View Full Version : Best way to flatten solid core door workbench?
joez
25th May 2010, 03:16 PM
Hi All, my workbench top is made using a solid core door, it's been in use for a few years now and is developing a slight hollow perhaps 2-4mm.
Planing it flat isnt an option as the outer covering of timber is only about 3mm thick.
I am looking for suggestions on a way to flatten it? Perhaps i can build the top up and then flatten it?
thanks
Joez
Skew ChiDAMN!!
25th May 2010, 04:19 PM
Given any thought to just fixing a sheet of 18mm MDF on top?
Then you wouldn't have to worry about cutting through the veneer if/when flattening.
joez
26th May 2010, 01:13 PM
Given any thought to just fixing a sheet of 18mm MDF on top?
Then you wouldn't have to worry about cutting through the veneer if/when flattening.
Thats the easiest option. I wonder if anyones done something similar using solid wood...
Might be easier to just build a new top altogether if i want a more traditional look....
joez
Christos
26th May 2010, 01:18 PM
Is it possible to flip the top over?
joez
26th May 2010, 03:10 PM
Is it possible to flip the top over?
Hi Christos, I can flip it over, but the whole door has sagged a little so fliping it wont really help unfortunatley.
thanks
Joez
blackhole
26th May 2010, 03:40 PM
Flip it over.
Put large weight (tool box / bricks / friend) on top to flatten hump.
Whilst the weight is flattening the hump glue and screw a brace or two underneath to prevent sag, once the glue is dry remove the weight.
joe greiner
26th May 2010, 08:17 PM
What he said. Place the stiffeners (angle iron or timber) in the direction(s) of hump/sag, lengthwise and/or crosswise as appropriate. Use a LOT of screws.
Cheers,
Joe
les88
27th May 2010, 07:33 AM
Replace the door. Our revolve tip sells doors from a $1 solid core $3
les
Bob38S
27th May 2010, 04:32 PM
Replace the door. Our revolve tip sells doors from a $1 solid core $3
les
I would go with the replacement also but would add braces under the new one and add either a sheet of form ply or masonite to the top.
You mention a hollow of 2->4mm, if you really want to keep this door then it could be added, either over or under the replacement to give a double thickness, screw together [to pull out the hollow/hill] and don't forget the braces.
joez
27th May 2010, 05:08 PM
Thanks for the idea's everyone! Now why didnt i think about bracing it in the first place ....
Oh well i'll have a good look at it this weekend and either brace the top i have or just replace (and brace it).
thanks
Joez