Lathe frustration of a different kind.

[cultana]

I have a nice new MC1100. Yes all very nice BUT!!!

When I put it all together I asked one of the local turners about protecting the bed from rusting. I have a high allergy to rust on tools. It sends me off in to all sorts of fits and gnashing of teeth not to mention uttered delicate words.

I lost to rust a lot of tools at my stable due to the dust as it has a high salt level and throw in a dash of moisture and it is on the way to useless. Yep a nice expensive set of shoeing gear went. It was a matter of daily cleaning everything. Hence the allergy problem.

I digress a bit. Well I was told that candle wax would help the lathe bed from rusting and it would help overall. So I rubbed a candle along the lathe bed. All nice.:?

Ok problem, I have now removed any wax from the bed and also under the tail stock, tool rest and also drive head. I used mineral turpentine to this and also rubbed the bed down with sand paper. Why, easy either the drive head or tail stock kept slipping every time I tightened up the tail stock. If I blocked the tailstock the drive head did the slide.

Well after all the cleaning and still ongoing, I still have this slipping problem. It is definitely reduced but still annoying.
At present if I give the tail stock, (unlocked state), a little flick I can get it to slide easily almost full length of the bed. Talk of little friction.:oo:

Ok so what is the solution, more of the same or something different?:?


On a lighter side I have not got the full turning bug yet. :wink:
The roughing gouge and Skew chisel are all Ok but that skinny spindle gouge, is giving me a real headache. Seems there is more mystery wrapped in that than the skew chisel. Anyway a different problem.

[wheelinround]

Clean it with Metho Turps is oily also clean the tailstock

[rsser]

Maybe scrub it off all mating surfaces with Scotchbrite.

Then just light machine oil regularly applied, or if you're keen, Top Saver is worth a run.

I thought it an exxy wank but am eating my words.

[hughie]

You may have to give the tailstock locking nut a half turn or so to give you a bit more bite when tightening as well.
If rust is a major prob try WD40, a light wipe each time you finish, but you will need to wipe it off before you start as the dust will cause a build up.

[issatree]

Hi Cultana,
When I first bought my Tough Lathe, I was told to put some Engine Oil & Kerosene in a small screw top lidded bottle, using a 3 to 1 ratio, 3 of Kero. I put a small hole in the top, & would just shake the bottle, onto the bed after a days use & rub it in with my hand.
I did this for years.
I now use "Silbein Gliet " Silver Glide approx $30 a tin. Jim Carroll has this stuff.
It doesn't stop the rust, but helps keep it away for awhile & makes everything nice & slippery.
The drive shaft slip, could be a Grub Screw or 2 not tightened up enough.
I am not a lover of those Lathes, as that excellent Tough Lathe I had for sale would have left your buy in it's wake.
Regards,
issatree.
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[wheelinround]

Putting a cover over it over night will help also moisture in the shed with all that wood and humidity. Many will jump on me here but I use plastic cover just over the whole lot each time I use material it starts to show signs of surface rust.

[orraloon]

I would wash off the wax with a scotchbrite pan scourer and spirit(metho). Then a wipe with 3 in 1 or singer sewing machine oil then wipe off the excess. Any oil with rust inhibiter Some use wax paste polish or purpose made compounds. All are buffed off to leave just a seal over the metal.
The problem with the tailstock slipping ts the locking nut below needs tightening a smidgen.
Regards
John

[cultana]

I suspect the metho approach and the scouring pad sound the best so far.

As for the locking nuts in the drive head and tail stock they are as tightened up enough to lock these. Anymore tightening and they won't work, the underneath plate catches on the bottom side of the bed.

Unfortunately I have had a few negatives from this lathe, most associated with the head, tail and tool rest.

issatree: "that excellent Tough Lathe I had for sale would have left your buy in it's wake", true but the transport cost would have killed me, (guess who would have done the killing).

wheelinround: I cover all static units. So that is the least of my problems. Cuts down the wood dust and normal airborne dirt dust.

[orraloon]

It's hard to say without seeing it in the flesh but the washers and or locking plates under the bed may be flexing if they are too light for the application. You should be able to see by tightening the tailstock near the end of the bed and watch what happens. Another thing may be paint on the underside of the bed. If this is not the case and you cant suss it out then get back to the supplier. A new lathe should be fit to turn wood, made fit, or be replaced.
Regards
John

[Manuka Jock]

Replacing the standard engineering nuts holding the headstock , banjo and tailstock with nylock nuts will help the slippage , after the surfaces have been scrubbed .
If there are no washers there , invest in some of those too

[robyn2839]

i have often thought that maybe one of those electronic rust thingys they put on cars would stop the problem,sounds possible and are quite cheap nowdays,food for thought..bob

[cultana]

Thanks guys..

Seems the meths and a scouring pad has resolved the problem. Ther was still some wax on the bed. I also cleaned the plates and underside of head, tailstock etc..

Also had a free 'float' about the shed thanks to the fumes from the meths:D.
Hot day and the fans did not do much for ventilation.

Bob, interesting thought re the car electronic rust things. I am not sure you would want it on while working on the lathe. Also I thought they were 12 Volt things. Could always borrow her car battery.:rolleyes:

[steck]

Like Issatree, I also use Silver Glide which needs to be applied every few months.
I was told that leaving a pile of wood shavings on the floor acts as a dessicant, soaking up moisture in the shed and thus preventing rust. I don't know if this is true or not?? Has anyone else heard this?

[rsser]

A breathable cover may help; an impermeable one runs the risk of condensation forming u/neath.

As for shavings: maybe, temp'y. Dry wood cut fast heats up and dries out a bit more, but humidity in the air means it'll soon absorb such moisture as it can and no more (= EMC).

[Ozkaban]

Bob, interesting thought re the car electronic rust things. I am not sure you would want it on while working on the lathe. Also I thought they were 12 Volt things. Could always borrow her car battery.:rolleyes:
Dunno how it would go, but 12V is pretty easy to come by depending on the wattage required - Those halogen lights come with pretty compact little transformers...


I was told that leaving a pile of wood shavings on the floor acts as a dessicant, soaking up moisture in the shed and thus preventing rust. I don't know if this is true or not?? Has anyone else heard this?

I've been doing an in depth study on this for ages. Ankle depth, actually :D No idea about the rust but they certainly do soak up the moisture on the floor...

Cheers,
Dave

[Manuka Jock]

I've been doing an in depth study on this for ages. Ankle depth, actually :D No idea about the rust but they certainly do soak up the moisture on the floor...



They also soak up the aches in the feet :U

[rsser]

Must be yr woods.

Ours lead to termite infestation.

Not pretty when we go for the swan dive at the pool :D

[petersemple]

Ern,

If you are getting termites then you are standing in one place too long. I recommend placing your grinder far enough from your lathe that you have to walk over to it. You only have to move away from the lathe every few days to break the trails and avoid contracting termites.

Peter

[rsser]

Hmm, that cld be it.

Tho with the Tormek and a big skew reshaping job, I suspect they'd amble over & take up residence again.

[colhu]

I've been doing an in depth study on this for ages. Ankle depth, actually :D No idea about the rust but they certainly do soak up the moisture on the floor...

And if you turn some Camphor Laurel from time to time the workshop smells nicer as well. Doesn't everyone have a pile of shavings under their lathe?

Colin

[cultana]

I wish you lot would stop talking about moisture. :( The only moisture my floor might see is the condensation off a can or two. Beyond that this place is dry. Time for some real rain.

As for that pile of shaving under the lathe or elsewhere, NO it is all stacked in a nice pile.
Just in front of the pile is a small office run by some little grubby shaving pile renting termites renting out the pile to various nests. All civil this lot.
Tenants change every few weeks, they get killed off, then new tenets move in.

Nothing like that uncivilised bunch of white ants down in Melbourne.:D

[tea lady]

I wish you lot would stop talking about moisture. :( The only moisture my floor might see is the condensation off a can or two. Beyond that this place is dry. Time for some real rain.

As for that pile of shaving under the lathe or elsewhere, NO it is all stacked in a nice pile.
Just in front of the pile is a small office run by some little grubby shaving pile renting termites renting out the pile to various nests. All civil this lot.
Tenants change every few weeks, they get killed off, then new tenets move in.

Nothing like that uncivilised bunch of white ants down in Melbourne.:DSounds like you've got termite mafioso down there.:rolleyes:

[coffenup]

I used steel wool to get rid of my suface rust on all my bare cast iron lathe bed & band saw & scroll saw surfaces. I then put carabin wax on them then buffed it off. I once a year wire wool again & recoat with the wax & I have not had rust back on them yet.
Regards Michael

[cultana]

Sounds like you've got termite mafioso down there.:rolleyes:

Yes termites go in the pile front door and the little sugar ants go in the back door. End of termites.

Actually TL it has been a bad year with ants collectively. So it is a real pain.
Can't afford to have too much stuff lying about. Also the black ants are just as bad. I ended up pouring ant killer down their holes to clean them out. Most holes took roughly 1 liter of poison. That had to be repeated for 3 consecutive days to do it properly. 40 holes takes a lot of poison.

[hughie]

moisture my floor might see is the condensation off a can or two. Beyond that this place is dry. Time for some real rain.

AYou have to forgive Jock as he lives in the Aoteo Roa where the highest rainfall is around 600 inches per year. :U

[Manuka Jock]

You have to forgive Jock as he lives in the Aoteo Roa where the highest rainfall is around 600 inches per year. :U

HUH ? Be buggared . I don't live in Aorearoa , thats the wee island to the north .

I live on the Mainland , Te Wahi Pounamu .

bloody cheeky convict
:upset:

[hughie]

I live on the Mainland , Te Wahi Pounamu Just couldn't help myself. Originally I'm from around Waitoki and then Waihi, Aotearoa of course..the mainland.

kaiki

[Manuka Jock]

Just couldn't help myself. Originally I'm from around Waitoki and then Waihi, Aorearoa of course..the mainland.

kaiki



Te Wahi Poumanu = te waka a Maui .
Aotearoa = te ika a Maui :D

Tuakana Hughie,
Since when did anyone sit on the fish and haul up the boat ?
na kau na ehoa :2tsup:,
Jock

[Tornatus]

Jeez, talk about Kiwi hijackers .....

Getting back to the original theme, I just wanted to note that, when I had an MC900, I found that regular wipedowns with LANOGUARD (made from lanoline - should be plenty of that around in NyuZilund) kept rust away from the ways of my lathe. Don't bother with WD40 - it quickly evaporates and leaves little if any protectant behind. INOX is another quality antirust/lubricant I use and recommend.

As for the banjo and tailstock locking problem - get hold of some NYLOK nuts in the appropriate size and replace the original locknuts. Once these have been adjusted to the correct tension, your slippage problems should disappear.

Despite the disparaging remarks by some, the MC900/1100 lathes are excellent beginners' lathes - the only reason I sold my MC900 (to another beginner) was that I was made an offer I couldn't refuse on a Vicmarc VL175 ... :U

[Sawdust Maker]

Yep I like the inox lanox

available from your local auto store

[cultana]

and replace the original locknuts
:roflmao:
What lock nuts???:rotfl:
This one just has plain basic nuts.

I got the MC1100 as I got a discount off the total package and a certain person who who shall not be named flipped when I pointed top a nice Vicmarc that suited my long term intent. There were noises about cost etc..
Though to be honest I still have problems with the idea that round wood is made rectangular and then via various means and combinations ends up being made round again..:?

What then is the difference between LANOGUARD and straight lanolin?

[Ozkaban]

I got the MC1100 as I got a discount off the total package and a certain person who who shall not be named flipped when I pointed top a nice Vicmarc that suited my long term intent. There were noises about cost etc..

Tell me about it... Selling the MC110 for a second hand vicmarc doesn't change that much!



Though to be honest I still have problems with the idea that round wood is made rectangular and then via various means and combinations ends up being made round again..:?

I've always thought that what we really need for milling wood are giant hole saws that can cut a post out of a log. Surely there would be less wastage this way???

Cheers,
Dave

[Tornatus]

What then is the difference between LANOGUARD and straight lanolin?

It's just that Lanoguard and Lanox are formulations containing lanolin as the main preservative ingredient - straight lanolin would be too thick and sticky. More info about these products can be found at Lanoguard Australia (http://lanoguardaustralia.com.au/index.php?p=home) and INOX LANOX MX4 lubricant (http://www.inoxed.com/MX4.htm)

I use INOX spray as a general purpose penetrating oil / lubricant in preference to WD40, as it is far superior in leaving a protective coating.

BTW, I offer these recommendations based purely on experience - no commercial affiliations, etc.

[TTIT]

.........I've always thought that what we really need for milling wood are giant hole saws that can cut a post out of a log. Surely there would be less wastage this way???........We can but dream of such marvels :no:


..............I use INOX spray as a general purpose penetrating oil / lubricant in preference to WD40, as it is far superior in leaving a protective coating .............Great minds and all that ...... :2tsup:

[cultana]

Thanks. There are actually people in town that actually stock the stuff.. Shock..