Bandsaw blades breaking

[whitewood]

I have searched the forum and was directed to a usefull web site on the subject. I propose to check my machime against that list of possible reasons but don't feel that I have a problem in the areas suggested. I have decided to ask members of the forum and see if anyone has ideas or solutions.

It is a second hand Hafco BS16A model MJ 344C.
Width 350 and height 200 mm.
The blade is 2952 mm and this one was a 3/4" 3TPI carbon steel purchased June 09 but not many hours of work.
It was still cutting well - Ripping 35 - 45 mm paulownia today.
The break is not on the join.
It is a straight break but there are 3 other small cracks developing on the teeth side of the blade at intervals of approx 30 - 45 cm.
I believe the tension was OK certainally not as high as it can go.
The wear mark on the inside of the blade is of a regular width suggesting that the blade is not wandering back and forth.
I can see the blade jumping back and foward for a few minutes of sawing before it finally lets go.
I have cleaned all the saw dust of the wheels before refitting this blade yesterday afternoon.

Any thoughts or experience from other users would be appreciated.

John

[whitewood]

Since my last post I have given my saw a good going over. I have found enough little items wrong / not working that I am prepared to try another blade. The main failure was the lower rear blade guide. The guide/bearing had jamed and the blade had cut a grove into the face of the metal. As a tempory measure, to finish an urgent / overdue order, I have lubricated the bearing and turned it about on the shaft. I'll buy and fit a new one on Monday.

By experience I have found horizontal band saws are high maintenance or it is high expense. It is beginning to seem that small vertical band saw are the same. Only difference is that the expense is a lot less on the smaller machine when things go wrong.

I would still be interested to hear from any one with a similar saw and how often do they 'service' the moving parts.

John

John

[Fencepost2]

I have a 14 inch Leda brand, made in Taiwan, so I imagine just a bit smaller than yours. I check fairly often that my side and thrust roller bearings, top and bottom, are free to spin. Sounds like your lower thrust bearing was jammed, and maybe a bit forward so that when you were cutting there was a lot of pressure backwards on it causing the groove to be worn into it. This might also explain why the front of the blade has cracked if it were being forced into a sharpish curve by a too far advanced bottom thrust bearing. Replacement ball bearings are not all that expensive, I bought two sets and have one set spare for when they get clogged. Try to get bearings that are designed to keep sawdust out of their inner workings. Good luck.

[Big Shed]

I bought two sets and have one set spare for when they get clogged. Try to get bearings that are designed to keep sawdust out of their inner workings. Good luck.

The ones I use on my bandsaw have a code ending in 2S, they have a rubber seal on each side. Cost a couple of dollars more, but well worth it.

See also here

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/blade-guide-bearings-bas-350-a-99572/

and there are more posts on the 608-2RS rubber sealed bearings

[whitewood]

Thanks bigshed.

Seems like great advice. I followed the links and learnt a lot. I agree it's hard to understand why manfactures want to save $4 or $5 in machines that sell for around $1000 when it would make them so much more reliable. I'll replace all the guides in my saw on Monday if I can buy 2RS type bearings locally.

John