titebond II

[titchtheclown]

The yanks rave about the stuff but a little shopping around sees teensy weensy bottles in my local stores of TB1 rather than TB2 and this is the cheapest on the net from Aus I can find: Hardware net (http://hardware.net.au/index.php?cPath=230_231&gclid=CJeG0Laqh6cCFQH5bgoddjmreg)

at $35 for the gallon bottle plus $16 for postage vs everywhere else having it at around $65 for the gallon bottle plus postage.

Yank sites have it for around $25 for a gallon! the $85 shipping is a bit steep but.

Anybody know of a good cheap source in Canberra?

Contemplating it as a good all round wood glue and specifically for ultra cheap boats of puddle duck ilk. Lots of people with nothing but nice things to say about it for these purposes on the web.

My alternative is to try out Prep Multihesive (http://www.prepproducts.com.au/Multihesive.html) which is around $50 for 4 litres at Magnetmartor $25 for 1 litre which is probably enough for my purposes in the short term anyway. Not a lot out there about it or even about glues like it - A Styrene-acrylate copolymer according to the MSDS. I have a small bottle I have had for ages and it seems relatively impervious to water when dry and I have been known to do intentionally dumb things myself - in the interest of furthering general knowledge.

Titch

P.S. The Bostik MDF glue which is a crosslink PVA is not waterproof. This I know because I tried it.

[metester]

Hi. Try Carbatec. Here is the link (http://www.carbatec.com.au/titebond-ii-premium-wood-glue_c11792).

[HOOKED.UP]

Use Epoxy glues.

Anything else is a lesser product.

Paul.

[Jim Carroll]

Titch it may be worth looking at the titebond 3 (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/category/-titebond-glue) as it is waterproof, titebond 2 is water resistant.

[PAR]

TiteBond II is only water resistant, which means it will release if submerged or is in a prolonged marine environment. It works on interior furniture in a boat, but it really shouldn't be used on assemblies on the weather deck or wet side of a hull. I've used with success on painted spars, but wouldn't trust it on varnished spars.

TiteBond III is classified as a type-1 waterproof glue. In reality, it just barely passes this test and shouldn't be trusted on submerged portions of a boat. It also clearly states on the container that it's not a structural adhesive, just a glue and this is a huge distinction.

All of the PVA type glues (all the TiteBond products) require finely fitted joints, lots of clamping pressure, have limited working times and to some degree require temperature considerations, during the cure. They are not gap filling and very importantly epoxy doesn't like to stick to PVA surfaces, making sheathing a problem.

Given the choice with TiteBond II or III, use TiteBond III, with the above mentioned considerations.

[titchtheclown]

Thanks guys all good advice but the Puddle duck site clearly states that they use Titebond II. Of course they also don't appear to mind a bit of leakage either http://www.pdracer.com/ (http://www.pdracer.com/)
Of course Mick Storer did a much better job using Epoxy on his version http://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/building-oz-pd-racer-now-renamed-ozracer-28107/

Epoxy is certainly more better.

I have to admit that at about $25 a gallon in the US titebond II is a lot cheaper than epoxy if not as good. However in Australia the price differential is much less so I may try something else like a polyurethane glue or go strait to Epoxy. My local fibreglass store sells West System Epoxy for about the same price they sell it in the US for while the cheapest Titebond in Australia is about 3 times the US price. Hence the cost benefit analysis is slightly more in favour of Epoxy.

P.S. You guys are probably over estimating the quality of the boats I am building or underestimating my preparedness to do dumb things.:; Still testing that Prep stuff

[PAR]

Again, given the option, TiteBond III is much preferred over II, just because it meets type-1 waterproof tests, which TiteBond II doesn't. If you have a choice, use BoatCoat, instead of West System epoxy, as it's cheaper and will get the job done just as well.

[m2c1Iw]

P.S. You guys are probably over estimating the quality of the boats I am building or underestimating my preparedness to do dumb things.:; Still testing that Prep stuff

It's been said before that any boat requires a fair amount of the builders time and there is an element of pride that goes with the completion even when building cheap boats.
So don't skimp on the important things that bring some durability to your creation, adhesives are one of them listen to PAR and use epoxy you won't regret it.

[woodeneye]

Hi Titch

Please take PAR and Mike's advice. They are so right. When it comes to glue for boats, nothing comes close to epoxy. I've used PU glue, never again. It's non gap filling and requires high clamping pressures. The stuff foams out of the joints for the entire cure period and it's a nightmare to clean up. A week later and it will have pushed even more out of the joint. Aaaarrrgghhh!

Epoxy only requires light pressure, so you don't need lots of expensive high quality clamps like you do with PU (like Gorilla glue) or PVA glues (all Titebond types).

If you go with epoxy, buy the measuring pumps. It makes using the system a doddle.

[titchtheclown]

According to the web the local agent for botecote products in Canberra is the yacht club. I guess it must be a top shelf item because I haven't seen it on tap and they don't list it on the lunch menu.:D Never mind if they do not have it the freight cost is about the convenience cost of not having to drive across town to get the west system stuff from ACT fibreglass which still leaves it marginally ahead on price. There are more than enough threads on this forum from the two camps to show either brand would be good enough for the likes of me.

:( The prep stuff Prep (http://www.prepproducts.com.au/Multihesive.html) fell apart after a day soaking in water.

Spent some more fruitless time getting annoyed with sites that add ridiculous shipping and handling charges at the last minute or simply say at the end - I am unable to ship to that address. Amazon was the worst culprit because they have a reasonable shipping charge that shows before you add it to your cart and then add a ridiculous handling charge at the last minute.:~ Damn them. Damn them all to heck.

[HOOKED.UP]

Go with EPOXY, I believe the peace of mind you will have with your finished product, is far cheaper than the cost of lesser material/product.

I use R180 and have done for many years.

It is, I think the least expensive epoxy in Aus. Made by a reputable company and has proved itself over time.
It is a 5/1 mix and can be used in all the normal manner of use for epoxy products.
I have never had a quantity for more than 18 months, so I don't know if there is a "shelf life".

The only problem is, "you save money".

http://www.fgi.com.au/files/images/stories/pdfs/products/resins/Epoxies.pdf

Paul.

[HELLICONIA54]

If you want a boil proof adhesive sealant,paintable and,not too expensive give Sikaflex 11FC Sticks extremely well,stays flexable.

[titchtheclown]

:o Wow that is spooky
I just opened a sausage of Sikaflex 11FC tonight.

[Scott-DMS]

Yes call carbatec canberra and ask for PURBOND not TITEBOND as PURBOND is the AUSSIE version

[PAR]

Purbond is a PU adhesive (a Henkel product), while the TiteBond products are PVA (produced by Franklin International). There are some substantial differences between the two adhesive groups, though it does appear you seem to like the PU's, Scott.

[Scott-DMS]

Boatcraft Pacific an aussie company produce a PURBOND aswell without the isocynates that are in the HENKEL version

[damian]

You guys are priceless. I have been searching the forum looking for clues on where to buy some glue or my workbench project. Never thought of hardware.net. I'll be grabbing a gallon of titebond 3.

Thank you very much, you just saved me some money...