Backyard lineboring

[gallegos]

I needed to line bore a new attachment for the excavator on the farm. Got prices varying from $500 to $2000 to get it done on the horizontal borer or by one of those mobile lineboring guys which all seemed like far too much money so I had a go doing it myself.

Bought some 1 1/4" bright shaft for $20, flange mount bearings for $70, and bolts for $10. Had some angle around to make the bearing mounts out of and a broken 10mm drill bit i ground into the cutting tool. Drove the whole thing using the drill press on its side. I mounted half of a 1/2" socket extension in the drill chuck then had a 1/2" universal joint and socket which drove a bolt I screwed into the end of the shaft. Between the universal joint and the socket it had enough slop to take up the misalignment and I set up the belts on the drill to slip before anything else would break.

Was pretty slow going as the cutter would lose it edge on plasma cut plate very quickly but with a bit of patience I got it all done over the course of a weekend. Got me thinking it wouldn't be too hard to put together a half reasonable line boring rig if you needed to do this sort of thing regularly.

[Anorak Bob]

I love it. Fantastic!

[Dave J]

Nice work,and saves some money. I guess you wont be getting any one in for line boring anymore.
RC did something similar not so long ago but with his mill drill. He posted a video of it as well.

Dave

[.RC.]

Did someone mention line boring :)

YouTube - line borer

Nice setup....

[Avery]

f'in wonderful

You farm blokes always seem to find a better way.

[Stustoys]

Great effort
Whats the rope for? sort of a preload?
The problem with the cutter may have been that the drill isn't hard all the way to the end.
Stuart

[Woodlee]

Well that certainly is a great job , and some very lateral thinking .
Well done .

Did a similar thing a few years back , at a mine where I used to work.
The job was to line bore a bell crank off a 992 Cat loader .
The offending clevis had been welded up to restore metal that was worn away.
We had the bell crank laid out across the workshop floor and levelled up with the clevis laid on the bed of the workshop radial arm drill .
Same deal with flat mounted bearings and used 6" channel iron to mount the bearings onto and weld onto the job after centering the bearing bore with the clevis bores.
The boring bar was a 900mm piece of three inch steel bar with holes drilled through it to take 1/2" diameter HSS tools.
I machined a no 5 morse taper on one end to fit the radial arm drill quill.
The radial arm drill had power feed so this made the job much easier , as we were cutting using two tools the feed rate was rather slow , but it turned out very well .Took two full days to machine the clevis , but saved the company a lot of money .
Since then they have purchased a hydraulic portable line borer .

Further to that ,in Darwin there was a company called Diesel Electrics owned by a German nicknamed Werner the Turner .He built a line boring machine which was powered by an old washing machine motor ,and the power feed was driven using two rear sets of bicycle gears and a chain .
We had him out to the mine on a couple of occasions to line bore the the bushes on the back of D9 bulldozer blades.
It was a wonderful piece of ingenuity and worked very well despite the rather thrown together appearance.

Kev.

[gallegos]

Wish I had seen that video before I started... I did look around but couldnt find any info on doing this with standard type shafts and bearing blocks. Did find one guys using wooden bearings and a power drill though.

The rope is for preload because the drive is just a socket on a nut so needed to be held together. I was also a little worried that the chuck might pull out of the taper if i didn't keep some load on it. Because access on the bearing side was limited I had to bore toward the drill on the ear closest to the drill. After looking at RC's video I think I went overboard on my bearing mounts as I went for an angle frame that was welded on both sides of the hole.

I did wonder about the hardness of the drill bit but it was working (albeit slowly) so I just went with it. The original plan was to use a cemented carbide cutter I have that has a round shank but I am halfway through moving sheds so its lost for the moment.

I keep thinking about how I could make a drive system thats a bit more portable so I think that may be a project in the future.

[Dave J]

Their was a guy on another forum going to build one not so long ago. I think he was going to copy one of the US companies design as it was the easiest.

Dave

[eskimo]

Great effort
Whats the rope for? sort of a preload?
The problem with the cutter may have been that the drill isn't hard all the way to the end.
Stuart

He's a bit lazy....notice he is sitting down on a plastic chair :D