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View Full Version : Buying a wood turning lathe



hereward
31st March 2010, 10:48 AM
I would like advice on buying a wood turning lathe. I don't buy junk but could not justify over $2500 if new. However a good secondhand would also be good. I would like to be able to do up to 600 mm long spindle stuff and some larger burr work, so rotating headstock is preferred. I seem to see a lot of the same stuff being sold second hand whilst almost new which is a worry.

Any helpful suggestions appreciated.

Reece
31st March 2010, 10:52 AM
this seems to cover your needs, at the right price. and with $1000 still in your pocket, you could get some accessories for it, such as an outboard tool rest.

Nova 1624-44 (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/item/nova-1624-44-lathe)

Jim Carroll
31st March 2010, 11:58 AM
Reconsider your budget for a VL175 (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/item/vicmarc-vl175-stand-mount-evs-11kw), it will last a very long time and do the job you need easily

Ross
31st March 2010, 01:29 PM
My choice was the Nova 1624/44 (!^@$/44) and I am very happy with it. If you can hang on till June the Working with Wood Show is on so you will be able to see all brands at the same time and maybe pick up a show special.

Ross

jimdave
31st March 2010, 04:08 PM
If you are just a beginner like me, I wouldn't recommend starting off with the biggest and best. Why don’t you try and contact a local woodturning association and trying out wood turning first and then see and experiment to see what you really want. You may love it but you may give it up after 2 weeks

This might help you-
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/lathe-37615/
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/woodturning-7616/

robo hippy
1st April 2010, 03:33 AM
My first preference would be a lathe with variable speed, the turn a knob type. This means either a DC motor which is fine, or a 3 phase motor, 220 volt (don't know if voltages are the same down under) with a converter which is better. This is one fairly recent innovation on lathes that, once you have it, you never want to go back to changing pulley wheels. It is especially handy if you are turning unbalanced blanks. I do prefer a sliding headstock for bowls, so you don't have to bend over to turn which is a literal pain in the back. On some lathes, the headstock will pivot, which works as well, but I still prefer the sliding headstock. If you get a bowl coring system, the McNaughton is the only one that will work if the headstock is pivoted. Of course, the more horse power the motor has the better for production bowl turning, but you don't need a lot for fun turning.

robo hippy

TTIT
1st April 2010, 09:57 AM
............I seem to see a lot of the same stuff being sold second hand whilst almost new which is a worry. ............Wouldn't worry about that too much - in fact I'd jump on most of them. There's several common reasons for them going cheap in that condition...
1. Some blokes just look after their gear so well you'd hardly know it's been used (I wish :B)
2. Had a scary "introductory experience" and decided turning wasn't for them.:o
3. Just didn't get the bug.:no:
4. Bought it just to turn the occasional knob or handle. :shrug:
5. Bought it for retirement and carked it at 66 :C

hereward
1st April 2010, 10:15 AM
I am new at this and have not figured out how to reply with thanks for the info receive, so I am doing a new thread. I have seen the Nova and like it. The Victorian machine is very well regarded, I did a lesson in the UK last year and it was considered the best in the world. but, turning may be just a phase so I cannot lash out that much money. I will be going to the Sydney show so a good deal on a Nova could be just the thing.

Finally, for novices are HSS chisels the best and what is the best sharpening system?

RETIRED
1st April 2010, 11:04 AM
I am new at this and have not figured out how to reply with thanks for the info receive, so I am doing a new thread. I have seen the Nova and like it. The Victorian machine is very well regarded, I did a lesson in the UK last year and it was considered the best in the world. but, turning may be just a phase so I cannot lash out that much money. I will be going to the Sydney show so a good deal on a Nova could be just the thing.

Finally, for novices are HSS chisels the best and what is the best sharpening system?If you have a look at the bottom or top of the thread there is a "post reply" button. Click that and enter what you like to reply.:D

rsser
1st April 2010, 12:11 PM
Finally, for novices are HSS chisels the best and what is the best sharpening system?

There's lots of posts on sharpening systems hereward (the Wake?) ... just go to Search up in the menu bar and enter the phrase in the box, or go to Advanced to get more options.

Yes, HSS is really the only way to go for Aussie woods.

To add to TTIT's post, guys who get the bug often upgrade their lathe in time. As posted for the Tassie seeker, contact any local ww/turning clubs and let them know you're in the market; good lathes for sale often never hit the open market.

Ozkaban
1st April 2010, 12:43 PM
Buying second hand makes a lot of sense. My first lathe was a second hand MC1100 (off these forums), and while it was pretty cheap it did the job and got me hooked :D I've since upgraded to a Vicmarc VL200 which I also bought second hand off a hobbyist who was giving the game away, and it runs perfectly. When I upgraded I sold my old lathe to another forumite and didn't lose a lot of money at all - something to consider.

Oh, and the other thing you will need to note - a good set of HSS tools (as Ern said, essential!), chucks, jaws, sharpening, etc will cost quite a bit. Easily more than the lathe itself.

For sharpening, I use a bench grinder with an al-ox (white) wheel on it and a sharpening jig from Woodcut. Works great. If you're good at freehand sharpening don't bother, but if you're learning it is very worthwhile having the jig as you can repeat the grind every time.

As you're in Aus, a good level of chisel to get is P&N. There are better (and far worse) brands out there, but these are quite good value for money and are excellent quality.

Chucks and jaws, etc will keep you busy for a while too, but you can accumulate these as you go and work out exactly what sort of stuff you like doing.

Cheers,
Dave

artme
1st April 2010, 12:50 PM
Yes Hereward HSS is the best steel for turning tools. Buthere ieHSS and there is HSSS. Therefore there are turning tools and there are turning tools.

For mine the P&N are difficult to best, particularlyu as the price is so good. Hare and Forbes sell them. You can buy them unhadled, find a club as Ern suggests, and turn your own handles. Good satisfying way to begin as a turner.

rsser
1st April 2010, 01:35 PM
Yeah, P&N steel is pretty good - the finish on their gouge flutes is however pretty poor. The milling marks must be honed out to get a decent edge.

I've got a Hamlet and a Crown - no complaints. Also have a few Sorbys - steel quality is variable.

Best all round IME is Henry Taylor. But they're exxy and AFAIK now the only local source is here (http://www.woodturningsupplies.com.au/).

If I was starting out again, I'd try out a few tools from Garry Pye whom I've come to trust: click (http://gpwoodturning.sitesuitestores.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=1107133409).

hereward
1st April 2010, 02:26 PM
Thanks for suggestion about joining a club, I did but was asked to leave. Apparently i did too much of my own work and not enough for charity. A shame because some of the turners were very good.

rsser
1st April 2010, 02:54 PM
Sounds like you're living up to your name.

hereward
1st April 2010, 04:05 PM
Hello, you must be English or a student of history. I feel hereward was the last true Englishman.

rsser
1st April 2010, 05:19 PM
Hereward the Wake was believed to have been a hot-headed young man who argued with his father, became involved in a dispute with the English King Edward the Confessor and was subsequently exiled to Europe at the age of 14

Source (http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/hereward-the-wake.htm)

Some centuries later he would've been sent to the Antipodes I expect.

hughie
1st April 2010, 07:04 PM
Source (http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/hereward-the-wake.htm)


Some centuries later he would've been sent to the Antipodes I expect.


yes a 'remittance man' I believe was the term.

Ozartisan
1st April 2010, 08:23 PM
HI Hereward
What part of Mid Coast are you?
Anywhere near Taree?
If so, happy for you to call in to Artisans Retreat & check out the lathes & tools, sharpening jigs etc that are used in our woodturning classes.
Have a couple of DVR's and a 1624 as well as a Jet mini you can check out.
I also had the pleasure of demonstrating at the Hunter (Newcastle) show on the Trend Timbers stand. The lathe was their new "Cougar" unit and I must say I was VERY impressed with it for the price (around $2000).
I am away over easter, but happy for you to call me & make a time to check out the gear.
Contact info on our website.
Cheers
Peter

orraloon
5th April 2010, 11:12 PM
Its a bugger when invading French hordes force one to take to the swamps just for not being 100% with the program.
Anyhoo what better than to have lashed up a pole lathe to pass the idle hours lurking in the watery fen.
On the serious side if you are starting out the advice I would give is get something secondhand but good quality. Have a look at all the sources.Ebay, trading post, local adverts and the marketplace on here. Often secondand hand lathes come with a few tools too. Later on if you really have the bug then trade up. If the first lathe is decent then you will have no probs selling it on. If you find something you can ask on here if it is a good buy or a lemon before taking the plunge.
Regards
John

hughie
6th April 2010, 09:58 AM
Heres a few pointers to consider
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Cast iron headstock and tailstock.
Cast iron bed.
Pivoting or rotating headstock with solid mounting, positive clamping and convenient means of returning the headstock to the original position, ie pins etc
Solid bowl turning banjo which does not flex, this is to accommodate the swivel head stock. Only really available on quality lathes
Secure and convenient locking, clamping and repositioning of tool rest, tailstock and barrel.
Well shaped tool rests not light weight or poorly made. Also tool rests that can be adjusted at least 10-12mm ( ½”) above and below centre height.
At least four speeds ranging from 500 r.p.m. to around 2000 rpm or higher. But ideally speeds of around 2-300rpm would be better
Check vee belt for quality and condition. This can be a good indicator on how the lathe has been used
If you can, have a look at the pulley system for rough machining or casting and or sharp edges. This sort of thing will shred your belts in minutes
If second hand don’t be too concerned if the tailstock and headstock are not 100% aligned, not all lathes can do this from day one. But check the bearing in the headstock for sideways or vertical movement. It’s a good idea to give the chuck a pull to see if there’s any forward and back motion. This may indicate worn bearing housing which is fatal. Also don’t forget to check the quill on the tailstock for side movement
Mechanical or electronic variable speed system to save fiddling with pulleys and belts. Otherwise a belt and pulley arrangement that is easy to get at and change or move the belts
Dust proof induction motor of 1/2" H.P. minimum for small mini lathes or 1hp for the rest. Try and avoid motors with brushes as it will add to the maintenance bill. Should have capacitor start and centrifugal switch for high starting torque.
Push button switch with "no-volt-release• ie safety switch sealed against dust. That is, if you remove the power from the lathe when its running and restore the power the lathe should not start
Heavy duty ball or roller bearings not solid or sleeved bearings [these are rare these day mainly applies to old lathes].
Widely spaced bearings which preferably support both ends of the spindle.
Morse taper in headstock spindle and in tailstock barrel plus convenient means of ejecting taper fitted accessories. Number 2 Morse taper is better than number 1.with #1 you will need a 1-2 morse taper sleeve
Easy spindle locking (so you can unscrew the faceplate or chuck easily)
Standard headstock spindle thread to enable you to buy chucks from a wide choice of suppliers not just the lathe maker, you don’t want some weird diameter and thread pitch. This will make it very difficult to get chucks, face plates etc to fit
Register or step on the headstock spindle nose for true running of chucks, ie normally there’s a little step on the shaft that the chuck screws onto and it acts as alignment
Tailstock with hole right through enabling you to drill cable holes in lamps or any long drilling jobs for that matter
Long tailstock travel [at least 50mm or 2"] for drilling and good sized hand wheel which is easy to turn. Preferably not plastic but cast iron or aluminium
Good reliable make. Well known makes have better resale value and have a reputation to up hold and there fore will have a better finish, design and QC. Ok you pay a bit more for it but quality rarely comes cheap
Good dealer backup and spares availability. This is important on the modern vari-speed lathes as repairs are often beyond average turner.

Features to avoid or watch out for
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Light sheet metal construction especially the legs.
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Tubular bed set up of light weight pipe
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Tailstock with threaded barrel which rotates in the housing when you tighten it.
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Rough castings – sharp edges poor machining. These all indicate a lack of quality control and you will most likely have problems down the track
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Weird or unknown brands
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Weld repairs to the tool rest can indicate severe usage
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Exposed belt drive
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Poor electrics ie switches, frayed and damaged cabling
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Flimsy motor mounts ie light weight pressed steel
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Check where the motor is situated. Some have the motor high up in line with the chuck and can interfere with your turning capacity
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Can you access the belts easily for speed changing
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Small foot print for the bed mounts onto the stand. All good well designed lathes will have strong wide mounting feet configuration
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Basic ergonomics ie handles and locks are easy to access and use
<!--[if !supportLists]-->·<!--[endif]-->Hows the height for you?