Another project finished

[Dano48]

SWMBO, and I where in NZ at X'mas and we saw a flint lock pistol and rifle at a second hand shop,I wanted to buy the pistol, but bringing it in to Australia was out of the question:no:, so the wife say you could make one of those, so I got some plans from ebay US, and 200 or so hours later, its finished, most of it was cut on the band saw, ground on the linisher, and filed,and filed, and filed:rolleyes: and polished with different grades of wet and dry, most of it was done in smoko breaks at work, I only used the lathe for the barrel and the milling machine to mill the square where the hammer screws to the cocking mechanism, I had a ball doing it , and will do it again, maybe the rifle next, but not right now, all the brass and most of the metal parts are mirror polished to the naked eye,( dam digital cameras:~) I guess I should not have used the flash:doh:, I think I will polish the stock a bit more, it looks a bit dull, for the case hardened look on the lock plate I just heated it with the oxy till I got the colors I liked, it is only a replica, the barrel is not drilled all the way through, there is a note on the plans that says, ANY BARREL DRILL RIGHT THROUGH, WHETHER RIFLED OR NOT, BRINGS IT WITHIN THE MEANING OF THE FIREARMS ACT, :oo:.
Cheers, Richard.

[jatt]

Looks the goods. Definite bummer about not being able to fire it without going thru a lotta government crap.

[19brendan81]

Looks really good mate, well done.

If you want anything hot blued send me a PM. I know a guy who does it at home, and I have seen the results....they are really really good.

Ill be getting some of my home made tools done, and a couple of rifle barrels so I'll post results when I get them.

Brendan

[Dano48]

Thanks Jatt, I dont think I could fire it anyway even if I wanted to, the main spring is not strong enough, although it sparks when fired, but the frizzen does not open up as it should, as it is only a replica and is going to hang on the wall, no need to re do it,
Thanks for the offer Brendan, that is the way the original is supposed to be polished barrel an case hardened lock and hammer , I have some tools blued, but I use the cold gun bluing liquid from Birchwood Casey Perma blue, and is not to bad, and lasts quite well, see pics of a quick change tool post that I made for my Atlas lathe a while ago,
Richard.

[19brendan81]

Hey Dano,

I have used that stuff before but not with as much success as you appear to have had. This hot bluing my mate does is the ticket. So long as you do the prep on the surface well the boiling chemicals do the rest of the work.

Brendan

[eskimo]

definitely look the goods
yep and our firearms law are tough

and so do these

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Talbot.htm

......even the springs are made of tree wood


"I think I will polish the stock a bit more, it looks a bit dull"...no it looks great just the way it is

[Dano48]

I tried some G96 gel but it wasn't as good as the Birchwood Casey Perma blue, I'm happy with it for small parts and tools, I think it works better if the part is a bit warm to, if ever I need to do a barrel I will take you up on that offer thanks Brendan,
Eskimo that's great work isn't it? there is excellent craftmanship out there in the world, there is a guy in Brisbane that I saw at the gun and militaria show at the RNA showgrounds a couple of years ago, he makes rifles replicas at about one third the size of the real ones, he even had an M16 assault rifle all working like the real thing, he told me he had to get a Police permit to make them because they can be fired if you can find bullets small enough,no bull, oh yeah, thanks for that link:((, now I have another project to think about:rolleyes:, oh well I will just add it to the list, lets see, Number 2,577:doh:, I really need to retire:D,
cheers

[matthew_g]

G'day there Richard, Long time no speak mate.......
That is one AWSOME project you have compleated there, I knew I was right when I said there are still true craftsmen in the world..
Richard I do have one question for you, I would like to know a little more about the chemical blueing prosess, I have often though of it but never given it a go as I had heard it was expensive and the results not so good.....Is this true in your opinion? I do realise that your results speak for themselfes but from the point of view of the hobbiest...
Kind regards Matt

[Dano48]

Hi Matt, yeah it has been a while, thanks for your coments, you're barking at the wrong tree though:D, I know nothing about chemicals for bluing, I only use what's commercially available, and the better one of the two I have used is the Birchwood Casey one, about $25.00 for a small bottle, I just apply it with a brush and then rinse and oil after dry, that seems to work for me, if you want it darker apply another coat, it goes a long way, for the size of the bottle,
Cheers.