The shed gets a lining

[rusel]

Hi
I had a thread for free chip board and mdf panel from a mate who move his factory and I scored enough panelling to line the shed.
So I have started by doing a section at a time.
Attached are some photos of near before,already started removing overhead shelf.

Then I lashed out and got some insulation as this is the west facing wall. I have measured it at 55+ degrees on the inside that is some radiator to stand in front of.

Last one is the panelling is up that was the esay bit as the was no cutting to size just a few holes for PPs All the removal and replacement takes the time. I am debating about the overhead shelf whether to put it back the old one had lighting under it but I have some 4ft fluoros that I might hang from the ceiling joists and leave the shelf out (less places for the junk to collect,, it is sneaky stuff that junk :roll:)

While doing the walls I am treing to thinking of the best way to do the roof. I want to leave the ceiling joists exposed as this is good storage for long bits. So the insulation has to go up to the peak of the roof this will make is a difficult job. More thinking on this.

As I do more I will post more photos

Russell

[John T]

a good score to get enough to line your shed:2tsup::2tsup:
john t.

[FenceFurniture]

Well I guess you could get the mate who gave it to you to come round and help with the ceiling, or cut the boards into quarters (1200x600) so that they are manageable. If I was doing it, I would pre-drill and screw, rather than nail. It's heaps easier than overhead nailing, and can be removed easily later if you want to conceal your wiring (always a good idea).

Just a thought.

Regards, Brett

BTW, if you find that the straps holding up the shelf are getting in the way, then you could replace them with 4-6 100x100 angle brackets. I haven't had any sag in mine in 8 months - my shelf is 180mm deep from memory.

[BobR]

You won't regret the insulation. On the west facing wall I have a foam insulation insert for the window. Makes a big difference.

[BobL]

Nice work rusel, as soon as my sparky is done I'm going to be insulating and lining my new shed.


Well I guess you could get the mate who gave it to you to come round and help with the ceiling, or cut the boards into quarters (1200x600) so that they are manageable. If I was doing it, I would pre-drill and screw, rather than nail. It's heaps easier than overhead nailing, and can be removed easily later if you want to conceal your wiring (always a good idea).

In lining this attic I used 600 x (up to) 2400 mm gyprock strips.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=162993&stc=1&d=1299019417
I had no help so to assist with handling and to stop the longer strips from bending and breaking I tek screwed a 2m long, 19 x 45 pine batten to the front of the strip with the 19 mm edge in contact with the strip. Once the strip is screwed into place the tek screws can be removed and the screw holes in the gyprock can easily be patched up later. The most difficult thing about this job was the angles. Another tip with lining a ceiling alone is to tek screw a batten below the joist so there is a gap a bit more than a gyprock sheet thickness between the joist and the batten - this provides a lip to hook the sheet into and the screws also help align the sheet.

[rusel]

hi
Bret
Thanks for the suggestions
The mate is now double busy with getting the new factory sorted and work out the door.
With the ceiling I was thinking of some sheets of polystyrene screwed to the rafters with large washers under the heads. This will leave a good air gap between the roof and insulation with some ridge ventulation should work well.All depend on price of the polystyrene ,have used it in the house to great effect.
Re the shelf just used what was lying around. Got to use up the junk before i throw it out.
Bobr
I have a old venetian blind i will mount out side the window in summer to stop the suns heat from getting in but let the light in.
Bobl
The room looks great so does the photo.
Hey did much the same thing on a 100+year old Victorian semi upstairs room many years ago. There rulers back then must not been to good as the distance between the rafter varying from 650mm to 400mm from top to bottom between the same two rafters. Much measuring was done and many night to get this done

Started the next section of wall today. will post some photos in the next few days.

Russell

[Christos]

Good idea, waiting for the next lot of work. :2tsup:

[FenceFurniture]

Hi Russel, funny you should mention polystyrene. That's what I used in my walls (70mm poly sheets). You can get 50mm (and less) and you can also get them with a silver foil on one side. This is what I intend to use in my ceiling (at the moment the roof is nice old rusty corr.iron, then an air gap, and timber lined with all sorts of bits and pieces in a rustic theme.

I got the poly from Foamex in Revesby, and I thought their prices were quite reasonable.

Regards, Brett

[Timeless Timber]

Polystyrene's a good insulator- hence why it is used in esky's/(chillibins to the kiwis) etc.

Its only drawbacks that I can think of are:-

1. It's susceptibility too fire

2. Its volatility in the presence of any hydrocarbons

3. In a fire situation the fumes given off very quickly and in great volume can be potentially deadly.

Lets face it, anything you can get cheap to insulate and line your shed is a great idea - & I like those yellow bats and would stick with them If i were you because the glass is fire resistant and the yellow color is a fire retardant additive.

Wood working sheds, well they are a big fire hazzard - we did eventually have quite a deal of problem getting affordable insurance on our furniture factory because it was timber framed (not concrete tilt panel like all the new ones) and because we had sawdust and flammable liquids including thinners for spray polishing and so on - so these things might be issues to consider.

A practice we ALWAYS adhered too as a matter of habit for 20 years was - last one out shuts the power off at the mains switch.

We had an evaporative/dehumidifying (Ebac) seasoning kiln for drying timber that was in its own attached shed which needed power 24/7/365 basically, so we ran a separate circuit with its own mains switch so that could be left running without the power being left on in the factory overnight.

A lot of the 3 phase contact switches for wood working machines, get a build up of fine sawdust inside them over the years and they CAN in damp (heavy dew) conditions - get that coating of fine dust wet enough for electricity to arc thru the carbon in the wood dust cellulose - enough that it first smolders - and then starts a fire - burning down your whole shed/ factory - hence why we only had power in the workshop turned on when someone was in there.

I remember I once sold about 3 tonnes of slabbed kiln dried defect free Jarrah burl too a woodwork shop / factory in Perth once and a year or two afterward I ran into the buyer and asked him what he made from the slabs and he told me he lost the lot in a fire when his factory burnt too the ground at night when no one was there! :o

Anyway - back too your polystyrene...

I'm a qualified master 5 skipper, and built a boat that I put thru commercial charter survey once with marine safety dept.

One of the requirements was that it had to have foam flotation inside the hull - in recreational boats its quite common and cheap to use styrene.

However, on a commercial charter vessel its specifically NOT allowed to use styrene for a few reasons - that really speaking could just as easily apply to your wood workshop - when you take the time to think it thru.

The fire risk is one, wet wires too a bilge pump under deck could ignite the foam with a simple short in the 12v electrical system..

Fire on a boat at sea is the last thing you ever want too experience (just like a fire in your workshop would be if you've invested everything you have into it AND you cant get good insurance at a reasonable price - been there n done that),.

When a boat swamps / sinks - the fuel (specially petrol) in the fuel tanks is lighter than water and will find its way out of the fuel tank vents just by floating out as water makes its way in - essentially they replace each other!

Your styrene is your flotation...that keeps the recreational swamped boat on the surface and stops it sinking too the bottom - and thus you are easier found if you stick with the boat, because its bigger than you and easier seen by aerial searchers and other boats like those with radar for example - you might be able to clamber onto the upturned hull and avoid the sharks and hypothermia even.

Ever seen what happens - when you put a thimble full of petrol into a styrene foam cup?

Yep - it melts in seconds too a sticky black goo.

So guess what - when that petrol floats out of your petrol tank thru the air vents as the water leaks into the tank - the petrol floats on top of the water around your boat making your eyes sting etc if your in the water - but WORSE - it reacts with the styrene flotation foam and in minutes turns it too sticky black goo that doesn't displace jack schitt, let alone any water and down your boat goes too the sea floor, leaving you to drift round with the petrol and sharks etc.

Whats that mean for a wood work shed?

Umm, do you spray any thinners and acrylic varnish etc around to finish your projects?

Well if any gets into your styrene insulated ceiling - you could have lovely black goo dripping out of the ceiling joints all over you and your workers and your newly polished furniture pieces you left to dry overnight!.

You just don't want any hydrocarbons mixing it with your styrene insulation coz once its black goo - it doesn't insulate anything!

In commercial boats because the authorities don't want them catching fire or sinking, well they INSIST on a special high density, (So it doesn't compress under the weight of water and displace less volume of water to allow a boat to sink) closed cell (so it doesn't soak up water and get heavier and affect a boats buoyancy), Fire Retardant (So it doesn't burn and spread fire under decks faster than an extinguisher and fire pumps can put it out) polyurethane foam.

Its the yellow crumbly type foam you sometimes see up under the seats in alluminium dinghy's - often referred too as "honeycomb/violet crumble foam".

Now this would be a GREAT insulator for your shed ceiling for all the reasons described BUT, man is it expensive - its a specialized foam and dear as all get out I think enough for a 16 ft bara punt floor was about a grand or so.

This is why I think you might be far better off with - a foil reflective sarking paper and say some more fire retardant glass insulation batts, maybe the pink batts type with greater insul properties for the radiated heat from the roof.

Sorry for the long winded response - polystyrene is readily available and cheap from packing materials etc, but if your 100% aware of the downsides with fire risks and fumes and chemical stability etc - you just wouldn't use it IMHO - its too late to do anything after it's caught fire - about all you can do then is say "Ahh bugger" and hope no one dies.

Sorry to be a Debbie Downer on this otherwise good idea - hopefully others here might find this info in a search one day if they contemplate something similar, then at least they will be fully informed when they make their choice.

Can't be too safe these days!

Cheers

[johnsattuk]

Used ready insulated sheets to build my shed, found a place that took the seconds from a manufacturer. :D

Cost me ~ £4 a sq mtr instead of ~£25 a sq mtr. :2tsup:

Still a WIP :rolleyes:

[FenceFurniture]

Still a WIP :rolleyes:

Aren't they all?:U

Nice work John.

[rusel]

Hi
FenceFurniture
Many thanks you saved my sanity, why, I could not think of the place that I got the foam I used in my house reno 3 years ago.
Rang the got a price for some 50mm foil backed foam sheet 2500x1200 for the 19 sheets that I would need come to $560.
But before I present my case to the 'one who must be obeyed' what does the gang think or know about this air cell foil wrap, would this work up on the rafters? Might be easer to put up, will get some prices tomorrow.

Timeless Timber
You have your heart in your advice, to add to your info here are some fact i found out about the foam that i was planing on using; From Expanded Polystyrene Features & Benefits | Foamex (http://www.foamex.com.au/technical-info)
Fire Properties

Foamex blocks and sheets are manufactured from a fire retardant raw material and are not an undue fire hazard when correctly installed. The polystyrene will burn when in contact with a flame, like other organic building materials, but will self extinguish when the fire source is removed.
Toxicity

CSIRO reports comment that when polystyrene is ignited, the toxicity of gases given off is “not greater” than that associated with burning timber. (H. Hofman & H Oettel Comparative Toxicity of Thermal Decomposition Products.)


John
I like the Shed mate. I bet it snug in there when the chill is outside


Will get some panels up tomorrow as I working in the shed doing some milling and have 20 minute between loading the mill


Russell

[crowie]

So you managed to secure enough sheet material from Chris's old workshop?
Looks like you're putting it to good use.
I used some of the 10/12mm chipboard on making stack toys for KinderGym.
Cheers, Crowie

[FenceFurniture]

Hi Russell, can't comment on cell foil, but I like the idea of the poly sheets with the foil because any roof leaks (and I have a few) will just run off to the outside. The cell foil may trap the water, even with the pitch of the roof.

That's a bloody good price for 19 sheets.:2tsup:

Regards, Brett

[rusel]

Hi
FenceFurniture
Yes i am a fan of polystyrene sheets also. I did not get to looking at the air cell sheeting today, move that to next week.

Got some more lining up today, this one was chipboard so it was painted with so slops from the paint tin pile. Don't the photos make it look uncluted there a reson for that because now I will have to now make a pile of boxes to fit under the benches to fit all the odds and sod into. At the moment there is just a great big pile in the centre of the shed

From this centre excess is a old wood lathe i rescued many years that I admit that I am not going to get around to fixing up SO who want it. Just need a good home and some TLC one photo attached.
I will post it in the market place with more photos

Russell

[Christos]

At the moment there is just a great big pile in the centre of the shed

You got me looking for the mess? :U

I would not mine the lathe but no room at the moment as I think the mess might be contagious. :o

[rusel]

Hi
Bit of a update
As mention earlier I had a pile in the middle of the shed.
I had to reduce this to give me room to do the other side of shed.
One sheet I got was a 18mm MDF so I used this and anything else suitable eg the old shelf hanging from the roof (first photo in last post) to make some boxes for sorting out my metal collection.
Also moved another set of shelves next to other one (see photo) This is where current project will be put. PS notice the stuff outside the door where did that come from :o honest it was not me.
Christos is picking up the lathe in the next few days and I hope he has a lot of fun with it.
Now the trailer is 3/4 full and I still need to put about the same amount in to it. Then this should see me starting the next side.
A note of warning when I find the bugger who put all this junk in my shed they are going to get a :smack:


Russell

[rusel]

Hi
I got back the pricing on 3 types of insulation for shed roof.
There all came in within $20 of $560 so price is not a decider here.
Installation and or best product will be the decider
Installation is on to the back of the roof rafters. All this has to be done off a ladder while working around benches and machinery on the floor.
Will put a horizontal piece near top of roof to create a chanel to collect hot air from the air gap above insulation and roof metal and let it out ridge vents (still to be got)
1; Polystyrene foil backed foam 50mm
has a 1,5 R rating on the material itself, add a air gap of 90mm makes it about R 4.5+
install; Have to handle large sheets in a confined space, have too cut out ceiling joist slots to get foam down to wall or cut infill pieces to go between joists
2; Foil board 15mm
The R rating is for the material is not stated anywhere it is always was mixed in with something else, sarking, air gap, summer, winter. Lets say in summer R4 with plenty of air flow between the roof and foil board and in Winter something less.
install; Much the same as polystyrene
3 Air cell double foil 5mm
Has a rating of R0.2 many relies on a air gap which states a rating of R3 or 4
install; 2 width fit perfectly to each side of roof. the question will this be easer being a flexible martial on a roll then a ridged board?

Any thoughts anyone..............


Russell

[FenceFurniture]

Hi Rusel, the Poly would give much better sound reduction than the others, I would think. Not sure if that's an issue for you.

[crowie]

G'Day Russell,
Have you thought of stripping the roof and rolling out the foil backed batt the refixing the roofing.
It may sound like a lot of work but I think it'd be easier and safer than working off a ladder in the shed trying to fix an insulated ceiling.
May also be cheaper for the building roll foil backed batt?
Cheers, Crowie

[BobL]

G'Day Russell,
Have you thought of stripping the roof and rolling out the foil backed batt the refixing the roofing.
It may sound like a lot of work but I think it'd be easier and safer than working off a ladder in the shed trying to fix an insulated ceiling.
May also be cheaper for the building roll foil backed batt?
Cheers, Crowie

I'm so glad I had insulation installed in the roof as part of the new shed build
BUT
I have the 3.2 x 5.3 adjacent shed roof to insulate and I'm just gonna take the roof off to do it. It's a skillion so it makes it easier to deal with, plus I have to lift one side of the old shed roof line 125 mm at one corner anyway to make it level again.

[rusel]

Hi
BobL What insulation did you have put in? Might help me make a decision.
FenceFurniture. at the moment sound not a big problem but thanks for the thought.

To give you a idea of the shed I have attached a photo of the shed from the back door of the house. For orientation the door of shed faces west.
The roof material is aluminium held down with aluminium screws. I do not want to disturbed it. If it was steel it would be off in a minute.
I like the idea of the large air gap by putting the insulation on back of rafts because it greatly increase the R value.
I was thinking if I put a beam down the centre under the ceiling beams and couple of temporary columns holding up the beams. I could then stand on the ceiling beams, maybe use a plank to sit on while screwing the insulation up, not that much room to stand.

If you look to the right of the door you can see a piece of 8x2 wood there and under it are some mobile pot stands attached to it. This is what I am using to move the lining boards from the trailer to position, to heavy for me to carry these days

[Christos]

Having seen the shed I agree that there isn't much room to stand. I would think that this is more then a one person job if you tackle this from the inside unless you start cutting the sheets to something more suited for one person. I guess I am also looking at what comes out of this.

Diffidently expecting an interesting solution.

[BobL]

Hi
BobL What insulation did you have put in? Might help me make a decision.

I used Anticon - just the basic 55 - it makes a huge difference. On a hot day I stand in the old shed and look up and the roof is radiating like a toaster, then I move to the new one and the heat radiating of the underneath roof virtually disappears. The other BIG difference is old roof is bare galv while new shed is white colour bond. Even without insulation this alone make a major difference.

I've started lining my shed today - I'll post something here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/shed-builders-recommendation-perth-127060/) when I get the photos off the camera later this evening.

[rusel]

Hi
Got back into again and this time the eastern wall was the target.
As you can see in pic 783 the bottom half of the wall is Green,This was sheeting I got from Chris that is waterproof so this goes behind the mill and lathe and right to end of the shed. Above this is melamine to the end of the lathe then painted chipboard to end.
I had some strips of Green that I took down and used them to seal up the mill and stop it spraying coolant all over,work well.
What i have done since photo is string up the lights above the machinery

Made up a sign for the misses the Gardner pic802
http://www.vapourforge.com/russell/stuff/sign%20small.jpg


She loved it

Still looking at the roof and just thinking.

Russell

[Christos]

That's again very good progress. :2tsup:

[rusel]

Have been back out in the shed and sorting things out some more by moving all the large timbers out of the shed and the ones that have been out in the open into a lean to between the shed and fence.
The roof is from some colourbond fencing panels cut in half and all the shelving is from left overs like old pine bed ends, trims and short bits of leftovers
Now where the timber was stack on it's end in the corner the welder now lives and the boss like that there is no timber stacked in the back yard.. Win win

I still have access from the other end for some bigger item that do not mind the whether... so all's good

Russell

[Christos]

Yes a win win. only do not forget what is in the storage.

[BobL]

I like it Russel!

I have a couple of gaps like that around the back of the shed but I need to keep the access.

[rusel]

My only problem is it already near full....must mean I need to make something out of it :U not acquire more :roll: ..... but what is the question???

[BobL]

My only problem is it already near full....must mean I need to make something out of it :U not acquire more :roll: ..... but what is the question???

That's always a problem for woodies. The end of my drive way is covered in small logs from decades of biannual kerbside rubbish collection, the remnants of two wood turners collections and other bits and pieces. SWMBO is being very patient. I really need to mill them up and get them properly stored. Roll on retirement!

[rusel]

Finally bite the bullet and started on the ceiling.
What i am using is under floor insulation 60mm polystyrene foam. This is made with compression cuts in both side allowing the foam to be compress between the rafters. The spring of the foam helps to hold it in place till i squirt some glue up between the foam and rafters. These piece of foam are 1200 x 590 very easy to handle on top of the ladder. I cut the top row where there meet the ridge board at a angle for a better seal.

At the end of my shed I have two small rooms that came with the shed when we move in and on top of these I have got some cover sheets from a cabinet mate and put up some flooring on top. Best of all it came cut to size and delivered. It cost him to throw them out, this is cheaper a WIN WIN :2tsup:. So some long storage room up here.

I will have to make some ridge ventilation to let the hot air out from behind the foam. The foam sits about 30 mm off the bottom side of the roof battens and this will let the hot air rise to the ridge. Letting this hot air out greatly increase the R value of the insulation.

More pic when finished.... That a interesting question ....When is a shed finished?????

Russell

[crowie]

That looking great Russell, top job....
You got the board from the mate you introduced me to earlier in the year?
Keep up the good work.
Cheers, crowie

[Christos]

It does look much better.

[rusel]

I have bee pushing ahead with the insulation, the easy 80% is up Still have to do the last bit where the roof meets the wall. there is lots of fiddly bits here, ceiling joist, rafters, power cables and so on,

Been moving forward with my ridge vents, could not find any that would fit. So had a look around at what I had on hand and come up with this design.Made from PVC pipe.

247180

The sun and the black pipe will assist in the chimney affect and the vortex as the wind blows past the pipe end should suck the hot air above the insulation out plus there will be 4 of them.
The upright black pipe is 90mm that goes in to a 100mm (blue) elbow for clearance as it rotates with the wind. The rocket ship is a idea I am toying with for a vane. Might make the other ones something different say a speed boat, car and train. Think is to make them out of aluminum sheet and polish them. Well why not :rolleyes:

Made a mould up for the flashing/mounting flange. Had to measure the roof and match the size and angle as well as the roll top. Here is the mould with the upright in place.

247181

And layed up with fiberglass, I will cut these to size and paint,

247185


I have to now cut the bearing mounts and fixtures out and assemble them. Then it up on to the roof and cut some 90mm holes through it :o


Russell

[rusel]

Ok the holes have been cut and the four vents are in place. The images below show how it was done. There all swing around one after the other like dances in the breeze, Interesting to watch.


I used some blanket insulation on the gable ends. Use the left over ply from my clock making as pads to nail up the insulation... waste not ..... Just the bottom edges of the foam to go.

Russell

[crowie]

Well done Russell.....It'll get a work out over the next few days of hot, hot weather...

[rusel]

Well yesterday is was 38c here,
At the work bench it was 27c and above the insulation and under the roof was 60c, That's what used to radiate down into the shed before.
From the vents you can see a plume of heat rolling out of each of them when there is no wind to suck it out. Very pleased :U:U

Russell

[Scally]

Ingenious.

[rusel]

Just a update on my shed.
The latest upgrade to the shed is a Bandsaw and a dust extractor which has now made me have to upgrade the power supply which has now meant that the supply to the house had to be upgrade to 3 phase. So I am having the 3 phase run all the way to the shed. It was not much dearer.
The reason for the dust extractor was I was make a run of thing and must have suck in a lung full of dust and made me sick for about 3 weeks.
SWMBO just said no shed till the dust is fixed and said she would pay for it because she know how much it mean to me. You have got to love her for that, but she still think she is way out in front on the deal.

The bandsaw come from looking at a dust extractor and ended up buying a bandsaw...At the time it it made good sense to me............. still does after using it

Will start a new thread in the dust thread about the installation of extractor

Russell

[Christos]

Well done on the bandsaw they do come in very handy.

[crowie]

Just a update on my shed.
The latest upgrade to the shed is a Bandsaw and a dust extractor which has now made me have to upgrade the power supply which has now meant that the supply to the house had to be upgrade to 3 phase. So I am having the 3 phase run all the way to the shed. It was not much dearer.
The reason for the dust extractor was I was make a run of thing and must have suck in a lung full of dust and made me sick for about 3 weeks.
SWMBO just said no shed till the dust is fixed and said she would pay for it because she know how much it mean to me. You have got to love her for that, but she still think she is way out in front on the deal.

The bandsaw come from looking at a dust extractor and ended up buying a bandsaw...At the time it it made good sense to me............. still does after using it

Will start a new thread in the dust thread about the installation of extractor

Russell

Come on Russell, Were are the photos, please....... Show off the new toys.
Also please could you add a link to the new thread on the installation of the dust extractor, thank you.
Cheers, crowie

[rusel]

Yep the bandsaw is a big asset but it will be good when I turn it on all the light stop going dim,,,,,,,,
crowie keep your socks on...Stephen tell me the DE will clear customs this week so I will get it next week.
In the mean time the electrician have run the cable to the shed by the above ground route (did not feel up to digging the trench) It worked out cheaper to use the same wire that comes from the hookup point (where street wire attach to the house) to the switch board and run these down to the shed. As there manufacture more of this size and there for it is cheaper. I now have a 40mm conduit flying the 6mt from house to shed
So now I will have 180 amp available in the shed.
All the rewiring should be finished today.

Link for bandsaw
HAMMER woodworking machines Panel Saws Spindle Moulders Planers Clean-Air Dust Extractors (http://www.hammer-australia.com/au-en/products/bandsaws/bandsaw-n4400.html)


Russell

[rusel]

Well the wiring all done.....but not as smooth as the electrician had hoped...The young bloke who wired the shed to the main board got it wrong and when he turned the power on in the the shed there was a big bang and a smell of the magic smoke that makes electrics work was in the air. :oo:
Well after much looking and checking we found the course was he had the neutral connected to one of the phases, so putting 415v across the 240v lines in the shed.
The result was 15 amp fuse was melted, my battery charger for my drill fried along with the my stereo, power supply for the computer router, the gate opener and the door bell ringer in the shed.
He is now off finding replacements this is not going to be easy.
The stereo is 30 year old and has a aux input the most new one do not have.
The gate opener in not made now.
The door bell $30 from bunnings
Router I had a spare power supply.
The 15 amp fuse he had a spare.
The battery charger can be got off ebay

Her got off lightly as I had unplug the cnc computer and a few other thing in the house when the power was to be turned off.

Now the dust extractor should be here early next week then the fun begins.
In the mean time I have been rearranging the shed lay out, move the lathe, the welding stuff, drop saw, some old shelving, made some wheels for the bandsaw, all this I hope will make the new layout much better to work in.

Russell

[BobL]

Well the wiring all done.....but not as smooth as the electrician had hoped...The young bloke who wired the shed to the main board got it wrong and when he turned the power on in the the shed there was a big bang and a smell of the magic smoke that makes electrics work was in the air. :oo:
.
.
l

Blimey, that's not bad luck but sheer incompetence. Surely he should have tested things out with a meter BEFORE he switched it on?
Hope you get everything back working OK.

[Christos]

At least he did not fry.

[rusel]

He might not of fried but he had a look of shock on his face.....

Some pics of the 40mm conduit coming in to the shed

I have moved a hole heap of stuff out of the shed to the point I can not get my car under the carport.
I am going to have to be very tough on my self in what goes back in and what goes to the tip.....

[crowie]

He might not of fried but he had a look of shock on his face.....

Some pics of the 40mm conduit coming in to the shed

I have moved a hole heap of stuff out of the shed to the point I can not get my car under the carport.
I am going to have to be very tough on my self in what goes back in and what goes to the tip.....

Were is the pic of the "fry up"???
Good luck with the sort out and drive to the tip....
maybe just a second shed or rent some space in a mates factory....lol.....

[rusel]

Well still waiting for the electrician to come back with the replacement bits ....
Well had a good clean out one full tailor load ready for the tip when the rain stops

Started new thread on dust extractor for those interested
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/my-clear-vue-installation-173110/

[crowie]

Well still waiting for the electrician to come back with the replacement bits ....
Well had a good clean out one full tailor load ready for the tip when the rain stops

Started new thread on dust extractor for those interested
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/my-clear-vue-installation-173110/

Yes Russell, that'd be a wise move as I've been to the dump when its rained and it's best if one has a 4WD.
I'll check out the new dust collector on the attached thread, thank you for posting it here.
cheers, crowie