50mm boring head set

[neksmerj]

Looking at buying one of these. The first thing I notice is that the boring bars have
brazed on tips.

Is this normal, I was expecting indexable carbide inserts? Are they available?
The dia of the boring bars is 12mm.

Just thinking of multi-use, could this boring head set be used as a face mill?

50MM BORING HEAD SET WITH MT3 M12 ARBOR #F44 (http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-282/50MM-BORING-HEAD-CARBIDE/Detail)

Ken

[Dave J]

Thats normal for boring bars. They are available in 18mm and maybe other sizes, but you will have to look around yourself.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=M181A

With only having one cutter it will make it a fly cutter, like I did here

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164756&stc=1&d=1300607487

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164757&stc=1&d=1300607487

Dave

[pipeclay]

Looking at buying one of these. The first thing I notice is that the boring bars have
brazed on tips.

Is this normal, I was expecting indexable carbide inserts? Are they available?
The dia of the boring bars is 12mm.

Just thinking of multi-use, could this boring head set be used as a face mill?

50MM BORING HEAD SET WITH MT3 M12 ARBOR #F44 (http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-282/50MM-BORING-HEAD-CARBIDE/Detail)

Ken
Ken have you used one of these before?
Have you operated a Mill before?
Are you interested because the dollar is good,or you think you might use it?

[neksmerj]

Hi Dave.

That looks great, except for the price. Doesn't look like CTC Tools have boring bars with indexable tips. Might have to email Heine to see if he can source some.

You went 18mm dia, sounds a bit more substantial than 12mm. I can imagine the 12mm version could have a bit of flex in them.

What I'm really doing is getting up a wish list of tools for the Arboga.

Reckon not far down the track will be a rotary table. I can see that being very useful with a mating tailstock.

Ken

[neksmerj]

G'day Pipeclay.

No, I have not used or seen a boring head before. The world of milling is new to me.

I have used a Bridgeport a few years ago, under limited supervision.

On a learning curve like you guys were a few years back.

Ken

[pipeclay]

Fair enough Ken but just hope if. you dont over tool

[RayG]

Thats normal for boring bars.

Hi Ken,
Those sets of brazed carbide cutters, will give you all the lengths that you are ever likely to ever need. CTC have them here..
12 PCS. 3/4" BORING BARS WITH CARBIDE TIPS #H13 (http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-462/3%22-BORING-HEAD-3-fdsh-4%22/Detail)

Sometimes you want a smaller size, say for example, if you are boring smaller diameter holes..

As Dave showed with the fly cutter they are a single point tool, and if you want smaller diameters they are easy enough to make, that you can make your own custom boring bars in smaller sizes as needed. I think there have been threads on this forum on exactly that topic.

The brazed carbide ones can be resharpened, to some degree.

As Pipeclay said, it's not a good idea to just go and buy tooling willy nilly, wait until you have the mill up and running and get some clearer picture of the sort of things you might want to do and buy the tooling as the need arises.

Some things that you must have however are...

1. Have you got a good set of parallels?
2. Dial Gauge and Dial test indicators?
3. Micrometer, Vernier calipers?
4. T Slot clamps and blocks
5. Center finder?
6. A basic set of end mills and slot mills?
7. Milling vise (of course)?


.. I'm sure that others could chime in here with some more suggestions as to what you are going to need. :)

Regards
Ray

[Anorak Bob]

KJ,

This might be well and truly after the event but what condition are the Arboga's spindle bearings in? I'd be checking before I slung too much dough at tooling. There is a 0.0001" DTI in the box that's heading your way. You could use it to check runout and play.

BT

[neksmerj]

Hi fellas, some good tips above. I know, I know, I'm getting ahead of myself, ie, I haven't even seen the Arboga up and running. Just took my mate's word that it does run, he's the bloke I bought it off.

He bought it on speck with a Bridgeport, then decided to let the Arboga go after much pestering from me.

Ken

[Hunch]

Might save a dollar or two going through this mob, if you're really set on getting one and can put things in the most basic of English - looks like CTC and the local mob source there....

Dezhou Haotian lmp & Exp Co.,Ltd - www.httooling.com (http://www.httooling.com/showproduct.asp?id=1546)
(http://www.httooling.com/)

[neksmerj]

I reckon there's a problem with the Dezhou Haotian lmp & Exp Co.,Ltd - www.httooling.com (http://www.httooling.com) link.

I had more success with this one Dezhou Haotian lmp & Exp Co.,Ltd - www.httooling.com (http://www.httooling.com/contact.asp)

Looks like they have all the good gear, but a terrible web site..

Ken

[azzrock]

hi dave i like these photos. just wondering how is this piece clamped to the table and i dont understand why you have cardboard under the work piece.

[Dave J]

The plate is held down with counter bored socket head screws in two of the holes. The paper is between them to give it more grip, and to stop the finished side getting any marks on it.
It is also common to use paper/thin card to hold jobs in the vise jaws for the same reasons.

Dave

[azzrock]

i see one of the bolts now. im not shore if paper would help in the jaws of the vise ive been using. thay have seen better days. so the paper helps level out highs and lows in the job and milling table? 2 hold down bolts doesnt seem much for that big slab of metal.can you please tell us how fast that cutter is spinning?

[Dave J]

It's only going about 220 rpm and taking off around 0.5mm for a clean up first then about 0.1-2mm for the final cut. It is slow going and coolant needs to be sprayed on the keep the HSS cool or it will blunten after 50-100mm. The fly cutter is not aggressive and just sort of effortlessly shaves the metal off.
The paper does help with irregularities, but is mainly there for grip and to stop putting any marks on the finished surface, I just pinch the paper out of the printer when I need it. The 2 x M12 bolts held it more than enough for this job.

It was just after this shot with it being such a wide cut I found the tram on mill was out a really small amount in the Y axis, which is not movable on my mill. So I counter bored and bolted 2 x 25mm square lengths of steel across the table each end of the plate, fly cut them and then bolted the plate to them with 4 bolts (not that it was needed but helped with any warping). Doing this I ended up with the plate with less than 0.02mm variation measured at any corner.

Dave