drill motor replacement

[jack620]

Gents,
I’ve got an old Taiwanese pedestal drill. It’s a good sturdy unit. It has a single phase, 3/4HP, 4 pole motor. There are three stepped pulleys and two V-belts which allow the drill speed to be varied from 215 to 2430RPM. Moving the belts is a P.I.T.A. so consequently I tend not to bother, unless I really have to.

I’d like to replace the old motor with a 3 phase motor and add a VFD. Obviously some form of adaptor will be required to mount the new motor onto the existing motor mount. The original motor has a keyed 5/8’’ shaft. Ideally the new motor would have the same.

I have a few questions I hope some of you can answer:

1. Should I remove the intermediate stepped pulley and replace the two belts with a single larger belt between the motor pulley and the drill head pulley?

2. Should I go for a motor with higher HP? How high?

3. Can anyone recommend a good supplier of 3 phase motors, preferably in Melbourne to save on freight?

4. There is lots of discussion in this forum about VFDs, but much of it seems to be about soft start, braking, reversing, remote controls, etc. I don’t need any of that stuff. Can anyone recommend a basic VFD that will be suitable for my task?

5. Have any of you guys done this conversion to a pedestal drill?

Appreciate any feedback.

Jack

[Dave J]

I have seen a few fitted with them and they work out fine. I would leave the pulley there because you might need the low down torque or the high speed.

Dave

[matthew_g]

It will be interesting to see the outcome of this....
Like you I believe it is a PITA to change speeds on all 3 of my pedestal drills so I have them all set at the slowest speed as all my drilling is into steel...If I need to drill small holes I do it on my smallest mill as it has a geard head, So speed change is at the flick of a lever.
Matt

[jack620]

Dave,
I'm glad to hear this has been successfully done before. I see your point about the extra torque being available with the intermediate pulley.

Matt,
I've only got the one pedestal drill and I use it for everything from 1mm holes in wood/plastic to16mm holes in steel and sometimes a 100mm circle cutter in timber. The circle cutter is the adjustable arm type and it gets seriously out of balance at larger diameters, so slow speed is essential.

[Greg Q]

If you don't ever change the belt now, why will you change it after the conversion?

If you get a 1.5 hp motor and belt it the same as your mid range ratio is you should be OK for both low and high rpm with plenty of torque. If the pulleys are balanced I'd be comfortable running the motor up to 100 Hz or so. At 25 Hz it will still be delivering the same h.p. that your current motor would on the low pulley ratio assuming a 2:1 step in ratios)

If you are able to turn new pulleys maybe think about using a serpentine belt conversion as they will transmit more torque, can tolerate smaller centre-to-centre distances and ares smoother. (But obviously it works well enough now with vee belts)

A VFD will allow you to run other tools effectively, like small drum sanders etc.

[jack620]

Hi Greg,
thanks for the feedback. I DO change the belts now, but not as often as I should. In an ideal world I would be able to vary my drill speed from very slow to full speed without belt changes while still having plenty of torque. If that is achievable with a bigger motor and a VFD, then I'm home and hosed. I don't have the facility for turning my own pulleys (yet).

I might leave the intermediate pulley in and see how it works before deciding whether to remove it.

I couldn't find any suitable new or used 3 phase motors ebay. Anyone know a good supplier of cheapish 3 phase motors?

jack

[Bryan]

Got any mates in the aircon industry? :)

[Stustoys]

Hi Jack,
It might take awhile on ebay, 3hp is more your standard motor, but keep looking. Maybe grays?

Have you thought about some mods that might make speed changing faster with what you have?
How it the center pulley mounted?

Stuart

[jack620]

Bryan,
no mates in the aircon industry I'm afraid.

Stuart,
I've attached a couple of photos of the drill. The main problem with changing the belts is that they are so tight I need to force them onto the pulley with a screwdriver while I rotate the pulley by hand. The motor adjustment doesn't have enough travel to slacken the belts enough to make them easy to move. I suppose I could alleviate that with a slightly larger belt, but that might cause slippage. I like the idea of rotating a knob to change speed!

Jack

[Stustoys]

Thats not the original motor.(well at least I'm pretty sure it isn't)
Can you turn this plate around?
Is the center pulley spring loaded or bolted down?

Stuart

p.s. changing speeds on this sort of drill shuold take about 30 seconds(depending on the center pulley)

[Bryan]

Yeah something's wrong with that picture. The motor shaft is right at the back of the cover hole, but nearly at the front of its travel on the foot mount.

My old Waldown has a similar setup, with the idler pulley on an eccentric, and I can change it in maybe 10 seconds. Easy as pie. No screwdrivers required, or any tools for that matter. That's how it should be.

[jack620]

The motor and mounting plate sure look original. I don't think the mounting plate can be reversed. The motor casing sits between the sides of the plate and I think the plate is welded to the sliding arms. I'll check tomorrow.

The centre pulley is mounted to a free-floating idler arm (no spring).

I removed the motor a few months ago to adjust the position of the pulley .The original owner had screwed the pulley's grub screw into the keyway without a key fitted. It took some removing. Anyway, I'm now wondering if I put the belts back the wrong way. Initially I thought it wouldn't matter, but now I'm not so sure.

Jack

[Stustoys]

I was thinking the belts were the wrong way around but the same as you couldn't convince myself it would make any difference.

Can you measure the blue arrowed gap, removed the belts, then see how much further the motor will move out before the pulley starts hitting the guard?
Stuart

p.s. do you have a lath?

[jack620]

OK, the suspense was killing me so I went outside and checked.

The motor is a slightly lighter shade of green than the rest of the drill, so it's probably not the original.

The mounting plate is not reversible.

The belts are different sizes (A25 and A26). Reversing them didn't help. If I replace the A25 with another A26 I reckon I will run out of adjustment in the tensioners because the motor is already touching the back of the pulley housing.

jack

[jack620]

I'll measure the gap tomorrow Stuart.

I'm currently searching for a Hercus 260ATM. They're a bit like hen's teeth.

[bob colles]

I have a similar problem - My drill needs a new spring in its handle / shaft mechanism. The spring that I need looks like a coiled ribbon. Its an old Waldown so I have been searching the junk shops of sydney for a replacement. Me thinks I will have to buy a new drill when this one finally craps out.

[jack620]

Actually, I was wrong to say swapping the belts didn't help. I was able to fit the belts without a screwdriver after swapping them, but it was still an effort.
jack

[Stustoys]

While you are measuring things, can you take a guess that the distance from the bottom of the motor to the (I assume) heads of the bolts holding the plate to the sliding bars. I would think the motor is flat across the feet. So if you use c/sink bolts that might let you turn the plate around(you'll need some spaces). That would get you 15mm or so more travel. That might be enough.
Are you in the east?
Stuart

[Stustoys]

Bob,
Is the spring broken?
Stuart

[Oldneweng]

In a perfect world you should be able to release the motor/belt tension lock knob, pull the motor towards front with one hand and remove belt with the other. Slippage can be prevented by pushing motor away and tightening this knob again. However a perfect world is not what we always have.

If the motor has been changed the dimensions could be anything! I also like the idea of using a knob to adjust speed. I just don't have the money for that. Sigh. I usually leave my drill set on the one speed and hope it works ok.

My problem is that the idler mechanism is not straight. My whole drill rattles and shakes as it revolves. I pulled the front pulley off, removed quill and shaft etc because of a difference in belt/pulley alignment. The front shaft that the quill slides up and down in was held in place by a plastic sleeve which was several mm smaller than the bore and distorted from the grub screw holding it in place(not).

I machined a new accurate steel sleeve so the front pulley is fixed properly in place. That fixed one problem. Then I discovered the idler problem. Now I have to rebuild the idler shaft. I think it is bent. The idler pulley is not parallel with the others. Then the motor mount will need to be replaced with a steel plate instead of tin foil and its height adjusted so all three pulleys will be aligned for the first time. Maybe then the drill will work better, or not!

Dean

[bob colles]

Stustoys

It is not broken, it seems to have stretched if anything, so I am on the lookout for another one - any suggestions?

[Stustoys]

Bob,
I can't remember having a good look at a Waldown but they normally have a way adjusting the tension (can't imagine that a waldown wouldn't). On most drills like Jacks its easy, there is a chrome cup on the left hand side, it unclips like a light blub and you just turn it until you get the tension you want. Maybe someone else with a Waldown can help. You're sure its a spring and not a counter weight?
Can you get some pictures?

Stuart

[Dave J]

I have a very similar drill press that I replaced the 240v 3/4hp motor with a 240v 1 1/2hp one. buy the looks of yours the motor has been replaced with a larger diameter one to the original, which is why the pulley sits back in the cover.

Dave

[bob colles]

Stuart

It is the spring- I have tightened it to buggery and there is still slack.:(

Granted there is a 99% probability I have done something wrong , however, I think I might go ahead and replace the spring.....if one can be found.

Either that or pick up one of those geared head Chinese drills that I can throw a taping chuck onto.


Bob

[Stustoys]

Bob,
Can you still wind the quill right down? The ones I have used if the spring is done up tight the quill cant move down. But as I've said I haven't had a good look at a waldown.

Stuart

[bob colles]

Stuart

That's right , if I go too tight the whole thing locks up....too loose and it dangles down about 3 inchs. With a vice on the table it is only giving me about 4" clearance on the usual stuff I have to drill. Lowering the table would be annoying as I would have to adjust the stop I put on the thing.

[Dave J]

I wonder if the Bridgeport one could be modified or would fit?

Dave

[Ropetangler]

Gents,
I’ve got an old Taiwanese pedestal drill. It’s a good sturdy unit. It has a single phase, 3/4HP, 4 pole motor. There are three stepped pulleys and two V-belts which allow the drill speed to be varied from 215 to 2430RPM. Moving the belts is a P.I.T.A. so consequently I tend not to bother, unless I really have to.

I’d like to replace the old motor with a 3 phase motor and add a VFD. Obviously some form of adaptor will be required to mount the new motor onto the existing motor mount. The original motor has a keyed 5/8’’ shaft. Ideally the new motor would have the same.

I have a few questions I hope some of you can answer:

1. Should I remove the intermediate stepped pulley and replace the two belts with a single larger belt between the motor pulley and the drill head pulley?

2. Should I go for a motor with higher HP? How high?

3. Can anyone recommend a good supplier of 3 phase motors, preferably in Melbourne to save on freight?

4. There is lots of discussion in this forum about VFDs, but much of it seems to be about soft start, braking, reversing, remote controls, etc. I don’t need any of that stuff. Can anyone recommend a basic VFD that will be suitable for my task?

5. Have any of you guys done this conversion to a pedestal drill?

Appreciate any feedback.

Jack

Hi Jack and All,
A VFD will help with avoiding frequent belt changes for speed alterations, but the range of speeds that you will wish to have is too broad for the VFD alone. The theoretical drilling speeds range from 20,000+ RPM (1 mm drilling plastic) down to about 100 RPM for the circle cutter in wood. The drill itself is not built to handle such high speeds, and most likely you don't really need them either, as they are more for the industrial applications.
If you follow Gregs advice and set your 3 phase motor on one of the mid speeds available to you now, say around 900 RPM, then with VFD control, you can easily drop to 600 RPM which is the correct drilling speed for HSS drills of 16 mm in mild steel, - this corresponds to a frequency of 33Hz and by increasing the frequency to 100Hz, you will have 1800 RPM which is about right for 5 mm. in mild steel. For drilling plastics the speeds increase around 2.5 times, and for wood I would guess about the same as plastic. With well balanced pulleys, you should be able to go to 5,000 RpM with your drill if you have lots of small holes to drill in plastic, but this will make belt changes necessary as will dropping down to 100 RpM for circle cutting.
I actually think that you would have no problems with a .75 HP or 1 KW 3 phase motor as they have much better starting torque than single phase motors, but even the 1.5 KW motor in 3 phase will most likely be physically smaller than your present one which might make belt changes much easier.
As for sourcing motors, you should have no trouble in Melbourne, call around the scrap yards, or refrigeration repair people and ask if they have anything. Heat pumps only last 5-10 years so I am told, and the blower motors may be useful, but the scrap metal blokes should have a good range, just look for 1 to 1.5 Kw and 1425 or so Rpm. If they look ok physically and don't smell cooked, they would be good candidates most likely.
Most VFDs have the features you mentioned, but you only have to use the features you want, and as for where to get them, look at eBay and get an idea of the going rates, and if no-one on the forum gives you the name of a good supplier, at least you have an idea of what you should be paying and one of the larger electrical workshops may even have a second hand one, if so they would likely give you a hand to set it up too. I hope that this helps, and I should add that I have no qualifications in things electrical at all, but I if I'm off track anywhere, someone else will chime in and put you (and me) :)straight. Cheers,
Rob

[jack620]

Thanks for all the replies. It's like having your own team of experts on tap!

Thinking about it last night I'm now convinced the motor is not original. It's too big, a slightly different colour and the motor pulley is busted. I reckon whoever changed the motor, hammered the original pulley onto the new motor with the grub screw partially engaged, thus breaking the pulley and gouging the keyway at the same time.

To be honest I think the easiest fix is to replace the motor with a correctly sized 3 phase motor. I reckon the drill is designed to have a motor with either a 71 or 80 series frame. i.e. 71mm or 80mm from the mounting foot to the shaft centre. The motor that's on it now is 100mm from foot to shaft. From my research so far, the 71 series seem to be limited to 3/4HP and the 80 series go up to 1.5HP. I can get a new 1.5HP 80 series motor for $174:

Royce Cross Australia - (http://www.roycecross.com.au/product_list/pages/product.php?Operation=SetSessionVariable&Variable)[ProductCodeID]=TD2GD

Only trouble is it's 2 pole (2820RPM). If I want a 4 pole motor I need to go to a 90 series frame and I'm starting to run into the same problem I have now with clearance. Also the 90 series has a 24mm shaft, which will increase the minimum size of the stepped drive pulley.

So, what do you guys think about using a 2 pole motor instead of the 4 pole that's on the drill now? I'm not even sure the original was 4 pole anyway.

My plan would be to fit the new 3 phase motor without the VFD initially (I've got 3 phase power in the workshop) and add the VFD when funds allow. Of course, with a 2 pole motor and no VFD my minimum speed would be double what it is now. That would give a min speed of 430RPM which seems a bit high.

Thoughts?

[Bryan]

Good plan Stan. :)

[Greg Q]

Thanks for all the replies. It's like having your own team of experts on tap!

Thinking about it last night I'm now convinced the motor is not original. It's too big, a slightly different colour and the motor pulley is busted. I reckon whoever changed the motor, hammered the original pulley onto the new motor with the grub screw partially engaged, thus breaking the pulley and gouging the keyway at the same time.

To be honest I think the easiest fix is to replace the motor with a correctly sized 3 phase motor. I reckon the drill is designed to have a motor with either a 71 or 80 series frame. i.e. 71mm or 80mm from the mounting foot to the shaft centre. The motor that's on it now is 100mm from foot to shaft. From my research so far, the 71 series seem to be limited to 3/4HP and the 80 series go up to 1.5HP. I can get a new 1.5HP 80 series motor for $174:

Royce Cross Australia - (http://www.roycecross.com.au/product_list/pages/product.php?Operation=SetSessionVariable&Variable)[ProductCodeID]=TD2GD

Only trouble is it's 2 pole (2820RPM). If I want a 4 pole motor I need to go to a 90 series frame and I'm starting to run into the same problem I have now with clearance. Also the 90 series has a 24mm shaft, which will limit the minimum size of the stepped drive pulley.

So, what do you guys think about using a 2 pole motor instead of the 4 pole that's on the drill now? I'm not even sure the original was 4 pole anyway.

My plan would be to fit the new 3 phase motor without the VFD initially (I've got 3 phase power in the workshop) and add the VFD when funds allow. Of course, with a 2 pole motor and no VFD my minimum speed would be double what it is now. That would give a min speed of 430RPM which seems a bit high.

Thoughts?

I think that may be too fast for a basic speed set. A large bit in steel will want a lot slower than that.

Since you already have three phase though, it makes your choice of VFD cheaper. I bought an ACTech 1.5kW 400v class (400-440) used on ebay USA for $70 for example.

Greg

[Greg Q]

Stuart

That's right , if I go too tight the whole thing locks up....too loose and it dangles down about 3 inchs. With a vice on the table it is only giving me about 4" clearance on the usual stuff I have to drill. Lowering the table would be annoying as I would have to adjust the stop I put on the thing.

Bob, Waldown still sell spares for old drills. I bought a worm gear set from them a few months ago. They also have parts diagrams online.

Greg

[Stustoys]

Greg, Do you have a link to waldown? I wasn't able to find them(although the brobo site doesnt work the best for me)
Thanks
Stuart

[Greg Q]

Here ya go Stuart:

http://www.brobo.com.au/pdf/3m_drill_manual.pdf

That's the manual for the benchtop drill. I recall now that I had to get the part number from the drawing and ring them, as their website doesn't show parts. They are friendly enough, but I don't know if they do mail order.

Greg

[Stustoys]

Greg,
Thanks for that.

Bob,
Someone hasn't done the bolts up to tight that close the slot in the casting where the quill comes out?
Stuart

[Bryan]

Jack when I said good plan I meant the part about fitting your motor and doing the VFD later. Fitting a 2 pole I don't think will work. As Greg has pointed out your pulleys will be all wrong. I think it depends on how much of a hurry you're in. You could watch and wait for the right motor to come along. If you keep an eye on the local auctions something is bound to turn up. You could also consider a single phase donk of the correct size. If one came along pretty cheap it might be worth doing. Another option is to modify your pulley housing to give more travel so you can fit a longer belt. May not be pretty but solves the problem and gives you a lot more freedom in what motor you fit. If that makes you squeamish you could remove your old guards completely, store them and knock up something from scratch. Heck, my Waldown doesn't even have guards, except for a nosecone. :oo:

[mike48]

Hi Jack and everyone,
That drill press looks identical to mine which is 1985 vintage, Taiwanese, and branded “Sharp SE-330B”. The original receipt shows $236! There were many variations and brand names.
By coincidence, I am cleaning, oiling and greasing mine at present, so it is all apart.

Jack, the following may be of interest.
Mine is original, except I have removed the idler pulley assembly and just use one V belt now. I got fed up with noise and vibration. I rarely change speed except for some specialized grinding and drilling. It is all much simpler now, and I have reduced the vibration from the drill press a little, but a single phase motor will always have some, especially the cheaper ones. Three phase motors have lower inherent vibration. Good old Mr. Tesla.

My original belts are marked A25 for the front and A26 for the rear. My case is marked with Texta pen as to what went where from the old days when I used two belts.
My front pulley is 5 step 75 to 135mm extreme outer rim dia.
The idler pulley is 5 step 45 to 115 mm extreme outer rim dia.
The motor pulley is 4 step 45 to 90 mm extreme outer rim dia.

With the original belts and idler installed, and the setup arranged for my #8 at 625 RPM, the front belt is 3 steps up, idler 3 up, and the rear belt is idler 4 up, motor 3 up. With this arrangement there is 8mm of motor mount extension rod showing, and belt change is reasonably easy.

With no belts fitted, there is an adjustment “slide” range of 55 to 75 mm from the front of the motor cutout hole in the belt casing assy, to the shaft centreline. The cutout hole is 125 mm dia. and when the motor is set approximately in the centre of the cutout hole, the motor shaft centre is 390mm from the quill drive shaft centre.
The motor is approximately in the hole centre when the “rods” are half extended.

The motor is marked Sharp 3/4 HP 1500 RPM 4 pole 240 volt 50Hz, and is a traditional design mix of metric and imperial, just like some cars.
The motor is 160mm dia, overall case length 195mm, and with 55mm of shaft protrusion. The shaft is 0.624 inch dia, and slotted for a 3/16 inch square key. The motor shaft centerline axis is 80mm from the plane of the bottom side of the motor mount base. The shaft end is 45mm above the sheet metal bottom belt casing, and 35mm below the top of the quill drive shaft top (when at rest ie quill at top).
The motor base has mount holes at 3 inch centres vertically, and approx 4.75 inch/122mm horizontally, as sensed when the motor is mounted on the drill press.

Current Operation
The new belt is a Bosch automotive 10 mm V belt type 11A1030, and used with the rear motor pulley raised 8mm or so from the original vertical position on the motor shaft. I get a few speed changes centred around 750 RPM. Works very well for me in most jobs, including fly cutters.

My motor was modified slightly by an electrician.
It was arcing from the centrifugal start switch to case when switched on. He changed the wiring so that the start winding is connected to the end of the run winding instead of the original junction at the centre of the run winding. (These motors can be run on 115 or 230 volts; well sort of). He also changed the start capacitor from 165 MFD to a lower value. This changed the resonance effects of the start components and reduced the tendency to arc. After these two changes, there is no arcing now, and it starts nicely.

I have an original manual for my drill press. Not really useful for Jack’s specific problem. But, as I have a different question for the forum about modifying my unit, and I don’t want to hijack this particular thread, I will save it for a new post with the new question, unless someone wants it urgently.

I have used this drill press constantly for 26 years, and will probably need it in the next life too. A great and invaluable machine.

Hope that this all might just be of interest to some.

Cheerio, mike

[jack620]

Jack when I said good plan I meant the part about fitting your motor and doing the VFD later. Fitting a 2 pole I don't think will work. As Greg has pointed out your pulleys will be all wrong.

Bryan,
I agree totally. I've done some rough calcs and a 2 pole won't do the job even WITH the VFD. I want to be able to set very slow revs (below 200RPM) and ideally I would like to ditch the middle pulley. I wouldn't bother with another single phase motor. Since I have the luxury of 3 phase power I might as well take advantage of it. 3 phase motors seem to be cheaper. I can put the saving towards the VFD.
Jack

[jack620]

Mike,
Great post!
Mine is a Galaxy made in 1987. It has 4 stack pulleys of similar diameters to yours. I would like to get rid of the middle pulley as you did, but whether I can will depend on how slow the VFD will drive the new motor and with how much grunt. No point in reducing the revs down to 150RPM if there isn't enough HP to make the cut.

My motor has mounting holes at 75mm vertically and 125mm horiz. This doesn't seem to agree with the standard motor mounts of today. A new 80 series motor has hole centres of 100mm vert and 125mm horiz. The 90 series 4 pole motors have holes at 100mm and 140mm. Looks like I'm going to have to make an adaptor plate either way.

The current motor has a very long shaft which extends almost to the end of the stepped pulley. The new motors only have a 32mm (series 80) or 40mm (series 90) shaft. This seems very short. There isn't going to be much shaft in the pulley.

So here's plan B:
Fit a 1 1/2 HP, 3 phase, 4 pole motor plus VFD. These are 90mm from mounting foot to shaft centre. That gives me an extra 10mm of adjustment over the current motor. If I need more I can cut away 10mm or so of the guard as suggested by Bryan. I'll see how that works with the middle pulley removed. If it's no good at low revs I'll refit the middle pulley and change belts when the VFD can't get the revs low enough. The extra travel in the motor adjustment will make changing the belts easier anyway.

[bob colles]

You guys have got me fired up - I am pulling the thing apart tomorrow arvo

[mike48]

Jack and everyone,

By request.
Apologies, I should have done this anyway.

Here is the manual for my drill press, and should suit any number of these units as a generic. Not very well printed, but ...

Sharp SE330B Drill Press 5/8 chuck, 3/4 HP motor 230 V, round table, bench mount.
16 speeds, 160 to 3025 at 50Hz.
!985 vintage, made in Taiwan by "The Sharp Tool and Machinery Co".

The lamp is not original.

The attached PDF full manual is scanned at 200ppi, and I have also attached the exploded diagram and parts list scanned at 600 ppi.
The manual is for the drill press in the attached photo.

The print is our mystery art for today, and one of the loves of my life (the paintings); one of a trio.
Guesses anyone?

cheerio, mike

[RayG]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for posting the manual pdf's I have the exact same drill, branded "Peerless" Not as nice looking as yours however.
I think I got it in the mid 70's, It's never missed a beat, and still going strong.

Nice Renoir BTW.

Regards
Ray

[mike48]

Hi Ray

mais certainement - "La danse à la campagne".

With Aline and Paul, 1883

cheerio, mike

[jack620]

Exactly the same as mine too. Mine has a few wounds in the table tho. :)

[Dave J]

You have to make a mistake once or twice over the years or your just not having a go. LOL
Mine has 4 small mistakes, 2 are from me and the other 2 are from a mate using it years ago. When I put my table the the lathe and faced it up true, it got rid of one of them.
I only machined it because over the years it must have seasoned and moved a bit. Running the dial indicator on it while turning it around I could see it had highs and lows.
Last year I went through it, cleaned it up, new bearings and 1 1/2hp 240v motor and repainted it. I also added a foot switch which has been the handiest thing I have done to it. I can now have a hand on the down feed handle while holding the part with the other hand and switch it on and off with my foot. Great for when something grabs because you don't need to let go of the job to turn it off.

Dave

[Dave J]

Grizzly have a lot of drill manuals online which include a drilling speeds chart if anyone is interested.
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g7944_m.pdf

There are others just click on a drill that is similar to yours.
Grizzly.com® -- Machine Specifications (http://www.grizzly.com/products/mach-specs.aspx?key=380000)

Dave

[matthew_g]

Jack and everyone,

By request.
Apologies, I should have done this anyway.

Here is the manual for my drill press, and should suit any number of these units as a generic. Not very well printed, but ...

Sharp SE330B Drill Press 5/8 chuck, 3/4 HP motor 230 V, round table, bench mount.
16 speeds, 160 to 3025 at 50Hz.
!985 vintage, made in Taiwan by "The Sharp Tool and Machinery Co".

The lamp is not original.

The attached PDF full manual is scanned at 200ppi, and I have also attached the exploded diagram and parts list scanned at 600 ppi.
The manual is for the drill press in the attached photo.

The print is our mystery art for today, and one of the loves of my life (the paintings); one of a trio.
Guesses anyone?

cheerio, mike

That's my drill...:o
Same brand, same color, BUT mine is a hell of a lot more messy and dirty:C
The conclusion is that I must do more work:o:roll::no:
NOT

[RayG]

Hi Ray

mais certainement - "La danse à la campagne".

With Aline and Paul, 1883

cheerio, mike

Hi Mike,

Our dining room had a "Renoir Period", I think it was after the big Renoir exhibition in Melbourne a few years back, and we ended up with a few poster prints. Good choice.

Regards
Ray