tsup:

[tea lady]

Interesting idea I must buy a copy of that book:)

I like the look of the timber very nice:2tsup::2tsup:

There is actually some quite good information in it. :rolleyes::D

[TTIT]

I'm interested to know how this one turns out for you TL - certainly looks good so far :2tsup: . I'm trying to cover a few of the short-lived wattles out here which are similar to your silver wattle for my website and I'm having a hell of a battle to beat the cracking. I haven't tried finishing them green but if this works for you I might have to. Keep us informed of the outcome please :U

[tea lady]

I'm trying to cover a few of the short-lived wattles out here which are similar to your silver wattle for my website and I'm having a hell of a battle to beat the cracking. I haven't tried finishing them green but if this works for you I might have to. Keep us informed of the outcome please :U
Are you doing solid eggs in them? Maybe you need to do hollow forms. :shrug:

[TTIT]

Are you doing solid eggs in them? Maybe you need to do hollow forms. :shrug:It's easy enough to get a solid piece for an egg but it's the bowls and forms for the actual tree page that are giving me a hard time. I just tried soaking one in a detergent solution as suggested by KenW when he stopped in and it sort of helped on some acacia angusta - but didn't :C. Instead of one big crack to the heart like I get in most, this one just has dozens of small cracks round the entire form - so far :B

[artme]

Google Indasa Rhynowet, not rhynower.

Mistake on my part in the post.

Got onto the web site and went through all the malarky to email them in the States. No bloody answer. Same in Brasil.

Don't people want to do even a small amount of business????

[tea lady]

It's easy enough to get a solid piece for an egg but it's the bowls and forms for the actual tree page that are giving me a hard time. I just tried soaking one in a detergent solution as suggested by KenW when he stopped in and it sort of helped on some acacia angusta - but didn't :C. Instead of one big crack to the heart like I get in most, this one just has dozens of small cracks round the entire form - so far :B:doh: These bowls are only about a week old, so might turn into colanders yet.:rolleyes: (Is that a crack? :pi: )

[Paul39]

Around here (North Carolina, USA) auto parts stores carry wet or dry sandpaper for finishing cars prior to painting.

I also use 120 grit sheet rock finishing sanding screen. Found a box at half price. Takes off wood quickly and doesn't clog easily.

With the bowl on the lathe & running at 600 rpm, I dry sand to 150 then put Danish Oil on a rag and wet the bowl all over. Then I put DO on 220 paper and sand with that. It also acts like a filler and will fill little tear outs.

Dry overnight, gently sand with 220 dry, vacuum off and wet sand with 400 & DO, Wet rag with DO and work in until it starts to drag.

Dry overnight, repeat DO & rag. If you get dull places or raised grain,400 & DO locally.

This gives me a soft baby skin feeling surface.

Many coats and then buffing with a hard finish cloth gives a good shine on hard woods. 20 to 30 coats on soft wood still does not shine.

[tea lady]

:cool: Wet and dry sand paper would work too. :2tsup: This bowl is turned green. In his book Neil reckons that onlu shellawax and possible Organoil (Hard Burnishing oil? ) can be use to finish green timber. I haven't tried Organoil yet. (I can't get the lid off that tin either.:C Might have to resort to a nail through it. :doh: ) I love the oil finish on turned things though. :cool:

Sanding seeler on the soft woods may help the DO to shine instead of just soak in. :shrug:

[Paul39]

Tea Lady,

In my post #13 I did not make clear that my method was not to apply to your latest green bowl, but that ordinary sandpaper that I have been using does not lose the grit when wet sanding with DO. I also use paint thinner for wet sanding, wipe, then follow with DO.

I mostly finish dry wood. I rough out wet blanks and let them move around for 6 months or so then finish, or thin a bit and wait another 6 months.

I did make a bowl from a fresh cut eastern cedar root, coated it with DO and put it aside wrapped in newspaper. When I checked on it several months later It had not moved much or cracked.

Wonderful grain and shape on your bowl above.

[tea lady]

Tea Lady,

In my post #13 I did not make clear that my method was not to apply to your latest green bowl, but that ordinary sandpaper that I have been using does not lose the grit when wet sanding with DO. I also use paint thinner for wet sanding, wipe, then follow with DO.
:2tsup:OK! Might give it a go one day. Someone I know REALLY LOVES paint thinners.:rolleyes:

Wonderful grain and shape on your bowl above.:cool:Ta!

[Chipman]

Wet sanding with Danish oil prior to the final finish works really well. I first started using it on furniture and the clocks I make and then tried it on my lathe work. It works much better on hard timbers than soft from my observations.

If I want a good stained finish then I use an oil based stain and wet sand it in. The white sandpaper stands up to it or you can use the black wet and dry. It gives a nice even finish but once again works best on hard woods.

You let it dry between applications and then you can finish off with lacquers or estapol or wax or better still just more DO. I like Rustins's the best.

That said, 9/10 times I just use shellawax


As for green turning, I have been using cypress, so green that the sap flies out as you turn it! I have tried lots of things. Turn thick, soak in methylated spirits for a day, dry in a paper bag for a week then a few trips around in the microwave. No more than about 2 minutes at a time in mine and let it cool in between. It buckled but most did not crack. Then remounted them and completed the turning. It worked with silver birch but red gum just buckled all over the place!!! Excellent piece of oval turning with a wavy edge!!!!?????

One of my students tried copying the microwave treatment but tried to do it in one go... The other teacher said it caught on fire after about 10-15 minutes!!!!!!

Cheers

Chipman

[Little Festo]

:cool: Wet and dry sand paper would work too. :2tsup: This bowl is turned green. In his book Neil reckons that onlu shellawax and possible Organoil (Hard Burnishing oil? ) can be use to finish green timber. I haven't tried Organoil yet. (I can't get the lid off that tin either.:C Might have to resort to a nail through it. :doh: ) I love the oil finish on turned things though. :cool:

Sanding seeler on the soft woods may help the DO to shine instead of just soak in. :shrug:


I've had quite a bit of success using Organoil on very green Bunya and Hoop Pines. The Pieces were turned thin (translucent) and about 99% didn't crack, only in the knots. I got some nice warping too and this seemed to be caused by the knots. I had the knots near the top of the bowl and the ended up with a squarish top but no cracking or splitting in the non knotty/knots wood (hope that makes sense). The oil would slow the drying and maybe it might lessen the impact of water loss on some timbers too.

I have some roughs of some local bloodwood, was like turning beetroot (colour). I had a look at the roughs a few weeks ago, they will be impossible to turn, will have to carve bowls out of them, they are quite speccie, no cracks just massive distortion, very even. Will post some pics in a day or two.

Peter

[tea lady]

I have some roughs of some local bloodwood, was like turning beetroot (colour). I had a look at the roughs a few weeks ago, they will be impossible to turn, will have to carve bowls out of them, they are quite speccie, no cracks just massive distortion, very even. Will post some pics in a day or two.

PeterOh! That sounds fun. :cool: Look forward to the finished pieces, or even of the unfinished pieces.:D

The ones I roughed and put in the freezer did not warp at all. Perfectly round Spookily so. they were end grain though, and roundish bowl shape rather than a wide flat bowl. :shrug: Pics tomorrow if you want.:cool:

[Calm]

I have often sanded with DO using the normal Hermes paper - it helps stop the clogging when you get that ###### bit of wood.

Even after sanding with DO i still finish with EEE and Glow if that is what i intended to use.

Nice stuff TL - i love the grain/colours on Wattle/Blackwood very rarely is it plain.

Cheers

[Ozkaban]

Nice Bowls, tea lady! Interesting technique as well.

I must say, you've nicely improved the name of the wax stick in the second photo - Hithot is much better :D

Cheers,
Dave

[rsser]

I use nitrocellulose sanding sealer and wax for finishing stuff turned green in one go.

It has to be cut back with steel wool so it doesn't work very well with timber with checks or voids.

Drying can produce waves or ripples at the rim and sometimes they look good and sometimes they look crap.

As for how far up in the grit range you go, the denser the grain the less you need to go up in my experience. You see it soon enough; when the abrasive starts to polish.

Added: re the wax. I think Neil has said that the market wants softer wax. By implication, the Shithot wax stick should work on anything if you follow the instructions carefully. I use it for open-grained timbers like Quercus, Elm and Silky Oak. As a sole finish it works remarkably well. With finer grained timbers it isn't necessary if there's some fill underneath so ubeaut Trad Wax gets my vote only because it's quick.

[tea lady]

I have often sanded with DO using the normal Hermes paper - it helps stop the clogging when you get that ###### bit of wood. Maybe the oil doesn't desolve the glue likek water does, even if its not water proof. :shrug:



Nice stuff TL - i love the grain/colours on Wattle/Blackwood very rarely is it plain.

Cheers:cool: Not blackwood. Silver Wattle. waid it would crack all over the shop so I thought it might be better greenturned.:cool:

[Calm]

:cool: Not blackwood. Silver Wattle. waid it would crack all over the shop so I thought it might be better greenturned.:cool:

Sorry TL i read/understood yours was Silver Wattle my comment was a general reference to those timbers.

Nice work - going to GJ's on the 13th.?
Cheers

[tea lady]

Sorry TL i read/understood yours was Silver Wattle my comment was a general reference to those timbers.Oh, OK!:)

Nice work - going to GJ's on the 13th.?
CheersI think so!:cool: