HNT 1" shoulder plane iron slipping

[kman-oz]

The desire to purchase one of Terry's planes was too much and yesterday I gave in. :cool: This is my first HNT plane and having used one at the show yesterday I decided in the moment that I *really* needed one.

I'm slightly disappointed however, that I can't manage to get the iron to stay put. It doesn't appear to come loose, it just moves. as best I can tell the wedge it still perfectly secure, but the iron moves around.

My experience with shoulder planes is limited to the little Muji units with wooden abutments rather than brass like Terry's, but that one exhibits no such fault. Now, normally I'd just take to the tang and wedge with some abrasive so that I get a little grip, but I'm hesitant to bugger around with this one. The Master Plane Maker knows better than I, so perhaps you guys might have a better recommendation?

Thanks in advance folks.

[Claw Hama]

I would be talking to Terry before anyone else, I'm sire he can give you the information you need.

[Steve Kirincich]

I have been frustrated with a similar issue on my HNT shoulder planes. One person suggested scraping a slight hollow onto the bottom surface of the wedge. I still need to try this.

[kevjed]

Hi Guys,
I'm sure that you have had a look at Terry's site and his notes on the set up of the shoulder planes: HNT Gordon - Blade Setting for Shoulder Plane (http://www.hntgordon.com.au/bladesettingshoulder.htm)

The first time I tried to use mine I felt the same about it "slipping" until I got a little brave and gave the wedge a little more of a nudge. Then I discovered that the new plane's brass abutment was a little stiff, as it was new. Never had any trouble since. I think that I was just a little unsure of how much of a tap tap was needed. Now, I just give it some, subtle, stick. The tools work well.
Let me know how you go.
All the best
Kevin

[thumbsucker]

I had the same problem with my HNT Gordon spokeshave. I spoke to Terry, and he recommended to ruff up the back of the blade with some 80 grit sand paper, excluding the first 5 mm near the bevel edge. This helps to give the blade some tooth on the bed.

[kman-oz]

G'day Kev! I'm not afraid to give it a hard time, don't worry about that. It also occured to me that I should probably just set the blade, bang the wedge in and leave it to settle for a week. All of the planes I've made do ther best work if I leave the blade set rather than take the blade out when not in use. It's sitting in it's box with the blade set now, so I suspect it might be ok by the weekend.

Helmut, that's what I was going to do anyway, so if Terry agrees, t'will be done!

Thanks Gents.

[sinjin]

Anyone buy the Dovetail planes he had??

[kevjed]

Have at look at this thread Sinjin: http://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/another-new-plane-terry-gordon-112814/

[Sawdust Maker]

Hi Guys,
I'm sure that you have had a look at Terry's site and his notes on the set up of the shoulder planes: HNT Gordon - Blade Setting for Shoulder Plane (http://www.hntgordon.com.au/bladesettingshoulder.htm)

...
Kevin

Anyone have the head dimensions for the setting(?) hammer - I'd like to make my own at some stage
Thanks

[woodsurfer]

I made one , dimensions from AWR hand made tool awards issue 63 255x85x30, the face 30 sqr, works well, Rossco

[kman-oz]

I went into the shed yesterday to see if the situation had changed after leaving the plane set for a few days, it seems I just needed to be patient. Even set for a heavy cut the iron is now solid as a rock.

I made a setting mallet out of pine; 30x30x100mm with a scrap hardwood handle. I don't think it matters much what it is.

[KevM]

Anyone buy the Dovetail planes he had??

Yes, I bought a pair on Sunday.

Haven't unpacked them since getting home though.

[Sawdust Maker]

I made one , dimensions from AWR hand made tool awards issue 63 255x85x30, the face 30 sqr, works well, Rossco

thanks

[sinjin]

Thanks for the link Kevjed.. thet looked very impressive but like you i felt a fence would be a nice option to have.