"deckel things"

[Anorak Bob]

GregoryQ,

How about some photos of the freshly painted things you mentioned in the Arboga post?

BT

[Greg Q]

Patience Bob!:) All I have finished is the motor, it's mounting plate, the belt guard and an access door. Beats me why, but I have started from the bottom up. :doh:

I still haven't opened my Caswell's black oxide kit either, figuring I'll do a large bunch of fasteners all at once.

As an aside, I I bought the paint from Wagon Paints, an industrial enamel they mixed to the RAL code (7005 Maus Grey). It is an exact match for the odd bit of hidden paint that I have found on the hidden side of some castings, so I am pretty pleased with that. Dries fast too.

Greg

Oh, and I used a "ceramic" engine block enamel in white to do the inside of the machine in the change gear area. Nice product, fast drying and it looks like a ceramic coating when dry. Autobahn, spray can.

[Anorak Bob]

Greg,

It's heartening to hear that you have stuck with the original colour. I have to look at bright blue brush painted Hercus mill when I enter my shed.

What about gloss level?

The Deckels that I've seen photos of have a satin finish. I can't remember the condition of the NC FP4 I saw, in the flesh, about 5 years ago. I can remember being overwhelmed by it's size and complexity,

The spraying enamel I've used over here has been full gloss and I've had to try to tone it down with a bit of overspray. Not overly consistent.

BT

[Greg Q]

The parts that I've done so far have been with a brush. This enamel flows out so sweetly that it looks like a satin spray job, and I'm very happy with it.

A few years ago I restored a 24" bandsaw and wanted that kind of textured finish that you see on telecommunications equipment. I ended up doing the second coat thick and rich, and far away. I got the pebbles I wanted, but it took a lot of screwing around.

I did my gantry with White Knight epoxy rust paint, applied with a roller. Also a surprisingly good job. (This of course after I bought a nice spray gun which is still new-in-box.:-

Greg

Oops...Just did another piece...disaster. It's only 21º here today, but this paint is drying too quickly (single pack enamel). Bugger. I hate sanding things at all, let alone twice.

[Anorak Bob]

I reckon White Knight is pretty good paint. I used White Knight silver hammertone in a rattle can to refurbish some old Wilco cast iron switch housings about 15 years ago. After daily use over that period, they still look like they were painted yesterday. The little TOUGH drill press was painted with Dulux Quit Rust hammer finish, again from a spray can and that too has proved very durable.

The Waldown drill was painted with a gun. It's a lot shinier than the original factory paint but I had to make a compromise. The table looked like a slice of swiss cheese so I bought a new one which was finished in gloss powdercoat. I split the difference.

Brushwork removes the tiresome process of masking off all the non painted surfaces.
I've used a Windsor and Newton sable brush to apply paint on a number of small parts with reasonable results.

BT

[Greg Q]

Very nice work, Bob. My early Taiwanese drill press table was also sponge-like. (Which is the subject for a rant sometime). No spares, so I bogged it up with a mixture of West epoxy and clean cast iron powder. The colour is wrong, but the material levelled nicely and is slick and hard.

Did you have any love bites in the Schaublin tables? My Deckel tables need a bit of work (not too much though). I think I'll drill and ream the holes and turn cast iron plugs to fit. I have to scrape all these tables flat anyway, so another step in an already long process won't be too bad I hope.

Greg

On another note: On HSM there was a post directing Schaublin users to the Yahoo Schaublin group. Apparently a member recently bought what sounds like a truck load of old Schaublin parts which he is going to be selling on that list over the next couple of years. Maybe some rare #13 gismo will surface?
Greg

[neksmerj]

AB,

That Waldown drill press, looks fantastic. A mate of mine is a Waldown freak, and has amassed quite a few units, all with metal belt guards. The new ones are plastic, with a crappy piano hinge, very disappointing, really looks cheap.

Did you have the paint matched, or was it straight out of the can?

If a standard colour, can you provide more details.

Sorry if I have hi-jacked this post.

Ken

[Greg Q]

AB,

Waldown guards... The new ones are plastic, with a crappy piano hinge, very disappointing, really looks cheap.

Ken

Ken...they look bad because they are bad. The plastic warps, and the fittings fail or fall off. (At least the two that I've helped restore).

I was just over there last week getting some parts. They had quite a few crates of machines. Inbound. Funky writing on the labels. I think it said "ANIHC", but it was upside down. :(

[neksmerj]

Spot on, I too was over at Brobo Waldown factory recently in Moorabbin.

I cannot understand why such a splendid drill press, is fitted with such a flimsy, crappy, ill fitting, guard, and made in ANIHC, upside down.

I reckon it will put a lot of prospective buyers, off. I know it all comes down to cost between a pressed metal guard, and a dreadful moulded plastic one. 50c verses $15.

Not much considering the overall price.

Ken

[Anorak Bob]

Greg,

I nearly choked to death laughing over your "sponge - like" comment. Best description I've heard of that ever too often occuring malady.

Ken,

The colour was eye matched but for some reason "teal blue" comes to mind. I will dig further.

The drill was in a poor state when I bought it for $200 ten years ago. It had the obligatory 4 coats of whatever paint was lying around, the final coat being a "nice" metallic green. The aerated table's replacement cost about $250. The cast iron table elevating handle had been welded to it's shaft simply because a socket screw was missing. I replaced all the other handles with stainless copies. I installed new bearings thoughout and was able to purchase from Brobo a new plastic"handnut" to replace the broken bakelite version, and a metric graduated depth dial.

I cleaned the corrosion off the column by removing the tailstock from my Hercus ARL and supporting the column in a 3 jaw steady. Slow rotation and Scotchbrite did the job.

The drill, whilst marked 2M is actually a 3M because it is fitted with a 3 Morse spindle. To me it's a work of art and a joy to use.

The final photo is of the 13's table. No nibbles. Abundant small scratches. It's been gently caressed.

BT

[Greg Q]

Very nice work Bob, and a huge labour saver for me too: there's no way I'm posting any more of my efforts here:D. My stuff looks like it came out of dummy class in comparison.

Here's my drill press table after repair. Most of those holes went all the way through the table. :aro-d::!

Greg

[Greg Q]

...And before I forget, have a look at what the highly skilled craftsmen did to the vise:

[Stustoys]

Greg I can beat that, from ebay.
Its a little sad to see what someone could do.
Stuart
p.s. that srew would be about 1" in dia

[Greg Q]

Greg I can beat that, from ebay.
Its a little sad to see what someone could do.
Stuart
p.s. that srew would be able 1" in dia

I'm still chuckling as I write. That is a gold medal effort. I do very much like how they even included the screw for punishment.

I don't know why (apart from the Waldown name), but I welded up all the holes in mine. I think it'll be the first project when the mill is running.

[Anorak Bob]

Greg,

When I bought the second Waldown drill as a motor donor, the bloke selling it said it came with the original vise. At the time, Waldown wanted about $290 for the vise so I got pretty excited. I asked him whether it had any holes drilled into it. He said maybe a couple. Talk about sponge. They'd even drilled through the cast in "W" to the point where it was no longer legible. I picked up the one in the photo from an Ebay seller in Adelaide.

Fiora Machinery, the firm I bought my mills and one of my lathes from, are Brobo distributors. They often refurbish school drill presses, Waldown 8SNs, and as you can imagine, most tables feature an arc of drill holes. They fill the holes with Devcon Liquid Steel and machine them flat before sending them off for the next generation to perforate.

A few years ago I picked up a nice large Eclipse vee block on Ebay. Someone had managed to drill a hole about 5/16'' round in the thing. I redrilled the hole, turned up a tight fitting cast iron plug and hammered it home, peening the edge in the process. Filed then scraped it flush. It's hard to find when looking at the block. It's a slightly different shade of cast iron. I hope I never have to do it but I agree with you that it's the only way to tastefully repair a mill table.

BT

[Anorak Bob]

Stuart,

I bet the seller said that it was in good condition.

BT

[Greg Q]

I actually managed to get a bit more done yesterday on the Deckel, so photos are getting close. The contrast between the new paint and the old gunk is astonishing.

Greg

[Woodlee]

Ive been after one of these waldown drills for some time ,they always seem to pop up in the wrong places or are listed as pick up only.
This one is a nice specimen .

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/m/mdOgKqhpaQAwL20E0t7PgcA/140.jpg

Kev.

[Greg Q]

That's one of those high speed drills? I have been on the lookout for one of those too, but only see them when there's something more urgent to get. That particular one is listed by a guy who has acres of rusty crap. It might be the only nice thing he has.

[Bryan]

So what are you resto-types using for filler? Just car bog or something more speshuller?

[Greg Q]

Bryan I use a filler called Micro Fill. It has micro balloons to make it very easy to shape and sand. I paid (I think) $65.00 for a 4kg tin (around 4 litres) at an auto body supply place. 2 or 3 kg is enough for a lathe, mill, saw, and drill.

I have tried the generic Autobahn/Repco/7Eleven fillers-they harden like concrete and are about as hard to sand. They also tend to shrink during curing.

I only started filling castings a few years ago. As much as I hate it, filling doesn't add all that much time to the paint prep and yields a great looking finish. The jury is still out on how durable it is.

Greg

[Bryan]

Thanks Greg. Is this the stuff? (Ebay link) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220701287463). It'll be worth the postage cos I know I won't find it around here.

I've got thick old paint with chunks missing and I ain't stripping it all off so filler it is. And sanding this 'concrete' is getting old.

[Greg Q]

Good find Bryan-that's the stuff. Enjoy
Greg