Shellawax Glow -v- CA

[Soren]

I have been finishing pens in CA due to longevity of finish.

I originally started with Shellawax, but found the finish wearing off, and the pens returning to very mat wood.

Following several discussions with Neil (U-beaut) and Jim Carroll I have tried again to use the Shelawax, to have the pens return to a more semi gloss natural finish, rather than the highly plasticised look.
I turned a piece of highly figures blackwood, sanded to 8000 and EEE. then applied several coats of Shellawax Glow, applying pressure to ensure a high build-up of heat and then buffing. I left the piece untouched for 3 weeks to "cross-link" ???.
Before putting the pen together, I have now spent half an hour with the blank in my hands, and all polish appears to have gone. ! It is now back to a look as before I applied any finish at all.

Is there any way I can get a semi gloss finish on a pen, without resorting to CA?

[Simomatra]

Use Minwax satin wipe on poly available from Bunnings $30 a litre. Its a slower process but won't take you 3 weeks

[Pariss]

Hi. I'm sure I read in one of these forums, a post by Neil (U-beaut) NOT to ever use EEE under the Shella wax finish, as the Shella wax has trouble penetrating the wood, and will not set fully with EEE embeded into the wood fibres.:no:. He suggest's just using 2-3 coats of Shella wax straight on the bare sanded wood. :2tsup:

[dai sensei]

A lot of woods do absorb the Shellewax. If using this type of natural look finish, I use the Shellewax, then EEE, then Shellewax a few times, then leave for a week or more. I then refinish with a few more layers of Shellewax. That way it lasts a lot longer.

Mind you, by the time it does wear off, it develops the patena of the wood from the natural oils in your hands. Many people like that more than the very shiny permanent finish of CA.

Cheers