Sharpening drill bits

[ToothFairy]

Went to Bunnies with the proceeds of Mr Anon's generosity, and bought a B&D Workmate:), which I thought had disappeared from the market. While there, I saw the MultiSharp drill bit sharpener (which is not self-powered), and was rather tempted. I asked a young lad in a Bunnies uniform (no resemblance to a young lady in a Bunny outfit :no:) how it compared to a Drill Doctor. "What's that?", sez he.

Not encouraging :C.

Anyway, he went on to say that he had an "electronic sharpener" that was self-powered and seemed to be pretty good. When he led me to the appropriate shelf, I was a bit disappointed to see the Ozito brand, but he told me they were popular and the return rate "wasn't bad". I said "I'll bring it back if it doesn't work" - which I duly did. It made no more than a half-way decent job of a 5/16" bit, and wouldn't even grip a 1/8" bit, despite having a claimed range down to 7/64":((.

Meanwhile, I checked out the reputation of the MultiSharp, and decided it was worth a go. A very different story. At less than quarter of the price of the cheapest Drill Doctor, it did a first-rate job on the same two bits as the Ozito didn't, and it also claims to handle other types of bit besides plain HSS. Given how well it does HSS, I see no reason to doubt the claim. Will report back in due course.

- Michael

[wheelinround]

Nicely done :2tsup: I think your the first person here to comment on what you have done with your winnings good luck with the new tools:2tsup:

[petersemple]

I bought a Multisharp a while ago. Within a few days it had paid for itself in re-sharpened bits. It does a great job. It will also do larger bits than the Ozito one from memory. Only thing is that you have to provide a drill for the power source, which shouldn't be too hard for most people.

Peter

[ToothFairy]

I've just seen a "Skillmeister" drill bit sharpener advertised on DealsDirect. It looks identical to the Ozito, at a slightly lower price. In the light of a recent discussion at http://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/3-1-joiner-thicknesser-table-saw-skillmeister-110996/ I wonder whether we are about to see a few of them on eBay!

- Michael

[kman-oz]

Only thing is that you have to provide a drill for the power source, which shouldn't be too hard for most people.

Not having a drill to power your drill bit sharpener seems a little redundant. :p

I've been sharpening my larger bits by hand at the grinder for some time, but for the small ones, less that ~6mm it's almost impossible for my eyes. I must make the effort to get one of these. If it really works that well I can revive about $200 woth of drill bits with it.

[elanjacobs]

Personally I'm a fan of sharpening with a grinder. The brad-point drills are the obvious but I also find I can change the tip angle on standard twist bits (for metal to wood and back) as well as the cutting angle for changing how agressive the bit will be.

That being said I had an excellent teacher (he's been in the furniture industry for probably over 60 years :oo:) and it does take a steady hand and a keen eye.

[tea lady]

Sharpening drill on a grinder is one of the few things I still do from my Telecom Technician apprenticeship.:cool: Leaned how to sharpen planes too.:cool: But USING a plene was one of th4 few things I actually failed at.:C Can do i now though. Just loose the micrometer.:D

[kman-oz]

I picked up a MultiSharp and sharpened half a dozen HSS bits over the weekend. It doesn't produce the best finish on the bit, but the results can't be argued with! And it's already paid for itself. :)

[Frank&Earnest]

Not having a drill to power your drill bit sharpener seems a little redundant. :p

I've been sharpening my larger bits by hand at the grinder for some time, but for the small ones, less that ~6mm it's almost impossible for my eyes. I must make the effort to get one of these. If it really works that well I can revive about $200 woth of drill bits with it.

Pleased to know that somebody else still does it by hand,congratulations, and commiserations for your eyesight. I am in the same boat, but I have a son your age. :D Solution: buy a magnifying viser for $5 and happily sharpen 3mm bits. Cheaper and more satisfying.

[rsser]

Anne-Maria, that's a great skill to have learned (and remembered!).

[Avery]

OK. I'll hijack this thread.

Now it is time for one of you " I sharpen my own drill bits" people to let loose with the secrets.

C'mon now, you know you want to.

[rsser]

Well I do my own bits but on the side of the bench grinder using one of those el cheapo jigs.

Works OK except for small bits.

[munruben]

Where can you buy the Multisharp sharpener and how much does it cost.?

[ToothFairy]

I bought mine at Bunnies in Blacktown (western Sydney) for $79.86.

- Michael

[munruben]

I bought mine at Bunnies in Blacktown (western Sydney) for $79.86.

- MichaelThanks for that TF. I lived at Quakers Hill for 15 years so know exactly where you bought it. :) Thanks mate.:2tsup:

[elanjacobs]

OK. I'll hijack this thread.

Now it is time for one of you " I sharpen my own drill bits" people to let loose with the secrets.

C'mon now, you know you want to.

It's not easy to explain without being shown but I'll try.

For twist bits I use the side of the grinding wheel (I find the right hand wheel easier as I'm right handed) a thin wheel (maybe 1/4") is easier as the tool rest can project quite far to the side. Hold the bit so that it sits on the tool rest and the cutting edge contacts first and adjust to the required point angle - this is done by changing the angle of the bit relative to the wheel. Then roll it up and out (moving against the grinder rotation and rolling the bit clockwise) to get a single, smooth grind behind the cutting edge. The aggressiveness of the cut can be changed by changing the angle of the bit relative to the tool rest - closer to horizontal is less aggressive, closer to vertical will be more aggressive). It WILL require a lot of bits to get the technique and angles right as most of the grind is almost freehand. Check that the finished bit has the same angle on both sides and that it comes to a nice point in the centre

Brad points are a bit easier. First, dress a thin wheel to look like this \| (flat on the outside and angled about 30 degrees to the inside) this is what will determine the shape of the cutting edge.Set the tool rest so the bit sits flat on it and contacts the wheel at 5-10 degrees. Grind with the centre point to the flat side of the wheel and roll the bit on the rest slightly clockwise to give a relief angle to the bit and to cover its whole width (bits larger than about 10mm may need to be moved on the rest to fully cover the width). Keep sharpening until it looks like a 'W' with the centre point about 2-3mm longer than the side points to keep the bit cutting where you put it. Also make sure that the side points are the same length and that the centre point is truly in the middle. The cutting edge MUST look like a 'W' and NOT like an upside-down 'T', the points are there to score the fibres and prevent tearing - a well ground bit should produce a hole with zero, or very close to, tearout. As with twist bits, it will take practice to get good results but there is no other way to sharpen brad-point bits.

Wow, that was long:oo:

Hope it helps.
Good luck and happy sharpening:2tsup:

[hughie]

Now it is time for one of you " I sharpen my own drill bits" people to let loose with the secrets.
I fear its something best shown rather than talked over. Its really a hands on learning situation. I sharpen by hand on the grinder and have done so for quite while.

I guess the most common bad habit is to grind the relief angle on your drill bit flat.It will still drill ok,but it will give very little support to the cutting edge and so will not cut well for long. Roll the drill as you grind to give the relief an arc, the cutting edge will last mu\ch longer.

hijack over and my apologies

[Frank&Earnest]

While I'm back on this side of the forum after quite a while.... it is interesting that some people use the side of the wheel and the tool rest, a different technique from what is needed for other tools. I just present the cutting edge to the wheel and roll down, which produces the arc Hughie mentions. The tool rest at most is useful to lean the left hand fingers against it. No different from any other cutting tool, just need a steady hand not to change the profile of the bevel.