oops!

[stuffy]

After all the nice things I've said about my Sorby roughing gouge, it goes and does this....
:C

[hughie]

Oooooooooooooooo! :C years ago I broke one of my flat work chisels and welded it back together. Its still going to this day.

[orraloon]

Stuffy,
A big catch or did you drop it?
Provided it was not tool abuse Sorby may come to the rescue in the intrest of brand image. Should be worth a try.
Regards
John

[HazzaB]

Hey Stuffy,

That looks like it would have hurt:C, Like John said, did it catch or did it Fall???

If you Like I could have a go at welding it for you. I have some rods that are for just this type of job.

HazzaB

[rsser]

Well if your tool goes and 'does things' maybe get out of the game before one of them 'goes and hurts you'.

[Sawdust Maker]

Ah
the big question is "what were you doing at the time?"

[stuffy]

I guess I can't really blame my tool for my own carelessness.:doh:

Still I've done sillier things with this tool without trouble.

I was roughing down a 100 x 100 blank of radiata to about 25mm for the handle part of a kraut pounder. I hadn't moved the tool rest so had too much overhang,
and I hit a loose knot.
So yes I should have known better.

Hazza, I'll take you up on your offer. I know nothing about welding. Thanks mate.:2tsup:

I should get a heavier roughing gouge, but I like the shape of the Sorby.

[Sawdust Maker]

Is this there where the P&N roughing gouge is a better bet?

[tea lady]

I was roughing down a 100 x 100 blank of radiata to about 25mm for the handle part of a kraut pounder. I hadn't moved the tool rest so had too much overhang,
and I hit a loose knot.
So yes I should have known better.
:hmm: But the over hang would have still been less the 50mm yes? Wouldn't have thought that would have done too much. I'd call that normal wear and tear. :shrug: I'd try Sorby first before trying to weld it. They might like to know about a fault in their manufacturing. Maybe something in the annealing possess? :think: Maybe they have had others? They won't know unless someone tells 'em. :)

[stuffy]

Thanks for your comments. :2tsup:

Nick I used to have the big P&N roughing gouge and it definitely would be my choice for bigger work. It could really take a hammering, as can all the P&N tools.
What I like about the Sorby shape is I can use it on its side for peeling cuts and smooth planing cuts, even right up to a square pommel.

Tea Lady, the overhang was probably close to 70mm. Allowing for the distance from the centre to the corner, a small gap to the tool rest, the angle of the tool presentation and the point of contact of the tool on the rest it all adds up.

I've had this tool for about 10 years and it was second hand when I got it, it came with one of my earlier lathes, so I can't take it back and complain.
I wouldn't have chosen pine for the handle personally, I thought the handle would have broken before the tool.

It's all a learning experience, at least it didn't fly back and hit me in the face!

:)

[tea lady]

Tea Lady, the overhang was probably close to 70mm. Allowing for the distance from the centre to the corner, a small gap to the tool rest, the angle of the tool presentation and the point of contact of the tool on the rest it all adds up.



:)Oh! Oh well! Welding it to a rod might be a good option then. Or its an excuse to buy another tool! :D (I still don't think 70mm is much of an over hang. Not turning pine anyway. :shrug: )

[stuffy]

Oh! Oh well! Welding it to a rod might be a good option then. Or its an excuse to buy another tool! :D
Probably both !:wink:
(I still don't think 70mm is much of an over hang. Not turning pine anyway. :shrug: )
Me neither. Moving the tool rest just adds to the turning time when doing multiples of the same thing.:no:

[Ozkaban]

One of the chisels I got when I bought my VL200 was a nice Sorby HSS bowl gouge. The previous owner told me that he once had a massive catch and it broke the chisel, but had successfully resharpened it and used it ok.

I sharpened it up and the first time it touched the wood a piece about 8-10mm wide by about 3mm broke off the end and went ka-ching off my face visor. Rest of chisel went in the bin before I could convince myself I could resharpen it.

I'm sure it has absolutely nothing to do with the brand - just luck. Metal with a fracture line in it being poked into a revolving lump of wood. Seriously glad I was wearing the visor though! Just one of those things I guess.

I my case it's quite different to you - I have no idea how the tool was treated prior to my ownership. Everything else was in brilliant nick, but this one obviously broke and was already suspect. Maybe it was dropped badly, maybe a steel fault etc.

Cheers,
Dave

[Nai84]

Hey stuffy

WOW that looks like it would have scared the :censored2: out of you, I hope all your limbs are still intact and I bet you wont do that again in a hurry:yikes:

Nai

[RETIRED]

We occasionally break the tangs on roughing gouges.

The reason that this happens is the the tang on "U" shaped gouges cannot be any more than a thin strip of steel off the base of the "U"

In use, particularly hanging a little too far out from the rest or in heavy cuts, the tang becomes the weak point between the handle and blade and flexes a little. The result is that each time it flexes it gets weaker. Like bending a bit of steel backwards and forwards to break it.

We solve the problem by welding a 1" piece of steam pipe in the base of the "U".

[rsser]

The P&N roughing gouge is milled from rod so has a substantial tang.

OTOH the milling is often pretty rough and the flute needs honing.

[jefferson]

Stuffy,

I reckon your handle is way too long. You've got more leverage than the tool can handle IMHO. All the roughing gouges I've seen bought "handled" came with much shorter handles - and for good reason I think as has explained.

[Sawdust Maker]

I reckon that since time is of the essence that you sharpen both ends and use it unhandled as is want to do
that way when it gets a bit blunt you can just flip it around :2tsup:

[RETIRED]

I reckon that since time is of the essence that you sharpen both ends and use it unhandled as is want to do
that way when it gets a bit blunt you can just flip it around :2tsup:
Nah, too short now.:D