Lathe crash - help needed

[19brendan81]

Well I hope you all got off to a better start to the machining new year than I did. I crashed my f*cking lathe last night and have rooted it fairly well. Im not sure what happened, and im hoping someone on here may know.

I was cutting an imperial thread for the first time. 14 TPI for a 3/4 inch BSP fitting. I was cutting in aluminium with a nice sharp tool. In order to do this, I had to change the gears in my lathe for the first time, which was done as per the following instructions (these are word for word from the manual - see attached pics for the manuals diagrams).

All the threads and feeds directly available from feed box are given on the name plate fitted on the headstock, with the setting of control levers and tumbler.
This lathe has a unique feature which facilitates selection of inch and metric threads easily. To cut inch threads, loosen the quadrant bracket clamping nut E and swivel the idler gear A to engage with gear D (See Figure 10). Tighten nut E. To cut metric threads, loosed nut E, and swing the quadrant bracket upwards so that gear B engages with gear C. Re tighten nut E.

The leadscrew pitch for inch machine is 8 TPI whereas for metric machine it is 3mm single start.

I did this, and the quadrant shifted into gear easily. I put the lathe in slowest speed, 45 RPM and started cutting the thread. I made a few passes and then bang. It all went pear. The lever that you use to shift the lead scew rotation from neutral to left and right snapped off ("R" in attached diagram). Its a pretty substantial casting and one that im not looking forwards to having to repair. Worse still though, is that the gearbox appears to have broken too. I can only turn in back and forth a litte bit until it jams up.

Im not sure what caused this as everything was going swimmingly until it let go. The manual also says there is a clutch in the gearbox to prevent this sort of thing but that obviously didnt work.

Does anyone know what could have caused this? The tool didnt crash into the workpiece or anything, and as far as I know the half nuts were disengaged when it went bang.

So annoyed.

[Bryan]

I'd say something has come adrift in your gearbox, jammed and the tumbler has broken because of it. This is a new lathe, right? If you're sure you did everything by the book, you may have a warranty claim. Don't pull anything apart just yet.

[Dave J]

Not really knowing your lathe could we have some pictures of it and what controls do what. It's just hard to help with out knowing whats what.
A good start would be to take a gear or 2 off the end and see what can be rotated.

Dave

[Dave J]

I'd say something has come adrift in your gearbox, jammed and the tumbler has broken because of it. This is a new lathe, right? If you're sure you did everything by the book, you may have a warranty claim. Don't pull anything apart just yet.

Going by this thread it's a "Ex high school kirloskar, 10inch by 20inch"
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/diametral-threads-102588/

Dave

[.RC.]

Can you post any pictures of the actual machine... It is hard to determine what the problem might be..

There is a fair chance the lathe might have suffered a crash in a previous life and what happened now is just that it finally let go...

My heavy lathe had a hell of a crash in a previous life.. The entire topslide has been ripped out of the cross slide... This lathe weighs over 2 tonnes so it is no light weight.. How it was done I have no idea..

[19brendan81]

Ive only got the manual at hand, other symptoms are...

Lever "X Y Z" was jammed after crash, had to turn gears a bit by hand to free it up.

Lever "1 - 9" was initially a bit funny but feels OK now.

Tumber snapped due to it being forced out of gear. I think the machine for whatever reason was trying to throw the tumbler into neutral, but as the lever is pinned into place with a detent it snapped as it couldnt move.

Its an old machine bryan, 20 years or so.

[Bryan]

Ok, disregard previous re warranty. How confident do you feel about pulling a gearbox apart? In my experience (1) they're a bit fiddly but nothing too scary. If there's nothing amiss in the external geartrain, it's got to be in the box. I certainly wouldn't be running it (the gearbox) again without inspecting. If the spindle still turns freely with the tumblers disengaged, you may be able to do normal turning in the meantime.

[Stustoys]

Brendan
First off. Bugger. I crashed the crossslide with power feed on my new lathe a few weeks after I got it. Bent the crossfeed screw. So I know how you feel.

Couple of guesses
Were you shifting from Fwd to Rev with the lathe running?
Could you have engaged powerfeed and the half nuts at the same time?

Good luck

Stuart

[19brendan81]

Is it any tougher than a motorcycle gearbox? Ive rebuilt a few of those successfully.

I was planning on marking all the gears with whiteout or something to help locate them.

hey Stu - yep, big bugger. Im filthy. Nah, the lathe has a lockout to prevent engaging powerfeed and halfnuts. I also wasnt messing around with the tumbler. It just went mid operation which was weird. maybe a bearing seized up?

[Bryan]

Id rate it simpler than a bike box (been a long time since I had one of those apart), though possibly more bits in a smaller space. Someone posted a really nice diagram of a standard lathe box, will see if I can find it. Yours may vary but should be broadly similar. Sorry, can't remember who to credit. I ended up flipping the image L/R and printing it so I could look at as I assembled my box from the back.

[19brendan81]

Hey thats awesome Bryan, thanks for that. Will come in handy no doubt.

Im going to get stuck into it tonight.

[Dave J]

I would just start at the main gear box and go from their. It always helps to take pictures of things as you take them apart for future reference, thats the beauty of digital camera's these days.

My son is an apprentice auto electrician and uses his camera phone often at work taking the wires off different things on trucks etc. In this day and age nothing is standard.

Dave

[Stustoys]

Yeah I figured it "should" have a lockout, even if that wasnt working there "should" be a shear pin on the lead screw. Just thought I'd ask.

Half your gearbox will likely look something like this
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f189/replacing-gears-260-atm-gearbox-127294/

Cant imagine a bearing seizing that bad at the speed you were going.
Will be interesting to see what you find.

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

Thanks for posting that link Stuart.

The link in turn leads to another link dealing with the 9" gearbox. I have 3 of those boxes but being lazy, have never pulled them apart. Having explicit photos certainly makes the task easier, should the need arise.

Bob.

[pipeclay]

The Clutch you mention is only suitable for Feeding not Screw Cutting.

Can the Leadscrew be rotated when the Lathe has no Gears in mesh.

If the Leadscrew can be rotated by hand,re-engage the 1/2Nuts and rotate the Leadscrew and check that the Carriage is moving.

On the Quick Change Box is there only 1 Lever?

You may also find that there is no Sheer pin on your Leadscrew,but if there is ,remove it and check to see what its made of,I often make mine from Brass,you dont want it to be overly tough.

Take a good look at the Change gears at the rear of your Headstock for any damage that may of been caused or contributed to your problem.

If you were tofind a tooth or teeth missing with these Gears that might be a possable cause.

If a tooth is broken or missing have a look at the Break area,if its shiny this would indicate a fresh break,if its Dull and dirty/black it would indicate that its been gone for a while,if its a mix of both it would indicate that it has been Cracked for a while before breaking completely.

It seems strange that you reverse lever has Broken,maybe there is a problem in that area.

It would appear or seem by your description of what happened that the weakest part has been the For/Rev lever maybe there is something amiss between the Back Gearing,Stud Gear Change Gears and Screw Gear,rather than the Gear Box or Carriage.

[pipeclay]

On closer inspection there appears to be a Shear Key on the Headstock Spindle rear Gear,this should be Aluminium and should Shear if the is a problem in the drive train.

[old_fella]

I would be checking what the leaver is connected to and whats inside that before the gearbox is pulled apart, it seems more like something to do with that or something wasnt right when you changed the gears around.

[Sterob]

Chin up son! Its just another of life's hurdles and an opportunity to learn something.....
Do as others have said....take pics and go slowly until you find the source(s) of binding.
It will be alot simpler than a bike gearbox, I think.
Good luck.

Sterob

[Dave J]

Done a few bike gear boxes myself (the last one about 6 years ago with 3rd gear welded to the shaft:doh:) a lathe is much simpler, with that skill level you will have no troubles at all fixing this, it's just something new to you.

Dave

[19brendan81]

OK, thanks everyone for replying. I pulled the gearbox off last night, but havent taken it apart yet. I have done some preliminary investigations and it looks pretty grim. I'll answer pipeclays questions, followed by my observations.
　
Can the Leadscrew be rotated when the Lathe has no Gears in mesh. No it couldnt, was very stiff.

On the Quick Change Box is there only 1 Lever? No there is two, each one selects from 3 positions.

You may also find that there is no Sheer pin on your Leadscrew,but if there is ,remove it and check to see what its made of,I often make mine from Brass,you dont want it to be overly tough. Yep, there is a shear pin and its steel and was about half sheered

Take a good look at the Change gears at the rear of your Headstock for any damage that may of been caused or contributed to your problem.Checked these out and they are all fine. no teeth damaged.
　
With the gearbox off I shifted all of the levers around to get everything in neutral. Two of the shafts spin freely but are stiff, two others dont. The one with the 10 gears on it (8 in the pic bryan listed on page 1- the yellow ones) is the worst. You cant move it by hand but it will move if input is provided (i guess the gearing advantage helps things along). It gets to a point where it becomes almost impossible to move, then it passes this point in the revolution and becomes easier, before getting stiff as it comes round to the same point again.

The output shaft to the leadscrew is also playing up. Its very stiff and wont move by hand, but will move when the box is in gear and input is applied. The input pressure required to move the gearbox is heaps, it hurts my hands when trying to do it without a rag.

So, I suspect either a bent tooth or something is in there, but I cant see anything after a thorough look. The other and worse option is that one of the shafts has bent, this would be a real blow.

P.S Dave - Last time I did a bike gearbox it was the exact same prob! 3rd gear welded to shaft on an RM250

[pipeclay]

The Lathe/Parts diagram you listed,is that correct for your Lathe or similar?

Have you been able to Rotate the Leadscrew at all?

If you cant or it is excessively hard to turn,can you move the Carriage along the Lathe bed?

If you can move the Carriage have a look at the Leadscrew and see if there is any Damage/Burring where the Drive Key for you Cross and Longitudinal Feed comes from.

I understand your need to get the Lathe up and running again,but the 1st thing in my opinion would be to try and assertain what caused or led to the problem.

It would also appear that the safety features to eliminate excessive damaged have failed.

Does it have the Shear key on the Headstock spindle?

[19brendan81]

The Lathe/Parts diagram you listed,is that correct for your Lathe or similar? The pictures I posted originally are from the manual that came with my lathe, its identical to my setup. See attachment to this post for the whole manual.

Have you been able to Rotate the Leadscrew at all? Yes, its OK. I have removed it at the moment.

If you cant or it is excessively hard to turn,can you move the Carriage along the Lathe bed? Yes carriage moves freely

It would also appear that the safety features to eliminate excessive damaged have failed. Yep.

Does it have the Shear key on the Headstock spindle? Unsure, spindle turns fine at the moment. I can still turn manually, just stressed about losing 90% of the lathes functionality.

The gearbox is rooted...im sure of it. Surely if it was not rooted I would be able to turn the input shaft easily and watch the drive train do its thing...my gearbox for all intents and purposes has seized.

[Stustoys]

Brendan
If you can fix an RM250 gearbox this should be easy.
When you were cutting the thread were you winding the carriage back by hand or reversing the motor?
I think its a little harsh to say the safety feature failed......steel shear pin sounds like sabotage to me. Still to late wo worry about that now.
Stuart

[19brendan81]

Reversing by hand, still havent got around to getting one of those drum switches.

What should I make the new shear pin out of?

Note - I should mention prior to starting the threading job I ran the lathe at 2000rpm and used the powerfeed to turn the aluminim down to size. It was only 5 mins or so before the crash. this could have pushed some bushes to the edge and then the threading tipped them over? I was taking beefy cuts because it was a pain reversing the lathe by hand.

[pipeclay]

Brass would be fine for the Pin.

[Stustoys]

I only asked about the reversing the carriage by hand so you would know if it was moving freely. If you'd been power feeding it both ways you wouldnt have known if it was tight(i.e the carriage lock on).
The shear pins are normally made from brass.

"because it was a pain reversing the lathe by hand" how long was the cut? shouldnt have been that hard.

Some gearboxs have rpm limits on course thread cutting but I can't find anything in the manual.


Stuart

[Stustoys]

Did you check the shear key PC mentioned?(Fig 18 and 19 in your manual)

[19brendan81]

Just went home then, that shear pin is intact. I wonder if it let go a long time ago and someone replaced it with an unsuitable material? Its an ex school lathe so I guarantee its been crashed at some point in its life. The offending student probably just made a new shear pin out of steel or something.

Had more of a play whilst there, the output shaft has definately seized in its bush. As mentioned before too, the shaft with the 10 gears on it has also seized. Either in its bushes, or one of the gears on there has welded to the shaft like what the RM250 did a few years ago.

Ill pull the gears out on the weekend and see what I can do. What happens when a bronze bush seizes? Can I give it a very fine skim in the lathe or do I need to make a new one?

[Dave J]

Just went home then, that shear pin is intact. I wonder if it let go a long time ago and someone replaced it with an unsuitable material? Its an ex school lathe so I guarantee its been crashed at some point in its life. The offending student probably just made a new shear pin out of steel or something.

Had more of a play whilst there, the output shaft has definately seized in its bush. As mentioned before too, the shaft with the 10 gears on it has also seized. Either in its bushes, or one of the gears on there has welded to the shaft like what the RM250 did a few years ago.

Ill pull the gears out on the weekend and see what I can do. What happens when a bronze bush seizes? Can I give it a very fine skim in the lathe or do I need to make a new one?

It sounds like it ran dry, if it's not the main spindle, you maybe able to clean it depending on the damage.
RM250 you say, the one I did was a RM125 3rd gear,lol
All we did with that was press them apart (it took about15 tons in the press) clean them up and it has run fine ever since in our hands. It was from my nephew running no oil in it when he owned it.
Dave

[pipeclay]

If after you seperate the shaft and gears and determine what either needs to be replaced or repaired if possable I would then be looking at replacing the Bushes.

If the bushes are worn or Pitted/Scored they should be replaced,as well as looking at the associated bushes I would also be checking on how lube is supplied .

How often and how much lube were you supplying to these bushes and shafts.

[.RC.]

Pictures would help immensely..

[19brendan81]

Lubrication is some sort of wick system. You pour oil in through a plug on top of the gearbox. Evidently I didnt do it often enough as there was no oil in the tray when I pulled it out. Might be a good wake up call to start implementing proper lubrication procedures.

"the one I did was a RM125 3rd gear"

Ha ha ha. Mine was also from gearbox being run dry, previous owner did it...sold it to me for $250, I fixed it and sold it for $1000. Was a 1996 model in pretty sh!te condition.

[pipeclay]

For future refference dont be afraid or cautios of using to much oil on an open caseing,sometimes if the wicks are not the best they can also agrevate a lube problem,allways much easier to wipe a bit of oil off a tray or casting than having to wipe it off a shaft,gear or hands after removing.

[19brendan81]

Well I got the gearbox apart on the weekend and found the problems. Looks like it all started with a seized bearing on the output shaft just before the leadscrew. From there, the gearbox has stalled which snapped a tooth of one of the gears on the output shaft, and actually bent the other seized shaft (the one with the 10 cogs on it) by at least 1mm. This was the most serious problem and realistically I need to machine a new shaft for it. I did however use my 15tonne bottle jack and the overarm of my mill to gently massage out a lot of the bend. It took about 15 goes but I got it down to around .25mm. The gearbox is free now and roates by hand, however there is a sticky spot caused by the bent shaft.

I snapped a couple of circlips pulling the gearbox apart, which hopefully i'll round up at lunch today. once I have them the gearbox will be able to be tested out.

P.S its lucky we have digital technology as I took photos of the lot before disassembly. I had the 10 gears from the bent shaft stacked up neatly in a pile in the order they came out, until my cousin knocked them over. A quick consult of the photo enabled me to put them back on the way they came out.

[Dave J]

Good to hear you found the problem. You can pick up cheap(around $15 ) circlip sets in a plastic case, their Chinese but work fine.

Dave

[19brendan81]

Excellent. Do they carry these things at bunnings or supercheap? Id like to get them in a hurry if possible.

[pipeclay]

Any Bearing Supplier or Industrial supplier would carry them individual Circlips,possably/probably at a Better quality.

[Dave J]

These are the couple of circlip sets I have and they sell a hole range of things in these sets. I pick mine up at the markets between $12 and $18 depending on who is selling them.
Internal Circlip Set (300pcs) products, buy Internal Circlip Set (300pcs) products from alibaba.com (http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/51199820/Internal_Circlip_Set_300pcs_.html)

300pcs E circlip Assortment(E' retainer clips) products, buy 300pcs E circlip Assortment(E' retainer clips) products from alibaba.com (http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/273542220/300pcs_E_circlip_Assortment_E_retainer.html)

As Pipe clay said, you can get them at any bearing place and they will be better quality, but I find these are handy to have around as it saves running around for a few circlips.

Dave

[eskimo]

These are the couple of circlip sets I have and they sell a hole range of things in these sets. I pick mine up at the markets between $12 and $18 depending on who is selling them.
Internal Circlip Set (300pcs) products, buy Internal Circlip Set (300pcs) products from alibaba.com (http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/51199820/Internal_Circlip_Set_300pcs_.html)

300pcs E circlip Assortment(E' retainer clips) products, buy 300pcs E circlip Assortment(E' retainer clips) products from alibaba.com (http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/273542220/300pcs_E_circlip_Assortment_E_retainer.html)

As Pipe clay said, you can get them at any bearing place and they will be better quality, but I find these are handy to have around as it saves running around for a few circlips.

Dave

Dave....what cant you get at the Markets you go to...seems like you can get everything there....now, what do I want?

[Dave J]

Dave....what cant you get at the Markets you go to...seems like you can get everything there....now, what do I want?

The markets around here are pretty good and have a fair bit of tooling new and used. Their are 2 different Indian tool guys that import all the gear and have a good range and one said he is getting more into the engineering tools.
They have things like HSS for between $3 - $5 boring bars from about $7 live centres $35, also V blocks, reamers, mag bases, micrometers verniers etc.

If you want anything let me know and I get a price or will grab it for you.
We have markets every weekend at different places (weather permitting) sometimes their are a few on the one day, do you have them down your way?

Dave

[Jekyll and Hyde]

The markets around here are pretty good and have a fair bit of tooling new and used. Their are 2 different Indian tool guys that import all the gear and have a good range and one said he is getting more into the engineering tools.
They have things like HSS for between $3 - $5 boring bars from about $7 live centres $35, also V blocks, reamers, mag bases, micrometers verniers etc.

If you want anything let me know and I get a price or will grab it for you.
We have markets every weekend at different places (weather permitting) sometimes their are a few on the one day, do you have them down your way?

Dave

Wow, $5 HSS? I might have to go check out a market around here one of these weekends!

[Big Shed]

Don't know where you are in Melbourne, but there is a guy at the Laverton Markets (GBS Tools I think he calls himself) that sells that sort of stuff, including cheap HSS, sets of 115 drill bits, mag bases, dial indicators etc.

There are also a number of retired types that sell secondhand tooling, taps, dies and cutting tools.

Having said that, I have bought sets of 6 HSS tool bits from CTC Tools for $12.50 inc postage, mainly small square and round stuff as well as a parting tool.

[Dave J]

I barter the prices from CTC etc with them and they usually come the party, if not I buy elsewhere.
Last year I got 2 one lock mag bases like in the link below, a 50mm travel dial indicator and a auto centre punch for $50, he wanted me to buy the MT 3 live I had been looking at for $25 instead of $35 to make a deal, but I declined and just bought the other things, they want the business and know me by name as I am a regular that buys their all the time.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=Q436

I bought my engine crane off them and they have all that type of gear like H&F's as well as vises, power tools, saw blades, tap sets and heaps of other gear.
This market is a permanent setup and just open on weekends, with the other markets the people come from Sydney etc in vans and trucks.

I am surprised they are not everywhere down that way, maybe a call to the local council will tell you where and when they are on as they are usually on council ground up here.

Dave

[eskimo]

do you have them down your way?


not with all that stuff...the markets we have around adelaide are for swmbo's...nothing there for us blokes.....not unless your into pot plants, trinklets etc etc etc

[Big Shed]

Other good places to find businesses selling tooling and the like are the various field days.

I usually visit the Elmore and Seymour Field Days and there always quite a few places selling tools and tooling.

Here in Vic we also have a Model Engineering Exhibition once a year, one year in Melbourne (2010) and the next in Bendigo (2011). There are always quite a few businesses selling tooling and various metal off-cuts at this exhibition.

A lot of places have Model Engineering Clubs, Bendigo has one, and again these can good sources for metal off-cuts and the like, as well as good knowledge sources (having said that I am not a member, must get off my backside this year:doh:)

[19brendan81]

I grabbed one of those $13 300piece circlip sets on ebay. Bargain. So the lathe test will have to wait for a few days.

I got my HSS from Ozmestore1 on ebay. $15 for 5 pieces of 5/16 (3 inch long). Cuts like a dream.

[Dave J]

Eskimo,
At least we have something up here, you guys get all the machinery deals down that way.
Brendan,
Good to here you got a set, they might not be the quality of the bearing supplier one's but you have a range on hand when you need them. I have used them on my mill and my son's big 30cc petrol RC car as well as other things, and they have held up no problem and they are made of reasonable good quality spring steel.

Dave

[19brendan81]

Awesome, thats good to hear.

[Dave J]

Was that set from here in Aus or from overseas? because I looked for you the other day and couldn't find them.


Dave

[19brendan81]

From ebay man, they are in NSW...

CIRCLIP ASSORTMENT 300PC (eBay item 330513139611 end time 28-Jan-11 21:55:51 AEDST) : Industrial (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CIRCLIP-ASSORTMENT-300PC-/330513139611?pt=AU_Hardware&hash=item4cf41e479b)

Its funny, they have a lot of items that you see around the usual traps, only this mob are more expensive....yet their circlip offering is the cheapest on the net.

I find that happens with ebay sellers sometimes (one supercheap item, the rest more exy), although 95% of the time I find that if ozmestore1 have the item they are cheaper than everyone else.

[Dave J]

Not sure if they have posted them but the external circlips are handy as well.
E-CLIP ASSORTMENT 300 pc (eBay item 230565931323 end time 21-Jan-11 11:14:54 AEDST) : Industrial (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/E-CLIP-ASSORTMENT-300-pc-/230565931323?pt=AU_Hardware&hash=item35aecce93b)

Dave

[19brendan81]

Where have I seen those things used before? They look familiar.

[Stustoys]

Holding mower wheels on is where I see them most.

Stuart

[eskimo]

[QUOTE=Dave J;1261156]
At least we have something up here, you guys get all the machinery deals down that way.
QUOTE]

but it rarely comes up......only a handful of people live in SA...compared to NSW and Vic

[19brendan81]

"Holding mower wheels on is where I see them most."

ha ha, yeah i think thats where I recognise them from!

[Dave J]

Yep mower wheels, I used them on the power feed stops on the mill. They make it easy holding things on round shafts that don't have enough room for threading. You can either make a groove with a cutting tool on the lathe or use a hacksaw to make it.

These are handy accessories, they also bring out roll pin sets, copper washers, metric nut kits, spring washers, split pins, R clips, grease nipples and loads of others.

Dave

[Stustoys]

You left out O rings Dave ;)
Anyone seen a dowel pin kit? be nice to have some in the shed.
Stuart

[Big Shed]

Here you go

MASSIVE 407p Rubber O-Ring Kit Common O Ring Repair Kit (eBay item 290519468177 end time 12-Jan-11 20:24:03 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MASSIVE-407p-Rubber-O-Ring-Kit-Common-O-Ring-Repair-Kit-/290519468177?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a44f4891)

[Stustoys]

This is where I get my kits from.

O-RING O RING ORING KITS RUBBER IMPERIAL & METRIC KIT (eBay item 290493814083 end time 27-Jan-11 21:55:17 AEDST) : Lots More... (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/O-RING-O-RING-ORING-KITS-RUBBER-IMPERIAL-METRIC-KIT-/290493814083?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43a2c7d543)

What are "bonded washers" for? maybe I need some :D
BONDED WASHER IMPERIAL 110 PCS KIT (eBay item 290470071633 end time 28-Jan-11 12:01:32 AEDST) : Industrial (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BONDED-WASHER-IMPERIAL-110-PCS-KIT-/290470071633?pt=AU_Hardware&hash=item43a15d8d51)

Stuart

[Jekyll and Hyde]

This is where I get my kits from.

O-RING O RING ORING KITS RUBBER IMPERIAL & METRIC KIT (eBay item 290493814083 end time 27-Jan-11 21:55:17 AEDST) : Lots More... (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/O-RING-O-RING-ORING-KITS-RUBBER-IMPERIAL-METRIC-KIT-/290493814083?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43a2c7d543)

What are "bonded washers" for? maybe I need some :D
BONDED WASHER IMPERIAL 110 PCS KIT (eBay item 290470071633 end time 28-Jan-11 12:01:32 AEDST) : Industrial (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BONDED-WASHER-IMPERIAL-110-PCS-KIT-/290470071633?pt=AU_Hardware&hash=item43a15d8d51)

Stuart

Bonded washers are used on the sump plugs of some cars from the factory... pretty good idea, they seem to seal better than plain aluminium or copper washers. Good idea for any drain plugs I reckon, you better buy some :q

[Dave J]

You left out O rings Dave ;)
Anyone seen a dowel pin kit? be nice to have some in the shed.
Stuart


I do have a metric and imperial O ring kit like Fred posted but they are bigger kits. I have not seen them in the same size kits as the others I listed above.
I did pick up a small O ring kit a few years ago but it is only about 125mm x 90mm in size.
You can get those O ring kits in the link for around $20 -$25 if you look around.

As for dowel pin kits, I have not seen any around at all. If I come across them I will buy one for myself and one for you. The guy at the markets has about 20 or more different kits so I might ask him if he can get them. Some times the with the language barrier (Indian) it's hard to explain what I want when it comes to things like this.

Dave

[19brendan81]

OK, my lathe is back together and now working perfectly. I put it through all the feeds and they are all there which is a relief. It is however noisier due to the bent shaft, however at least im machining now. I am still able to achieve an excellent surface finish so ill put up with the shaft for the time being as I have a backlog of jobs I want to get through. Maybe down the track i'll machine a new shaft for it.

I'll need to be better with my lubrication procedures in future.

[nadroj]

Bonded washers are used on the sump plugs of some cars from the factory... pretty good idea, they seem to seal better than plain aluminium or copper washers. Good idea for any drain plugs I reckon, you better buy some :q

You might find bonded seals under the description Dowty seals.
Aldi shops have metric & imperial kits of O-rings at present - $13 each.

Jordan

[Jekyll and Hyde]

You might find bonded seals under the description Dowty seals.
Aldi shops have metric & imperial kits of O-rings at present - $13 each.

Jordan

Aldi... What don't they have! Best I send significant other shopping then... :D

And yes, Wurth call them Dowdy washers - expensive little buggers they are too.

[Hunch]

Could try Stat-o-seals for another bonded rubber variety of seal, as to dowel kits, never seen such a beast. SPS might be a possibility....although I don't recall box quantity being extortionate...in 6mm at least.