Hercus Dividing Head

[Anorak Bob]

A bit more about it. All except the head casting and division plate is home made.

A major concern I had about using the head was how easy it was to push the spindle out of alignment if subjected to heavy ( in relation to the size of the Hercus Mill) cutting loads.

My head deviates from the original design because when I made the bracket, I made it in two pieces. The graduated disc had to be a separate piece to facilitate the scribing and punching of the degree markings. The original part is a one piece casting. The head body is fastened to the bracket with a single 3/8"W bolt. Something I thought a bit scant after a number of disasters when slippage occured.

After a cock up yesterday when I used the head while drilling the hole in the little spindle lock, I decided to pull the thing apart to see if a modification could be made to improve the locking of the parts.

The solution could not have been more simple.

I removed the generously applied smear of Hoppes Gun Grease from the adjoining surfaces that I had placed there on assembly, three years ago!!

Nothing to do with the design after all.

Live and learn

Bob.

[Dave J]

Nice work Bob, How did you go about making the base plate, is it welded or bolted together?

Dave

[Anorak Bob]

Carved, Dave.
I'll find some photos

[Anorak Bob]

Dave,

Steve Durden at Hercus sent me a box of goodies a few years back. They were getting rid of the remaining spare parts for the little Hercus No.O mill. Amongst the treasures contained within, was the dividing head body and the base (main) casting for their seldom seen 6 inch rotary table. That's another story along with the one about the slotting head.

I found a bloke over here who kindly made his dividing head and tailstock available for measurement. Fiora Machinery, a WA Hercus agent, also have one set up on a display No.O. which proved real handy. Steve Durden provided invaluable advise over the phone and by email.

I purchased a slice of 4E cast bar from Bohler Uddeholm and cut it roughly to shape with a 6" x 1/16" slitting saw. Bohler had partially cut through the bar where a cut was required that I would not have been able to achieve.

Here are a few photos of the process.

The drawbolt holding the Clarkson chuck and the 1 1/2" endmill came loose. How do you reckon I felt with all that flapping around! I guess I was pushing the mill past it's comfort zone with that behemoth.

Bob.

[Anorak Bob]

Similar story but two pieces of 4E.

[Dave J]

You made a nice job on that:2tsup: nothing better than cutting cast iron other than the mess it makes.
I thought it was made of steel which is why I asked the question above.:doh:

Dave

[Anorak Bob]

The black hands aside Dave, I have made quite a few bits and pieces out of cast bar and generally found it a pleasure to use. I need to connect the coolant pump on my 13 to the VFD that's still in in its box so that I can revel in the joys of cutting steel, properly.

[Dave J]

I find using coolant gives the tools a lot longer life, even on the band saw it makes going through blades a thing of the past.

Dave

[Anorak Bob]

Dave, So far my experience with coolant has been limited to trying to pour it out of one of those squeeze sauce bottles and the stuff being sprayed all over the wall, and to the fairly ineffectual application by a brush dipped into a sardine can full of swarf and coolant and onto the job. In other words, half hearted and half arsed.

[Dave J]

It will be a huge difference to what your doing now, full flood is great and washes the chips away, just make up some small perspex screens on mag bases to contain it from flying around. You still get a bit escaping but most of it can be caught.
One thing I find to be a problem is with it running along the table at any chance it can get, so I am going to make a longer catch tray up with fold out wings, so they can be folded up when not in use instead of gouging your shin open when walking past.

Dave