Grind for a Beginner's Bowl Gouge

[Simon-UK]

Chaps, I need some advice please.

There seems to be as many different types of grind for a bowl gouge as there are types of timber to be turned.

As a beginner I have followed what seems to be the concensus and bought a 3/8" bowl gouge (from Crown tools if that makes any difference).

http://www.crownhandtools.ltd.uk/products/bowlgouges.asp

Now, how should I grind it or should I use it straight out of the packet (a short grind akin to a small roughing gouge!).

Please be kind if this is a stupid question but looking at the tool it seems the tops of the flute are just bound to get caught with the bevel ground square as it is supplied.

Many thanks
Simon.

[RETIRED]

Chaps, I need some advice please.

There seems to be as many different types of grind for a bowl gouge as there are types of timber to be turned.

As a beginner I have followed what seems to be the concensus and bought a 3/8" bowl gouge (from Crown tools if that makes any difference).

http://www.crownhandtools.ltd.uk/products/bowlgouges.asp

Now, how should I grind it or should I use it straight out of the packet (a short grind akin to a small roughing gouge!).

Please be kind if this is a stupid question but looking at the tool it seems the tops of the flute are just bound to get caught with the bevel ground square as it is supplied.

Many thanks
Simon.
Not a stupid question. :D

As a beginner I would use nearly the same grind that it comes with but ease the corners back a bit on the flutes. No tool is ever sharp from the factory and in most cases nor are they the right shape.

100 turners will all grind their tools differently to suit themselves, they all work. You have to find what works best for you.

[Simon-UK]

Many thanks Robo,

Possibly difficult to articulate in a reply, but what do you mean by ease the corners back?

I my mind, I could do this in two ways:
1) Present the top of the tool to the wheel and grind a chamfer, then dress the sides to match but not with a cutting edge

2) Direcly grind the sides until the tops of the flutes begin to move back and effectively create a cutting edge.

However, both these methods are to a greater or lesser extent producing a 'side ground' gouge or it this what you were suggesting?

With thanks
Simon.

[reeves]

Simon, as respnsed above, what suits u will work. I know this doesnt always work for the beginner though a su wnat some specfic information.


I begun 6 moths ago witha set of chinese HSS chisels plus 2 others.

I have gorund em down to nothing, had em re-ground, screwed it ip, buoght a nice white wheelk and angle jig, currenlty avoid a helix jig as it seems more masculine to do it by hand and still have trouble keeping the nice shape of the chisels and getting it right on angle but i have improved and my chisels are generally sharp.

I bougyt abook, the fundementals of woodturning by Mike Darlow and he has some great tech info about angles, grinds etc.

So all i cna say is try and keep the agles and grind of yr tool/s.
I have been learning the 'rolling' the chisel up the wheel technique and i have ther good fortune to see Ricgard Raffan live at a seminar, plus others such as Bruce Bell and they go really lightly on their chisels in terms of sharpening and grinding, just a little to keep the edge.

I know its frustrating, i hope to get better a sI go, so keep with it, keep sharp and let us know how u go.

regards
john

[Alastair]

What sez!

In fact he is suggesting a mild side grind, and one would probably best do that as you said, just by grinding back further while the gouge is rolled over to left and right.

I would stress to be circumspect in how far you go, as it is easy to go to a more aggressive side-grind, but to go back involves grinding off a heap of your tool. As a guide, I have been moving down this path over the last 3 years, and have only reached the point where the sides are ground back less than 45 deg.

[barnsey]

G'day Simon,

Welcome to the Forum,

With all my bowl gouges I have them square ground and pretty much at the angle they were when new. I have a chart by the grinder and a tool angle gauge there too so that I can adjust one way or tother if I'm not happy. ;)

Square ground - Hold the tool at 90 deg to the surface, adjust the rest to achieve the existing angle and then roll the tool gently on the wheel to put the edge on. If you are worried about the sides if you roll a bit further in either direction it will take the tips :)

Frankly I don't think you need to worry that much but if you do it do a little at a time or you'll lose too much and need to do a serious regrind to fix it. :rolleyes:

Good Luck

Jamie

[MathewA]

Only stupid question is one not asked


Please be kind if this is a stupid question

[Darrell Feltmate]

Simon
The flutes will not get caught unless you roll the tool too far to left or right, depending on the cut. A grind straight acroll will do you fine. Set the tool so that it points straight ahead with the bevel meeting the wheel at 45* roll to the left and then to the right until sparks fly ove the edge at all points. Done. It may be easier to do with a jig and if so set the butt of the handle in the end of the jig and adjust the length until the gouge sits with the center of the bevel at that 45* angle and then roll to left and right. For a jig idea see my web site.

Darrell
WWW.aroundthewoods.com