SS pen WIP

[dai sensei]

I have been asked by a few people how I do my SS pens, and it is only now I have refined the process to a point I am happy to give a WIP, so here it is.

Before I start, I use silicon plugs for the tubes and my own silicon rectangular moulds, plus small cable ties from your local $2 shop. The plugs are just under 1” long, made by simply drilling holes the size of the outer diameter of the tubes in a piece of wood. After soaking in BLO as a release agent, I pour silicon in, and when set, pull them out. These can also be used for plugging ends of tubes when gluing in to timber blanks etc.

Basically I do 2 SS sleeves at a time. I black with tubes then add my silicon plugs at each end and a joiner in the middle.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130992&stc=1&d=1267338093

The SS cable has a rubber tube insert that needs to be removed. The best way to do this is with an “easyout” in the rubber tube, and holding the cable at the same end, then simply pull it out.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130993&stc=1&d=1267338099

I then slip a long length of the SS over the tubes and use a small cable tie on the silicon at one end as close to the tube as possible to fix the tubes.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130994&stc=1&d=1267338099

I then use a tie the other end whilst stretching the cable.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130995&stc=1&d=1267338099

Lastly I use another tie in the middle. I can find the silicon under the SS because it is white, but also it deflects under pressure of the tie. Timber plugs can be used, but you must then transfers marks exactly where the plugs are as you can't locate them once you are in the SS. I also mark the outside of the SS where I can see the end of the tubes, it helps to see the cut-off point after casting.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130996&stc=1&d=1267338099

I also mark the cut off point on the cable just longer than the mould so it will hold in place in the mould with minimal holders.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130997&stc=1&d=1267338099

I then cut off the cable ties ends and trim the excess SS using the edge of my grinder.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130998&stc=1&d=1267338099

Then I place it in my mould ready for casting. I locate the cable tie locks at the bottom, to keep the SS off the bottom of the mould, and small match sticks or similar against the ties on the sides where necessary.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130999&stc=1&d=1267338099


I do not cast under pressure, just pour the resin whilst on my bandsaw bench. I then switch on my bandsaw for a few minutes to help vibrate the bubbles out. After leaving overnight to set, I have a double blank ready for processing (not turning yet).
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131000&stc=1&d=1267338099

I then cut the middle and ends with a hacksaw, as far away from the tubes as possible, all you are doing is trying to expose the silicon plugs.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131001&stc=1&d=1267338099


Part 2 next

[dai sensei]

Part 2 of the WIP

I have a bent tipped scratch awl that is perfect for removing the plugs.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131002&stc=1&d=1267339007

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131003&stc=1&d=1267339007

To trim the blanks roughly to size I have found the best thing is a continuous diamond blade on a drop grinder, holding the blanks in a 2-way vice. This allows an initial cut, then very fine slither cuts until the brass is exposed (or very close). As the vise is not fixed in position, it also allows me to cut at an angle that is visually close to 90 degrees to the tube (often my tubes end up not quite square to the cast).
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131004&stc=1&d=1267339007

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131005&stc=1&d=1267339007

I then grind the ends flush with my wetgrind. This keeps the cable cool and polish them beautifully. I use a simple timber block with a hole to slide it on the wetgrind bar and an old bolt of suitable size to hold the sleeve. I rock the blank back and forth (rotating the block) on the grinder pushing it at the same time against the side face.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131006&stc=1&d=1267339007



http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131007&stc=1&d=1267339007

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131008&stc=1&d=1267339007


You can see the actual cable is intact and polished square and true.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131009&stc=1&d=1267339007

After a quick file with a round file to remove any remaining burrs or resin, your blank is now ready to turn.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131010&stc=1&d=1267339007

I turn them and sand through the grits to 12000 micromesh, finally polishing with a plastic polish from auto suppliers to give the ultimate shine (just like any resin blank).
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131011&stc=1&d=1267339007

Now get out there and make your own, stop bugging me for mine.
Mind you, you can buy mine for the right price, but they wont be cheap.

Cheers

[dj_pnevans]

Thanks for that Neil.
David

[gawdelpus]

Great photos and explanation Neil :) The only addition I can make is that you can add some color dye to tint the acrylic, all depends on taste of course :) . The process is a bit tricky but only of average difficulty ,the results are well worth the effort ,well done :2tsup::2tsup: cheers ~ John

[PenTurner]

Thanks Neil, that is a great tutorial, Amos:2tsup::)

[Big Shed]

Thanks Neil for taking the trouble to explain the process in such great detail (and pictures).

The end result is certainly worth the effort.

Having seen a couple of these pens (made by Amos) it is certainly something I would like to have a go at.

Would this process work in the resin saver moulds?

[MBUMIK]

:2tsup:great tutorial, thanks very much:2tsup:

:Ubut you did leave something out, where do you get the SS to start off with:U:doh:

:2tsup:thanks mate:2tsup:
MIK

[gawdelpus]

Bigshed - they wont work in the resin saver molds because you need to have some overlap to pull down on to the tube ,these things flair and fray and try to unravel when you cut them ,so the excess is needed to ensure a clean joint neatly down onto the tube you are doing .
Mik - I initially got some of these at mitre 10 but most plumber supplies would stock them , they come in various lengths from 300 mm up to a metre I think. They are used for water pipe connections ,you have to cut off the fittings ,a bit of a waste but these are not expensive relatively speaking :) Neils pics show how to remove the inner rubber from the braid , you push it off rather than try and pull it off,pushing expands ,and pulling contracts ,like the old chinese finger traps lol. cheers ~ John

[Sawdust Maker]

Great wip
thanks
have a greenie :2tsup:

[MBUMIK]

:2tsup:Thanks John:2tsup:

you make a great secretary:D:D:D

[dai sensei]

Bigshed - they wont work in the resin saver molds because you need to have some overlap to pull down on to the tube ,these things flair and fray and try to unravel when you cut them ,so the excess is needed to ensure a clean joint neatly down onto the tube you are doing .
Mik - I initially got some of these at mitre 10 but most plumber supplies would stock them , they come in various lengths from 300 mm up to a metre I think. They are used for water pipe connections ,you have to cut off the fittings ,a bit of a waste but these are not expensive relatively speaking :) Neils pics show how to remove the inner rubber from the braid , you push it off rather than try and pull it off,pushing expands ,and pulling contracts ,like the old chinese finger traps lol. cheers ~ John

As John says. The only point to add is that you do push the cable off, but you also pull the tube out, you sort of do both at the same time.

[Harry72]

Couldnt you just use earplugs to block the ends before casting?

[dai sensei]

Couldnt you just use earplugs to block the ends before casting?

Perhaps, but the ones I have here aren't big enough. My own are simple for me to make. I have 3 sizes and cast up to 20 of each at a time. I'm also using silicon to make moulds all the time and tend to use the left-overs to make plugs, I also recycle my plugs.

[gawdelpus]

Addendum :) found this today , so I stand corrected ,you can use a resin saver mold to cast, not sure if the final result will be the same as not sure how CA and resin perform together , These look ok though and worth trying I think ,could save a lot of messing about .
LINK (http://www.penturnersparadise.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=4769) cheers john :U