Stabilising Fernwood

[wood hacker]

On a recent trip to New Zealand my father brought home a couple of samples of timber from tree ferns. As you can see it has pretty spectacular patterning however it does have a lot of voids within the timber. I was hoping for some ideas as to how to stabilise / fill these voids before turning. My first thoughts are to fill with a clear resin but what do you all think?

[Toymaker Len]

Really interesting material. Lots of voids ? If you know anybody with a vacuum pump you could try vacuum infusion with epoxy resin. Basically you put the material in a vinyl bag or heavy plastic, pump the air out one end then let the epoxy in the other end via a tube with tap set-up. Another way is to take a small sample like a pen blank say and immerse it in epoxy(slow set) in a solid container like a steel pipe with screw on ends and prepared with release compound or wax then pump out the air. You would need some devise to make the blank stay submerged. Good luck.

[gawdelpus]

I am Sure if Neil (dai sensei ) spots this post he can give you some pointers ,if he can stop salivating and slobbering long enough lol. Main thing will be sizes and proposed usage in the end ,it is most likely to necessitate both vacuum and pressure to do a decent job with this stuff , Cheers ~ John

[wood hacker]

I am Sure if Neil (dai sensei ) spots this post he can give you some pointers

Thanks John. I was kind of hoping he would be able to help. I'm probably looking to use it for some of the higher end full sized kits but that will all depend on how it turns out.

[dai sensei]

Hmm someone mention my name :rolleyes:

That timber looks amazing :2tsup: Do you know the particular tree fern species? I have 2 dead ones outside my kitchen window, I'd be wrapped if they turn out like those :U

How big are the pieces?

How hard is the timber?

Is the black really that black? If so I'd be tempted to fill with black rather than clear.

Can't tell from the photo, are the voids all visible, or as you cut more are exposed? You could them if the voids are visible, as long as the resin can penetrate, it only takes a pin hole.

Another alternative is to start turning and stop a mm from final, then fill the voids with tinted resin or thin CA with a black filler (charcoal dust etc).

I'm pretty busy at the moment, I have Turnfest this weekend, then I'm off to Thailand for a few weeks diving. You are welcome to come around after that, after Easter, to have a play. I promise I won't pinch much :;

Cheers

[wood hacker]

Hi Neil

According to their website (http://www.fernwood.co.nz/) it is black mamuka (Cyathea Medularis). The dark sections are not actually black but a very dark brown. The pieces are roughly 20mm square on the small ends and 25mm square on the larger ends and about 150mm long. The two pics attached show the end of one piece and the side of a pen that Dad also brought back that has been made simply by cutting and sanding the timber in a rectangular shape. As you can see it looks open enough for resin to penetrate.

cheers
Bruce

[MBUMIK]

the voids look to be pretty small, have you thought about filling them with ebony sanding dust and then a drop of CA to set the dust

i have just done some Jarrah Burl and filled the holes with ground Jarrah burl dust, came up a treat

just an idea

MIK

[wood hacker]

Mik

I had thought of something along those lines however looking closely at the structure of the timber I'm afraid it will all fall to pieces when drilled. So I'd rather try and set it as one solid block and then proceed as normal.

[gawdelpus]

There is a product available at Mitre 10 and probably Bunnings that is a wood hardener ,designed to soak into rotted wood and harden it for filling with whatever ,putty epoxy resin etc. Its not cheap but I have used it for some pretty punky woods at times and seems to help. I think even so you will need to keep the CA handy when turning to hold it together as you progress . Worth a try till you can get some proper stabilising going , Cheers John

[dai sensei]

Having a closer look at those pieces, trying to match the colours may spoil it, if the match is not perfect. I'd therefore think about casting in either clear, which would be my preference with a white or black tube, or a bright contrasting coloured resin.

[wood hacker]

I totally agree about casting it in clear resin. I'll give you a yell after easter and see if we can't get together and give it a go.