Sanding advice for a beginner?

[seanz]

I want to do some small bowls from Macrocarpa and, before I start, I thought I would ask a pretty basic question about sandpaper grits.

How do you progress through the grits when you're sanding softwood turnings? Do you use all possible grades up to 1000 or do you skip a few? I need to know because the sandpaper is looking like a major (for me anyway) expense.

It's a 'given' that I'll be starting with 80 grit......

[hughie]

I want to do some small bowls from Macrocarpa and, before I start, I thought I would ask a pretty basic question about sandpaper grits.

How do you progress through the grits when you're sanding softwood turnings? Do you use all possible grades up to 1000 or do you skip a few? I need to know because the sandpaper is looking like a major (for me anyway) expense.

It's a 'given' that I'll be starting with 80 grit......


Seanz,
Pretty well progress through the grits not missing any, down to around 320 or so. Then you need to decide what sort of finish you require. If going further keep on going down through the grits again.

To save time and improve your finish have look at these links. I personally use both power and inertia sanders and would not be with out one

Power sanding:
YouTube - Power Sanding from the video "Bowl Basics: A Workshop with M


Inertia sanding:
Popular Search for INERTIA SANDER - Woodturners Catalog - Woodworking tools and supplies specializing in woodturning. (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/w9sm/popular-searches/inertia-sander?Args=)
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/bowl-sanding-paddles-74970/
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/wip-inertia-sander-102852/
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/sanding-fast-slow-107201/

[Texian]

Each successive grit no more than 50% higher "number" than the previous grit for any wood, hard or soft. Thus; 80, 120, 180, 220 or 240, 320, 400. May go finer depending upon the wood and the type of work. If you are making dust you are sanding, but if not making dust the paper is worn out and you are just burnishing. The usual comment is to use sandpaper as though someone else was paying for it.

[robo hippy]

I think I spend more time sanding than I do turning. No matter how good my tool finish is, the sanding takes more time. I do power sand, which is a lot faster than hand sanding, and does a considerably better job. Again, more money to spend. Falling deeper into the vortex!!!!!!!!!!

robo hippy

[seanz]

I haven't finished reading all of the stuff Hughie posted but it looks like what I need.
Thanks for all the replies.



The usual comment is to use sandpaper as though someone else was paying for it.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->


Especially that one.
:)

Sounds like I'll just work my way up through the grades then and have a bit of an experiment as I go. I've got to sort out at least a pad....I'll put an inertia sander* on 'The List', I used one recently and quite liked it.

*Or is it a angle sander? It's the little non-powered disc/pad sander, very effective once you get it running.

[seanz]

Ha! Apparently it's called a Rotary Sander (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/rotary1.htm#r1).
:D

[rsser]

Sanding turned bowls and platters | Ern’s blog (http://ern.reeders.net.au/blog/sanding-turned-bowls-and-platters)

[RETIRED]

When you think you have it right.

Leave it on the chuck and take it out into the sun and have another look while you tilt and rotate it to look for scratches.

[robo hippy]

Another 'extra' for sanding is a good light. I have a multi spectrum light (Blue Max, and Ott lights are two brands up here) that was made for the quilters and needle point people. Almost as good as sun light. Having good glasses also helps.

robo hippy

[artme]

Seanz there is a chart in the library comparing grits.

There are different ways to measure grit so make sure they are all the same type of grit. Not usually a problem.

Grit technology has made some huge strides in recent times and there are different materials used as well as different ways to glue the material to the paper. Much of this is aimed at producing non-clogging abrsives as well as longer lasting grit.

[joe greiner]

Not yet mentioned (unless in the links) is to wipe off the dust before proceeding to the next grit. Reduces the likelihood of trapping a large pebble in successive sanding.

Grit ID is often printed sparsely on the back of the paper. Fine and dandy if you use large sheets. For smaller pieces, duplicate the ID more densely in pencil or ink, or better yet get hold of an automatic numbering machine from a stationery store. Set for constant number (zero increment), and print everywhere. If that's considered too dear, use a color code with felt-tip highlighters.

The only remedy I've found so far, for distaste of sanding, is to hold my nose and try to enjoy it. The results are worth it.

Cheers,
Joe

[Alastair]

FWIW, I always slow the lathe down for the sanding step. IMO, if the paper gets uncomfortably hot for my unpadded fingers, one of:

Lathe too fast
Pressure too high
or sandpaper worn out

is true:)

regards