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fmacdonald
17th November 2010, 03:06 PM
Hi

I am building a steel kit shed that is 6x4m in size with a 35 degree gable roof. I am at the stage of installing the roof cladding to the steel frame. The issue I have is that the wall frames (next to the gutter) are horizontal to the ground and the roof is at 35 degrees, thus every time I try to screw into the metal frame the tek screw goes everywhere except in. Hope the picture makes more sense ;)

Is there a trick to doing this? One suggestion I was given was to glue wood onto of the steel frame.

Cheers

Faulkner

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/FMACDO%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.pnghttp://teahouse.portier-macdonald.com/Screwing%20Up%20The%20Roof.jpg

MICKYG
17th November 2010, 07:15 PM
Faulkner

It looks like the battens are missing going by your diagram. Most shed / garage roofs I have been involved with have battens ( metal or wooden ) running from front to back on the framing. Have a look at some other shed / garage in your area and it will be self expanlitory.

Regards Mike

Oddjob1
17th November 2010, 07:31 PM
Oops, sorry wrong thread, Oh mate, going by the welder thread you had better be careful because by law you should have a qualified plumber to screw your roof down!
In the mean time till the plumbers get hold of this thread, I'd drill a pilot hole first then put your Tek screw in.:wink::roll:

Cheers...Oddjob1

Rowley
17th November 2010, 08:35 PM
To avoid putting dents in the roof you need to screww on the outer edge of the wall section. The easiest way to do this is to use a sliding bevell . As you get to each screw hole slide the bevell under the roof sheet and contact the outer edge of the wall section, add about 5mm to this measurment, centre punch the roof and drill a pilot hole then drive in the screw.
Rowley.

Barry_White
17th November 2010, 08:39 PM
As an old shed salesman and installer one of the reasons it is difficult to put the screws into the fascia purlin is that very few sheds are build with a 35 degree pitch and shed manufacturers don't care if you are going to have a problem.

There are two ways you can overcome the problem. One is to predrill the holes as Oddjob 1 says or you could get a section folded up out of 1.2mm thick gal sheet and fix it to the top of the fascia purlin as per the attached sketch

cultana
17th November 2010, 10:31 PM
Oops, sorry wrong thread, Oh mate, going by the welder thread you had better be careful because by law you should have a qualified plumber to screw your roof down!
Cheers...Oddjob1

:oo: What's that some weird Vic or NSW law??

fmacdonald
18th November 2010, 07:53 AM
thanks for all the ideas, will give the predrilling a go and see how far I get :)

Harry72
18th November 2010, 04:22 PM
:oo: What's that some weird Vic or NSW law??


It is also a SA law...

Harry72
18th November 2010, 04:35 PM
Shouldnt there be a batten/purlin sitting at the bottom of the gable if the angle is to great for screwing?

banjoping
18th November 2010, 05:34 PM
On our sheds we use an angled eave girt which serves as both the top wall girt and an angle roof purlin.

Is is essentially a 1.2mm pressed box section with the top folded at the pitch of the roof. This allows you to screw straight into the structural section.

fmacdonald
20th November 2010, 07:16 AM
The shed i purchased did not come with anything like that, might be that they normally sell sheds with lower pitched roofs.

I did ask the shed company for advice but they have not been bothered to call me back.

Shedblog Au
22nd November 2010, 12:43 PM
Carefully pre drilling the roof sheets then adjusting the angle of the roof tek to assist it penetrating the eave or fascia batten is a method I have used. Just make sure you are careful when it come to pre drilling sheets. Make sure your roof framing is square and you set your first sheet up square as well or you pre drilled sheets may not match your battens when you get to the other end of the shed ;-)

banjoping
22nd November 2010, 04:15 PM
The shed i purchased did not come with anything like that, might be that they normally sell sheds with lower pitched roofs.

I did ask the shed company for advice but they have not been bothered to call me back.

Alot of these companies just want to sell the cheapest kit and do not have installers, so many of them may not even be aware of these types of issues.

We design them with the angled eave girt because we are licensed builders as well as shed builders, so we know that this becomes a problem the more pitched a roof is. So we use the angled eave girt, because it is easier, faster and hassle free, and does not pinch or bend your roof sheets or result in cursing as you try to screw off the roof and not fall off at the same time.