what finish for pens

[Ian007]

Hi guys
was wondering being new to this turning stuff and all,
what sort of different finishes do you use when turning pens.

I am already using ubueat wax stick and glow what other finishes have you tried that get an exellent result?

thanks Ian :)

[whiskers]

:) :) :) using ubeaut eee and glow , magic stuff. whiskas

[DWFII]

As strange as it may seem, one of the best finishes for pens is CA, AKA superglue. It produces a deep, glass like finish that lasts longer than any other...longer than shellac based finishes by a long stretch. I've never seen one wear out, actually.

You need several different grades of CA--thin and medium--and optical abrasives...ie. MicroMesh...to 12000

Here's two photos of pens using a CA finish (hope this works)

[DWFII]

OBTW, the first pen in the photos above is Mediterranean Olive the second is African Blackwood.

[smidsy]

I use the ubeaut shithot wax, seems to work well.
Cheers
Paul

[antman]

DWFII,
Just wondering about how you apply the CA? Would you mind outlining what you do? I like finish but I imagine there could be some serious issues in applying it! :D
Cheers
Anthony

[PAH1]

Shellawax and then traditional wax over the top. CA may be durable but then you really have woodgrain plastic. I like the feel of the wood with the shellawax. Some use PU type things and have that same plastic feel to them.

[DWFII]

Anthony,

What I do is sand to 400 with regular red or white sandpaper. Then apply a coat of thin CA as a sanding sealer...if there's dust in open grain pores, no problem.

I fold a sheet of waxed paper (you can use one of the pastic baggies that pen parts come in, too) and with the lathe turning real slow, hold the wax paper under the blank and drizzle the CA into the space between the waxed paper and the wood. Spread it evenly and then let it cure--about five minutes max. If your lathe won't get down to 500rpm (?) you may have to turn it by hand. When it is cured, sand it down to 400 or 600 again. Back to the wood actually (just barely)...remember this first coat is a sanding sealer. Then switch to 1500 grit MicroMesh and sand through the various grits to 12000MM. This doesn't have to be but a moment's use of the MM before switching to the next grit up. And don't run the lathe too fast.

Lay on another layer of thin CA. Then another . And yet a third. Let cure in between each application. Don't sand in-between unless the surface gets a drastic orange peel effect. Now sand down again from 1500MM to 12000. You should get a real deep shine starting about 6000. It just sot og "pops."

Apply a coat of medium or thick CA and if it is pretty smooth another coat of thin. Sand from 1500 to 12000 paying close attention to any bumps or dips, especially in the early stages. By the time you hit 12000, the surface should be glass smooth and deep and brilliantly high gloss.

I apply Hut Plastic Polish for the final rub down and then a coat of Renaissance Wax buffed out with a soft cloth.

That's all there is to it. Having said that, it can be tricky. And this is only one of maybe a dozen methods including using boiled linseed oil on the application cloth as an accellerant.

Don't put you accumulated finish on too thick, more is not better. A CA finish can lose resiliancy when it is too thick and can shatter if dropped. Applied no heavier than I describe and it is virtually shatterproof.

This finish looks like glass not like plastic but it can be damaged by heat (like plastic) so, again, don't sand at too high a speed.

OK. opinion time:I love the look and feel of wood as much as anyone and there are few items other than pens that I would consider as suitable candidates for a CA finish. But pens are an exception. A shellac based finish will be dull two days after you have buffed it and a pen finished only with shellac will be dingy with grime, and sweat, and oils from the body after less than two weeks of use. When done correctly, a CA finish will double the eye appeal of your pens and double the price you can charge for them...and look just as good a year from now. And if you're wanting to sell pens...eye appeal is everything. Believe me.

[Christopha]

Cyanoacrylate ( super glue) is scary schidt to use :eek: ...... Shellawax Glow over EEE will give you as a good a finish and is very durable..... Whiskers turns and sells lots of pens, listen to him!

[DWFII]

Anthony,

By all means listen to whoever you wish...heck, my advice is to try both and choose the one you like best.

As with all advice here or on any forum, it's free and...well, you know what they say..."take it for what it's worth." ;)

That said, here's a thought or two...BLO will spontaneously combust if left on a rag for a time. Now that's scary. Some woods are toxic to anyone's health. Scary. The fungus that causes spalting is dangerous. Air borne wood dust larger than .3 microns is extremely dangerous. Heck, water is scary if you're under thirty feet of it with a ball and chain around your ankle.

Point is, if you're wise you take precautions in all circumstances--dust collector and air filter, rags in a metal trash can--or you quit turning.

By all means use a DC when using CA. Some people are allergic to the fumes. And if you use CA with the same care and deliberation you bring to sharp chisels and spinning wood, it's unlikely you'll be gluing yourself to the lathe.

Good luck.

[smidsy]

And remember guys, superglue is also excellent for teaching stubborn dogs to sit. :D

[antman]

Hi DWFII
I was more interested in how you didn't stick yourself to anything in the process. :D I use the Shellawax and EEE and like others find it a very nice finish that highlights timber well etc.
Thanks for explaining that to me, like I said before I really like the finish and I might give it a go sometime but for now I am happy with the tried and true that I know!
Cheers
Anthony