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Scott
7th May 2011, 10:30 PM
I recently saw some turned pieces with the makers name inscribed on the bottom of their work. The inscription looked as though it was done in black ink. Does anyone do this and if they do, how?

Thanks in advance - Scott.

Toymaker Len
7th May 2011, 10:46 PM
We just use a black artline fibre pen about .5mm. Seems to work fine under any finish. People like to know who made the piece and what kind of wood it is.Heres a sample. The stamp is burnt in but that is another story.

dai sensei
7th May 2011, 11:01 PM
I use an engraver backfilled with pigment or a burner, depending on the colour, type of the wood and value of piece

Scott
8th May 2011, 01:59 PM
Thanks Len & Neil, I've just invested in an artline pen as Len has suggested; thought it would be something as simple as that. As a matter of interest Neil, where did you get your engraver from?

-Scott.

dai sensei
8th May 2011, 07:16 PM
I have a dremmel and a high rev air tool for piercing that can also be used. I also have a range of different ball style engraving bits. The burner also works well, again using various ball burning bits.

Grommett
8th May 2011, 09:14 PM
I use a "Sharpie" extremely fine permanent marker. Get them at Safeways or the newsagent.

Grant Mack
11th May 2011, 04:44 PM
Neil,
Would you please tell me what your high rev air tool is i.e. die grinder or dentist drill and what size compressor you use to run it?
I have been trying to source info on dentist handpieces but keep coming up against a brick wall.
Regards
Grant

dai sensei
11th May 2011, 09:15 PM
It is a small air powered engraving tool, like a small pen, that connects to the compressor airline. I got it from "Crazy Sales" quite a while back for I think around $20. It runs at 10x speed of Dremmel. Unfortunately they don't sell them anymore. A Dremmel or similar will do the job though of engraving, I use the other for piecing and engraving, as it a light-weight and simple to hold.

I have a decent sized air compressor permanently mounted under my bench and piped around my workshop. I also have a smaller one I move around yard and when travelling with mobile lathe.

Hope this helps.

issatree
11th May 2011, 11:37 PM
Hi sjt,
I sign everything I make, within reason, & I use a Black Artline 200 - .04.
You can buy a 4 pack from O/Works for $9.29. If you keep the cap on when not in use you can get 6 - 8 months out on one.
You must use the pen on raw timber, & if you use EEE it will take the writing off, as it is an abrasive polish ?.
It will not work very well over your polish. I have yet to find any finish that will remove the writing.
So on my work, I would write : Bill Jones, Geelong, Australia. 1152011. Cypress.
I write the 1st. 4 words, then the date Nos. are run into one another, & print the wood.
I put Australia, because a lot of my work goes overseas. Quite proud of that.
Just thought, the writing does not go on Jarrah to good, so if I'm using it, I either Burn or Engrave my writing. I use a WEN Engraver, that I picked up at a Market somewhere for $4. You almost need the ear muffs on, as it is quite loud, when in use, & it pays to have a practice on a piece of waste timber.

Ed Reiss
14th May 2011, 12:08 PM
Hi SJT...it's always good to add your name and the wood species, but you might want to not put a date. 3-4 seasons down the road and your trying like hell to sell that one piece from 4 years ago...cute Bonnie Jo has her eye on the piece, but then Bruno see's the date and says "Bonnie Jo, this wanker hasn't sold this in 4 years time...must be something wrong with it!"

Bye, bye sale:C

kcam
14th May 2011, 02:34 PM
It is a small air powered engraving tool, like a small pen, that connects to the compressor airline. I got it from "Crazy Sales" quite a while back for I think around $20. .
Good to see another fan of "Crazy Sales" I have the same engraving tool that I use for piercing to supplement a Dremel using dentist bits, very effective and a lot cheaper than a dentist tool itself.....on the engraving of my work I use a Pyrography pen,listing my name and timber and sometimes a motif :)

munruben
14th May 2011, 08:33 PM
Hi SJT...it's always good to add your name and the wood species, but you might want to not put a date. 3-4 seasons down the road and your trying like hell to sell that one piece from 4 years ago...cute Bonnie Jo has her eye on the piece, but then Bruno see's the date and says "Bonnie Jo, this wanker hasn't sold this in 4 years time...must be something wrong with it!"

Bye, bye sale:CGood point about the date.You could always use a code for your own records if you needed to know the date of a particular piece you made.

robo hippy
17th May 2011, 04:34 PM
I tried the Sharpies for a while, but they tended to bleed, especially with the Walnut oil finish that I use. I found some art type 'Archival India Ink' type pens that worked better. I do have to let them dry over night. They will penetrate hard/cured finishes, but don't like the soft (walnut oil) finished after the finish has been applied, until it is totally dry. I did fine some 'Paint Pens' that wrote in a heavier line, and came in a couple of colors for the darker woods.

robo hippy

bassmansimon
12th May 2012, 09:02 PM
Hi sjt,
You must use the pen on raw timber, & if you use EEE it will take the writing off, as it is an abrasive polish

sorry to bring back up an old thread, but if using EEE, could you use the pen afterwards? I understand that it can't go before EEE, but what about after?

I'm starting to do a few bowls which ONLY get finished with EEE - no "real" finish on the top. Any suggestions for how to inscribe/sign this work?

_fly_
12th May 2012, 11:00 PM
Good point about the date.You could always use a code for your own records if you needed to know the date of a particular piece you made.
Another way to mark a date is use the day of the year 001-365 and for the year count from something special, your own birthday, a kids birthday etc. so then you get numbers like 13452
134th day of year (today) and I'm 52 now.
Others think its a item number or cat no or who cares but you'll know.
Peter

issatree
13th May 2012, 12:54 AM
Hi bassmansimon,
I'm not sure about that.
Seems to me that you may want to go the Pyrography way.
The other way you might like is to write on the bare wood & finish that small bit with one of the Shellawax Products, be it Cream or Glow or the Straight Shellawax.
Maybe you could try it out on a test piece of wood, the way you want it.
As somebody said if you date it the normal way, yes, they may not want to buy it, but if you do it Fly's way or the way I do it by running the Nos. into one another, eg. 1252012.
I have been told that they couldn't get me on the Ph. as that was the Library's Ph. No.
You don't have to explain to them before they buy the item, but being a bit sneaky,
explain, " Oh, the Nos. on the piece are the date ", after it is in the paper bag & wrapped.
I also put a My Card in with everything I sell. Yes, you go through a few Cards, but then again you do get Ph. Calls or Emails, for another Item.

hughie
14th May 2012, 08:34 PM
I have a dremel but find the rpm a bit slow at times. Have a burner its ok but not much chop on dark timber.

Probably the dremel would do with dentistry bits and then fill them an opposite colour to the timber, dunno, have to look into it.

issatree
14th May 2012, 09:06 PM
Hi Hughie,
Yes, you have a problem with the likes of Jarrah, Giddgee, Queens Ebony, etc.
I have a Red " Wen " Engraver that works well on those Dark Woods.
It pays to have a bit of a practice first, as with the Wen, you can increase the Vibrations, by turning the knob.
I also found, that it was better to have the Wen Upright, than on a slight angle as we do with a pen.
You just write normally, & it comes out great.
Have tried to then, run a White Paint Pen, the one with the Ball Bearing in it, but you have to be quick to rub off the excess, as it fills the writing in.
Hope that Helps a little.

Paul39
15th May 2012, 12:34 AM
Hi SJT...it's always good to add your name and the wood species, but you might want to not put a date. 3-4 seasons down the road and your trying like hell to sell that one piece from 4 years ago...cute Bonnie Jo has her eye on the piece, but then Bruno see's the date and says "Bonnie Jo, this wanker hasn't sold this in 4 years time...must be something wrong with it!"

Bye, bye sale:C

I saw a large bowl in a high end gallery priced at $3500 dated 5 years back and had the same thought.

I sign and number my pieces with a date code. 1201 being the first piece of 2012, 1225 the 25th piece, etc.

I use a crafts shop to sell most of my pieces on consignment. If something hasn't sold in a year I bring it back home and refurbish a bit and take it back in 6 months or a year. That way regular visitors don't see the same piece all the time.

corbs
19th May 2012, 10:13 AM
I sign mine with name and wood using a cd labelling pen. It has a thin nib on one end and a thicker one on the other. I use Kunos Oil for my finishes and haven't had any problems with it yet.

I don't date mine for the same reasons stated above but had thought about numbering the pieces then having a log book for my work. Dates and prices could be in there with relevant information which could be used to price and see what worked and what didn't. I don't take it that seriously yet though :wink: