Bob H
24th November 2004, 04:16 AM
http://www.vianet.ca/~rhelman/demo.jpg
This is a piece of pine 3 1/2 by 2 in. In addition to the 3 straight sides I scrolled out the B shape.
Then I used my Hi-speed Rotary (Dremel type), with a 1/2 " dia., coarse grit, drum sander, to round-over the edges and apply the other contours.
If raised grain is a problem for you, please note there is no evidence of it here. But you will notice the sanding marks from the coarse grit.
The key to using this type of tool:
1. Light pressure against the wood surface; and
2. Keep the tool moving. e.g. stroking in one direction, or move it back and forth, or up and down, or in and out. or to and fro. All the shapings on the sample were variations of this.
Stopping in one place could dig deeper that you want and contribute to raising the grain as it bites into the softer areas more easily.
I also find that the Rotary's top speed is best as you gently skim the surfaces. Slower speeds may just cause you to dwell too long in one spot and tempt you to apply more downwards pressure. But trial and error will show you your own most comfortable speed.
In any case practice on scrap pieces like the one here. Try sawing out a few lumps/bumps/curves as well as straight edges.
Whether you clamp the item you are sanding and run the tool over it, or clamp the tool into a stationary holder and move the wood piece over the sanding drum, the principle is the same: Easy Pressure and Keep it moving.
My own preferred method is to hold the piece in one hand and the R/tool in the other. Then move either one or both.
I found out early on that one or the other being held rigid was fine for regular, straight forward Rounding over but as I began applying much more shaping and contouring I discovered my two handed method gave better results. Neither the tool nor the bit I'm working on need to move too much. By keeping either of the two things static then the other must move all that much more. Sometimes awkwardly, for holding or seeing your progress.
Of course I have to mention that I also employ a foot switch so I do not have to release my hold to turn the tool on/off. But this is just one more labour saving device.
This then is my method. Everyone will eventually develop their own. Chacun son gout. (I think that's French for: " whatever grabs ya").
For the first couple of years doing Intarsia, my Rotary Hi-speed Ryobi was my main weapon. It served me well.
I hope this helps.
Bob.
This is a piece of pine 3 1/2 by 2 in. In addition to the 3 straight sides I scrolled out the B shape.
Then I used my Hi-speed Rotary (Dremel type), with a 1/2 " dia., coarse grit, drum sander, to round-over the edges and apply the other contours.
If raised grain is a problem for you, please note there is no evidence of it here. But you will notice the sanding marks from the coarse grit.
The key to using this type of tool:
1. Light pressure against the wood surface; and
2. Keep the tool moving. e.g. stroking in one direction, or move it back and forth, or up and down, or in and out. or to and fro. All the shapings on the sample were variations of this.
Stopping in one place could dig deeper that you want and contribute to raising the grain as it bites into the softer areas more easily.
I also find that the Rotary's top speed is best as you gently skim the surfaces. Slower speeds may just cause you to dwell too long in one spot and tempt you to apply more downwards pressure. But trial and error will show you your own most comfortable speed.
In any case practice on scrap pieces like the one here. Try sawing out a few lumps/bumps/curves as well as straight edges.
Whether you clamp the item you are sanding and run the tool over it, or clamp the tool into a stationary holder and move the wood piece over the sanding drum, the principle is the same: Easy Pressure and Keep it moving.
My own preferred method is to hold the piece in one hand and the R/tool in the other. Then move either one or both.
I found out early on that one or the other being held rigid was fine for regular, straight forward Rounding over but as I began applying much more shaping and contouring I discovered my two handed method gave better results. Neither the tool nor the bit I'm working on need to move too much. By keeping either of the two things static then the other must move all that much more. Sometimes awkwardly, for holding or seeing your progress.
Of course I have to mention that I also employ a foot switch so I do not have to release my hold to turn the tool on/off. But this is just one more labour saving device.
This then is my method. Everyone will eventually develop their own. Chacun son gout. (I think that's French for: " whatever grabs ya").
For the first couple of years doing Intarsia, my Rotary Hi-speed Ryobi was my main weapon. It served me well.
I hope this helps.
Bob.