I want to buy a shed

[neksmerj]

It's unbelievable, but I have never had a proper workshop, so now it's time.

I reckon something about 6m x 3m or so, would do it, with a hipped roof.

So far I have had one quote of $5000 for the shed, and $2000 for the slab.
This was based on a size of 6.1m x 3.5m in colorbond with two windows in one end, two doors in one side, and two skylights. A proper rhs frame was incorporated in it's construction. The above quote also includes erection.

What brand of shed have you got, and are you happy with it? Were you able to erect it yourself? An indication of cost would also be appreciated.

Ken

[Woodlee]

Not sure what brand my shed is ,it did come from Queensland , the guy who put it up sourced it .
It 7m x 9m with 3 m wall height ,originaly I had a 3m x6m single carport , but have now extended the carpot right along one side of the shed which has doubled my roofed are.
I don't think my price will help you much ,but the original shed cost $13,000 including slab, erection, inspection and building code certification .My shed beams are all C150 and has angled supports on each vertical beam up to the roof beams.

The 3m walls are good because I have installed a mezzanine floor down one side for storage .

Kev

[Driftabout]

I have a 6 x 3 but find it's too narrow. Once the gear is in I found that I have very little clear space to work. It didnt take long to fill it up.

[Bryan]

Two things: It's never big enough. Get the biggest shed you can fit and afford. And don't skimp on the floor. The previous owner erected my shed and poured the floor. Cos he was a hero who could do anything. Except he made a hash of the floor. It makes life difficult and it annoys me every single day.

[steran50]

HI:),
I have a 'Safety Steel Structure Shed' with a RHS structural Frame 7.2M long x 6m wide x 2.7m wide. It Cost us about $5,000.00 to build (including purchase of Shed) about 2 Years ago. We built the Shed ourselves with help from My Uncle and some Mates, only had to pay the Concrete Guy and a Labourer The Shed came with a Sliding Door (Gable End and one Window. I made My own Side Door for it. I got a couple of Quotes for Colourbond Sheds and they were ridiculous One Company wanted about $6,000.00 for Colorbond and was only going to drop about $800.00 off for a Galvanised one - I didn't bother calling them back.
The Guys are right, a Mans Shed is never big enough. My suggestion is get Yourself a piece of paper and draw Your Shed outline in Scale on it. Then Work out what You are going to put and where You are going to put things in Your Shed.

[bollie7]

They are like anything else. If you want quality it costs. At the last place I lived I had a 16m X 8m X 2.7H (walls) Garage World shed. Garage World - Shed Boss (http://www.garageworld.com.au/)
Great quality, extremely well made, but one of the more expensive brands. They use gal brackets set in the concrete during pouring for hold downs. Not dyna bolts. They also design the shed so the ends of the wall sheets interlock at the corners. Theres not need for a special flashing. I have no affiliation with the company, just a very satisfied customer.
What ever you build seriously think of insulating it during construction. Its well worth the money. Mine had aircell insulation, both walls and roof. Aircell - Fibre free insulation products - Glareshield, Retroshield, Permifloor, Permishield, Insulaire, Insulbreak (http://www.air-cell.com.au/pages/products.htm) Makes a big difference.

bollie7

[eskimo]

I'm with Bryan on this

think of a good size and double it

I was told that "this is the space you've got" so I have a 7.5x6x3 and its full...wood lathe, mill, 1 - 1.2x.7 reloading bench, 1 - 2.5 x .9 work bench, 1 - 1.3x.75 work bench, brownbuilt shelving across back end, pedestal drill, bandsaw, fridge, spare fridge, freezer, antique furniture for future restoration occupies approx 2sq metres, another small shelving system, small saw bench, workshop tool trolley, compound mitre saw bench, ammo cupboard, 3draw filing cabinet, G size oxy trolley, 90l aircompressor, lawn mower, kids bikes........and a I have yet to put in the metal lathe (thats in the garage still in its box..hahaha)

and I hav'nt even mentioned the 1sq metre area for her junk

now wishing I had used up the area behind the shed (approx another 2 metres) when I had it built and installed.

You cant have too much room.

there are some other benefits such as less gardening stuff to attend to, increased area for stormwater harvesting, bigger area to get lost/hide in ..etc etc

[HavinaGo]

About 10 years ago
7.6 x 3.6, then added a 1.2m veranda down one side

Side double entry doors - veranda means one does not get wet getting in an out :), also means the messy/smelly jobs can be done outside
4 windows

nominally 2.7 high but the guys put it up too close to the ground so when I poured the floor lost 100mm of height. (I knew I wanted the floor 6" above natural ground level due to flooding! - They put it up while work had me in another state)

Good build other than that - True Steel Pre engineered steel building, Steel garage, Horse stable, Farm shed (http://www.trusteel.com.au/)

:2tsup: A MUST is a waterproof membrane under the concrete :2tsup:

For me - insulation (foil and fibre glass in walls and ceiling) and Plasterboard lining (on minimal framing) tied to the steel has been worth the effort. (- no rust, habitable all year.)

Not big enough! :wink:

[timbo123]

I am supprised .
Here we are on a metelworking forum and no one is talking about making up their own kit... Last carport I built (6x9m) cost me around 2K plus concrete (from memory) and a week on the arc welder.... Mind you council permits ar a :C to get (thats why I don't worry about them)......:;
However this sitting next to my 6X9 shed gives a good roof space the next plan is to double the shed with another one...

[Anorak Bob]

I built this twenty years ago when I was less lazy than I am now. It's 7 x 4.5 metres and far too small. At the time I had a bench and a box of planes and thought that it was just fine. The open eaves allow the moisture to blow in and coat everything in rust. I need to pull my finger out and install a ceiling. Two mills, two lathes, and twenty years of accumulated junk are going to make that tricky.

Ken, whatever you do at least insulate it. You'll weep when you see the ways on that AR red with rust if you dont.

Big's Better
Bob

[lightwood]

It's unbelievable, but I have never had a proper workshop, so now it's time.

I reckon something about 6m x 3m or so, would do it, with a hipped roof.

So far I have had one quote of $5000 for the shed, and $2000 for the slab.
This was based on a size of 6.1m x 3.5m in colorbond with two windows in one end, two doors in one side, and two skylights. A proper rhs frame was incorporated in it's construction. The above quote also includes erection.

What brand of shed have you got, and are you happy with it? Were you able to erect it yourself? An indication of cost would also be appreciated.

Ken
Ken,
Under no circumstances purchase a shed from #### #######, particularly the Bayswater VIC office.
Absolutely one of the worst experiences after the Feb 2009 fires.
It started out by them delivering the wrong shed, with the wrong steel cross section a few days before we had 6 volunteers to help. ( and getting BS sales talk asserting what they delivered was somehow better...when they were contracted to use RHS ??)
Late on a Wednesday...having the clown refuse to turn around and open the filing cabinet to check a copy of the original contract....so we had to drive to Flowerdale and return on the Thursday morning to prove THEIR stuff up and make them deliver enough material for the Friday morning when we had part of the team who had taken 2 days off work to help. These were professional construction workers, and they were walking around shaking their heads.
And after that it went from bad to worse....
Just don't bother with them.
Regards,
Peter

Business name edited out by Administration. Why? - READ THIS (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f90/while-youre-read-too-33200/)

[Big Shed]

I have a Safety Steel Structures shed, the 100x50 RHS version. Excellent shed, been up now just over 10 years and no issues at all.

It is a decent size (we live on 25 acres) 48x25 (14.4x7.4m) and it has 10ft/3m walls.

As we didn't live here yet at the time we had it put up for us by a local contractor.

[kwijibo99]

G'day Peter,
Still a nice looking shed despite all the screwing around.
I'm looking to build something similar on our block in Maldon, Vic and was just wondering if you could give us an idea of the size and cost of your shed including the slab?
Cheers,
Greg.

[BenM78]

My old boy has a 12x9 Ranbuild. Brillant shed. My current shed is a 9x4.5 Stramit (I think) and could do with being twice as wide and half again as long :P

Remember, spending a little more no will save in the long run cos it's bloody hard to convert a shed into a bigger one!

Oh yeah, I shortened a shed once.... It was timber framed and It was a metre too long and I couldn't get a car into the backyard - by shortening it I opened up about 1000square metres of backyard!

[.RC.]

I have put up a couple of those pre-fab sheds in the larger sizes, (60ftX100ft) and they all had missing parts or wrong parts...

[lightwood]

G'day Peter,
Still a nice looking shed despite all the screwing around.
I'm looking to build something similar on our block in Maldon, Vic and was just wondering if you could give us an idea of the size and cost of your shed including the slab?
Cheers,
Greg.
Greg,
the shed including the carport at the front
12 x 25 m
Approx $6000 for the slab and $28,000 for the shed
The slab was 6 inch min. we built a 3 bedroom house in the front of the shed, and it needed a cert of occupancy before the end of June 2009. So all legal and insurable and home builders grant money...but that's another story.
Peter

[lightwood]

I have put up a couple of those pre-fab sheds in the larger sizes, (60ftX100ft) and they all had missing parts or wrong parts...
RC.
that is the universal opinion from anyone I've spoken to about our experience.
One memorable conversation went like this....

These two pieces of steel for the doors need to be the same cross-section.

Yes?

well they aren't...

Yes they are!

NO, they are not... LOOK AT THESE PHOTO'S

I don't need to look, I know they are....I delivered them.

PLEASE.... JUST LOOK AT THE PHOTO

NO!

I'm going outside for a few minutes and when I come back please change your absurd attitude....

Well she didn't, until about one hour passed of having a 3 year old crying and screaming in her showroom. God bless the little one!
Peter

[Vernonv]

I built my own 7.5 x 12 shed with a 3 x 12 awning down one side. It was based on standard portal frame design and is fully council approved. Cost about $6000 not including the slab.

The only "difficult" bit was making up the knee and apex brackets (required welding).

[neksmerj]

Gentlemen,

Thank you for all your comments. It seems that the price I was quoted, $5000, is fair and reasonable, for a steel framed shed. Of course there are sheds available for less than half that price, without framework. The one thing that came through loud and clear, is go for the biggest, and insulate it. In my case, 6.1m x 3.5m is the biggest I can have in the available area.

I reckon I can get a slab poured for less than $2000, especially if I can get half a dozen sober mates in. Can't verify their sobriety afterwards.

Again, thanks,

Ken

[timbo123]

I reckon I can get a slab poured for less than $2000, especially if I can get half a dozen sober mates in. Can't verify their sobriety afterwards.




YEAH... especially if you do it your self that is only like 2.5 m (excluding footings) of concrete so should be easy under 1k (mind you been a while since I did some concreting but should be able to get a m for around $200) Just make sure you put the black plastic up the walls to stop corrosion - if your pooring the slab after the shed is up - that is...

[Gate_Keeper]

Gentlemen,

Thank you for all your comments. It seems that the price I was quoted, $5000, is fair and reasonable, for a steel framed shed. Of course there are sheds available for less than half that price, without framework. The one thing that came through loud and clear, is go for the biggest, and insulate it. In my case, 6.1m x 3.5m is the biggest I can have in the available area.

I reckon I can get a slab poured for less than $2000, especially if I can get half a dozen sober mates in. Can't verify their sobriety afterwards.

Again, thanks,

Ken

Hi found this while googling sheds, if you dont mind me asking what was the kit price?
I have found one similar size for $3600 with just a roll-a-door.

That one is from company called fielders has anyone heard of them juz worried they will take the money and run b4 it is delivered. I got a quote from ranbuild at penrith that was $3950 but was warned they use really thin roof sheets but i do get a fridge with it :U

[eskimo]

fielders

yep...been around for ages........at least 30yrs

[Big Shed]

Hi found this while googling sheds, if you dont mind me asking what was the kit price?
I have found one similar size for $3600 with just a roll-a-door.

That one is from company called fielders has anyone heard of them juz worried they will take the money and run b4 it is delivered. I got a quote from ranbuild at penrith that was $3950 but was warned they use really thin roof sheets but i do get a fridge with it :U

Fielders is part of the Hills Group (ie Hills hoist etc), good quality shed. Son in Adelaide (who works for Hills) has a Fielders shed (surprise:rolleyes:) and it is quite a nice shed.

At least they're not likely to "take your money and run"

[Gate_Keeper]

Thanks for that i'll add them to the plus list

If i can ask one more question what does bmt and tct mean
The fielders dealers site had roof 0.42bmt and wall 0.35bmt but the ranbuilt quote says roof and wall sheets are 0.40tct is it different standards? I thought if they both use colourbond it would be the same.

[Big Shed]

No idea, sorry:no: I'm guessing it is the gauge of the steel being used, Colorbond only refers to the finish.

[pipeclay]

BMT refers to thickness before painting and TCT is after painting.
Painting is .05mm thick.
The Ranbuilt shed would be .35 BMT with painting making it .4 TCT.

[Graziano]

I was limited to 9mx5m so I went up to the maximum height limit of 4.8m and added a mezzanine after it was approved to double the floorspace, the ceiling up top is a bit low but quite usable:2tsup:. I you do concrete block like I did it worked out to be roughly $10 per block for the blocks, laying,steel reo and concrete core fill so a 4m tall by 8m long wall in block would set you back about (4m/0.2m) x (8m/0.4m) x $10= $4000. Total all up cost was $17000 with me doing all work except block laying and slab but I now have somewhere to sit out the next cyclone.

[Gate_Keeper]

BMT refers to thickness before painting and TCT is after painting.
Painting is .05mm thick.
The Ranbuilt shed would be .35 BMT with painting making it .4 TCT.

Thanks for that I didn't realise the sheets was so thin

[Ross]

Gate Keeper

Put Tri Steel on your list, they are out your way and I am very happy with the shed they built for me.

Ross

[fozz]

Peter, thats not a shed, that a damn aircraft hanger !!!!!!!! :)

goes off grumbling to his big 10x4 SHED!!!!

[Yonnee]

I'll put another tick for Safety Steel Structures. I built my first 6M x 7.5M purchased from them over 10 years ago, RHS frame, 9' walls, skylights. When we built our new home in our current location, I didn't even bother looking elsewhere for the current shed. This time, a 12M x 7.5M with 10' walls and sliding doors on the side. Because I wanted the door opening at one end rather than the middle, I paid for extra track so that the doors covering bay 1 and 2 both slide back across bay 3.

140866

But when the shed was being delivered, I realised I hadn't deleted the column in the middle of the door opening!!:doh:140871


So I consulted Safety Steel's engineer and set about fabricating a beam to span the doorway/
140870


But ultimately, as has been said before, it was never big enough, and my shed became too small with the latest purchase...
140869

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[Just George]

I got a Titan 9m(long) x 6m(wide) x 2.7m(high) built in december just before xmas. Installed it cost me around $13000. In January I had power installed in it. It is my haven(away from swmbo when I am in the (POO), it is my workshop where I do side jobs and where I get to think CLEARLY.

IF you get a Titan, get it written in the contract that THEY return your surrounding lawn to how it was BEFORE THEY SCREWED IT UP. I failed to do this and will spend the next year or so fixing it or many hundreds of $...

[Tom the Tin Man]

Okay you blokes, just a bit of clarification on some terms.
BMT= Base Metal Thickness. Pipeclay said it earlier and is correct; it's the thickness of the steel before either painting or electroplating occurs.
TCT= Total Coated Thickness. Thickness of cladding after electroplating or painting has been done.

Gate_Keeper, I hope you went with the Fielders shed. If what you say is correct, that Ranbuild are using .40TCT material for both roof and wall cladding, then in my view and understanding of things they are using roof cladding which does NOT comply with Australian building standards.

If anyone has recently purchased a shed from any company who quoted based on the use of .40 TCT roof cladding, could you please look through the set of plans which bears your local council's 'Approved' stamp.

If your council approved it, they are wrong in their assessment and must be held to account.
If however the plans specify .47TCT roof cladding but were supplied as .40TCT at the behest of the customer for a reduction in price, then both the company and the customer are at fault.
Council Building Inspectors are not known for using a micrometer on cladding as an everyday occurance. Due to the out-sourcing of inspection services, the council has limited it's own liability in this regard.

How do I know this? I've been roll-forming the stuff for the past decade and also have several years of steel detailing/quantity surveying experience for a large manufacturer of sheds and shed building components.

While we're at it, don't assume that because you buy stuff from Bluescope or it's agents that you will be buying Bluescope products.:no: The mob I work for supply several branches of Bluescope, Onesteel and Surdex in both Vic. and NSW with cladding, purlins, angle, mesh and other products.
Much of the raw material is actually imported from places like China, Korea and in the case of coloured cladding, New Zealand.

It's up to the end user to stipulate which material is required but most buy on price so unless your surname is Rockefeller, patriotism is something that most people just cannot afford anymore.

[neksmerj]

Tom,

I have sent you an email seeking advice.

Ken

[neksmerj]

This arvo, I had a look at a kit shed over in Thomastown. I won't mention any names.

It was approx 6m x 3.6m. The galv bolted up framework was good quality, with cold rolled C-section girts and purlins. What let the whole thing down was the dreadful fit of the cladding, especially around windows and doors. Where the gable end capping met the guttering was like a dogs breakfast.

Are all kit sheds like this, or am I expecting too much?

I'm almost tempted to erect a timber frame, and clad the sides with vertical boards.

Would a timber shed work out much dearer than a metal one?

Ken

[bollie7]

Ken
I can't tell you about prices re metal vs timber but I can recomment GarageWorld for a metal shed.
I had one at my last place and it was great. Very well finished and put together.
In fact I hope to be building another shed later this year and it will be a Garage World one again. They are a little bit more expensive than some of the others but I reckon the better quality is worth it.
The new one I'm planning is 12m X 7.2 X 2.4h ( I might price out 2.7h as I get closer to the time)
From Garage World Newcastle I was quoted approx $27600. That was for everything except council fees. Including one 2.7 wide roller door and one 2.4w roller door, vermin flashing and aircell insulation to walls and roof. This was for them to do the lot.
I've had a couple of other prices and GW was still only about $2K more expensive. For the extra you get gal brackets fitted to the slab when its poured (rather than the frame dynabolted down) their, you beaut joints on the frame. They use .42bmt thick sheets for both roof and walls. The other quotes I got used .35bmt for the wall sheets.
GW also works out the lengths and widths so that the end sheets of the walls overlap rather than have to have a flashing. Looks very neat.
I have no connection to the company except as a satisfied customer.

hope this helps

bollie7

[BobL]

Are all kit sheds like this, or am I expecting too much?
This is not always the kit but the ning-nong who puts the kit together.


I'm almost tempted to erect a timber frame, and clad the sides with vertical boards.

Would a timber shed work out much dearer than a metal one?

It depends what timber you use and what your council will permit.

For me the prime issue was termites and secondly not wanting anything to go into battle with my council.

[banjoping]

This arvo, I had a look at a kit shed over in Thomastown. I won't mention any names.

It was approx 6m x 3.6m. The galv bolted up framework was good quality, with cold rolled C-section girts and purlins. What let the whole thing down was the dreadful fit of the cladding, especially around windows and doors. Where the gable end capping met the guttering was like a dogs breakfast.

Are all kit sheds like this, or am I expecting too much?

I'm almost tempted to erect a timber frame, and clad the sides with vertical boards.

Would a timber shed work out much dearer than a metal one?

Ken

Be careful, the quality of the sheet can vary by rollforming business. That is, some manufacturers with older machinery and less "committment" to quality tend to produce sheeting that has variance greater than what other suppliers will produce.

Sometimes, if it becomes a problem you can get pronounced issues lapping the sheet neatly.

The quality of finishing around windows is really a function of the skill of the installer, assuming all the correct flashings are supplied. A good shed supplier who knows what they are doing will custom order the windows usually in multiples of the effecitve cover of the sheets to make it easy for the DIY'er. This makes slotting the windows between laps simple, and minimises the vertical "slitting" of the sheets, which can get messy if not done neatly.

It is also important that the windows are ordered correctly- and are "face fit". This gives and external flange to screw the window into the sheets, and makes flashing and sealing much easier.

Likewise, tophat or wall girt spacings should be desinged and ordered such that the tophat forms a footer and header for the windows, and ensures that the windows will not fall out, or rattle in winds.

The gable end capping (or the barge capping) should extend past the end of the roof sheets and be cut on an angle to enclose and hide the end caps of the gutter for neatness.

[damian]

Couple of extra points.

I am not keen on windows. Skylights are fine but the windows they put in the kits are easy to break into. They also allow prying eyes to see what you've got. This cost me a ducati about 6 years ago, lucky they didn't take anything more than they did. Remember this is a work shop and storage not a lounge room.

I built a 9 X 7.5 adro 15 years ago. Cost me $9k then. Very happy with it. Biggest I could fit, now it's full and I'm about to spend easter trying to restore some order.

3 m walls make it feel more spacious, add signifigant storage height and on hot days keep the roof further from you. Insulation is dead cheap right now thanks to our fearless leaders. Pack in some fiberglass and line it with whatever you can get cheap. You will thank me for it later. Also seriously consider getting it wired. I haven't and have always wanted to. The extension cords are a constant nuisance.

I'd go portal frame over space frame anyday.

I used chemsets (these come in different pull out strengths) and am very happy with them. YMMV.

A mate was awfully proud of his 10x20x4.9 until my partners dad built a 18x36x4.9. It's got a 3m eve down one 36m side that covers more area than my shed :D

And yes they are both full....

[RETIRED]

3 m walls make it feel more spacious, add signifigant storage height and on hot days keep the roof further from you.and you can manoeuvre 8x4 sheets around easily.:cool:

[banjoping]

Couple of extra points.

I am not keen on windows. Skylights are fine but the windows they put in the kits are easy to break into. They also allow prying eyes to see what you've got. This cost me a ducati about 6 years ago, lucky they didn't take anything more than they did. Remember this is a work shop and storage not a lounge room.

I built a 9 X 7.5 adro 15 years ago. Cost me $9k then. Very happy with it. Biggest I could fit, now it's full and I'm about to spend easter trying to restore some order.

3 m walls make it feel more spacious, add signifigant storage height and on hot days keep the roof further from you. Insulation is dead cheap right now thanks to our fearless leaders. Pack in some fiberglass and line it with whatever you can get cheap. You will thank me for it later. Also seriously consider getting it wired. I haven't and have always wanted to. The extension cords are a constant nuisance.

I'd go portal frame over space frame anyday.

I used chemsets (these come in different pull out strengths) and am very happy with them. YMMV.

A mate was awfully proud of his 10x20x4.9 until my partners dad built a 18x36x4.9. It's got a 3m eve down one 36m side that covers more area than my shed :D

And yes they are both full....

If people want to get into a shed- they will. Even easier than breaking in through a window is the hex head attachment on a screwdriver. Just back the teks out and peel the sheet back. The fact is metal clad sheds are simply cover, and nothing valuable should be stored inside without significant further security.

Lining them is one way to give your shed a bit more security but again most rollerdoors can be opened with a screwdriver or a bump key so unless you bolt down whatever is valuable inside it will walk.

Skylights are terrible heat creators and insulation destroyers. If you MUST have them, use a silver pearl or the most heat restricive you can find.

[BobL]

If people want to get into a shed- they will. Even easier than breaking in through a window is the hex head attachment on a screwdriver. Just back the teks out and peel the sheet back. The fact is metal clad sheds are simply cover, and nothing valuable should be stored inside without significant further security.

Lining them is one way to give your shed a bit more security but again most rollerdoors can be opened with a screwdriver or a bump key so unless you bolt down whatever is valuable inside it will walk.

Bolting and chaining things down is one thing but don't forget to hide tools like your angle grinders and bolt cutters :D

Unfortunately lining is no obstacle if it's just rockwool bats and gyprock. I now really wish I had done all of my insides with the miniorb instead of half miniorb and half gyprock.

One thing I learned a long time ago is to lock the door of anything so it cannot be from either side.

[damian]

That's true but it takes longer to unscrew a panel than it does to snap one of those aluminum casement windows open. As I said it also invites prying eyes.

It is easy to be wise at a distance. I suppose if I'd had it chained up and they brought bolt cutters then it would still be my fault for being so stupid not to have a guard dog.

If our police could be bothered chasing theft instead of just raising taxes and the courts put the mongrels in jail instead of feeling sorry for their hard lives then maybe that would have saved my bike also.