How to mount a vise to a lathe for milling

[Bryan]

Can anyone suggest how to fix a 2.5" toolmaker's vice to my compound rest? See pics. The compound will then mount to an angle bracket for milling.

I'd rather not drill holes in the compound, but even if I did, I can't really see how to do it. You could screw from below, but the vise seems quite hard; I don't fancy my chances of drilling and tapping it. There isn't really room for the type of hold-down you'd use on a table. Be a shame to resort to clunky bracketry.

I knew I didn't have an answer to this question when I bought it, but when ozmestore's price dropped from $79 to $55 I just grabbed one before he changed his mind. I have to say I'm impressed with the unit. It appears quite solid and well made. There must be a knack to operating it though...

[Stustoys]

Hi Bryan
I'd make something like this. Think of it more as a table extension than chucky bracketry. Then you can drill and tap along the side to mount clamps. You could make it 20mm longer each end, if it will clear. Or is this the sort of thing you are trying to avoid?
I'll add a picture of my clamps if I ever get out into my shed ;)

How is that thread held into the compund slide? It looks like some sort of insert.
I'd like a second bolt at the other end.
Stuart

[nadroj]

That vice looks pretty good for the money.
Can you, instead of mounting it to the compound slide, attach it to the cross slide instead? Wouldn't the job be too high if it's mounted to the compound? Are you after the ability to machine angles?

Jordan

[Bryan]

Stustoys, that would work. Yes that's an insert I made so I could easily remove the toolpost, um, post. It's 7/16 UNF and pressed and keyed. Seems sturdy enough. I could do a similar one at the other end. So this plate would be what, 16mm in the middle be enough?

My only issue would be, it's adding further offset, which will already be a fair bit. Might have to live with that.

Jordan, the compound will mount vertically on an angle bracket. The idea is to create a vertical slide for basic 3 axis milling.

[Stustoys]

Here is a picture of the clamps I made up for my vice. They bolt it to a piece of 100 x 10mm, which is clamped to the compound slide with a long(200mm) tee nut. The good thing about getting the bolt lines outside of the compound is you can use longer bolts and not worry about them bottoming out.
For yours I would think a piece of 100??(not sure how wide your compound is) x 15mm, machined to 10mm in the middle would do.

Is that nut pressed from the back with a shoulder on it?

Stuart

[eskimo]

bugga..... they are $79 again

[nadroj]

I know you'd rather not, but could you put a couple of studs in the compound? The recesses on each end of the vice could maybe be slotted by grinding to accept the studs, and use nuts to tighten.

Jordan

[Dave J]

bugga..... they are $79 again

Eskimo,
You might be looking at the wrong one, there up to $60 but you will have to wait until he relists another one because I was buying a few other thing off him and bought one of them as well at that price.
http://completed.shop.ebay.com.au/i.html?_nkw=63MM-2.5%22QUICK%20ACTION%20PRECISION%20TOOLMAKERS'%20VISE%20(QKG)&rt=nc&LH_Complete=1&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283&_rdc=1

Bryan,
You have a good eye for a bargain thanks, but you know how to make a bloke spend money putting up bargains like that.lol
I know you got yours for $55 but I think even for the $60 I paid, they are a good buy. I have been wanting one for the mill.
I have found he is altering the prices a lot lately, up, down you don't know from day to day what he will relist them at, or revise the listing.

With your problem of fitting the vise to the compound, I think a 6-10mm plate on top so you can tap it for hold downs would be the way I would go.
To bolt the plate onto the compound, you could either drill another hole on top at the other end (I wouldn't) and counter sink the heads or make an angle bracket to go down the side on the hand wheel end and drill and tap the end to hold it down. If you have a welder you could weld a piece of flat bat onto the end of the plate to make the angle to go over the end.

Ozmestore
I know he is getting a bad name in the other thread about fake bid's, but I find he is a good seller with regard to customers. Two weeks ago I thought I would buy one of the MT3 live centre kits he has, because there have been a few jobs I could have done with one of the cone centres.
It turned up fine, but after checking it out I found it had 0.002 thou(0.05mm) runout. I sent him an email and he replied saying to send it back reply paid and refunded my money.
I was disappointed and not wanting to pay Hare and Forbes $209, I sent him an email asking if the next one I bought turned up to have runout, could I return it as well. He replied saying I could with that one as well. Cant be any fairer than that, and it is now $10 cheaper at $75 than the $85 I paid before.

Dave

[Bryan]

Here is a picture of the clamps I made up for my vice. They bolt it to a piece of 100 x 10mm, which is clamped to the compound slide with a long(200mm) tee nut. The good thing about getting the bolt lines outside of the compound is you can use longer bolts and not worry about them bottoming out.
For yours I would think a piece of 100??(not sure how wide your compound is) x 15mm, machined to 10mm in the middle would do.

Is that nut pressed from the back with a shoulder on it?

Stuart


Stuart, thanks for the pics and the suggestions. Yes the insert is shouldered. I don't quite get the long t-nut in your description. I can see countersunk screws that look like they hold the plate down. And it looks like you mount your vice across the compound. I assume how it sits in the photo is the actual orientation? Is it better that way or just easier in your case? Cos I hadn't really considered that option. Not sure it would help me much though.


I know you'd rather not, but could you put a couple of studs in the compound? The recesses on each end of the vice could maybe be slotted by grinding to accept the studs, and use nuts to tighten.

Jordan

Jordan, I don't think those recesses are deep enough. Unless I'm misunderstanding...



With your problem of fitting the vise to the compound, I think a 6-10mm plate on top so you can tap it for hold downs would be the way I would go.
To bolt the plate onto the compound, you could either drill another hole on top at the other end (I wouldn't) and counter sink the heads or make an angle bracket to go down the side on the hand wheel end and drill and tap the end to hold it down. If you have a welder you could weld a piece of flat bat onto the end of the plate to make the angle to go over the end.


Dave, my only problem with that idea, if I understand correctly, is that 'tail' mount would not really have any downforce. I think it's maybe worth one more hole in the top to get that extra rigidity. Or do you think drilling the top would weaken it more than drilling the sides?

Thanks, I appreciate all your suggestions. I'll work up a sketch this evening.

[Dave J]

I don't think it would weaken it, the only reason I wouldn't drill a hole is for appearances sake for selling my lathe latter.
Looking at your photo of the compound you maybe able to get 2x6mm taped holes either side in the other end if you want to go with the top hole idea. That way the plate would be held down in a triangle bolt pattern and be less likely to want to rock on the compound.
The hold downs I have seen made up for these vises are made out of a square with a round turned on one end like the crummy picture I drew below.
Mounting it with hold downs instead of bolted strait to the compound would allow you to move the vise up or down depending on the job instead of being limited to the compound travel. You could tap 3 or 4 holes down both sides in the plate for the hold downs to be moved to suit.
Dave
Edit
Just thinking about it and if you did go with the 2 x 6mm holes, latter on if you needed to cover them up you could always put 2 of those ball oilers in them. A lot of lathes come with oilers in that position from factory for oiling the compound ways.

[Stustoys]

Bryan, sorry for the confusion. My compound has a wide tee slot across the top so the plate runs across. You can see part of the end of the tee nut in the close up. As the vice is clamped in the picture the handle would be at the top(the same way as yours in your first picture) . I'd set it up and take a picture but the compound is set at the minute and it wont really help with yours.
The picture were just to give you an idea of the clamps you could use.
Stuart

[Bryan]

Bryan, sorry for the confusion. My compound has a wide tee slot across the top so the plate runs across. You can see part of the end of the tee nut in the close up. As the vice is clamped in the picture the handle would be at the top(the same way as yours in your first picture) . I'd set it up and take a picture but the compound is set at the minute and it wont really help with yours.
The picture were just to give you an idea of the clamps you could use.
Stuart

Ok, I get it now. Thanks.

Dave, I like your thinking.

I just wanted to add that the vise only looks wonky in my shots because the movable jaw is not sitting properly. Everything lines up real nice.

[eskimo]

Thanks Dave

[Stustoys]

One other thing I forgot to say, however you choose to do it. Make sure it matches the top of the compund slide or it may twist the slide enough when you do the bolts up that it wont slide.
One wonders how I would know that :roll:
Stuart

[Gerbilsquasher]

At the risk of repeating something already said, perhaps make up an adaptor plate? The underside of the plate could be machined to form a very shallow 'U' shape, maybe 5mm deep (with square inside corners of course). The inside of the 'U' would be a few thou bigger than the outside dimension of the top of the compound slide. Once bolted down these shoulders would prevent the vise from twisting. Another threaded insert (or tapped hole) cound be used at the back of the adaptor plate to hold it at that end. Two, one either side, would be better. The holes on the adaptor plate might have to be counterbored so the heads of the bolts don't interfere with the underside of the vise. Smaller counterbores would be needed if hex socket bolts are used.

Then drill and tap to suit the vice. When the vice is removed, a couple of grub screws could be screwed in to make it look like the holes were meant to be there, and keep junk out.

A good chunk of 20mm flat bar would do the trick. Bright mild steel would give a more professional finish, and you wouldn't have to machine off the scale for the same result.

You could get away with perhaps two M6 grade 12.9 bolts at the far end. This shouldn't weaken the compound slide too much.

I have assumed you have access to a mill and counterbores to make this happen, apologies if you haven't got there yet! Might be a chicken and egg problem, you can't mill on your lathe until you mill an adaptor plate:((. I am sure a friendly forum member in your area could mill a plate for you, or even send it in the post?

[Stustoys]

Just had another idea(which i dont think anyone has come up with).
Its hard to see in your pictures just how big that "lip" is.
But I think my picture will explain better than me.
Stuart
P.S. just to be clear, the clamps I have added are to hold the plate to the top of the compoind(yes they look just the same as the clamps in my pictures holding the vice to the plate.)

[Gerbilsquasher]

Just had another idea(which i dont think anyone has come up with).
Its hard to see in your pictures just how big that "lip" is.
But I think my picture will explain better than me.
Stuart
P.S. just to be clear, the clamps I have added are to hold the plate to the top of the compoind(yes they look just the same as the clamps in my pictures holding the vice to the plate.)

Nice sketch. Inventor?

Even a lip of a few mm would be sufficient. The thin part of the clamp block would act like a pivot and pull the clamps inwards when the bolts were tightened.

[Dave J]

Thanks Dave

He has listed another one if your after it.
63MM-2.5"QUICK ACTION PRECISION TOOLMAKERS' VISE (QKG) - eBay, Clamps, Vices, Metalworking, Industrial. (end time 13-Sep-10 09:25:10 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/63MM-2-5-QUICK-ACTION-PRECISION-TOOLMAKERS-VISE-QKG-/270621861523?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15)
He combines post if you send a message asking and saying you want standard post instead of express.
I got the vise, live centre kit and a MT adapter sent for $28 to NSW which saved me $18, you might get better rates being closer.
Dave

[Bryan]

Gerbilsquasher, an adapter plate certainly seems the go. Attached is a sketch of how I'm seeing it. To get around the milling problem (it would be too big anyway I think), I'd use separate strips and screw them to the main plate. Then I don't have to outsource it. The actual sizing will depend on what I can get locally. I'd be aiming to make it all snug enough that it self-locates. The vise can live on the plate and the whole assembly be dropped onto the milling rig with a minimum of fuss.

Stuart, your latest idea is a logical and clever development. The best ideas seem obvious in hindsight! And easily adapted to what I've proposed. The lip is only about 3 mill but I reckon you'd get away with it, especially if you can grip the full length. Hang on, just thought of a snag. Could foul the nuts that hold the compound down. Will have to look at that. To the shed!

[Gerbilsquasher]

Gerbilsquasher, an adapter plate certainly seems the go. Attached is a sketch of how I'm seeing it. To get around the milling problem (it would be too big anyway I think), I'd use separate strips and screw them to the main plate. Then I don't have to outsource it. The actual sizing will depend on what I can get locally. I'd be aiming to make it all snug enough that it self-locates. The vise can live on the plate and the whole assembly be dropped onto the milling rig with a minimum of fuss.

Stuart, your latest idea is a logical and clever development. The best ideas seem obvious in hindsight! And easily adapted to what I've proposed. The lip is only about 3 mill but I reckon you'd get away with it, especially if you can grip the full length. Hang on, just thought of a snag. Could foul the nuts that hold the compound down. Will have to look at that. To the shed!

Sketch looks good. Bolting the locator plates solves having to mill the groove. You could even slot the holes on one side to make them adjustable so that you tighten the bolts after pressing the locator plate hard up against the side of the compound slide. Then the top bolts can be tightened. You could carefully file the holes in the locator plate until they were 'obrounds'.

The clamps, if you wanted to go that way (ie Stustoys design) could maybe be strategically positioned to avoid fouling on the mounting bolts, or maybe a large chamfer on the bottom outside corner?

Amazing what we can do by sharing a few brain cells! I envy the time you have available for you to tinker, I currently have to focus on renovations to get the house on the market :( Then I can afford a bigger shed at our new place :D

[Stustoys]

Bryan, the reason I used seprate clamps was so there is no chance of the clamps trying to bend things.
As far as you drawing goes, I'm not sure the 5mm plates on the top (either side of the vice) are nessery. They may get in the way if you are trying to clamp a work piece directly to the plate without the vice. If you feel the sideways support is nessery you could incorporant an each step in the vice clamp blocks.
See the left clamp of your butchered drawing ;)
Stuart

[Bryan]

Bryan, the reason I used seprate clamps was so there is no chance of the clamps trying to bend things.
As far as you drawing goes, I'm not sure the 5mm plates on the top (either side of the vice) are nessery. They may get in the way if you are trying to clamp a work piece directly to the plate without the vice. If you feel the sideways support is nessery you could incorporant an each step in the vice clamp blocks.
See the left clamp of your butchered drawing ;)
Stuart

Stuart, the idea of the strips was not so much for support, but location. Or rather, alignment. I want to minimise the fussing with indicators each time I mount it. As to mounting workpieces direct to the plate, that's something I never considered. I reckon if I want that function I should make a separate t-slot table. I'm all for versatility, but there's something to be said for focus as well. I'll have to mull that one over some more.

Which kind of leads to my next question. A slight digression but... I got the slide mounted to the angle plate today, and merrily plonked my dial indcator against the side, with the base on the bed and proceeded to wind the slide up and down, murmuring with satisfaction at the tiny motion of the needle. If it seems too good to be true... Finally it dawned on me that I was proving nothing, that it would always read true, regardless of any inclination in the slide. Because there's no reference axis. I can't really explain it, and I don't think I have to. The point is: How do I test the verticularity - maybe plumb is the word - of my slide. I know that once I have a horizontal surface mounted to it (eg vise) I can indicate that against the cross slide, but that still doesn't prove the vertical slide is vertical. :think:

Gerbilsquasher, being on indefinite unpaid sick leave does allow some time to play and I'm grateful for that. I'm not always up to it though. And it doesn't do much for the income either. Hang in there, your time will come.

[Dave J]

Hi,
You could sit a square on top of some packers on the flats of the ways. Then put the dial indicator on the compound over touching the square.
The only other way I see doing it is to bolt the hole angle bracket to a face plate in the lathe (up side down would do to get to it easy) and then put a dial indicator on the carriage touching the side of the compound and run the carriage back and forth.
This would work as long as your cross slide is true in height to the ways at each end.

Dave

[Gerbilsquasher]

Stuart, the idea of the strips was not so much for support, but location. Or rather, alignment. I want to minimise the fussing with indicators each time I mount it. As to mounting workpieces direct to the plate, that's something I never considered. I reckon if I want that function I should make a separate t-slot table. I'm all for versatility, but there's something to be said for focus as well. I'll have to mull that one over some more.

Which kind of leads to my next question. A slight digression but... I got the slide mounted to the angle plate today, and merrily plonked my dial indcator against the side, with the base on the bed and proceeded to wind the slide up and down, murmuring with satisfaction at the tiny motion of the needle. If it seems too good to be true... Finally it dawned on me that I was proving nothing, that it would always read true, regardless of any inclination in the slide. Because there's no reference axis. I can't really explain it, and I don't think I have to. The point is: How do I test the verticularity - maybe plumb is the word - of my slide. I know that once I have a horizontal surface mounted to it (eg vise) I can indicate that against the cross slide, but that still doesn't prove the vertical slide is vertical. :think:

Gerbilsquasher, being on indefinite unpaid sick leave does allow some time to play and I'm grateful for that. I'm not always up to it though. And it doesn't do much for the income either. Hang in there, your time will come.

...sounds like a good start!

Sorry to hear of your incapicitation, I recently had back surgery myself. I believe a piece of disc had been floating around for years and suddenly let go. Everything went numb below the waist, and I couldn't take more than a few steps without falling over. The surgeon pulled out a piece of disc about the size of the average adult male thumb. Luckily the surgery went well, I made a quick recovery, and had an understanding boss (not a Workcover job either- I'd had back pain for close to ten years, I know the reason why, and it wasn't my current employer's fault). There were moments when the future, and my family's future, looked bleak.

It does put everything into perspective, and despite my whinge about renovating, there are people worse off than I am. I could still pay my mortgage in a wheelchair, but potential paraplegia would have meant I would find it difficult to play with my lathe or mill, which was really my only concern while lying on my back in hospital. Sometimes you need these things to keep you going. I hope your situation improves.

[Stustoys]

Bryan, I'm not really sure it matters much if it isn't vertical, the milling cutter is going to be just the same as the dial indictor(i'm assuming you won't be using larger cutters that would show up tram errors).
If you have some parallels, you could set one up in a four jaw, with a dial indicator (reading on the bottom of the parallel) on your compound(at the bottom of its travel), turning the chuck 180 degrees adjusting until you get the same reading on both ends, then move your compound slide and the indictor shouldnt move.
Hope I have been clear

Stuart

[Stustoys]

I take what I said in my last post back. It does need to be vertical. While tram error may not worry you with small cutters on face cuts, it may give you issues if you change the "depth" and assume that the faces will be at 90 degrees to each other.
Stuart

[Bryan]

Yeah I figured it might be handy to know the X & Y feeds were square. I'm not with you on the parallel in the chuck. You're aiming to get it vertical, then read off it, right? I get that, but not the turning the chuck 180 deg bit. How do you know it's 180 deg?

[Stustoys]

At the bottom of the compounds travel, set the indictor on the bottom end of the parallel at bottom dead center. You what the parallel vertical enough that the indictor doesnt move off it as you wind the compund up later.
Turn the chuck 180 degree, it has to be pretty close or the indictor wont be on the parallel(unless you have very wide parallels). A wood spacer between the front jaw and the way will make it closer if you wish.
Once both ends of the parallel read the same it must be at 90 degrees to the spindle axis.
If you want some pictures let me know and I'll set up what I mean. English is not my strong point hehe
Stuart

[pipeclay]

If you place a parallel in the vice on your compound and leave enough sticking out that you can get your indicator on to the face of it,mount your indicator onto the face of your spindle face plate or chuck.

Wind your cross slide in and out until you have zero across the face this will be vertical for your vice.

Use the same setup to check the edge of the parallel this will indicate the the vice is parallel to the spindle.

[Bryan]

Stuart, I think I get it now. You're reading the edge that faces the tailstock. But that's not the axis that I'm concerned with. That's fixed by the angle plate, which I'm giving the benefit of the doubt. I'm interested in the rotational axis, the same as the spindle. Just to illustrate, say it was 30 degrees out. If you looked from the tailstock end, it would be pointing to 1 o'clock. Or 11 o'clock.

Pipeclay, I think I understand you but I don't see how either test answers the question above.

[Bryan]

Hi,
You could sit a square on top of some packers on the flats of the ways. Then put the dial indicator on the compound over touching the square.
The only other way I see doing it is to bolt the hole angle bracket to a face plate in the lathe (up side down would do to get to it easy) and then put a dial indicator on the carriage touching the side of the compound and run the carriage back and forth.
This would work as long as your cross slide is true in height to the ways at each end.

Dave

Dave, I think you're the only one with an answer so far. I'd be happy with that if I could then index it somehow so I didn't have to repeat it every time. But for practical purposes the square off the bed method is probably fine, if applied with care. Are the tops of the Vees not considered true? I've noticed in other threads the flats seem to be the recommended reference plane

.

[Stustoys]

Sorry Bryan, I thought that was what you wanted to check. "against the side" see I told you my english wasnt great ;)

Not sure this idea would work without some sort of spindle lock. You could clamp a square in the chuck across the lathe then indicate along one face with the cross slide, then along the face at 90 degrees with the compound slide. The same error over the same distance would mean that you were at 90 degree, so you wouldnt have to set the square up super level it just needs to be repeatable.

Anyone see a problem with this?
Stuart

[Dave J]

I have measured mine and the V's on my lathe are not true to the flats. I think the tops are just rough planed when getting made.
Another check before doing any thing would be to measure from the top of the cross slide to the flats to make sure it is the same both ends, If it's not it will upset the squareness as well. It should be the same but it is worth a quick check.

The way Pipe clay explained about using a parallel in the vise jaws will work as well and is a good easy setup idea. If you do it that way be sure to indicate the vise to the compound travel first before doing it.

For most jobs I think something true set on parallels across the flats and the square held against the side of the compound would do.
Using the shank of drill bit's laid down or HSS lathe tooling can be used instead of parallels for this job as well if you don't have them.
Dave

[Bryan]

Ok there's some good ideas here about dialing in. I think I'll have to get my hands on it and have a play before I can think about it much more.

I picked up some materials for the adapter plate and clamps today. I've simplified the design so it's easier to make, pretty much following Stuart's suggestions. I can add locating stops later if I want. The advantages of this layout are (1) no drilling into the machine, and (2) you can slide the whole plot up & down. I intend to use 4 pairs of clamps so it should be plenty secure. And I've gone with 16 mm plate so there'll be no rigidity issues. Might need a crane to lift it, mind. :C

I've lined up the holes so I have the option of using one bolt to hold both clamps. I think the sketch shows what I mean. The bottom clamps are tapped. It's a bit of a compromise, but I just can't resist. Speak now or forever hold your peace. :U

[Dave J]

That looks like a good setup, are you still going to use the one bolt hole so it holds the plate to the compound? Other wise everything will come apart when you undo the clamps.

Dave

[Bryan]

I was hoping with the bolts loose, the whole vise/plate assembly would stay in a lump, but be free to slide up & down the compound. The bolts pass through holes in the plate remember. So as long as my clearances are reasonable nothing can go too far. I think. You've got me worried now. And no, I didn't want to use that hole because I want that ability to slide. Guess I could slot the plate. But that doesn't appeal somehow.

On reflection it might be better to separate the 2 clamping functions. That's ok, I have an idea that should give me either option.

[Dave J]

Hi,
I was just thinking of it sitting vertical and once you release the clamps the hole lot which is fairly heavy will want to drop down.
You could put several holes down the middle of the plate to move it up or down.
Dave.

[Stustoys]

How far to you think you would need/want to move it vertically before moving the clamps?
If you are just talking about "a couple of holes pinches" you could add a screw to the top to stop it dropping when the clamps are undone.
I've got three ideas as I cant really see your the dial end of compound slide well.
I've left out a lot of details, I hope you can work out what I mean. The black is the table you are adding, grey is the top slide of your compound, green is threaded brackets, red is a shouldered pin that screws into the existing hole in your compound.
The two ideas on the right have a slot cut in the table.

Stuart

[Bryan]

Stuart, those ideas all look good. However I don't think I'll be actually be needing to adjust it at all. There's kind of only one logical position for it. The drawings show the extents of the vertical travel in relation to centre. The vise is shown as low as it can go without fouling the saddle wings. So there's not much point going lower (you could but with very limited cross travel). And there's certainly no point going higher. So I think that's where it will live.

That still leaves assembly. I'm thinking of doing that on the flat and lifting the whole shebang into place, angle plate and all. If that proves too heavy or awkward, I'll probably just come up with a simple stop of some sort. Or maybe 2 or three holes in the middle, like Dave said. For now I've got enough headaches just making the simplest possible version, so I'll leave the refinements till later. :timid:

As always, I really appreciate the input.

[Stustoys]

Well good luck getting it up and running. Glad to have helped and hoping that I didn't add to much confusion.
Nice drawing, better than my "paint" efforts. What do you use?
How much compound travel do you have? Mine is 85mm so the position of the work V lathe center height was pretty important.
Stuart

[Dave J]

Hi Bryan,
I got my vise today thanks to you:2tsup:and it looks to be really good quality and nicely finished all over, also it came in a timber box.
The test report has the manufacturing date written in buy hand and is 5/5/2006, must be old stock. What date was yours?
I will check it over in the shed tomorrow to see if the accuracy of the report is true and see if this live centre kit is running true, this centre kit came in a different type of plastic blow case than last time.
Thanks again for the info, Dave

[Bryan]

Mine says 2006.1.12. Is that dec or jan? Either way it's a long time.
Anyway, glad I could help. How you planning to use yours?

[Dave J]

They write it backwards so it's the 12 of the first month 06. The Chinese mills are stamped the same.
I will be using mine on the mill, clamped in my larger vise for quick setup for angle milling of small parts.

Dave

[Bryan]

Well good luck getting it up and running. Glad to have helped and hoping that I didn't add to much confusion.
Nice drawing, better than my "paint" efforts. What do you use?
How much compound travel do you have? Mine is 85mm so the position of the work V lathe center height was pretty important.
Stuart

Stuart, my compound travel is a bit over 100mm, but things are getting 'fast & loose' that far out. :o

I'm using a clunky old thing called QCad. Strictly 2D. There's better things around now and if you're a windows user it seems there's oodles of cheap or free options, much more than for Mac. Anyway I'm kind of used to it (which counts for a lot), but it's been annoying me on the forum because the colours look bright & crisp within the app, but turn to mud when exported as an image. PNG format seems a bit better, but only when viewed actual size. :crash:

[Stustoys]

2D is fine by me. Free is fine as well. I'll have a look around.


but it's been annoying me on the forum because the colours look bright & crisp within the app, but turn to mud when exported as an image. PNG format seems a bit better, but only when viewed actual size. :crash:
Don't know much about Macs. But I have a cheat I use alot in windows that might help, just "print screen", then paste it into paint and save as jpeg. It may not fix your color problem though.
Stuart