Lathe arbor?

[rsser]

Does anyone know where I can get one of these in Aus.?

Google has failed, even with a u in there. :no:

Google doesn't get into databases AFAIK so I've scanned carbatec, mcjing & H&F as well.

[issatree]

Hi Ern,
May have a suggestion, but may I ask what you wish to do with this item.
Regards,
issatree.
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[rsser]

Working on alternatives to the exxy Tormek system.

This is to trial honing options. In partic with MDF discs. Wld also be handy to have a wire brush option.

A slow speed bench grinder might also work but I'm short of space, & it wld cost a lot more.

Have found one in the US but postage will be exxy.

[Durdge39]

G'day, if you have a hard time sourcing one, I'd be more than happy to whip one up on the metal lathe for you. All I'd need is dimensions, really. Cost would be minimal for something like that. If you're interested, shoot me a pm. Cheers!

[artme]

Good onya Dordge. Have a greenie!!!:2tsup:

[joe greiner]

Is this for a dedicated second lathe? If not, an outboard substitute hand wheel might be more suitable.

Cheers,
Joe

[issatree]

Hi again Ern,
If you have an old No.2 M/T Drill Bit, you could use some real heat on it to turn it into Mild Steel, cut the drill bit off, machine a hole, then thread it. Should be Close.
I use similar, but I use a Jacobs chuck with No.2 M/T to hold my pieces. 4in. Wire Wheel, 3in. Sanding Gear,
4in. Buffing Wheel, & anything else I can think of. VS is handy.
Regards,
issatree.
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[rsser]

Thanks for the ideas folks.

Durdge, PM sent.

[NeilS]

Not sure if these short threaded #2MTs, which I have used for other purposes, might provide a solution. Would require further adaptation.
<table class="smalltable" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="450"><tbody><tr class="title"><td width="20%">Model No.</td> <td width="20%">Part No.</td> <td width="20%">Description</td> <td width="20%">Thread Length</td> </tr> <tr class="coloured"> <td>A0161</td> <td>7024113</td> <td>1MT-3/8x24</td> <td>11</td> </tr> <tr class="coloured"> <td>A0164</td> <td>7024114</td> <td>1MT-1/2x20</td> <td>25</td> </tr> <tr class="coloured"> <td>A0261</td> <td>7345</td> <td>2MT-3/8x24</td> <td>14</td> </tr> <tr> <td>A0264</td> <td>7346</td> <td>2MT-1/2x20</td> <td>14</td> </tr> <tr> <td>A0268</td> <td>7347</td> <td>2MT-5/8x12MT-5/8x16</td> <td>17</td> </tr> <tr> <td>A0275</td> <td>7024115</td> <td>2MT-3/4x16</td> <td>17</td></tr></tbody></table>at Arbors Sleeves and Sockets - Precision Specialty Tooling (http://www.pretooling.com.au/pages/products/jacobs/arbors-sleeves-and-sockets.php)


EAD180<!----> - Adaptor - #2 m/t to 3/8" 24tpi - threaded adaptor
<!---->EAD182<!-- (http://www.woodworkforums.com/?cat=33&stock=1212)--> - Adaptor - #2 m/t to 1/2" 20tpi - threaded adaptor
at Tampico - Tools, Machinery & Equipment (http://www.tampico.com.au/stock.php?cat=33)



CA2MT3/8TA 2MT 3/8-24
CA2MT1/2TA 2MT 1/2-20
at http://www.aisnational.com.au/productdirectorypdf/AIS_Directory_531.pdf


Just a thought. Some of my smaller faceplates have threaded centres for centre screws e.g. the <st1><st1>Screw</st1> <st1>Point </st1><st1>Chuck here (http://www.woodfast.com.au/index.php?p=1_8)</st1></st1>, thread is about 1/2". One of those could be readily adapted.

.....

[rsser]

Thanks Neil.

Some poss'ies there.

A drawbar at tang end thru the spindle wld prob be a sensible thing to have too.

[RETIRED]

Thanks Neil.

Some poss'ies there.

A drawbar at tang end thru the spindle wld prob be a sensible thing to have too.
Yessum, saves some embarrassing moments. DAMHIKT. :whistling2::D

[rsser]

heh heh ...

some rouge applied to the cheek might improve the mug but prob not at 1000 rpm :-

[Paul39]

I bought nuts from a industrial fastener supply to fit two lathe spindles. The 1 inch X 8 threads per inch about $2 US. The 33 mm X 3.5 mm pitch were about $27 US for 5. $9 each / price break at 5.

I weld / screw / glue all sorts of things to them and they thread on my spindles.

I also have turned 125 mm disks from 25mm decking with a a recess in the back to grab with a chuck and glued sandpaper to the front. Nice flat surface for sharpening a skew.

[robert brown]

Hi ern did you manage to get a lathe arbor yet ..........this is one i made if you are interested.

[rsser]

Thanks guys.

yeah, a kind forumite is making one up to my regrettably changing specs :-

[Sawdust Maker]

Tis funny
It's an item I thought Enzo at Vermec might have had

[hughie]

Ern, Most likely they are called something different on Google. Thats half the battle with Google. But at the end of the day I suspect they are not a common item, maybe take up the offer and have one made.

But maybe this is what your after, see item 939

Delta Wood Lathe Accessories 1948 (http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/delta-wood-lathe-accessories-1948.html)

or maybe here

Threaded arbor - Shop sales, stores & prices at TheFind.com (http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-threaded-arbor)

[rsser]

Ta Neil. Yeah, 939 looks like it.

[Allen Neighbors]

Ern, don't know if this'll make sense to you, or if you're even interested.
I built an arbor to hold a grindwheel on my VL 100 lathe.
Chunk of hardwood turned to 1/2 sphere with tenon on the flat side to fit in my chuck. Drilled 3/4' hole in center of tenon to 1/4" depth (for axle/bolt head); then put the tenon in my chuck and drilled 1/2" hole through the center to accept the bolt/axle for the grindwheel. Used Epoxy to put the bolt in the hole, and used the tailstock to insure the bolt was centered and straight in the hole.
I use this to hold the grinder wheel on my mini lathe when I'm turning away from home. I'm too lazy and too crowded to carry the large sharpening system with me.
You might use this while you're waiting on the arbor to get built and delivered.

[rsser]

Thanks for the tip Allen.

[Calm]

Ern i received my H&F catalogue (https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Catalogue?link=top) in the mail yesterday - metal lathes from $650 up to $16,000.

Surely a man with your reputation for tools :p:wink::D would just buy one of them and make his own. No wrist probs not having to hold gouges, just turn the handle.

Would put you one step ahead of that bloke near the border. :oo::oo: .remember he who dies ............................

cheers

[rsser]

LOL.

Getting pretty crowded in the shed now; added router table and SCMS before Xmas. Still a long way to go tho before I'd come close to LG's complement.

Anyway, Durdge39 is v. kindly making one up for me.

[Durdge39]

As rsser said, I have been plodding along making a suitable item for him, and it is finally finished! Will take some pics later and post them so others can see what has been happening. Rsser, email will be sent shortly.

[rsser]

Cool. Many thanks!

[Durdge39]

Found the camera and an absent wall, so here it is. The bit that isn't on the shaft is a washer type object with a tapered face to help keep the draw bar centered on the other side of the headstock.

The main tapered spindle part was made from a 1" double ended bolt. Getting the taper right tricked me at one stage. Specs say that the No2 Morse taper has a 20.020:1 taper, and I had done calculations allowing for this taper to be applicable to one half of the cross section, but because it is spread between the two halves of the cross section, the triangular gaps left behind by the taper have a 40.040:1 taper each. I corrected this before I went too far luckily! The shaft holding end has a 1/2" 20tpi thread tapped into it, and the shaft is secured by a 1/8" roll pin visible in the photo. On the tapered end, a 8mmx1.25mm thread was tapped so a drawbar could be made using readily available all-thread found at our dear hardware stores. Drawbar was omitted from this because it would be cheaper to buy it at location than to post it due to its length.

The shaft is made of a tensile steel hex head bolt that was machined to appropriate dimensions and then had a 1/2" 20tpi thread cut along its length. An approx 60 degree hole was drilled into the outboard end to allow the use of a tailstock to support the piece and reduce wobble, also keeping it running truer.

A 5/8" bush was made in the event a larger bore wheel was to be mounted on the shaft. Made from low carbon steel and left oversize in length to suit the wheel to be mounted. Can be trimmed to suit.

The pressure plates were made from aluminum alloy plate from machinability's sake, not to mention, finding rod that diameter is a bit hard, and cutting plate steel isn't all that fun.

Finally, a bearing washer and an aircraft metal locking nut are used to secure the work. Those aircraft grade metal locking nuts have an immense amount of grip, so I used the lathe to take off about 2mm of the metal locking fingers, reducing the gripping power, but making the device far more user friendly.

If anyone has any questions, I'm more than happy to answer them and I hope other forumites found this interesting. :D

[TTIT]

Very flash bit of work Durdge :2tsup: Top job :2tsup:

[hughie]

Durdge39,

You might get a few more takers with that sort of quality work :U

[rsser]

Tom's arbor is here now and with a bit of luck this week I'll be able to set it up with an array of 3 MDF or wood discs and start the honing experiments.

F&E has kindly donated some leather strips to glue to the edges and charge with diamond paste.

I'll also try other options:

1. profiled MDF edge with emery compound for polishing out machining marks in gouge flutes (pity I recently sold my last P&N which would've been a good test item); this idea is Alan Lacer's and was used in his test of honed gouge edges published in American Woodturner, which showed that honing produces a cleaner cut with gouges and skews

2. silicone carbide grains (3 grits) embedded in epoxy filled edges (thanks to Tom for that carrier suggestion)

3. chromium oxide (Veritas) and alox/titanium oxide (Flexcut gold) wax crayons used with MDF; both of those however are at the very fine end of honing.

Thanks Paul for the suggestion about face side use as well. Throws up the idea of a large disc charged with several different grits.

This is about proof of concept: that users of HSS tools don't need a wet grinder but will benefit from a refined edge. So the challenge is to get from an edge shaped on the typical 80g bench grinder wheel to a refined edge honed to 1000g or better.

With discs used on edge, it shouldn't be too hard to mount a 12mm rod across a toolpost and so run Tormek or Jet or Scheppach jigs. On the face side I'm not sure about clearance; depends on a number of factors.

PS: thanks to the folk on the metalwork and carving forums for educating me about honing and honing compounds.

[Sawdust Maker]

Nice bit of work there, Durge :2tsup:

[Paul39]

Durge,

I admired your work and then noticed your age.

So nice to see young people interested in, and doing nice metal work.

From a 70 year old geezer who took up playing with a metal lathe 5 years ago, which led to going down the garden path to a bowl making addiction.

[hughie]

PS: thanks to the folk on the metalwork and carving forums for educating me about honing and honing compounds.
[/QUOTE]

Tis one of the endearing qualities of this forum . :2tsup:

Be interested to see your results Ern. I have been threatening to do something similar for a while now. :U

Paul39 as long as you keep learning and the body busy you'll be around a for a good while yet. :2tsup: With age comes wisdom which we can all benefit from.

[rsser]

The challenge Hughie will be to get from an 80g finish to 1000 or better in min. steps, as Malb pointed out in another thread.

I'm working on another option: 1" belt sander (Ryobi) with a jig in front. Have been able to source custom made belts in Zirconium and Trizact for shaping and honing.

[Paul39]

rsser,

Only with the 3rd, or maybe 5th lathe did I have a proper 8 inch 1750 rpm grinder and jigs.

Until then I had a much used 1 inch sander with no backing plate. The ability to depress a spring loaded arm to change a sanding belt is wonderful. A change of grit in less than 30 seconds.

[rsser]

Yes, there are some advantages to the method as well as that one. Belts run cool, which is useful to those using high carbon tools; tool bevels are flat (which is not a plus to those who will go on to do a 2ndary bevel on bench chisels and plane blades if they want that and the heel to be co-planar).

The drawback here at least is the difficulty of getting belts in finer grits. They have to be custom-made and I was lucky in finding a supplier that didn't insist on industrial quantities.

[NeilS]

Sounds like a very worthwhile project, Ern.

Will be very interested in your findings.

PS - diamond belts go down to very fine grits, but need to be run in water and are a bit exy. Also, only come in standard sizes to run on 6" and 8" drums, so not sure how compatible they would be with your machine. e.g. here (http://www.gemcuts.com.au/category16_1.htm)

.....

[rsser]

Ooh, another option. Ching ching.

Yeah, this work arises out of a concern at seeing so many turners struggle to save up for a Tormek or Jet.

My thinking is this: those are two technologies combined, wet grinding and jigging.

Users of HSS tools don't need a wet grinder. They do benefit from jigs and also from refining tool edges to eliminate jagged edges and burrs (in most cases).

So the objective is to find ways of power honing bevel faces in order to refine the edge. Carvers have been playing around with this for some time. An example here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f10/diy-gouge-hones-99350/).

I have an 80x USB microscope to examine the scratch patterns of the bevels that I will treat in various ways, and have no doubt what that will show as flatworkers have been hand honing bench tools for a long time.

Just as an indication, attached is a pic of a scraper edge off a 60 or 80g bench grinder wheel. The bevel is on the left. 1/4". Can something this ragged produce a clean finish?

Edit: have posted these before but just to add another pic .... this is about the same mag'n as the first, looking top down on the scraper, and the top has been lapped and a burr turned up with a Veritas burnisher. Better but still not brilliant. As an aside, I've heard doubts expressed about what the burnishing does to the steel's ductility.

[Paul39]

Bulk rolls or other sizes might be more available.

I have been curious about splicing sanding belts but have not searched until today.

I found this: Splice tape for sanding belts - WOODWEB's Adhesives Forum (http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/adhesives.pl?read=609582)

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtl8Tc5xMaEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

From: Stroke sander belt - Let's Talk ShopBot (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7135)

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/icons/icon1.gif

Besides this same site gary posted for materials -
AbrasiveSales.Com Specifications (http://www.abrasivesales.com/prods.asp?cat=RC)
you may want to check these sites for suggestions on what to use to glue ends of belts together.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2152445_make...per-belts.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_2152445_make-sandpaper-belts.html)
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ing_Belts.html (http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Making_Sanding_Belts.html)
PVA glue or cyanoacrylate adhesive has been recommended to bond ends of belt together. Several sites offer both adhesives in a google search. maybe this will be of help.
jb

----------------------------------

I have used a cyanoacrylate glue for rubber and plastics to join a fabric belt on my metal lathe. I suspect it would work on a lap joint on sanding belts. I would think you would have to remove the grit from the portion to be lapped

[rsser]

Yes, the abrasive has to come off to keep a low profile in the lapped joint.

And yes, rolls are available of the specialised abrasives but they're wide.

My 12 belts came to about $75 IIRC which was very fair.

[rsser]

Here's Tom's arbor with a 3 disc array. 3/4" MDF.

I started a trial of polishing out the milling marks on a gouge flute. GJ kindly lent me his big forged spindle gouge from P&N; this brand usually has distinct marks but the forging meant it hadn't had to be milled and it appears that GJ had done some polishing already.

There were still scratches visible to the eye though. I gave it about 2 minutes with emery crayon rated at 200 +/- 50g.

The grey crayon took readily to the centre of the disc (coarser grain?), not so well to the shoulders. It caked up unevenly in the centre but that allowed me to take some of the blackened compound off with abrasive paper after a few passes and start again.

I worked the cm or so from the tip running at 250rpm. It took metal off quickly and there's visible evidence of polishing but it wasn't getting into the deeper scratches. Maybe it needs longer and maybe the compound should be coarser.

The first pic is before and the 2nd is after, at 80x. I sidelit the shot to exaggerate the scratches; the deeper ones remained so it looks like little has changed. By eyeball however the increased polish is visible.

It's tricky to take these shots; the USBs scope's auto-exposure has trouble with the shiny surface.

And yes I dubbed the edge. Sorry GJ :- I owe ya.

So this flute polishing process only needs to be done once with a gouge; after that it's just deburring that's needed. I'm a bit disappointed with the result but this is the first shot; there are others in the locker.

And thanks again to Tom for the lathe arbor.

[hughie]

Ern I have had success with reflected light onto similar surfaces and using a timed exposure no flash.Fiddly if you don't have the right gear tho' ,as I didn't I made it hard for my self.:C:U

[rsser]

Thanks Hughie.

Yeah this is just an el cheapo; only control is focus.

[Sawdust Maker]

Ern
you really should get into photography
It's another place that can rip your wallet apart... regularly :cool:

[rsser]

Yes, you can spend up to a grand on a good standalone USB microscope but I'll stick to this $90 job for the odd pic of scratches.