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Paul39
18th July 2010, 10:57 AM
I made a weed pot from spalted, bug holed maple, sanded and finished it with several coats of Tung oil rubbed in while on the lathe. I left the ends on it to remouut and add finish.

Today I gave it a last polish and prepared to cut off the ends. I noticed some powder in one of the bug holes which leads me to believe that there are some live bugs in there.

I know microwaving will kill them. I would rather not ruin the finish.

Has anyone had experience with nucing bugs in a finished piece?

Any other suggestions?

Ed Reiss
18th July 2010, 11:56 AM
nuking it shouldn't hurt the finish Paul...as long as it's dry and you don't leave it on high setting for an hour:doh::o.

Hmmmm...powder, huh? Could be powder post beetles, ya' don't want those critters getting into your turning stock.

Manuka Jock
18th July 2010, 01:18 PM
Its a weed pot so you could use insectacide :D

Claw Hama
18th July 2010, 01:34 PM
Light nuking sounds the go to keep your finish. Without the finish I often inject acetone (with a suringe) into any bug holes, a good dose to flood their little hidy hole. Doesn't discolour or damage the timber, dries almost instantly and no nasty side affects affects affects affe aff........:U

turnerted
18th July 2010, 05:37 PM
Why don't you put it in the deep freeze for a few days . That should kill the little critters and not ruin your finish . Probably best to wipe off any condensation asap when thawing it .
Ted

Scott
18th July 2010, 09:34 PM
As per turnerted, I put my smaller pieces in the freezer for a week or so. Saying that, my wife's cooking is that bad, I wouldn't be surprised at chowing down to a lump of redgum!

murray44
18th July 2010, 09:41 PM
Yep, I know freezing works for some bugs, not sure if it works for all bugs though.

joe greiner
18th July 2010, 10:50 PM
Carbon monoxide works against most critters, but best done before woodworking.

Put the wood in a tent, or a paper bag. Run a hose from truck or lawn mower exhaust, and leave idling for about an hour. The tent or bag should have enough leaks to prevent damage to the engine.

Cheers,
Joe

Paul39
19th July 2010, 09:31 AM
Thanks to all of you. Several good suggestions.

I went with microwaving. Old, no turntable, around 500 watt mw.

I did 4 15 second jolts turning end for end and inverting the pot / vase which was on its side. This got it quite warm to the touch. Then 2 30 second jolts turning end for end. This got it about the heat of a baked potato just out of the oven.

Went to the shop and finished a bunch of tops and bottoms and came up for supper. Gave it another 2 30 second jolts, turning as before. Again, hot potato.

Finish is not changed, maybe a bit slicker than when I started.

The bugs are powder post beetles. I had, maybe still have, them in the house timbers, and have them in the standing dead maple tree, and most of the wood I drag home to burn.

Years ago I painted the house timbers with Lindane, since banned.

techgirl
19th July 2010, 12:49 PM
my mother used to trade traditional aboriginal carvings, which would be infested with bugs. she's either give it a coat with eucaliptus oil or stick it in a plastic box with a smoldering packet of cigarettes for a few hours.

Manuka Jock
19th July 2010, 01:15 PM
Paul ,
check this out , from the Australian Museum



3. Treatment of Infestations

If an item is found to be infested, it can be put in a sealed plastic bag so other objects are protected.
The Australian Museum for example treats all objects as they arrive into the Museum with low oxygen, freezing or nitrogen gas flushing. It does not use any chemical fumigant.
Freezing for smaller items (or large ones if a commercial freezer is accessible) seems to be an effective and safe way to handle artifacts that have already been infested by borers. The process will kill borer at all life stages including termites, moths, beetles, their eggs and lavae. It is useful to remember that freezing will kill the infestation but will not prevent further attack. Canvas, seeds, hair, wood, bark, feathers, fibre, leather and textiles can all be treated by freezing, but caution needs to be exercised on items which become brittle with freezing, such as shell, resin and glass.
Freezing paintings on canvas is not normally recommended by museums because of the slight potential for the paint to crack. However, if harmful live insects are found, then this is the easiest way to get rid of the problem.

The technique described below has been used at the Australian Museum and other institutions for many years. It provides an efficient and inexpensive alternative to toxic fumigants.
The object to be treated is bagged in plastic. (Garbage bags will do so long as they do not have any holes in them)
As much air as possible is taken out of the bag.
The bag is closed with water proof tape or a heat-sealer (if available).
The bagged object is then placed in the freezer for 7 days at -20°C.
The bagged object is removed from the freezer and allowed to thaw in the bag
The object is taken out of the bag a day after it has come out of the freezer. This is to make sure the object has reached room temperature while it is still in a plastic bag.
Colin Macgregor (http://australianmuseum.net.au/staff/colin-macgregor) , Manager, Materials Conservation
Last Updated: 16 March 2010

How do I prevent insects damaging my artworks? - Australian Museum (http://australianmuseum.net.au/How-do-I-prevent-insects-damaging-my-artworks)