Looking for a Handle Maker!

[BozInOz]

My skills and equipment don't (as of yet) extend to turning. When my current project (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/dans-blackbutt-roubo-bench-100391-new/) reached a stage where it requires turning, I'm going to have to outsource.

I'm looking for someone to make me two handles to hold the steel rod used as the sliding vice parallel guide stop. (See pic if confused). Two handles for two vices.
http://www.benchcrafted.com/Graphics/Vises/LegVise/guide.jpg

The steel rod is 10.5mm in diameter and roughly 250mm long.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131383&stc=1&d=1267774416

I did a quick sketch. My thought was since all the force is on insertion and withdrawl to have it fatter at each end. (Spaced 11cm to allow for my 10cm palm.) The remainder of the bench has some distinctive curves and round overs. This would need to be considered.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f213/129533d1266035687-dans-blackbutt-roubo-bench-p1060315.jpg
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f213/129832d1266224130-dans-blackbutt-roubo-bench-p1060320.jpg
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f213/129230d1265684154-dans-blackbutt-roubo-bench-p1060308.jpg
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f213/129311d1265774682-dans-blackbutt-roubo-bench-p1060310.jpg
The design and size of the handle is not fixed.

In fact, any chisel handle design would also work.
http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/designs/turning_projects/images/chisel%20handle%201.png
http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/designs/turning_projects/images/chisel%20handle%203.png

I looked at different options for ferrules and thought the carbatec ones were as easy as any other. Brass is nice. Though the project has elements of chrome, steel, aluminin, and galvanised steel.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/images/product/F111.jpg
Carbatec Ferrules (http://www.carbatec.com.au/brass-ferrules_c17220)
Inside diameter: 22mm, outside diameter: 25mm, length: 17mm.

So what timber. The bench is made of blackbutt and the vices have rosewood (american) timber. I can supply blackbutt, redgum, or nice tassy blackwood upto ~45-50mm. If blackwood or redgum is choice I might like the vice handles replaced later. Fiddleback or straight.

How would it work?
I'm happy to hear any and all suggestions.
I'm happy to post you the required timber (with return post of course.)
I'm happier to keep the steel and ferrules for assembly here.
I'm happy for you to finish the wood or leave it bare sanded. (The rest of the project is finished with organoil danish.)
I'm happy to chip in a small voucher at carbatec or bunnings for your efforts.


PM or post a message comment here if
Much appreciated.

[funkychicken]

If you're desperate I could make them

[arose62]

When I looked at your pictures, I thought "Yuck" when I looked at handle design V1.

Hopefully, the attached picture is self-explanatory - this is an alternative handle profile which I saw in the negative space of the existing curves of your bench.

Fill in the blue carpet bit with an 'hourglass' handle, bigger at one end.

Cheers,
Andrew

[BozInOz]

Here's a design based on the 'negative' curves from the parallel bar.
I'll come up with a few more designs tomorrow.

[wheelinround]

Boz where is you located ??

[BozInOz]

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131413&stc=1&d=1267830014

I think I know which one I like.

Comments?

[funkychicken]

They're all ugly, E without the frills would work

[rsser]

An alt source of ferrules, with a wide range of sizes and cheaper than Carbatec can be found here:

Everything Woodworking (http://woodworks.com.au/)

Select Browse, search for and click on Handle Ferrules

[issatree]

Hi All,
Yes I agree, they sure are ugly Handles. Like F/C said E without the trimmings.
Ern I use A piece of Aluminum Chair as a Ferrel, & can be cut with a Gouge to sq. the ends. then polished with a bit of OOOO Steel Wool & wack some Beeswax over it.
Certainly saves a few $'s if you are doing quite a few Handles.
Most times the inside of the Aluminum has a rib, & I find this stops the Ferrel from slipping. Well that's my 2 cents worth.
Regards,
issatree.
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[BozInOz]

hmmm...

I actually liked G which is a refined version of arose62's F. (Though I think it was a little thin in the middle.)

Interesting that you say E. That's the traditional chisel design I copied from above which I copied from the sydney wood turners group.

You have to agree, B, sure is ugly. lol. it's like some sort of weird alien space ship impaled into a toilet plunger. anyway, design brain storming is always productive.

That woodworks shop looks great. Expensive though. I've been looking for a good bow saw and few other places sell them. But that's another story.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/16720-funkychicken/albums/tools-timber/1407-marking-set.jpg
An alternative design by funkychicken.

[rsser]

Blow the aesthetics; this is a push/pull peg isn't it, so a mushroom either end makes sense.

Thanks for the chair leg tip Issatree.

FWIW if the rod was epoxied in here you wldn't need a ferrule in any case; in fact IMO you'd have to glue it in. (Yes, ferrules make the tool look more finished.) Just a thought.

[funkychicken]

My handle design could work, it's designed for pushing but not pulling but could still work

http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/16720-funkychicken/albums/tools-timber/2395-bull-oak-awl.jpg

Free advertising:wink:

[tea lady]

My handle design would work too.:p I don't think you need aferrul unless there is gonna be excessive sideways force. :shrug:

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f8/119865d1256108478-day-getting-handle-things-mallets1.jpg

[stuffy]

Just a thought - isn't the ferrule going to mark the leg to some extent sooner or later? Maybe not if you are gentle enough.
If the handle had a larger diameter at the bottom and no ferrule you could shove it in against the leg without marking it.
I still like the look of the ferrule though.
My choice would be along the lines of "f". Flowing curves, easy to grip, not too long.
:2tsup:

[Texian]

Would be happy to do some handles, but too far away as usual.

Interesting blog (whatever that is) T.L. Beautiful first picture and I would ride a bus to see it, but not all the way from here to there.

[old pete]

Hi Boz,

Happy to make those for you when you decide on the one you want. About 10 minutes work.I have Huon Pine, Celery pine, Myrtle, Blackwood, Tassie hardwood, American Black wattle. Macrocapa and Silky Oak on the shelf. Might even be able to come up with some tiger myrtle.You will have to send if you want anything different. No charge happy to oblige.E mail me.

Old Pete

[tea lady]

Interesting blog (whatever that is) T.L. Beautiful first picture and I would ride a bus to see it, but not all the way from here to there.Thanks Texian.:cool: One day I'll evne blog about wood work and pottery. :rolleyes:

And back to the handles, I reckon Stuffy is right. The base of the "handle/knob thingy" should be flat so the contact surface is spread out a little. :think: Maybe like the hour glass but really squished? :shrug: So more chubby looking. Mightn't hurt your leg so much to run into either.:doh::cool:

[wheelinround]

Boz you can do this you have a pedestal drill, chisels, router, rasps maybe even spoke shaves or if really desperate power drill a man with your tallents can create what you want using the above.

No I am not taking away from FC who's work I admire just feel Boz is letting the darkside down.

[arose62]

Haven't used a leg vice, but I'm just wondering about some of the comments about "force", and "pushing and pulling".

I would have thought that the force would have been applied to the inside of the hole in the adjuster plate/blade and also to press the steel rod against the outside of the bench leg. Could you not just have the bare steel rod? (Ignoring aesthetics and personal preferences). Wouldn't it just slide in and out (when the vice was released).

If you had no handle, there would be nothing sticking out past the edge of the leg.

Another thought along the 'not sticking out' lines, is something similar in shape to a G-clamp, where the threaded part of the clamp represents the steel rod for this bench adjuster. Slip the gap over the adjuster blade, then slide the whole gimmick side to side to insert or remove the rod. (I'll have to do a diagram - I can imagine furrowed brows :)

Cheers,
Andrew