Show us your lathe

[Dave J]

Hi Guys,
Here is a thread for members to show off there lathes. Come on it's time to dust off all those monarch's etc and take a picture. lol

I was thinking about what Gavin said about his mill in the "show us your mill thread"
If members put up a picture of their lathe and mill, when anybody is asking for advice to do something, we all know what type of equipment they have and can give advice based on the machines capability's.

Anyway here is 1 of mine, a Toolex (Gasweld) 12 x 36. I have had it for about 6 trouble free years , and after owning a Hercus for 15 years it was a big step up.
I have added 3 axis dro, quick change tool post, way covers, way wipers, carriage lock handle etc.
The Chinese always sell these machines to suit their height, so I added 100mm channel around the bottom of the cabinets and adjustable feet to bring it up an extra 150mm from standard height.
A few months back I mounted a 250mm chuck to my face plate for larger jobs, I think I might be getting close to steping up to something like RC's lathe.

I will take a picture of my Ward turret lathe latter and post it up as well.

Dave

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af26/top720/Picture1689Medium.jpg

http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/af26/top720/Picture1690Medium.jpg

[aussiejoeblow]

This is my 16 speed localy made Macson. It replaced my small Colchester master. Fantastic machine to work with and I only have a couple of small things to 'reco' and she will be as good as new. The wife calls this thing the 'stargate' as it sounds like the item from the t.v show when I flick her on.


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i86/jmleban/P1010027-2.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i86/jmleban/P1010026-2.jpg

Oh, and the little Hercus that I have some serious plans for........

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i86/jmleban/hercus2.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i86/jmleban/hercus1.jpg

[.RC.]

Some action shots, clickable pictures.

Chin Hung, 17X68 7.5hp 58mm spindle bore

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/th_clampknurler003Custom.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/clampknurler003Custom.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/th_ch430lathe003.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/ch430lathe003.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/th_threadingbarrell001.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/threadingbarrell001.jpg)

The New Visby, 17" swing, 48" centres, 3 and bit inches spindle bore, 1600rpm top speed and 10hp drive motor...removes a lot of metal very fast...future of this lathe is unknown...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/purcell%20lathe/th_purcelllatheathome016.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/purcell%20lathe/purcelllatheathome016.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/th_variousworlshop001.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/variousworlshop001.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/purcell%20lathe/th_purcelllatheathome076.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/purcell%20lathe/purcelllatheathome076.jpg)

[Dave J]

RC
Whats the other big lathe in the back ground of picture 1?

Dave

[.RC.]

You posted too fast Dave, that is the New Visby...I edited it in...

[Woodlee]

Here s my little Myford Super 7 .
It has a 5" 3 jaw chuck fitted ,two face plates , a catch plate , universal milling attachment and vice , Myford dividing attachment and a full set of Myford collets and chuck.
There are also a 4 Myford four jaw , Myford 3 jaw and a couple of other smaller chucks for it including a Myford specific ER32 collet chuck.
I mainly use Er 32 collets ,which I also use in my mill.

The other pic is of my Edgewick toolroom lathe which is due for a total restoration in the future.

Kev.

[Graziano]

The wife calls this thing the 'stargate' as it sounds like the item from the t.v show when I flick her on.

Hahaha, I was talking to a guy who worked in a local shipyard where an old co-worker used a Macson. No-one else could get anywhere near as good work from this Macson and the other machinists were amazed at how he could get any work at all form the lathe.

My friend noticed this old guy used to adjust a bolt on the headstock and throw the spanner in the sump. Turns out this guy was loosening the spindle bush whenever he wasn't using it and tightening it back up for his work.

This is my 1953 Graziano SAG180 (only 14" unlike RC's) which has had every bearing replaced and adjustments made. Unlike later models this machine runs a bit faster than later models at 1800 rpm and has a high pressure bronze bush fluid bearing instead of the later model's Gamet bearings at $5K-7K for a set if you can find them (Phew!). It also has the oil filled Collotti clutches to let you stick it in reverse at full speed in less than a second when high speed threading. It has lapped chrome steel forged gears and flame hardened ways and to my mind it has the styling of a world war two fighter plane with the louvre vents on the belt and motor cover.


http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143239&stc=1&d=1280493127


http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143240&stc=1&d=1280493127


http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143241&stc=1&d=1280493127


http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143243&stc=1&d=1280493978

[matthew_g]

Well I don't have many at the moment but here is one of my lathes

[Dave J]

You guys have some nice lathes :2tsup:
Matthew,
I see your running full flood cooling, any problems with rust so far? I have it on the mill but am thinking of hooking mine up on the lathe.
Dave

[Graziano]

You guys have some nice lathes :2tsup:
Matthew,
I see your running full flood cooling, any problems with rust so far? I have it on the mill but am thinking of hooking mine up on the lathe.
Dave


I'd heard some neat (not the water based) cutting fluids will leave your lathe rusty overnight if not cleaned up due to a mineral acid content.

[matthew_g]

You guys have some nice lathes :2tsup:
Matthew,
I see your running full flood cooling, any problems with rust so far? I have it on the mill but am thinking of hooking mine up on the lathe.
Dave


Dave,
I run full cooling systems on two of my lathes and both mills, As well as my bandsaw and
power hacksaw..I use the AIS brand of water soluble oil at a mix of 17 to 1.
I have been running this mix in all machines and if anything it prevents rust on the
ways..
Well it seems to me that where ever the coolant goes there is no sighn whatsoever
of any form of corrosion.
Hope this helps.

[Gavin Newman]

Here is my AL960B (one of many we blokes seem to have bought recently - we should have asked for bulk discount from H&F :U)

143296

I haven't done many modifications as it seems to fine out of the box. The first thing I changed (as I did on the AL320G I had before) was to replace the plastic handles with aluminium & brass ones. It just feels nicer in use. At the right you can see the tee-bar replacement for the saddle clamp - much quicker than using an allen key under the compound each time.

143297

Another small annoyance on the 960 is that the compound is clamped by socket head cap screws which fill up with swarf. A short length of 5mm hex pressed into a bit of 1/2" round solves that problem.

143298

I don't like using soluble coolant so most of my work is done dry. If I need oil/coolant I have a gravity feed system using an old JAP fuel tank.

143299

I was disappointed by the quality (loose term) of the commercially available knurlers so, as with most other people, I made my own - I think it's beefy enough! The arms pivot at the very rear so they are supported from sideways movement by the tool side.

143300

And lastly, my mill/drill. It's too wimpy to post in the mill thread but for $200 delivered to my workshop I can't complain. It's Taiwanese and has a replacement 3Hp Australian made motor. One day I'll get a proper mill when the domestic goddess loosens the purse strings but for now it does fine.

143301

[Stustoys]

Here's mine. Its the same as a H&F AL-335 just a little longer between centers. The biggest mods so far are an hour meter(why? because I had one in my shed) and the foot "brake". Its just a switch at the minute but I may add a brake at a later date. My theory on emergency stops is, if you don't use it every time you wont remember to use it when you need it.
Next picture is the vertical slide bracket I made
The last is a rough spindle I set up to fix a cracked pulley on my compressor.

[aussiejoeblow]

Graziano......very nice paint job:2tsup:

[Bryan]

Graziano......very nice paint job:2tsup:

Yeah, good colour too. What do you call that?

Edit: Apart from Blue.

[Graziano]

Yeah, good colour too. What do you call that?

Edit: Apart from Blue.

It's a basic quick dry white enamel base from Altex Coatings, with lots of phthalocyanine blue tint added. The finish is really an orange peel finish up close as I sprayed it on thick (little thinner) to avoid runs in the paint. By not having a two pack I should be able to touch it up from time to time. Also the camera shows it as being lighter than than it actually is.

If anyone is going to strip old pink oil soaked cast iron bog that they all seem to be filled with, then I recommend using a decent size angle grinder fitted with the correct rpm wire cup wheel to rip it out. This beat out all other methods like paint stripper for speed.

[DustInOz]

G'day all,
this year I moved into a house with a shed, after spending the last 10 years living in flats and at sea. It is like heaven having your own creative space, as I am sure you guys would agree.
Here is a pic of the lathe I purchased recently which I am really pleased with, it's an AL-960B, which I believe a few users on this forum have.
I have also included a pic of the bench I built and my mill, which is a nice bit of kit too....

[Woodlee]

AuusieJoe ,
I spent a couple of years using a Macson lathe the same vintage as yours ,during my apprenticeship .
It a was slightly larger model with a longer bed .
They are a great lathe ,very solid and the one I used was very accurate.
The tapered scroll three jaw chuck fitted to them is the strongest three jaw chuck on the planet ,designed by Taylor in the UK .
I have a 4" Taylor tapered scroll chuck that came with the Myford.
The taperdTaylor chucks were very expensive in thier day and the outside clamping jaws were an optional extra , a lot of buyers didn't opt for the extra jaws because of the extra expense ,so the optional jaws are very hard to find these days.
My Edgewick lathe has an 8" Tapered Taylor chuck fitted but unfortunately no outside jaws.
The local Tafe had a Macson the same model as I used to operate ,
when it closed the lathe was sold , but I think some one already had tabs on it and it was sold with out any advertising .I know who has it and will be visiting his workshop shortly to have a look at it.

Kev.

[eskimo]

I'm Jealous .,.,...AGAIN!!!
(one day I might win lotto...be able to pay swmbo what she wants and then maybe still have enough left over to get something decent....so for the moment the..err my lathe can still stay where it is ...i dont want to get yelled at...not until I know she is very very very happy....lol)

[RayG]

Strictly speaking, this isn't actually my lathe, it belongs to my next door neighbour (who is now a long term hospital patient after a heart attack left him in pretty bad shape)

http://www.backsaw.net/pics/Lathe1.jpg

I have added the DRO and QCTP both of which have made a big difference in terms of ease of use, I mostly seem to use insert tooling.

There are a couple of shallow drawers underneath for tool storage. They are from some fibre optic patch panels.

http://www.backsaw.net/pics/Lathe3.jpg

It's badged CQ6230, made in December 1993, I have had to make a new gear selector lever after the cast one broke and jammed the gear box.
The only other issue I have had is the electric motor bearings needed replacing.

http://www.backsaw.net/pics/Lathe2.jpg

The DRO is a Meister, (from ebay), which I'm pretty happy with, I don't have DRO on the compound slide (like Dave's) , which would be a nice thing to have sometimes.

My next lathe will probably be an AL960B... which I very nearly bought after the gear box crash on this one earlier this year.

Regards
Ray

[GDD]

This is my AL960B bought new from H&F 18 years ago (when they were in Woolloongabba, for old Brisbanites). The dial guage set up is the best gadget I've ever made. I can now do precision work like interference fits and bearing shafts and housings with confidence. QC toolpost I made from a design in Australian Model Engineer (AME). Other pics are a clutch setup - also from an article in AME some years ago. This is also an improvement I love.

Graham

[Dave J]

Hi Ray,
I see you have the same tool post as mine from H&F. I would like to find the factory in china or Taiwan were they make these to buy them in bulk. I have looked up the name (Fmco) a few time but cant find anything.

To get my miester cross slide scale sitting lower I removed the oil cap on the saddle and put in a large grub screw with plumbers tape on it in the hole instead.

My vice was bought in about 82 and is made by Joplin in Sydney, not sure if there still going but it has had some abuse over the years and is still going strong.

Dave

[RayG]

Hi Ray,
I see you have the same tool post as mine from H&F. I would like to find the factory in china or Taiwan were they make these to buy them in bulk. I have looked up the name (Fmco) a few time but cant find anything.

Dave

Hi Dave,

I've tried as well to find an alternate supplier for the L295 holder to suit the QA-150 QCTP, I did find a very similar looking one made by http://www.jihshun.com.tw

Without getting detailed specs, it's a bit of a gamble as to whether they will fit.

This is the picture from their web site, that I've been looking at.
http://www.jihshun.com.tw/pd-gif/AS/lathe/900/Quick%20change%20tool%20post.JPG

The picture is from this page, scroll down a bit to the accessories.

http://www.jihshun.com.tw/English/p2-5B-e.htm

I'd be interested in a bulk purchase if the price was right.

Regards
Ray

[Dave J]

They could be a possibility for getting them bulk. I might sent an email for a picture of the specs to compare them to ours.

Another mod I did to mine was to make a new tool post nut. It's a hex head cap nut to suit the height adjustment spanner, so only one spanner is needed to adjust the height or turn the tool post. I did use the original handle first off, but found it got in the way sometimes. With having it set up this way I can leave it on or take it off.

Dave

[bollie7]

DustInOz
I see you are building a model steam loco. I wonder why so many Mariners build model steam loco's. I've either known or know of, quite few over the years who have/are building steam locos.
Big job, better men than me. LOL

bollie7

[nadroj]

This is the picture from their web site, that I've been looking at.
http://www.jihshun.com.tw/pd-gif/AS/lathe/900/Quick%20change%20tool%20post.JPG


That's a pattern of a Dickson toolpost, made in England.
I have 2 of these, a genuine and an Indian made copy. The real Dickson I can't fault, but the Indian did have a little problem. When using the parting tool, it broke. Amazingly, not the parting blade, but the toolholder, at the T slots that get gripped by the plunger on the toolpost. I think it must be glass-hard. Bit of a lucky dip, these pattern parts!

Jordan

[Dave J]

Graham
Interesting setup with the clutch, do you have a few more details and picture. Also is the bracket arrangement between the 2 pulleys to hold the belt when it is slack?

Jordan
That looks like cast? There was no way I buy a real Dickson at there price.:o

Quality is one thing I cant complain about the H&F tool post, they are a quality copy of the Dickson, made of hardened steel and and precision ground. The tool holders are the same which makes me think they might be Taiwanese made.
I buy a bit of Indian stuff at the local market off the Indian fellows, and most stuff is not well made. I have noticed even they are now starting to sell Chinese gear.

Dave

Edit
Here are a few pictures of the Hare and Forbes tool post and holders.
The only problem with the H&F one is, the holders are $76 each:o theres nothing wrong with the quality.
I will make sure I ask the manufactures when getting quotes, what there tool holders are made of after seeing your tool holder.
If I cant find them at a reasonable price I will have to make them on the shaper, but I want about 20-30 holders so thats a bit of work.
One bloke did a nice right up, he's name is Dave as well so don't mistake him with me.
I have been caught out with that before after giving the link on another forum.
Dave WorkShop (http://www.rulezman.com/workshop/ws/parting%20off%20holder.htm)

[nadroj]

Jordan
That looks like cast? There was no way I buy a real Dickson at there price.:o

Quality is one thing I cant complain about the H&F tool post, they are a quality copy of the Dickson, made of hardened steel and and precision ground. The tool holders are the same which makes me think they might be Taiwanese made.
I buy a bit of Indian stuff at the local market off the Indian fellows, and most stuff is not well made. I have noticed even they are now starting to sell Chinese gear.

Dave

I'm pretty sure it's steel, just too hard. They should be tempered after hardening, I think? Then they might not shatter like this. Trouble is, it looked nicely made, and I only found out about the brittleness in use. Good reports (and bad!) are useful to share - nice to hear a positive about the H&F one.
I was lucky the original Dickson toolpost I have came with a lathe I bought.

Jordan

[Bryan]

And then there's this design by John Stevenson, if anyone's keen to make their own: Quick Change Toolpost (http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/toolpost/toolpost.html)

[Dave J]

And then there's this design by John Stevenson, if anyone's keen to make their own: Quick Change Toolpost (http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/toolpost/toolpost.html)

There are a lot of different designs out there, Retromilling from this forum built one a while back, that came up nice.
The link I gave above was to making a Dickson style tool holder.
On Daves site he has a lot of useful info for people starting out, and has done some mods with his smaller lathes and mill, worth looking at if you own one. He has a few links to other sites of interest as well. One is to ISHIMURA Japanese site Mini Lathe Workshop (http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/index-e.html)

Dave

[GDD]

Graham
Interesting setup with the clutch, do you have a few more details and picture. Also is the bracket arrangement between the 2 pulleys to hold the belt when it is slack?

Dave


The brackets are to hold the belt clear of the pulleys when the clutch is released. Without brackets the belt will still drive even when it is slack as it hangs in the pulleys. The clutch was a bit of an add on extra to the initial job which was to mount the motor away from the lathe. This was to avoid the surface patterns that sometimes resulted from "harmonic" vibrations originating in the cogging effect of the single phase motor and transferred through the lathe bed. The motor is still in its original position but now sits on a post bolted to the floor and does not touch the lathe. It fixed the problem and the clutch is a giant bonus on jobs that are stop and start repeatedly. The action of the clutch is smooth, and after much use there is no evidence of pulley or belt wear.

The clutch design was based on a couple of articles in AME magazine a few years ago. I would still have the mags and could scan the articles if that is not going to be a copyright problem. Does anybody know whether it is or not? I could take more photos if required.

Graham

[Dave J]

The brackets are to hold the belt clear of the pulleys when the clutch is released. Without brackets the belt will still drive even when it is slack as it hangs in the pulleys. The clutch was a bit of an add on extra to the initial job which was to mount the motor away from the lathe. This was to avoid the surface patterns that sometimes resulted from "harmonic" vibrations originating in the cogging effect of the single phase motor and transferred through the lathe bed. The motor is still in its original position but now sits on a post bolted to the floor and does not touch the lathe. It fixed the problem and the clutch is a giant bonus on jobs that are stop and start repeatedly. The action of the clutch is smooth, and after much use there is no evidence of pulley or belt wear.

The clutch design was based on a couple of articles in AME magazine a few years ago. I would still have the mags and could scan the articles if that is not going to be a copyright problem. Does anybody know whether it is or not? I could take more photos if required.

Graham

Hi Graham
PM sent, Is this clutch in combination with a foot brake to stop it?

Dave

[Dave J]

Here's mine. Its the same as a H&F AL-335 just a little longer between centers. The biggest mods so far are an hour meter(why? because I had one in my shed) and the foot "brake". Its just a switch at the minute but I may add a brake at a later date. My theory on emergency stops is, if you don't use it every time you wont remember to use it when you need it.
Next picture is the vertical slide bracket I made
The last is a rough spindle I set up to fix a cracked pulley on my compressor.



I have been looking at putting a foot brake on my lathe as also. And after seeing Graham's post above I might look at hooking up a clutch in with it as well.
They usually put brake pads inside the gear box pulley and have a back plate there to hold the pads. I have measured mine and it will take 100mm dia brake pads. A source for the brake pads are off the small cheap motor bikes from China called pocket bikes and thumpsters.

Here is how one guy did it
Home Metal Shop Club, April 1997 (http://homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep97/sep97.html)

Dave

[nadroj]

I have a Harrison lathe with a simple brake that is in the form of a fibre wedge on a lever, that engages a pulley groove. It is a system that has also been used on Vintage belt-drive motorcycles, before they went to chains. I made one for a friend's 1924 P&M, using hardwood as the brake shoe material, although hard rubber was the original stuff. Anyway, it seems to be an easy way to organise a brake, just needing a place to pivot the lever near the clear arc of the pulley. Drawing is from Harrison M300 parts list.

Jordan

[steran50]

HI:),
This is a Picture of My Metal Lathe it's an Hafco AL-960B with a DRO. It replaced My 1958 Hercus Model 'A' Plain Bearing Lathe - A Dramatic change in Machines. I was just in the process of Cleaning the Swarf off and giving it an Oil Change. I haven't had it that long, but I wish had Bought one Years ago its a Nice Machine:2tsup: to use. I went for the DRO Option as it was on Sale and the Sale Price was to good of a Deal to Say No too.

[Ozceltic63]

:fit: :cry3::cry3::bigcry::bawl: mummy i want one.

[Dave50]

:fit: :cry3::cry3::bigcry::bawl: mummy i want one.

better put me in that basket as well, may start shopping around! :U

[Gavin Newman]

So many of us have bought AL960Bs of late that Hare & Forbes should have given us bulk discount....

[.RC.]

I am actually wondering why so many people buy H&F lathes when there are a large number of other sellers out there...

[Gavin Newman]

Well I can't speak for others but in Adelaide it's a small market and there is really only one serious machine supply place and they sell the H&F range. There are a couple of other places that sell lathes & mills but they don't have the range, service backup and tooling range that General Tools do.

[GDD]

Well I can't speak for others but in Adelaide it's a small market and there is really only one serious machine supply place and they sell the H&F range. There are a couple of other places that sell lathes & mills but they don't have the range, service backup and tooling range .


Ditto for Brisbane, unless someone can tell me about a dealer that I'm so far unaware of???

Graham

[Big Shed]

ShawHome (http://www.shawmachinery.com.au/)

[Com_VC]

I have been looking at putting a foot brake on my lathe as also. And after seeing Graham's post above I might look at hooking up a clutch in with it as well.
They usually put brake pads inside the gear box pulley and have a back plate there to hold the pads. I have measured mine and it will take 100mm dia brake pads. A source for the brake pads are off the small cheap motor bikes from China called pocket bikes and thumpsters.

Here is how one guy did it
Home Metal Shop Club, April 1997 (http://homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep97/sep97.html)

Dave

Regarding the foot brake, do you think a hydraulic setup from a car/bike would be a good idea?

[Dave J]

Regarding the foot brake, do you think a hydraulic setup from a car/bike would be a good idea?

Hi,
I wouldn't recommend using hydraulic brakes on a lathe, I think it would only cause problems latter with leaking. Space might be a problem also trying to fit it in the 100mm pulley, but I don't see why it wouldn't work if you wanted to go that way. Don't forget to incorporate a micro switch to cut the power just before the brake engages, otherwise you might burn out the motor.
I have some mechanical pocket bike calipers here, that I have been thinking of using instead of the drum brake idea. The disc could be mounted onto the back of the pulley easily enough and a cable run down to the foot brake.

Here is a link to a set up a fellow made for his lathe and below are some pictures of it.
Home Metal Shop Club, April 1997 (http://homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep97/sep97.html)
The others are from a factory setup to give you some ideas, they came from here.
CandlePowerForums (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=216408&page=3)

Dave

[Gavin Newman]

Regarding the foot brake, do you think a hydraulic setup from a car/bike would be a good idea?

Or alternatively a brake setup from a kart. As you can see from my avatar I race Superkarts, we stop 165kg of kart and driver from 100 mph using a single disk brake on the rear axle so it should be able to cope with anything a lathe could throw at it.

[nadroj]

These adapted drum brakes look good, but do seem to need a lot of work to set up.
Has anyone considered the Harrison method I described earlier? Comments? It would seem to be a simpler mod that could be almost invisible. The rotating element is already on your lathe - the countershaft pulley.

Jordan

[.RC.]

Some machines use disc brakes from a motor bike...

This is what the brake on my lathe looks like


clickable thumb

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/th_brakeband001Custom.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/brakeband001Custom.jpg)

[Stustoys]

nadroj The only thing that would worry me about that set up is how it would react in reverse.

As far as using a car caliper. One off the rear may work best. Lots of rear calipers (not commodores)have a cable for the handbrake and are a sliding single piston(its not like you are going to need a 6 spot ;)). So you could thin down one side a lot as the load will be less.

As far as mine lathe goes I'm just thinking about pulling an old disc pad against the back of the V belts just where they go onto the pulley on the headstock. Sure it will wear the belt out a little, but how much?

Dave do you know what sort of lathe is in your second set of pictures?

Stuart

[Dave J]

Some machines use disc brakes from a motor bike...

This is what the brake on my lathe looks like


clickable thumb

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/th_brakeband001Custom.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/OzRinger/brakeband001Custom.jpg)

Thats a band type drum brake isnt it?

Dave

[Dave J]

Dave do you know what sort of lathe is in your second set of pictures?
Stuart


Stuart
It's a 12 x 36 lathe like mine it's in the link in the same message.

Dave

[Graziano]

Don't forget a suitable single to three phase inverter has regenerative braking for the motor and some can even lock the rotor at zero rpm. Also motors with electromagnetic brakes are available too: http://www.weg.net/files/products/1-410.pdf

[.RC.]

Thats a band type drum brake isnt it?

Dave

Yes, and very effective..

[Graziano]

These adapted drum brakes look good, but do seem to need a lot of work to set up.
Has anyone considered the Harrison method I described earlier? Comments? It would seem to be a simpler mod that could be almost invisible. The rotating element is already on your lathe - the countershaft pulley.

Jordan


Well if both Harrison and Colchester have been using it for years on cast iron pulleys it should work fine on other lathes. About the only caveat I can think of is that pulley does not reverse as the direction change is handled in the gearbox. So if you have a simpler lathe with an electric motor based reverse (light dim all over the suburb on reverse) the brake shoe would have to be made larger, say 120 degrees to keep it in place with a bit of wear. Also that shaft bearing may have to be checked to see if it can handle the sideways load that a disc won't have.

[eskimo]

can I add a bit here

remember that stopping rotating shafts to a standstill in a very small space of time may cause things to undo...screw on stuff that is

[Graziano]

can I add a bit here

remember that stopping rotating shafts to a standstill in a very small space of time may cause things to undo...screw on stuff that is

That is going to be the big problem for any non camlock style lathe chuck.

[Stustoys]

Thanks Dave. You need to log in to see the post.
I'm just interested in the 2 speed pulleys... maybe one day
Stuart

[Dave J]

Thanks Dave. You need to log in to see the post.
I'm just interested in the 2 speed pulleys... maybe one day
Stuart

Mine is an 18 speed as well with 4 pulleys top and bottom. If you ever want an info let me know.

Dave

[nadroj]

nadroj The only thing that would worry me about that set up is how it would react in reverse.

Stuart

That's a very good point. With the setup as pictured, it'd have a stronger action in one direction than the other, a bit like a double-leading-shoe brake. Arranging for an equal effect either way would complicate things so it might not be such a simple solution after all. As Graziano states (and something that didn't occur to me) the Harrison motor/countershaft always spins in the same direction, so having the simple pivoted shoe isn't a problem.
Thanks for the feedback, fellas!

Jordan

[Zsteve]

Here's what I would describe a "before" clean up shot of my c1960 Advance lathe (mad in Melbourne).

Was lucky enough to get it with a full set of change gears and a whole lot of accessories. Bit small for my liking but its a good little lathe.

HAve been without one for a long time and its good to be abl to do a few of those jobs that get saved up.

Regards
Steve

[nadroj]

I'm just thinking about pulling an old disc pad against the back of the V belts just where they go onto the pulley on the headstock. Sure it will wear the belt out a little, but how much?
Stuart
If you do that, I think it'd be better to use a plain steel pad against the rubber.

Jordan

[nadroj]

Well if both Harrison and Colchester have been using it for years on cast iron pulleys it should work fine on other lathes. About the only caveat I can think of is that pulley does not reverse as the direction change is handled in the gearbox. So if you have a simpler lathe with an electric motor based reverse (light dim all over the suburb on reverse) the brake shoe would have to be made larger, say 120 degrees to keep it in place with a bit of wear. Also that shaft bearing may have to be checked to see if it can handle the sideways load that a disc won't have.
I checked - the Harrison M300 that I posted a brake drawing of has only electric reverse.
The brake action is serviceable in both directions.
Jordan

[Bryan]

Dave,
I run full cooling systems on two of my lathes and both mills, As well as my bandsaw and
power hacksaw..I use the AIS brand of water soluble oil at a mix of 17 to 1.
I have been running this mix in all machines and if anything it prevents rust on the
ways..
Well it seems to me that where ever the coolant goes there is no sighn whatsoever
of any form of corrosion.
Hope this helps.

Matthew, where do you get this? Google is no help. And I know that whatever suppliers I ask will just try to flog me their stuff.

[matthew_g]

Matthew, where do you get this? Google is no help. And I know that whatever suppliers I ask will just try to flog me their stuff.


I have just recieved the latest AIS (Australian Industrial Supplies)
South Australia has 9 outlets.

Cummins.................Cummins Bearings & Engineering
Kadina......................Vennings
Long Plains..............Sharmans
Loxton........................O.E Bradtke & Sons PTY LTD
Mt Gambier................GT Industrial Sales
Murray Bridge.............Eastside Bearing & Brake Supplies
Port Lincoln.................Eyre Gas & Welding Supplies
Whyalla Norrie..............RI Gas & Industrial Supplies
Wingfeild.......................GRH Supplies

I hope one of these places is close enough to you...:)

[Bryan]

For a class clown you're pretty helpful :D Thanks a lot.

[matthew_g]

For a class clown you're pretty helpful :D Thanks a lot.

Why thankyou :thanx:

[eskimo]

For a class clown you're pretty helpful :D Thanks a lot.

hi Bryan
While at a clients place several months ago I noticed that their mill was using coolant when operating and asked the relevant questions eg what did they use, rust etc etc

They said that in the 7 years since they had been using Caltex Trusol EP mixing at a rate of about 10 to 1 ( just make sure it still feels oily when rubbed onto the palm of your hands) they have not had any problems...there certainly was'nt any rust on any of their machines

I've got some but am still using up the original stuff I bought when I got the mill......so I cant advise first hand but as stated above the lathes and mills in the clients tool room didnt have and rust

cost was around $100 ( i think??) per 20litre drum at Adelaide Fuel Distributors 08 8349-5868

[Graziano]

I checked - the Harrison M300 that I posted a brake drawing of has only electric reverse.
The brake action is serviceable in both directions.
Jordan

Thanks, always good to know, I just assumed it was the usual rebadged Colchester.

[Jekyll and Hyde]

This blurry AL335 followed me home yesterday, complete with QCTP, and seven holders fitted out with carbide insert tooling, a couple of packs of inserts, a coolant pump and tank, and one or two other little bits and bobs (in addition to all the standard gear, including the 4 jaw chuck still in its box!)

Not particularly exciting to anyone other than me I'm sure, being just yet another variant of a CQ6230A, but anyways...

Now, if I can just work out what the hell I require 5 extra change gears for when none of them are mentioned on the threading charts. Suppose they could be used for really really oddball threads, if I could determine the ratios available in the threading box to let me use Vernons calculator...

What is the common view on the best oils to use in these things, while I'm at it? I'd like to change all the oils in it, since I don't know whether the previous owner checked for casting sand etc in his 12 month stint with the lathe.... The threading box oil is definitely not a nice colour, and the apron not a lot better, although the headstock itself isn't too bad. H&F manual is absolutely useless - unreadable for a start, and doesn't tell you much if you do struggle through it, especially not important stuff like what oils go where...

And last thing (for the moment), has anyone tried the CDCO holders on the H&F quick change toolpost? $9 sounds much better than $55....

BTW, the photo is blurry thanks to my Canon digital camera going mad and taking technicolour photos, forcing me to use my phone. The phone doesn't like anything less than bright daylight... Really should check up with Canon about that, believe its a free repair even though the camera is about 7 years old...

[Stustoys]

Jekyll and Hyde,
Can't remember what oil I am using (iso68 maybe? I'll check tomorrow)(edit: turns out it is LOMA 32)

What are the numbers of teeth?
The "extra" gears are most likely the Z gears on this plate, for cutting imperial pitches(assuming you have metric leadscrew).

Stuart

[Dave J]

Good score :2tsup:Looks like it came well equipped.
Always good to see someone get a new machine, I still remember getting my lathe and opening the crate.:o It's heaps of fun, but other no machinist types don't get it and think your mad. One question I always get when I buy a new machine is what are you going to make with it, do you think you will make your money back. I respond will you make your money back on that new new bike or jet ski, etc? It's a hobby just like they are so why do I have to make my money back?
.
I have seen a few around for sale lately, I wonder if people buy them and think they will make money off them or do all these jobs and loose interest. my little hercus sometimes sat for 6 months without being touched, then a job would come along for it.

I think your lathe is the same as mine (other than the bottom box) in that it's imperial. so the gears are change gears for metric/imperial selection. I keep mine in those clip type small sandwich bags, oiled up so they don't rust up.
Stuart has covered the oil, but I would recommend tail stock, cross slide and compound wipers on it. I had a bit of trouble with mine that chips would find thee way under the tail stock when it was moved and would inbeded into the ways, the tail stock wipers stopped this happening.
Also make sure the gib's are nipped up to give a slight drag or you will get movement and it will give a bad finish.
Now the question, since you are now hooked when is the mill coming and the DRO? LOL

Dave
PS
Nice saw by the way.

[Pete F]

And last thing (for the moment), has anyone tried the CDCO holders on the H&F quick change toolpost? $9 sounds much better than $55....

Yes I have a bunch of tool holders from CDCO and they're fine. Occasionally I strike one that's ever so slightly tight, but it frees up after a couple of trips in and out of the toolpost. About the only thing I do is remove the bolt and put a drop of stud locker on it when I first use a new holder. Also I'd suggest not to over-tighten the lock nut, it really only needs to be finger tight as the lock washer will stop the adjustment nut turning.

Pete

[aametalmaster]

3 of my SBL's. 1919 15"x 6', 1941 10Lx 4 1/2' and my 1974 10K x 3 1/2' which is winding some MIG wire onto a smaller spool...Bob

[Dave J]

Realy nice colection of lathes their Bob.

Dave

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Jekyll and Hyde,
Can't remember what oil I am using (iso68 maybe? I'll check tomorrow)

What are the numbers of teeth?
The "extra" gears are most likely the Z gears on this plate, for cutting imperial pitches(assuming you have metric leadscrew).

Stuart

Mine must have imperial leadscrew, since my metric charts look like your imperial chart - except with no 'z' in them. The 24 and 48 tooth are both always in use for metric, only they swap positions.

The imperial charts have either 48, unmarked gear, z, or alternatively 24, unmarked, z. I also notice that in addition to the 2 combinations of the threading dials (S/M and I/II) on the right, there is a row marked 'Z", which I don't get - should they be put in neutral?

Picture is of an AL336 thread plate, but its the same as mine except the unmarked gear is marked 127T. Which is irrelevant I suppose, as its only an idler.

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/images/105651.jpeg

So how exactly do you work out what goes at Z? I have in the machine at the moment, set up for the common metric threads, 24, 127, 120 and 48. In the toolbox, I have 22, 26, 38, 44 and 52, none of which are ever mentioned anywhere on the lathe?



Stuart has covered the oil, but I would recommend tail stock, cross slide and compound wipers on it. I had a bit of trouble with mine that chips would find thee way under the tail stock when it was moved and would inbeded into the ways, the tail stock wipers stopped this happening.
Also make sure the gib's are nipped up to give a slight drag or you will get movement and it will give a bad finish.
Now the question, since you are now hooked when is the mill coming and the DRO? LOL

Dave
PS
Nice saw by the way.

More wipers is not a bad idea, did you just make some up, or can you buy something?

The saw is probably my best score to date, it was a gift from a friend, but with a blown motor. About $350 later, one perfectly functional coldsaw!

And re the mill...

[Stustoys]

Do you have a 120/127 gear?
Can you post a picture of your metric chart as well please

I'm not sure how I worked out where the Z goes. But on my lathe the Z gear goes on the input of the QCGB. Of course now you have me wondering lol. I don't recall cutting any imp threads so I can't really say.
Only M feed is used for thread cutting(S engages the power feed shaft and disengages the leadscrew). I/II are different gears. So if you wanted 19 threads per inch. Find 19 on the chart to the right of either MI or MII in the top or bottom of the chart(in this case MII on the top chart), then go up and get your other two gear settings(in this case C3) and your Z gear number (in this case 38), then set up the gear train with either the 48 or 24(in this case 48) and the Z gear
Make sense?
(oh great you can do 19tpi in MI C3 with a driver of 24 and a Z of 48)
Still making sense?


That's a great looking bottom on the oil pump on your mill lol

Stuart

[Dave J]

Hi,
Your chart should look the same or very similar to mine below.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170107&stc=1&d=1305542836

The Z number is written beside it in a row and all the numbers you wrote are in their.

The wipers are just made up out of sheet metal formed in the vice with a few bits of flat bar cut to suit the size, then just put some felt in them. I just used what felt I had laying around and it works fine, but I need to get some proper stuff.

The sheet metal way covers shown in the picture along with the lead screw cover have been brilliant and save heaps of time cleaning up as well as protecting the ways from drooped things and also fine dust from cast etc. The one under the chuck just lifts out so you can sweep the swarf off the carriage mounted cover onto it and lift it out to get rid of it. the carriage one is only held on by 2 screws from the way wipers which are still underneath.

Dave
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170108&stc=1&d=1305543312

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170109&stc=1&d=1305543312

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170110&stc=1&d=1305543312

[Dave J]

Not sure how yours could have a imp leadscrew or it wouldn't need the Z gear for imp threads(I don't think)
Do you have a 120/127 gear?
Can you post a picture of your metric chart as well please

I'm not sure how I worked out where the Z goes. But on my lathe the Z gear goes on the input of the QCGB. Of course now you have me wondering lol. I don't recall cutting any imp threads so I can't really say.
Only M feed is used for thread cutting(S engages the power feed shaft and disengages the leadscrew). I/II are different gears. So if you wanted 19 threads per inch. Find 19 on the chart to the right of either MI or MII in the top or bottom of the chart(in this case MII on the top chart), then go up and get your other two gear settings(in this case C3) and your Z gear number (in this case 38), then set up the gear train with either the 48 or 24(in this case 48) and the Z gear
Make sense?
(oh great you can do 19tpi in MI C3 with a driver of 24 and a Z of 48)
Still making sense?


That's a great looking bottom on the oil pump on your mill lol

Stuart

The picture on the side of the chart shows where the Z gear goes and also the others.

Dave

[Stustoys]

The picture on the side of the chart shows where the Z gear goes and also the others.

Dave
Yes but do we just assume that its drawn the right way up?

Yours has a imp leadsrcew right Dave? Do you have change gears for the bottom of the thread chaser?

Stuart

[Jekyll and Hyde]

:doh: I really am thick sometimes... Just excuse me while I go get the hammer and readjust my brain :rolleyes:

Thanks gents, makes perfect sense now!



Do you have a 120/127 gear?
Can you post a picture of your metric chart as well please

My metric chart looks much like Daves, except I don't have any empty spaces in mine. And yes, its a 127/120 compound gear, the gear from the spindle drives the 127, the 120 drives the input to the change box.




That's a great looking bottom on the oil pump on your mill lol

Stuart

I know, fantastic craftsmanship on that one. The guy who made that must be some kind of genius :U

Back to oils for a moment, ISO68 oil - is that in all 3 spots? Or do you run something lighter in the headstock itself? :?

[Stustoys]

Back to oils for a moment, ISO68 oil - is that in all 3 spots? Or do you run something lighter in the headstock itself? :?
Oops sorry forgot to check, its been a busy day.
I do run the same oil in all three. (but thats not much help)
Off to the shed :( brb

Well that was a piece of luck, I had left the roller door open!!
LOMA 32(68 is the way oil, let that be a lesson to you, never trust my memory lol)
From the oil place on Dorset rd(I assume you know the one?)

Stuart

[Dave J]

Yes but do we just assume that its drawn the right way up?

Yours has a imp leadsrcew right Dave? Do you have change gears for the bottom of the thread chaser?

Stuart

LOL, you could be right there and won't know until you try them.

I have cut a lot of metric and imperial threads with mine and the diagrams and threads have turned out right.

As for the thread chaser, the imperial version only has one gear and metric you don't use it. I think this is simpler than the metric lead screw where you have to change them and if I bought a bigger lathe I would want imperial lead screw.
Did I give you the link to the guy that modified the metric thread dial to take all 3 gears and was adjustable up and down to suit any of them?
If not here it is.
Chester UK Ltd :: View topic - Crusader screwcutting drop in dial (http://www.atfreeforum.com/chesteruk/viewtopic.php?t=383&mforum=chesteruk)


Dave

[Jekyll and Hyde]

LOMA 32(68 is the way oil, let that be a lesson to you, never trust my memory lol)
From the oil place on Dorset rd(I assume you know the one?)

Stuart

I sure do know the place! Thank you kindly sir....

Ben

[Stustoys]

LOL, you could be right there and won't know until you try them.

Now that I think about it the metric thread would be wrong with the 24/48 gears in the wrong place as well. So we must be right ;)

You have a chart for the different pick up numbers for the different tpi?

I've seen that link, its on the list lol I have to mod mine as the other gears lock the shaft when fitted.

Ben,
I think they sell way oil in 5l containers now.(although you would have some already for you mill?)

Stuart

[Dave J]

Hi Stuart,
There is a chart for drop in numbers, but I haven't got one on the computer to show you.
The chart was originally mounted on the left side of the carriage? Why I don't know, as it would be easily scratched by swarf on that side and I needed to bend down and look around the corner to see it on the opposite side to the dial?

Dave

[Stustoys]

Dave,
I was just making sure you needed the drop in numbers(which of course after thinking about it a little more, of course you would), its be more than a few years since I used a lathe with a imp leadscrew and I don't believe I cut anything threads on it.
On my lathe the drop in numbers are on the change gear cover on the same plate as the other feed info.

Stuart

[Jekyll and Hyde]

Ben,
I think they sell way oil in 5l containers now.(although you would have some already for you mill?)

Stuart

Yep, they do sell it in 5 litre containers (Tonna S 68 at least). Still got a bit left, although between flushing the mill oil passages, a bit of a leak in the oil pump reservoir (fixed now!), and donations to a mate, not as much I should have after less than a year!

Ben

[Holycross]

New guy here with an AL320 H&F.

Building a cnc AL320, which now runs.


Seems like the attachment isn't working.:?

How do I attach a picture of the lathe?

Any suppliers in Perth for way oil?

Mark

[Bryan]

Welcome Mark. I thought we had a sticky about posting pictures, but apparently stickies have been confiscated. Maybe we were bad :?.

Anyway, there are three ways to do it.
1. Use the 'manage attachments' button. It's below the box where you type your text. The image will appear as a clickable thumbnail below your post. This is the simplest method.

2. Upload them to your album on this forum and link to there. Yes you have an album. Click 'User CP', top left of screen, then in the left hand menu look for 'Pictures & Albums'. Follow the prompts then paste the image code from below the pic into your post. The image will appear full size in your post. The forum software will automatically resize large images.

3. Upload them to a hosting site like photobucket and insert links in your post, much like method 2, but without auto resizing.

I prefer method 2 because it's much less likely that a future traveller, who has done a search for your particular model of lathe, say, will be frustrated by the 'this image has been moved or deleted' icon. We've all been there.

The other thing I don't like about photobucket is images can appear too large for my screen. That means that whole page of posts adjusts to the width of the photo so you have to scroll left and right to read the text. Very annoying. (Dave, are you listening?)

[Holycross]

2nd try for the picture.

Thanks Bryan

Mark

[Dave J]

That picture came through fine.:2tsup: Welcome to the forum.
It looks like a good project you should start a thread about it as a lot of us here would be interested in watching you progress..

Dave

[WillyInBris]

New guy here with an AL320 H&F.
Building a cnc AL320, which now runs.
Seems like the attachment isn't working.:?
How do I attach a picture of the lathe?

Any suppliers in Perth for way oil?

Mark


Love to see a video of it cutting away any reason you picked the AL320 to CNC what are you going to do with tool changes?

Lots of questions but I will leave them for a thread that you really need to start :D :2tsup:

I was thinking of doing the same on my C6 but decided I really need to learn hoe to use a lathe properly before I CNC it.

[Holycross]

Dave & Willy,

Thanks for the encouragement. I'll start new thread later this week on the build. Have to find the video and updated pictures.


Bought the Al320 for the size-vs-cost when I bought the machine.

I'm using a BX quick change tool post I bought from CDCO in the US.

Mark

[Franklin]

Here's a pic of my old worn out lathe.
If anyone can tell me what make it is, it would be good.
Has surfacing and facing feed, came with a complete set of changewheels, including metric, fixed steady, large 4 jaw and faceplate, Threading die holder, heaps of two piece dies, etc.
It is missing the gap bed piece.

It is very worn, but if I lock everything down it can almost cut round.

It has been a very good first lathe, cost $175, many years ago, and has turned all sorts of stuff.

Its great for wood work!
frank.

[.RC.]

Interesting.. It has the handwheel on the right like a British design, but has V ways, which given it's vintage you would not have seen on British lathes as they were flat bed...

Might be locally made..

[new_guy90]

I know i have seen that MB on the headstock leg before have you looked on Lathe (http://www.lathes.co.uk/)........ i would say its European

[Franklin]

I know i have seen that MB on the headstock leg before have you looked on Lathe (http://www.lathes.co.uk/)........ i would say its European

I have emailed Tony, his response
"It might be a 1920s version of this machine:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/ixl/page2.html (http://www.lathes.co.uk/ixl/page2.html)

These were, possibly, built by Ehrlich:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/ehrlich/ (http://www.lathes.co.uk/ehrlich/)
"
It shows some similarities to IXL, but would like an idea of what the MB stands for.
There is nothing on any of the thread or feed rate plates. There is a VEEM sticker on it. I think they must have refurbished it.

frank

[Jon_77]

My new (to me) Victor lathe.

Haven't used it yet, still sorting out some tooling and doing some cleaning, fluid changes, and I'm waiting on the arrival of a DRO kit for it.

[Stustoys]

Could it be BM? There is a company listed Bond's Maximus but a quick look can't find anything that looks like your machine.
Stuart

[Bryan]

Welcome Jon. Nice looking machine. What are the vitals? Envelope, power etc. Is this an upgrade? Doesn't look like a first lathe.

[Stustoys]

Welcome Jon,
Congrads on your purchase. I have lathe envy :kickcan:

Does that size camloc spindle have a replaceable register?

Stuart