Square Oak Bowl

[Gil Jones]

Hey Y'all,
I am trying to get the hang of turning these square bowls, so tell me what you think. This one is of an OLD Oak piece of timber I found in my stash.
It is 177.8mm square (7" square) by 4.775mm thick (3/16" thick). Sanded to 600-grit, buff/polished with White Diamond, buff/waxed with carnauba.
Thanks for looking and giving your opinion.
Gil

[Ozkaban]

I quite like that one. Nicely finished :2tsup:

Cheers,
Dave

[Rum Pig]

I like it I think you have done a fantastic job well done:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[wheelinround]

Gil I need a closer look :; nice piece

I am still yet to have a go with square thin edges

[Ad de Crom]

Gil, interesting, I think you did a very nice job with this piece of oak, you found in your pile of wood. Saw this week on youtube a simular turning from Bobham which took my interest. I like it.
Ad

[artme]

Well done Gil!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Now the truth: turned the square bit of timber, or turned the circle then cut square?

[tea lady]

Well done Gil!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Now the truth: turned the square bit of timber, or turned the circle then cut square?:whathesaid: And how did you hold it to finish the base? :think:

[hughie]

Hmm, looks to be of an even thickness, no sanding or other such marks to detract.

I think you have done very well my friend. :2tsup:

[joe greiner]

Nice. Very nice.:2tsup:

Maybe a little thicker stock next time, to avoid the tailstock dimple. Or use a cushion for pressure. Or glue a colored glass bead in the dimple. Or drill a larger divot.

Cheers,
Joe

[Ed Reiss]

Gil, I think you've mastered the square turning thing :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[oldiephred]

Very nice. Do you still have all your fingers?:2tsup:

[Gil Jones]

Thank you all for your kind remarks.
I reckon you have every right to wonder how it was turned, so here are a few pics.
The 7" x 7" x 1" blank IS the start of the bowl in question (next to it is the previous bowl from another 7" x 7" blank). The Forstner bit hole is 1 1/4" x 1/8" deep for pin jaws in expansion mode. After mounting on the lathe, I bored another on the opposite face.
Finishing the foot was done on my donut chuck.
Joe, the center depression is from the Forstner bit and is incorporated into a bead. The way I cut beads, there would be an identical depression in the center anyway, so I am OK with it. Maybe I'll try another method without a depression, or not.
Gil

edit:
Well, I removed the two pics of the future 10" square bowl, mainly because it just flew apart into two large and four smaller pieces of wood shrapnel.:( This happened at the 3mm thickness and 1500rpm. It was interesting, and the good old Trend AirShield saved the day, and my face.:D That is the last chunk of the old Oak, so I'm off to something new.
Cheers,
Gil

[Rum Pig]

very nice and thank you for how to description I might have a go one day:2tsup:

[Ozkaban]

I agree. It seems an excellent way to use a smaller blank and get the maximum size from it!

Cheers,
Dave

[hughie]

I agree. It seems an excellent way to use a smaller blank and get the maximum size from it!


Yep and I just unearthed a few thickish planks that will do nicely for square trays/bowls, had forgotten all about them.:2tsup:

[Gil Jones]

If anyone would like a plan or two on making your own Donut Chuck, I am just an email away.

[Texian]

Gil, I like the slit hose "cushion" on your doughnut. Good idea. Very attractive square thingy too. Gotta love oak.

[Gil Jones]

Hey Richard,
The slit hose on the donut chuck outer ring is a fairly thin walled 3/8" ID marine fuel hose made of gray neoprene on the outside. Black fuel hose leaves marks in the wood, this does not. Also, the thicker walled hose is not flexible enough for this application.
Gil

[joe greiner]

I guess I had an optical delusion from the first set of pictures.:-

The center point of Forstner bits is convenient for drilling concentric smaller holes, because the dimple from the larger first bit centers the point of the second smaller bit. In fact, that's one of the best ways to form a precise step in a hole. But it isn't necessary for single holes if the workpiece is properly clamped and the drill runs true.

Forstner's first patent (#155,148 of 22 Sept 1874, entitled "Improvement in Augers"), available from Google patents or USPTO, states "By its employment the gimlet point may be dispensed with,..." Later developments by others added or restored the center point.

I wouldn't remove the center point from any bit in a complete set, to preserve the convenience cited above, but for a dedicated size of an extra bit, grinding the point off could be useful.

The tubing is a great addition to the donut chuck.:2tsup:

Cheers,
Joe

[artme]

SOme good info there Gil and thankz for the abbreviated WIP>

[Texian]

Thanks Gil.

[rsser]

Well I'm glad to hear you avoided injury Gil.

FWIW if you do tackle another one consider a slightly off-square plan, or parallelogram. I think they hold the eye longer.

[Gil Jones]

Thanks, Ern.
Good thought, I'll try it out.
Wonder how a pentagram would look (other than 5-sided).
Gil


edit: Thanks, Nick.

[Sawdust Maker]

Nice work - lovely piece to be pleased with :2tsup:

and a great discussion, thanks all