Gluing skirting boards

[Marc]

Hi there!
I wonder if you can give me and idea as to what to use to glue a skirting board to bricks. I decided to have skirting boards on my recently completed veranda. So the skirting is under cover but the wall is not smooth brick but textured brick, so it is rather rough. I was thinking to use stud glue, but perhaps you have a better idea?
I glued two pieces of architrave to this tipe of brick and since I wasn't sure what to use, I put one dab of stud glue and one of liquid nail alternating and a line of caulk it "earth" colur to match the brick on the edge that shows. Well it worked :D ... should I do so with 12 meters of skirting boards? Somehow I think the nailing gun will not help in this case ... ;)

[capedcrusader]

Hello Marc
Couldnt you knock some timber wedges/plugs into the bwk perpends and nail to those ???? The wedges should be cut to have some twist in their length.

[johnc]

Solid brick walls usually just have a timber plug or dowell knocked in and skirting nailed to that, the timber will actually expand slightly if it picks up moisture from the brick work and lock in nice and tight. Stud adhesive will work but I wonder how well it would hold over time.

[journeyman Mick]

Marc,
if you want the skirting to stay put, glue it on with a polyurethane adhesive/sealant (Sikaflex, Bostik seal and flex or similar) If you don't mind it falling off a few years down the track use liquid nails or similar. Use hot glue to hold the skirting in place while the sika sets.

Mick

[wombat47]

Because plastic plugs and old plaster don't mix, I cut my own plugs from western red cedar. I have a few bits of tongue and groove board, specially for this purpose. Saw into desired length for plugs, split with hammer and chisel into roughly square cross section, and whittle into a rough plug shape with a utility knife. It's dead easy and 10 or 15 minutes of whittling will give you a very nice pile of plugs.

The cedar is quite soft - it gives, rather than the wall. When it is nailed, it tends to split a bit and bite into the wall, giving excellent holding power. I've used these plugs in bricks and concrete and they can also be used for external fittings.

This how-to was given to be a builder who renovates old houses and resells. He reckons dowel is too hard - won't expand and therefore won't grip. You can get a plug-cutter but then you need chunky bits of timber to cut from - you need the grain going down the length of the plug.

[vsquizz]

Solid brick walls usually just have a timber plug or dowell knocked in and skirting nailed to that, the timber will actually expand slightly if it picks up moisture from the brick work and lock in nice and tight. Stud adhesive will work but I wonder how well it would hold over time.
All the old skirting boards in my place had wooden plugs and nails. Some of them had a couple of nails obviously to tighten up. I just pulled down the pelmet and rail for an old sliding door and found this. Think its getting a bit beyond the joke:eek:

Cheers

[seriph1]

I am impressed you were able to get the thing off!

[Marc]

Thank you guys, somehow I prefer to go glue and not nail, and after seeing the blooming nail bunch in the picture more readily so than ever. Thank you all.
Mick, Sikaflex + hot glue it is! :D

[vsquizz]

I met Jimmy at the Bar and he helped me pull it off;) with his mates Elbow and Grease. Iv'e ordered some plaster to fill the hole. Truck should be here first thing tomorrow:rolleyes:

Cheers

[Marc]

I'm surprised you did not brake the wood, what did you use a crowbar?

[vsquizz]

Jarrah Marc, no probs. Actually most of the old Jarrah skirting boards from my house now reside in various pieces of furniture around the place. The best jarrah for furniture is recycled stuff I reckon. Might need to get the plug cutter out to fix the hole though.:eek: Do they make 1" plug cutters?.


Cheers

[Marc]

Absolutley!
Carbatec has some realy good plug cutters as big as you like. Drill the hole with a ..mm.. what you call those drill bits that cut flat square holes? well those ones. I used a combination of mm drill bit and plug cutter 19mm to plug recicled oregon for some stairs and it turned out really good, you can hardly see the circular glue line if you choose your plug timber well.

[dbear]

I would be keen to here how you eventually go. I have a similar problem with skirting boards to internal masonry walls. They have been previously glued (sometime in the last 7 years, before I moved in, but are now falling off. I am thinking about doing a combination - gluing to sold them to the wall, and nailing to hold them while the glue sets and as insurance. Any thoughts on this idea or any other bright ideas. Most of the walls are rendered brick.

Ta

[vsquizz]

DB, I do what Mick said but I don't use hot glue just concrete nails to hold in place until the glue goes off. I then punch the nail head in a tad and fill or pull it out...whatever. Just wish I could get all my inside F%#*#!!en mitres to match. Always can do nine perfect then the tenth one will bugger up:(

Murphy's a pick with an "r"

Cheers

[silentC]

Now Squizzy you've been here long enough to know that we don't mitre internal corners, we scribe them. Tsk tsk....

[Gaza]

on the unit jobs we work on we just use the cheap **** builders adhesive $2.50 tube. (Fullers not that bostik crap at bunnings) and hold it in place with 30mm skirting nails or use a hardened brad fired from a special air bradder.

my mate who does big $$$ houses uses spegati with 3in BH nails but still uses adhesive.

and dont forget to prime the back of the skirting.

[dbear]

After reading all of the advice/opinion, I went ahead and did a combination of gluing and nailing. I used the Sikaflex (about $20 a tube but I wanted it to stay on) to bond between the the skirting boards (jarrah) and the rendered brick wall. I nailed it in place to hold it there until the glue set. I used normal bullet heads (40 x 2.5 mm) and nailed into 8 mm dowels set into the wall. To set the dowels, I pre-nailed the skirting boards, tapped them up against the wall to mark and then drilled in. I then pushed the dowel in as far as it would go and broke it off at wall level (assisted by a chisel). I was told that 6 mm was the normal size dowel but with movement of the masonry bit when drilling the holes was worried about the dowels and nails aligning. In the end it all appears to have worked a treat.

Ta