Help please, outdoor storage

[gatlingsu]

Hi all, new to this forum, need some help regarding outdoor storage.

I am totally new to this kind of things, so don't have any knowledge at the moment.

Below is a sketch of what I have in mind,


Questions, and thanks in advance,


1, from something I read, I feel I can use treated pine to build the frame, exterior plywood for the panels, am I right, any better option?

2, Will these materials stand sunlight and rain water? Or need some kind of painting to offer proper protection?

3, this thing is to hold small electric mower, blower, small tools, no heavy stuff. Can the plan be simplified? For example, can I use thicker panels and discard the frame?

4, For the thickness of panels and frame, what should I be looking at? Can I have thinner panel at the back, which will be touching a wall of my house.

5, I have to install doors on both sides, can't have it in the front, because the place is too tight to have a door opening on the front side. Any issue there?

6, how do I stop rain water coming in? Any paint work as sealer as well, or need to apply sealer separately?

Thanks again



http://www.airforceworld.com/storage.jpg

[mic-d]

Just some quick responses to get started in quote below



1, from something I read, I feel I can use treated pine to build the frame, exterior plywood for the panels, am I right, any better option?

Treated pine will be fine, but I would opt for treated exterior plywood too if there is even the slightest chance of termites. Blighters are very active again and I have had two instance in the last 2 months of termites in exterior plywood close to the ground.
2, Will these materials stand sunlight and rain water? Or need some kind of painting to offer proper protection?

You will need to paint it with a good exterior paint or clear finish

3, this thing is to hold small electric mower, blower, small tools, no heavy stuff. Can the plan be simplified? For example, can I use thicker panels and discard the frame?

I would use a small frame and thinner ply, 12-15mm just too make it rigid.

4, For the thickness of panels and frame, what should I be looking at? Can I have thinner panel at the back, which will be touching a wall of my house.

12-15mm ply and 70x35 stud (simply because it's readily available and cheap).
Again be aware to allow room for termite inspection behind the locker. If you have a back on it and its hard up against a wall it's a very convenient place for termites to enter the house.

5, I have to install doors on both sides, can't have it in the front, because the place is too tight to have a door opening on the front side. Any issue there?
No

6, how do I stop rain water coming in? Any paint work as sealer as well, or need to apply sealer separately?
I would stop rain coming in through the top by flashing the back of the lean-to roof into the side of the house and have slight overhangs on the other sides. To stop run-off water, you really need to put it up on a little slab or pavers and put a plastic/tin flashing under the bottom frame.

Thanks again





welcome, by the way
Cheers
Michael

[gatlingsu]

Just some quick responses to get started in quote below


welcome, by the way
Cheers
Michael

Thanks a lot, really helpful.

Back to the question of sealing this thing, so exterior paint or clear finish will seal the gap between the panels, how many coats I should do, or just follow instructions on the can?

[mic-d]

Thanks a lot, really helpful.

Back to the question of sealing this thing, can exterior paint or clear finish seal the gap between the panels? Or need another method?

The way it's drawn, the only gap between panels you might have to worry about is the one between roof panel and back, should water get through the flashing. You obviously can't seal the doors shut and the roof should overhang the front panel and doors to prevent water entry. But you would want to use a waterproof sealer like Sikaflex to seal any gaps. Don't use silicone, paint won't stick to it. You could also use an exterior water soluble gap filler, come to think of it, that would be easier and cheaper than the Sikaflex.
Follow the instructions on the tin for the painting.

Cheers
Michael

[ian]

some further thoughts to Michael's

1, from something I read, I feel I can use treated pine to build the frame, exterior plywood for the panels, am I right, any better option?
I would opt for fibre cement sheet for the panels – if you don't mind it changing colour as it weathers, it doesn't need painting. Also, termites generally don't like it.
I'd also check the cost of a small prefab garden shed, mostly to price the metal sheeting.
Also, what are the building requirements? If the reason you can't have the door on the long side is the property boundary, are you allowed to have combustible material on the boundary.

2, Will these materials stand sunlight and rain water? Or need some kind of painting to offer proper protection?
Fibre cement sheeting or colour bond wouldn't need painting and the joint between the sheets can be sealed with a bead of silicon.
Also you'll need some form of waterproofing where the structure meets the wall of the house.

3, this thing is to hold small electric mower, blower, small tools, no heavy stuff. Can the plan be simplified? For example, can I use thicker panels and discard the frame?
If you want to discard the frame, you need stiffer panels, not necessarily thicker panels.

4, For the thickness of panels and frame, what should I be looking at? Can I have thinner panel at the back, which will be touching a wall of my house.
You could do away with the panel at the back and just use a three stick frame attached to the house. The 3 stick frame would have a horizontal to which would be attached the roof and 2 uprights to act as the door posts.

5, I have to install doors on both sides, can't have it in the front, because the place is too tight to have a door opening on the front side. Any issue there?
450mm is awfully narrow. I wouldn't be able to more than lean in through the door opening.

6, how do I stop rain water coming in? Any paint work as sealer as well, or need to apply sealer separately?
depends on the orientation of the shed. You might extend the roof by 500mm to shield the doors, and attach a guitter on the down slope side.

[gatlingsu]

Again thanks everyone for the advice.

I imagine Fibre cement sheeting can be cut by normal tools?

The reason it is only 450mm and having side doors, is that I live in a villa, which has a tiny backyard. The only place I can find to put this thing, is about 1m wide.

[ian]

Does your villa have a garage?
If it does I'd look at putting a narrow shelf (or shelves) at the back of the garage -- high enough for the bonnet of the car to go under, on which you could store the stuff you're looking to store in the cubby

[gatlingsu]

Does your villa have a garage?

If it does I'd look at putting a narrow shelf (or shelves) at the back of the garage -- high enough for the bonnet of the car to go under, on which you could store the stuff you're looking to store in the cubby

Yes I do, but the issue is the garage is not attached to my villa. The place I choose to put this storage is far from ideal, but it is the only place close to my little backyard.

[Old farmer]

I add my welcome, too, gatlingsu, thank you for the question and thank all for the hints. I do not have the same problem but have learned much for something similar.

[gatlingsu]

i add my welcome, too, gatlingsu, thank you for the question and thank all for the hints. I do not have the same problem but have learned much for something similar.
:)

[mic-d]

Again thanks everyone for the advice.

I imagine Fibre cement sheeting can be cut by normal tools?

The reason it is only 450mm and having side doors, is that I live in a villa, which has a tiny backyard. The only place I can find to put this thing, is about 1m wide.

Fibre cement certainly is an option. You'll need an FC sheet guillotine to cut it. Don't use powertools the dust in nasty! For straight cuts you can get by with tungsten score and snap knife.

Cheers
Michael