Making Zero Clearance Throat Inserts

[PaulS]

Just a few questions about these.
I want to replace the supplied throat insert with a zero clearance one.

1. Do they need to be screwed in place? (The one supplied with the table is not screwed in))

2. I assume i can use MDF, but have heard that lamipanel is good too. What is lamipanel and where do you get it (it sounds expensive)? any other options?

3. to get the insert flush the supplied one has some screws, is this best way to do it, or is it best to just make the insert the right thickness to begin with?

Any other things I should watch out for???

Thanks
Paul

[bitingmidge]

Paul,

From my experience:-
1) they don't need to be screwed in place, but it is handy to have some means of holding them while you are bringing the blade up through them for the first time. I clamp a piece of pine stud accross width of the table and take things CAREFULLY.

2) I use MDF, I can't see the point in using lamipanel, acrylic, or plastic chopping boards. I have never had occasion to warrant finishing the MDF even, and never had a problem with a "catch" on the insert.

3) On my current table (Jet) the mounts are perfectly level and I have not needed any adjustment, I just use 10 (or 12?)mm MDF and it is exactly the right size. On my previous cheapie, I started by using small wood screws to level, then got a brainwave one day: (before I knew about alfoil beanies!) .

Mix a dollop of Builders Bog, Plastibond, CarBody Filler or similar, lay some glad wrap right over the hole in the saw, one dollop of goo in each corner where the screws go, then gently press the MDF to level. You never need to worry about adjusting the insert for the rest of it's life. Let the bog go off, pop out the insert with its four level corners, and do the next one. Best to use fresh glad wrap each time, if you don't want a permanent insert though!

4) the most dangerous part is lifting the blade, although I have never had a problem. Use the original metal one as a router template. Cut a length of MDF to the EXACT width you need on the Saw to minimise router work.

If your saw doesn't retract the blade far enough to clear the insert, use a smaller blade, either a cheap 7 1/4 or a dado blade to get started.

That's all I know on the subject I'm afraid!

Cheers,

P :rolleyes:

[zymurgy]

I have a Jet as well and 12mm (1/2") is the correct thickness.

I suggest you make one to keep as a template. That way it can be attached to the next with double sided tape (double stick as the Yanks say) as a router template - very quick to make more.

I slide my fence over the insert when cutting slot - it can't go anywhere then.

[PaulS]

Thanks for the tips,

But what stops them flying out??? is it that they are a really tight fit?

[zymurgy]

I guess there is no force on them after the blade has done a few thousand revolutions - so they 'sit' there like all good inserts should :D

[hcbph]

Couple of suggestions here. Straightedge along the blade and put a mark ahead and behind the blade of the saw tabletop. Substitute a smaller blade from a circular saw for your tablesaw blade (eg. 7 1/4" vs. 10" blade), lowered all the way. Insert your zero clearance insert and move the rip fence to about 1/4" away from where the blade marks are. Start the saw and slowly raise the blade, going all the way. Power it off, lower the blade and put your normal blade on. Put the insert back in, align the fence again, and raise this one to cut the slot all the way.
The reason for the smaller blade is it will clear everything and start your cut. Going with the normal blade then enlarges the cut to the maximum slot.
Hope this helps someone.

[BigPop]

Just read this post and thought I would add my 0.02c too.

Another easy way to cut the hole is wind the screws out of the original plate so it sits a little deeper in the hole that way you can put the new throat plate on top and then clamp it there. Then just a matter of raising the saw blade so it makes a cut big enough that you can then take the original plate out and the new one will sit in the hole with the blade in the cut you have just made - re-clamp the insert and raise the blade fully to make a full sized cut in it.

Just a quick question for Midge and Zymurgy - Is the 12mm mdf the right thickness?? I have a JET saw too yet the 12mm mdf is too thin and needs packing up - my saw is a left tilt JTAS10XL but I doubt that would make a difference.

[bitingmidge]

Just a quick question for Midge and Zymurgy - Is the 12mm mdf the right thickness?? I have a JET saw too yet the 12mm mdf is too thin and needs packing up - my saw is a left tilt JTAS10XL but I doubt that would make a difference.

Mine is EXACTLY twelve mm... the fit is amazingly perfect!

As mentioned above, the previous Chinese saw was a few mm different and I used to pack it up with a few dollops of Builder's Bog, which stayed stuck to each insert... pretty easy really and much better than fiddling with screws.

Cheers,

P

[BigPop]

Thanks for that Midge,

Mine is defintitely not 12mm I just measured it and from the top to the bottom of the lugs is 15mm - maybe is a difference in models or something.