Narrow beads with skew

[Tiger]

This one is more for the Skew experts but happy for anyone to chime in. As reported in an earlier thread, I have changed the grinding angle of the skew to a sharper angle and this has meant a slight modification to the way I now roll beads. Narrow beads are particularly challenging with the skew chisel, mine usually are fine at the top but look ordinary at their bases in that there's usually ridges and the finish is not quite clean.

The skew is probably not the weapon of choice for narrow beads but what adjustment if any would be needed in technique to make them more successful?

[John Lucas]

If your getting less than a perfect cut on the lower part of the sides of beads then you are probably pushing the tool too fast. Remember the wood is moving slower as you get closer to the center. You have to move the tool slower to get the same quality of cut.
As you rotate the tool when cutting a bead you are also lifting the handle as you cut the sides. Just slow down this lift and let the tool do the work.
A steeper grind requires a little more concentration especially on the sides. I will often clean up the sides with the toe of the skew. Especially steep sided narrow beads if I haven't been turning for a week or so. I kind of lose my touch and have to cut a few to get it back.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

It's just practice, really.

As you found out, changing the angle changes the way you use the tool and your muscles need time to adjust to the new "way it feels right."

So if you could roll them before the angle change then it's not technique. Just your "muscle learning" getting in the way.

[Tiger]

Thanks to John and Skew.

John, your suggestion of cleaning up with the toe of the skew helps.

I should have pointed out that by narrow I mean a width of 2 mm or less. I gather from the number of responses that not many people use the skew on narrow beads which raises the question of what tool to use works best for these narrow beads. Finish is crucial so that is why I use the skew but she can be difficult at times.

[John Lucas]

To do them that narrow and be absolutely sure I would get them correct here's what I would do. If they are by themselves I would use the parting tool to set them off. Then use the toe of the skew to cut both sides. Then I would lay the skew on it's side and round over the top of the bead. Yea I know that's cheating but it works.
If you need to do several of these beads right next to each other then I would skip the parting tool and just use the toe of the skew.
Normally I turn beads from the center out and down but with them being that narrow there's just so little time to get from the center out over the edge and that requires a lot of movement of the skew. I would have to practice a dozen or so on some scrap to be sure I could do them. The other method I described will certainly work.

[Tiger]

That's good John, I will give your idea a try.

[RETIRED]

For beads that small I would use a 7mm or 10mm parting tool.

[Tiger]

For beads that small I would use a 7mm or 10mm parting tool.

Are you saying that even you wouldn't use a skew for those beads.

I thought you used a skew for everything including shaving:U.

[RETIRED]

Are you saying that even you wouldn't use a skew for those beads.

I thought you used a skew for everything including shaving:U.Only if I was showing off.:wink:

[Tiger]

Only if I was showing off.:wink:

Judging from what I saw last time I saw you, I think your skew needs a sharpen as it didn't take all the hair off that beard. Perhaps you should try a Tormek......:).

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Only if I was showing off.:wink:

There are times that you don't? :innocent:

[RETIRED]

There are times that you don't? :innocent:Yep. When I am in a hurry and the customers are whinging.:D

[Frank&Earnest]

Thanks to John and Skew.

John, your suggestion of cleaning up with the toe of the skew helps.

I should have pointed out that by narrow I mean a width of 2 mm or less. I gather from the number of responses that not many people use the skew on narrow beads which raises the question of what tool to use works best for these narrow beads. Finish is crucial so that is why I use the skew but she can be difficult at times.

How far apart and how deep do they need to be? 2mm is about this distance: > <. Are they really that small?

[NeilS]

For beads that small I would use a 7mm or 10mm parting tool.

Ah well, I get some things right.... :U

.....

[Tiger]

How far apart and how deep do they need to be? 2mm is about this distance: > <. Are they really that small?

They can be for some of the small stuff that I do.

Even on some of the larger spindles that I do the beads are relatively narrow say 5mm or so.

[Frank&Earnest]

Something like this?

[Tiger]

Yes.

[Frank&Earnest]

You might be interested in my tamed skew, then. :D

[John Lucas]

You might consider making a beading tool. They are quite easy to make. Take a flat blade screwdriver. Drill a hole hear the tip with the appropriate size drill. Then cut or grind away metal until you have a half a bead shape. The grind the sides down the spacing you want between the beads or you can grind them down to a point if you want no spacing. Grind some relief on the front. To sharpen I just polish the top surface using diamond hones. I polish it close to a mirror finish.
I make mine using Drill rod. I heat the tip red hot and flatten it. Then I go through the same procedure as above. Then I heat treat it to harden the cutting surface. This makes a thicker tool that chatters less than the screwdrivers.

[Frank&Earnest]

Second that. For repetitive work that's what I would do also. Then again, I find more satisfaction in tool making than in turning...:D