Flathead

[labr@]

This is my first attempt at a cedar strip kayak. I use the term kayak loosely here as this one has a transom instead of a pointed stern. My S&G Lake is a general purpose boat but this one I wanted more for fishing so stability has taken priority over low drag. The design software (Kayak Foundry) rates it at a stability factor of 130 which translates into everyday language as huge. It would not be everyone's cup of tea and there are still flaws with the design but it reached a point where it seemed the extra effort of seeking advice on minor issues and then making changes was not worth the results and could drag on forever. Plan is to incorporate a simplified flathead design into the deck so at this stage it’s called Flathead.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1958/1planprofileoutlinedwgs.jpg

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9282/2offsetoutlinedrawings.jpg

It took some time to print the form patterns and stick them together due to being limited to an A4 printer.
Eventually they were all stuck on 12 mm chipboard and cutting out was started. The old B&D jigsaw gave up after about the 3rd form and with the coffers a bit low it was back to hand sawing. My Z Saw came in very handy for this. It will not do tight curves but the degree of curve it can do is surprising.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/7514/3cutformsandsaw.jpg

The strongback is a type used and shown by some people on the Blue Heron site and consists of 2 planks screwed together at the ends and spread in the middle by a crossmember. I used 19mm by 140mm pine and it seems fine so far as it is rigid, light enough and was easy/quick to make. Supports for the forms were cut from recycled cupboards. The set up is very rough compared to some but it all seems to work.

Lining up the forms took just short of forever and may not have been acceptable to some people but I really think they were very close – I guess the final result will tell. Borrowed my son’s old laser pointer to help with the line up.

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/1491/4aligningformswithlaser.jpg

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/9031/5formsaligned.jpg

The inner stem is also shown on that photo. It was laminated out of reclaimed timber shutter slats and is a lot smaller than I see on most other build logs.

My cedar is recycled as well and the planks are about 30mm thick so it is necessary to split the strips for most of the stripping. I don’t have a table saw and want to keep kerf width to a minimum so have been trying various tools including a Bosch multi saw and then a knife. It was too hard to keep the size even enough so it is back to the Z saw with a very ugly jig to keep the cut central and then a trim with a block plane.

Shear strips were pinned using map pins. These are very thin and the hope is that the holes will close up completely when the hull is wetted down.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/7590/6pinnedshearstrip.jpg

[labr@]

The shear strips were scarfed but most of the remaining joints will just be butted.
Fishing line is used by some people to help hold strips in place so am giving it a try. This is the reason for the random small holes in the forms. It digs in at the strip edges a bit but this is probably going to largely disappear with wetting and sanding (I hope).

Bevelling the strips is easy for the first few – not sure about later.

Can’t have too many clamps doing this. The bigger ones were good at this stage but will need other holding methods for when there are more strips.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4566/7bowfirstfewstrips.jpg

The curve at the stern is tighter than expected and needs quite a bit of bevelling and twisting.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1712/8sternfirstfewstrips.jpg

Had an unnoticed slip of one strip while gluing and this left a gap of about 5mm where there should have been a tight butt joint. The end of one of the strips had a deep scratch in it anyway so I cut out a section about 50mm long and inserted a patch. Had worked out how to use rubber bands for holding strips by this time.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2672/9patch.jpg

[m2c1Iw]

Cool :2tsup:, couple of unedjumacated comments/question.

Strips seems thicker than I expected?

I reckon you could also do it half strip for the curvy bits and ply on the bottom with that design say a third up the stem even 6mm looks like it would take the twist OK, perhaps?

What glue?

[labr@]

Mike,

The strips probably look thick because they are only 15mm wide - in fact a couple in there are just over 10. They are 5 - 5.5mm thick with that variation being due to cutting them with a hand held circular saw run along a straight edge :o. Yes, I know I'm a wally but if I waited until someone I know could do them properly on a table saw then this thing would never be built.

Glue is exterior PVA. There are various opinions on this but I've seen people succeed with it and formed my own opinion which I will now stick with :D.

As for ply/strip hybrid construction I like the idea and was originally going to do a stitch and glue design with a strip deck. Then I stumbled on a quantity of WRC and the Kayak Foundry software so ended up with this. A number of people are now doing what they call strip, stitch and glue - which is basically using S & G plans but making stripped panels instead of using ply. They look really good and can be economical if you have a source of cheap timber eg recycled.

[labr@]

Two steps forward, 1 step back……

Had a limited time to glue a strip on the other night as I had to go and pick up my daughter later in the evening. This led to rushing things just a bit but managed to get the strip on OK and left it to set. The end at the stern didn’t seem to sit as well as it did in the dry run and further along it wasn’t as tight against the forms as expected. Viewing from the stern the next day it was apparent I had put the strip on upside down! :doh:Considering all the trimming and bevelling done with the block plane to make it sit right it should not have attached at all up the other way but I guess the rubber bands are good at compensating for a crappy fit.

So last night it was out with the heat gun and remove that strip, clean up the faces and reglue. Thankfully it was not a full length strip so the bow section was still OK. It seemed to go back on all right – certainly the fit was better right at the stern – but will have to wait and see how it looks when the clamps are removed.

One thing I’ve learnt this week is that this building method allows fairly easy changes/repairs.

http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2474/10stripwrongway480x360.jpg

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/9274/11removingstrip480x360.jpg

On the positive side the bow is looking fairly good.

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/7472/12bow21710480x360.jpg

[b.o.a.t.]

Looking good Bob.
How does it feel, putting together your own creation?
AJ

[labr@]

Looking good Bob.
How does it feel, putting together your own creation?
AJ

Like :D. Quite a happy little rodent at the moment :U.

..... but (there's always a but) the anticipation is killing me. The software says it's what I want but there's no way of knowing what the built version will be like until it's on the water.

Are you going to the wood show this weekend?

[b.o.a.t.]

Working this w/e so not going anywhere pleasant or interesting.
There's a moratorium in force on new toys too, due to pending major works.
cheers
AJ

[labr@]

Progress is slow but I am trying to do something every day, no matter how small. The last strip put on the side was too difficult to get even close to the pinch in form 1 so the decision was taken not to worry about conforming to that form any further. Instead the stripping will now start from the keel. There is some doubt about how well these strips will meet the ones already laid in the bow area. They may connect smoothly or it may end up as a semi chine effect. Either is acceptable to me as long as it’s strong enough and functional.
The strips along the keel are 30mm wide and the first one was surprisingly easy to bend and twist with a heat gun. The edge was bevelled with the block plane up to where the twist starts to get serious. The plan was to saw straight down through the overhang after the strip was glued to the inner stem.

This didn’t end up perfect but is acceptable. The strip on the other side was bevelled to fit the first and glued up.

http://a.imageshack.us/img829/4569/14firstkeelstriptrimmed.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img840/4993/15bothkeelstrips.jpg

[anewhouse]

As one of the people who delayed your start by commenting on the design, I guess I should offer some words of encouragement. :)

ignore anyone who has doubts about whether you have chosen the right glue. You are using the same stuff that thousands of people have successfully used to create strip built kayaks. Yachts are a different story.

I am prepared to bet that even you will not be able to find those holes made by the map pins. An iron and a damp cloth will make them virtually invisible.

As I'm sure you have realised, putting those straight strips on the bottom of the hull is much quicker and simpler that the ones than have to bend sideways. They are also easier to clamp in place.

Did you try a few short sacrificial strips to protect the edge of the strips from the fishing line?

One of the many good things about strip built kayaks is that you can use recycled timber that would be unsuitable for most other applications. The deck of my current kayak is made from WRC lining boards I ripped off my daughter's bathroom wall when I helped renovate the house. The kayak is for her husband, so he is getting his bathroom wall back as a kayak. :)

It looks as if things are going well.

Some others who saw your design on the Kayak Foundry forum, I'm sure would be interested to see photos of the finished product.

[labr@]

Thanks for the kind words Allan. I will put a single post summary of the build on KFF with some pics when finished and probably a post in the Launchings forum too. There are some very skilfull and knowledgable builders over there. (Especially that bloke from Tuross Head :wink:)

Continued with stripping from the centre to meet the side walls. The first 2 strips on each side were left a bit long when gluing so rubber bands could be hooked over the ends. They were trimmed after the glue set. It’s looking more like there will be a sudden change of angle at some point as the bow widens out.

http://a.imageshack.us/img508/4588/17bow31710.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img833/6497/18stern31710.jpg

[labr@]

Have been slowly continuing the stripping from the keel line. Some of the mitre joints are not as close as I would like. It is very difficult to hold everything in place while test fitting and trimming. May end up putting a filler strip in later.

Also discovered that the keel line strips are out at the stern by about 5mm. This will not affect the shape of the hull by much if any but will show up when the skeg is added.

http://a.imageshack.us/img821/1319/19bow6810.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img839/192/20stern6810.jpg

[PAR]

Bob, where the bottom strips meet the topside strips, it's common to have a "shutter plank" (strip). The last topside strip is not glued, but just tacked and is considered sacrificial. The bottom planks are brought down to it, then the shutter is removed. A batten is setup so you can run a router with a straight bit down the bottom planks, which makes a continuous, smooth cut. Next a new, spiled shutter is installed.

This may be too late for you, but you could do similar with the batten and router and plow out a 12 mm (or so) gap at the topside/bottom strip interface and fit in a "cheater", maybe one with a darker or light species wood to accent the intersection. You've probably all ready thought of this.

[labr@]

Par,

Thanks for the reply - some good thoughts in there. I had considered using a jarrah filler strip but the jarrah I have is only 1 meter long. How would I go trying to insert this in such short lengths? The joints in the cedar are only average and they were done with the ability to clamp them in line. A filler strip may be harder to hold in place.

The idea of the router on a straight edge has some appeal but I am very wary of using a router on the hull even with a guide. Apart from being somewhat clumsy I am unsure about how good the result would be when following an edge that has bend in 2 directions as well as twist. Would be more inclined to use the pull saw and clean up the edge by hand - although that has it's own set of problems as well :rolleyes:.

[PAR]

You could scarf your Jarrah, but considering the cost of a couple of lengths, maybe better just to rip the edge off a plank long enough for the task.

I don't remember the adhesive you used, but if it's thickened epoxy, you'll be fine. If it's a PVA then you'll have needed considerable pressure along the joint surface during cure or you may have issues.

Working a router or a laminate trimmer which is much better as is a RotoZip or even a Dremel tool down a compound curve surface can be daunting. The way to make it work is to concentrate on one side only, as the place to bear the weight of the tool. On most boats this will be the topside planks. It's important to make each edge cut separately of course or the "wrong" side will rip out badly if you attempt a plunge and go type of cut. I usually make a foot for the tool so it has a bearing area on one side of the cut only, unlike a router that bears it's weight all around it's base. I would dread having to hand saw a shutter strip. I'd make a couple of dry run passes with which ever tool I elected to use (I'd use a laminate trimmer with a spiral straight bit) to insure I can handle the curves and the tool all the way.

[labr@]

Close to closing the hull sides now. Some areas look disappointingly rough but they should clean up to a reasonable finish. Every strip has its own problems with fitting and holding it in place so a new arrangement of rubber bands, clamps, fishing line, wedges etc is set up for each one. I am expecting the most trouble with the final strip on each side.

At least it is starting to look like a boat now and I am quite happy with the shape. Hope it looks as good up the other way.

http://a.imageshack.us/img413/1474/20bow20810.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img175/7914/21side20810.jpg

[labr@]

Finally closed the hull and have added the transom (still only rough trimmed). Was originally going to interlock the side strips with the transom but decided to just glue it on straight across. Last 3 days have been adding 1 strip of jarrah per day to the bow stem. One more to go then should be able to shape it.

http://a.imageshack.us/img838/2714/24firststemstrip.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img413/3811/25transomroughtrimmed.jpg

[labr@]

Outer stem now shaped and hull sanded all over. Had a lot of trouble with small low areas not cleaning up easily – probably due to not having consistent thickness of strips. Next time.............

Anyhow have decided it is smooth enough and now preparing to do the hull glassing. Bought some 3oz glass cloth from a net trader and although it was delivered quickly I am just a little disappointed because it does not drape as well as the 84g cloth I used last time. Shouldn’t complain too much because the price difference was considerable but it does show that better quality can cost more, and I suspect that this stuff will be an utter bitch to wet out properly due to the tight weave.

Going to let the cloth sit there for a week and give it a bit of a rub each day to help it conform.

This pic was a couple of weeks back when Ii wet the hull down before fine sanding.
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/7910/26wet20910reduced.jpg

This is from today with the glass draped over
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4018/27glassdraped101010redu.jpg

[b.o.a.t.]

Looking good Bob.
The stiffer fabric suggests a tighter weave.
Not necessarily a bad thing, just harder to work with in this application.
Look forward to seeing your posts.
AJ

[labr@]

Well I said it would be a bitch to wet out properly and it was. Had the heater going all day in the shed and warmed up the resin so it was reasonably runny but I think the cool weather compounded the problem. Last time I glassed a hull it was mid summer.

This is how it looked after I squeegeed and rolled as hard and as long as I dared. Creases from the folds in the cloth seemed to wet OK but the areas that look whitish had definitely not taken the resin onto all the fibres. The weave was very obvious in many patches, not just from the surface texture but from the colour under the surface.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7139/281stwetoutreduced.jpg

In short - not good enough, so the next evening it was out with the heat gun and the lot came off leaving this:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1671/29deglassedreduced.jpg

Not too bad but needed repairs in several small spots where the surface of the cedar pulled away. Had to go over the entire hull again with the sander but it was much better with my new Vacmaster wet and dry vacuum cleaner (birthday present) hooked up to the ROS.

So anyway I called in to AMC on the way home from work and bought some of their 84g glass again. It may be expensive but this is wonderful stuff and I don't think it's worth trying anything else now. It is a more open weave so is easier to wet out and conforms so well I may get away without having to cut at the bow. Stern will need cutting no matter what glass is used because of the transom.

So here we are ready to try again.

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/5271/30newglassdrapedreduced.jpg

.....and with about 30 degrees predicted for tomorrow I think it's going to happen soon :2tsup:

[labr@]

Decent glass, decent epoxy, a 30 degree day and a couple of hours to spare = recipe for successful wet out :cool:. Actually it only took about an hour and a half including clean up and all went well. Now just need to do a couple of fill coats and she can be flipped.

Some areas look dry in the photo but they are OK - the glass fibres are all wet but I squeegeed off more in some areas so the weave is more prominent.

There was no need to cut the glass at the bow (as expected) - just a cut in each rear corner.

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8223/312ndwetoutreduced.jpg

[PAR]

When you have a "process" and you stick to your procedures, it seems that an "epoxy run" does go quickly and the results surprisingly easy and good looking.

[labr@]

Par, your words are wise as usual. Sometimes we need to try something different to learn and advance - and sometimes what we learn is that a particular thing is not worth improving.

Unfortunately the fill coats didn't go all that well - I've never actually found a process for it that works for me. It always seems lumpy or ridged and the amount of sanding required then goes through to the glass in some areas. Hence it's been 2 weeks to this stage.

Anyhow it's now official - I've finally flipped! :U

The only drama was that after removing the screws from the forms I found that the hull would not lift. Turned out to be a broken drill bit going through a form and into the riser plate that the form was mounted on. Must have happened when putting the strongback together but I don't remember doing it :?. Just had to unscrew the riser and move it out then she came up. It's quite heavy with the forms inside.

http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/138/flipped61110p.jpg

If anyone has any tips on deck stripping now's the time :)

[labr@]

Deck shear strips are now on. These are tapered at the bow to achieve the curve and this this also helps with minimizing the bending required for the next few strips.

After the struggles with trying to keep the strips on the form while doing the hull I've decided that a few nail holes are going to be easier to fill than gaps left by poor joints. There are plenty of such gaps inside the hull and a lot of smoothing work before it can be glassed. Consequently the shear strips have been secured with nails and these will be used whenever there is any hint of a strip misbehaving.

The pics show the taper, nails with protective pads and the shear strips glued at the bow. The plan is to finish the tip in jarrah, preferably formed into a handle, and blending with the jarrah hull stem.

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6935/33sheartaper.jpg

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/7941/34sheartaper2.jpg

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7317/35shearsgluedatbow.jpg

[anewhouse]

That technique with nails and protective pads is exactly the way I hold the sheer strips and the occasional difficult strip.

When you remove them, use an iron and a damp cloth to swell the wood and they will be almost impossible to find.

[labr@]

That's good to know - 'cos if you do it then it means I'm on the right track :)

[labr@]

Glued strips for the centre of the deck - Jarrah flanked by a white wood from recycled blinds (don't know what it is but it works easily).

[labr@]

The centre strips seem to have glued up OK. Fit is quite acceptable although not perfect and that is very pleasing since they were sized with a hand plane.

Cut out a slot in the strips at the bow for the strips to sit in using saw and chisel. Needs to go just a bit deeper yet but it looks like it will sit in there fairly well. This area will be covered by a jarrah continuation of the stem so fit is not too critical but I want the joints in this area to be strong so minimal gaps are required.

Not sure whether to strip from the centre out, keeping the strips parallel or from the shear in with curves. Curves would probably look better but be more work.

[anewhouse]

Curves don't necessarily look better.

I like the look of the decks on some old wooden speedboats. Most of the deck consists of straight planks, often with a fine line between them, possibly caulking.

I have seen a similar effect on kayaks with what look like pinstripes of a contrasting timber between the strips. I like that look.

It is a lot easier to get good tight joints with straight strips and it is quite a bit quicker than working in from the outside.

On the other hand, the curved strips help accentuate the curved shape of the kayak.

Different people like different effects, which is just as well, otherwise we would all be paddling kayaks that looked the same. :)

I really like that look of your centre strip with the pale strips on both sides of the jarrah.

[labr@]

Thanks for your comments Allan. Thought it over for a bit then came up with the idea of straight strips with a slightly different area at the front separated from the rest by an "s" shaped pin stripe diverging from the centre line line around the cockpit until it is near the shear then going straight backward. (Sorry, it's hard to describe in words).

Have put on a few strips over the last week using the nail/pad method. I doubt that I will ever try stripping without nails or staples again - especially on hulls. Even if the holes are visible afterward it just doesn't seem worth the trouble messing around with all the other things I've tried.

Anyhow this is where it's at now and even stripping from the centre there will be lateral curve to cope with due to the compound curves created by the rise and fall of the deck in front of the cockpit.

[labr@]

Only 2 more strips each side and I can cut the front edge of the strip area in the S shape and then start stripping the front area. It's all going to be a bit more fiddly from here on but I think it will be worth it.

Starting to get impatient now because I can't wait to see how it will look sanded and wet out.

[labr@]

Well it's not been too hard since the last update. Managed to mark out the S shape using leftover fluteboard to make a template and then cut it with my flexible Z saw.

Selected some darker highly figured pieces of cedar for the fore deck area and it's coming up reasonably well so far. There will be 3 light coloured pin stripes on each side - the first one is on but doesn't show up all that well in the photos as the dark cedar is only on one side.

Joins at the ends of the strips are not being given too much attention as there will be a filler strip inserted later to tidy it all up. The filler strip should be both quicker and give a better finish. A lot more time was spent on the mitre joints I did on the hull and they mostly turned out average at best anyway.

[m2c1Iw]

Snazzy...............:2tsup:

[labr@]

Thanks Mike.

Deck is nearing the closing stage but I think it will need 4 pinstripes per side. This means the last one will be only about 1.5 strips from the edge but it's either that or have a large area wihout one and I think that will look odd.

[labr@]

Foredeck closed up. The spacing of the pin stripes seem to be OK (to me anyway).

S shaped stripe is also in on 1 side. Tried to cut the slot for this with a piece of hacksaw blade at first as I thought my Z saw was too big. It didn't go well though so tried the Z saw and it worked well. Sanding to final size was awkward and time consuming though. Will spend more time on marking out on the other side so will be able to cut closer to final size.

[labr@]

Deck strips and highlights all done, and started the jarrah stem piece for the bow. Need a few more laminations on this before it's complete.

Glued on the top half of the transom and rough trimmed the strips.

[labr@]

Cockpit is cut out, deck sanded (then filled,sanded,filled,sanded etc...) and finally glassed this morning. The deck is not perfect by any means but good enough for me on a first go. The colours have come up well and the pattern seems to fit with the curves.

It surprises me that the curves look fair (to my eye anyway) but when running a hand over the deck I can feel various humps/hollows - thought it would have been the other way round.

[labr@]

Well I've been a bit lax with the posts - can't believe it's nearly 3 weeks gone by.
The idea for the flathead pattern has been ditched - just can't bring myself to cut into the deck any more. Maybe next time.

Progress has been slow as it's now getting into the fiddly bits time. Took some time messing around with trying out bent strips vs short segments for the coaming and ended up with the short segments.

Have been doing a bit of interior smoothing and filling during that time as well but it is still quite a mess inside.

[b.o.a.t.]

Looks GREAT Bob.
AJ

[labr@]

Thanks AJ. It's taking longer than expected (as always :~) but there is still a good chance of an autumn launch before it gets really cold. If we can arrange a time I'd appreciate your having a test drive and giving comments on performance as you have experience with a much wider range of boats than I do. That would not change anything on this boat of course but could be useful for anyone thinking of a similar design using Kayak Foundry.

I have glassed inside the deck and hull now. Used the cheap glass for under the deck as it will not be seen. The wet out was easier than when I tried it on the hull but still took some effort. I suspect the main problem is the tightness of the weave. In the hull I had a few bubbles and some dry areas near the edges but nothing to worry about. The glass conformed really well with no need to cut at the corners.

Put some extra layers of glass under the deck in front of and behind the cockpit as these are likely to take more stress with fittings being added there and my weight being on the rear during entry/exit.

[labr@]

Finished the coaming a couple of weeks ago and been working toward joining the hull and deck since then.

Built a solid section in behind the bow using blocks of timber glued together and also put in locating strips for the bulheads.

Last night a litle epoxy was applied all round the edges then the two parts were taped together.
Today the inside seams were taped. Length of tape to use on each side seam was measured along the outside of the boat.

[labr@]

Really into the painfully slow fiddly bits now. Feathering the edges of glass tape is always a problem for me - just don't seem to have the technique right. It gets there in the end but takes weeks of epoxy application/sanding cycles.

Since the last post the outside glass has gone on the join and been filled a couple of times, the bow rope hole is done, the rear bulkhead is mostly done and the skeg is partially built up.

The bulkhead has a hatch so the structure on the back of the bulkhead is to provide a lip with a rubber seal for the hatch. Still to decide on a method of closure.

Also managed to squeeze in making a cockpit cover out of ripstop nylon to help keep the inside clean when not in use.

[labr@]

Al,ost at the stage where it can be put in the water now. Plan is to have a go to see how it behaves and then finish it off afterward.

Bulkhead hatch is set up with concealed bungee closure but I think this may have to be changed as it's too hard to use when that far back inside the hull (it's a good method for hatches on the deck). In keeping with the recycled timber theme the hooks for the bungees are made from prunings off one of my Mongolian Pear trees.

Installing the bulkhead was difficult because it is a fair way back from the cockpit. The easiest way to work on it was to put it upside down on the yak rack and stand under it with head in the cockpit.

Keel is finished - well the Mk1 version is anyway. I am half expecting to have to change it but hoping it will be OK as is.

It may get wet this weekend but plans for various things have ended up scuttled a few times lately so it's all doubtful.

[b.o.a.t.]

looking superb Bob
would love to be there when you wet her bottom.
AJ

[labr@]

Thanks AJ,

This afternoon doesn't look like it will happen - are you free tomorrow afternoon? I'm thinking Wearing St at about 2 or 3 ish would be good. Still not definite yet but if we set a time then I have a reason to stick to it.

[PAR]

Okay, you've had time to splash this puppy, how'd it work out?

[b.o.a.t.]

sheesh... someone's in a hurry !!
It's only Sat afternoon here yet.
Lots of weekend still to procrastinate over... :D
AJ

[b.o.a.t.]

Ok Bob
have got Management approval for 1400 Sun at Wearing Rd.
Surgeon has forbidden me lifting >2kg (and also sweeping or vacuuming or
mowing :2tsup: :hpydans2: ) so may be restricted to spectating & offering
'helpful' comments from the bank... :D
See you then
AJ

[labr@]

OK job's on for tomorrow :2tsup:. AJ don't forget the daylight saving change tonight - and if I'm late you'll know that I have!

Just a little bit longer PAR - you young blokes are just so impatient :U.

[b.o.a.t.]

we get an extra hour's sleep tonight.
If you don't turn up at all, I'll know you forgot & have been & gone again !!

don't forget... change your clock, change your smoke alarm batteries.
if they're more than 10 yrs old, change the whole smoke alarm. :wink:

cheers
AJ

[b.o.a.t.]

Hey PAR...
It's 0340 where you are - are you out of bed yet ?
Want to talk about techniques for splashing puppies. :D
AJ

[labr@]

Hey PAR...
It's 0340 where you are - are you out of bed yet ?
Want to talk about techniques for splashing puppies. :D
AJ

Might be a bit early yet AJ - perhaps we should let sleeping puppies lie.....:U

Well she was well and truly wet today. She was a bit unstable at times - as you can see in this photo I had trouble staying upright. :doh:

[labr@]

Seriously though the news is basically all good - tracks strongly (may be able to reduce the skeg a bit), stable as (insert metaphor of choice here), allows re-entry and although I only did a bit of circle work and short straights it seems to move along easily. The speed capability assessment will really need to wait until I get out with the GPS and the behaviour in waves is another unknown.

One thing that was unexpected was that the hull is too slippery to hang onto when wet so I had to grab the coaming and do a 3/4 on approach when climbing back on.

The seat was a slab of styrofoam about 5" thick shaped to fit. It could easily be trimmed by about 2" to lower the centre of gravity even more.

All in all it's a great relief to know it's not a complete dud after all this work :2tsup:. Now to install the front bulkhead, finish the sanding/varnishing and add some ropes/handles/rod holders etc.

Many thanks to AJ for coming down and taking the photos as well as helping to assess trim at various seat positions.

[b.o.a.t.]

Might be a bit early yet AJ -
perhaps we should let sleeping puppies lie.....:U

Well she was well and truly wet today. She was a bit unstable at times -
as you can see in this photo I had trouble staying upright. :doh:


Only because you were trying to dance or something. I just missed
photographing the really neat falling over thing, & you wouldn't do it again.
Don't know why - you weren't going to get any colder or wetter. :D

Flathead is probably the wrong name for the boat. Looks so stable you
could go shark fishing in it. Towing said shark back from Neptune Island or
wherever it tired out would be a pain, but do-able.

Load needs to kept well forward - that broad bow generates lots of lift.
Didn't mention it at the time, but I think it would probably take a sail really
well. Would expect it to be hard to bury it surfing too. Once he gets the
bottom varnished, you'll find Bob on Sunday arvo's carving waves off Waitpinga.

Oh, and the praise for the boat from other beach users as Bob was carrying
the boat back to the car got so effusive it was embarrassing. :B

Good job Bloke !
AJ

[m2c1Iw]

Great stuff :2tsup: particularly like pic #8 the trim looks spot on.

[labr@]

I just missed
photographing the really neat falling over thing, & you wouldn't do it again.
Don't know why - you weren't going to get any colder or wetter. :D


Dibber dobber! :U:U:U

I gave up on the Flathead idea some time ago and now think of it as "Fatbum" - do you think that's a bit too poetic?

Mike, thanks and yes I am very happy with the way the bottom of the transom sits at the waterline. Can't really claim too much credit for achieving it though as the software provided the forms that enabled the design intent to be met in the real world. That KF program really is very good.

[b.o.a.t.]

Fatbum...
for a moment there I thought you were referring to me!

Cole Clark calls his acoustic guitar models "Fat Lady"s.
Nice guitars too. Came within a bee's whisker of buying one, only diverted
when the salesman unsportingly dropped the price of a Martin to nearly the same.

But Fatbum... nah.
Stick with a fish. Or a water feature.
(but not "Poo Farm" :D )

[PAR]

A splendid job, you should feel quite good about everything, congratulations . . .

[b.o.a.t.]

OK Bob
You've had nearly two years of Flathead & near silence.
How is she working out?
cheers
Alan J

[labr@]

G'Day AJ, it goes well. See thread in the fishing section from a couple of months back.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f130/kayak-finally-produces-158905/

Have logged just under 40 hours in it so far and it's great fun. Went out from Moana mid July and got smacked 6 times before I made it through the surf zone. Stayed upright though so it was all good :U.

244327244328

There were 2 surfers sitting on boards behind the wave in the first photo and the bloke on the wave ski in the second photo gives an idea of the wave size. Not big by most standards but I headed out just as a set was building - never been able to pick them very well :doh:.

Haven't done any capsize practice in the sea yet - maybe this summer. So far it's handled everything so well that I'm starting to become a bit compacent about the need to cope with a capsize.

Just getting started on a SOF build - will do a thread on it a bit later.

If you want a paddling partner sometime give me a shout.