Mdf + Solid wood veneer

[dzplay]

hello all,

what are the thoughts of solid wood veneer on MDF? working on a 3/4" circular table top (occasional table) and wanted to put ash veneer on the top.

is this advisable and what type of glue shall I use?

thanks!

[Handyjack]

I would try using a contact adheasive. Depending on how you do it you may or may not be able to reposition the veneer so allow for trimming.

[AlexS]

Contact adhesive is what it says - when it makes contact, it adheres. You almost certainly wont be able to move it.
I use Titebond II (not a contact adhesive). Clean the surfaces with metholated spirits (alcohol) and put an even coat of glue on each surface. Allow to dry for at least an hour, then position the veneer, cover with a sheet of brown paper and press down with a hot iron. Whatever you use, you will need to allow for trimming later.

[elanjacobs]

Stupid question: why not buy veneered MDF to start with?:?

[MrShuffles]

Hi all,

Don't want to hijack dzplay's post and query but I am heading the same way with a home office desk, intending to get Vic Ash veneered particleboard. (that is MDF)

He is probably like me, probably have to buy a sheet of veneer and apply it myself so as to have extra veneer available for thickened edges.

Veneer in role only comes 19 mm wide i believe.

[spencer411]

what handyjack said and what alexS says, although i'd just stick it down wet (the titebond II option) and clamp the hell out of it. I do a hell of a lot of veneering at work and we just use contact adhesive. Spray/roll it on the veneer and substrate, leave them both for about 10 mins so that the contact becomes tacky (judge using the back of your hand, if the hair sticks to the contact it's still too wet) then apply the veneer to the mdf.. Make sure you give the mdf a bit of a sand before applying the contact, this makes it adhere better. Now as far as a finish goes, because contact is solvent based you have to be careful that the finish you use isnt to heavily thinned out. If it is heavy on the thinners then the first 2-3 coats make them very, very light coats, otherwise the veneer will bubble and possibly peel off.

I hope this helps you out a bit..

spencer..

[mn pete]

Would TiteBond III be a better choice? I think it has a longer set time and is waterproof...if you think drinks might be set on the table.

[dzplay]

thanks everyone. doesn't sound too hard after all.

i have an oil finish. that should be ok?

[spencer411]

should be fine, just check what the finish is based on. I just oiled a veneered chair with danish oil, the veneers were glued down with titebond II and it all worked perfectly..

[kcam]

I've had good success using Shelly's PVA+ Exterior the advantage that I found was if you had any unexpected "bubbles" in the veneer it is an easy process to iron them out with a warm iron. The iron on process can also be used for small items spread the glue evenly on both surfaces, let it go off (dry) place the veneer in place and iron on. Have not used Titebond so can not comment on its effectiveness for the process.
The other laminate that I have used is 1.5mm ply glued to 16mm MDF and at the time worked out cheaper than veneered MDF and is by far a better finish.
I attach a pic of the result.Ply is silky oak, legs turned laminated silky, edge strip solid silky under desk support recycled floor board....proved to be a very functional piece....Kerry