Cross Slide Threading Stop

[Anorak Bob]

A while back when I was making a swivel base for a Hercus T & C grinder vise, I needed to scribe 360 degree lines radially and in three different lengths. I considered making a stop based on the original South Bend accessory of which I had a number of photos. But being prone to idleness, I called Hercus. They had one for a reasonable price though the wrong colour:doh:, which I promptly purchased. Here it is, tastefully repainted in the correct colour and mounted for use. The little stop worked perfectly when applied to graduating duty and is ideal for repetitive turning to a set depth.

I have never used it as a threading stop.

For those more motivated, it would be a simple thing to make.

BT

[pipeclay]

Was that around $25/$30.

[Dave J]

Nice little stop and it looks like the graduations turned out nice, great job:2tsup:

Dave

[Anorak Bob]

I can't lay my hands on a receipt Peter, but I'd say somewhere around 50. Might have been a touch less.

BT

[Anorak Bob]

Nice little stop and it looks like the graduations turned out nice, great job:2tsup:

Dave

What turned out better Dave, were the stamped numbers. I used the vise to hold a jig which in turn held the stamp.

BT

[Dave J]

Sounds like a brilliant idea, any chance of a picture of the jig and a close up of the numbers?

Dave

[Anorak Bob]

Dave,

Here are a few self explanatory photos of both the graduating and stamping process.

BT

[Greg Q]

Is Bob...Is Good!

[Stustoys]

lol +1 for Gregs comment

Great work as always BT.
What sort of paint do you use? primer? I have a few things that could use some color(not that shade of green though)
Sorry if this has been asked before.

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

Thanks for puffing me up boys. It's just about minimising the chance for errors to occur and I have a certain expertise in stuffing things up so I need all the help I can get.

No primer. The paint is a concoction of a number of colours from the range offered by Model Master - Model Master - Testors Model Master - Testors (http://www.testors.com/category/135232/Model_Master). The stippled application covers the tell tale brushmarks. The paint must soften somewhat when in contact with oil. My affinity for cast iron has resulted in my 3 inch Hercus vise ( painted as above) looking a bit shabby, due to impregnation of iron dust. Paint is a bit of an Archilles heel when it comes to refurbishment. Spraying enamel chips off too readily, this stuff is too soft. What's the answer? What is the paint you are using on your Deckel, Gregory?

BT

[Greg Q]

Bob, I am using what seems to be a basic garden-variety enamel from Wagon Paints (a local manufacturer a few miles away). I asked the world from the paint dealers but the answer is always a two-pack cryano hardener product that requires industrial strength respiratory protection. The default non-toxic option was the enamel, which I must say sticks well without primer on cast iron.

My favourite paint so far is still White Knight Epoxy Emanel which you can purchase in tintable containers. An average + I.Q. retailer should be able to colour match it. Brushes beautifully, and is very durable. I only bought Wagon because they would mix to RAL colours (The European colour scheme...the equivalent of the DIN standard for the eyes).

The Americans who take a practical approach to this seem to champion tractor paint-it is grease and dreck tolerant, so if you can get same locally in the right colour that would be another option.

Greg-who really does admire your work Bob, and your photos of ditto.

[Dave J]

Thanks for taking the time to post the photo's Bob.:2tsup:
The numbers and scribe lines came out nice and clean looking. It would be hard to guess they where hand done.

I think we are all waiting to see paint on Greg's machines.

Dave

[Greg Q]

Yeah, you and me both:D

I am going to take the phone off the hook (do phones still have those?) on Tuesday and beaver away at the machine for a few days. I hope to have the Deckel and the Hembrug cosmetically presentable by weeks's end, but as always, your actual mileage may vary:p

The Perrin and the shop layout/tools/etc have taken all of my time lately. My pesky family and their daily feeding needs have taken a toll too. Ingrates.

That said, I am expecting about six weeks of shop time soon. I hope to have everything finished by August, including paint. I may even have a sneak preview next week of the Deckel...only a day or so of cleaning/painting before the serious stuff starts (survey and scraping, repeat ad naseum)

[Stustoys]

Thanks Bob.

Can you get 2pac in wrinkle? The biggest pain with that would be the small amounts needed v clean up time(unless of course you were doing a complete machine).
Might have to come up with my own color, green is taken. lol

Stuart

[neksmerj]

Hi AB,

That is fantastic. I presume you scribed the graduations using a TCT insert mounted on the saddle of your lathe. I'm a bit dumb, trying to decipher the photos.

How did you space the number stamps, say No.10, ie a one and a zero?

Just love that green colour, together with machined bare metal, it's a great combination.

Did you move to WA so you wouldn't be pestered with the likes of us Southerners. Good move!

Ken

[Anorak Bob]

When I refurbished my Waldown drill press I used spraying enamel. Took about a week to be dry enough for reassembly of the components. Whilst the castings could have been more easily brush painted (no masking), the belt guards called for spray. The enamel was applied over primer. In reality I can't assess the durability of the product I used because it is applied to surfaces not subject to the scouring of swarf or the impact of tools etc. The drill's table is a new powder coated replacement. That finish is durable but unfortunately, not many of us have access to our own powder coating facilities.

When I started painting the Hercus mill, I used a 2 pack iso-cyanate finish along with a Sundstrom respirator and appropriate filters. That paint has worn off in places as a result of repeated cleaning and has suffered chipping from impact.

I wonder whether the soft primer is more a a detriment to durability than the suggested aid to adhesion.

I have had good results with brush on White Knight applied directly to cast iron. The rough cast surface obviously provides a good key for the paint. One of the blokes at work has a cast iron hydraulic base for his drawing board. He painted the base about ten years ago, satin black with a White Knight rattle can. Knowing him there would have been little, if indeed any, surface preparation. He would have painted directly over the original silver hammertone. Other than scuffing from his cheap leather shoes, the paint looks as good as when it was first applied.

A far as stamped numbers go, to give yourself a chance of alignment, leave Young Brothers stamps alone. The numerals are not located in the same position on each stamp. The stamp in the photo above is from a Hanson set made in Taiwan.

BT

[RayG]

Is Bob...Is Good!

Couldn't have said it better...

Hi Ken,

That's a tct threading insert turned on it's side for scribing the lines, and the number spacing looks like the punching jig is indexed a fixed number of degrees to set the number spacing equally either side of the longer scribed lines. I'm sure BT can correct me if I've got it wrong.

Nice work as always, still not totally convinced about the color, but it does look "factory".

Regards
Ray

[Anorak Bob]

Hi AB,

That is fantastic. I presume you scribed the graduations using a TCT insert mounted on the saddle of your lathe. I'm a bit dumb, trying to decipher the photos.

How did you space the number stamps, say No.10, ie a one and a zero?

Just love that green colour, together with machined bare metal, it's a great combination.

Did you move to WA so you wouldn't be pestered with the likes of us Southerners. Good move!

Ken

KJ, I used my threading tool mounted sideways in the tool post, for the scribing.

To locate zero, I did a trial using a piece of masking tape located on the cast iron where I intended the zero to be . Gentle pressure on the stamp marked the tape. This technique allowed for fine adjustment, ie repeated trials. When the correct stamp position in relation to the scribed line, was established, I stamped all the zeros. Then I stamped the remaining numbers using the same tape trial technique. Bit hard to describe.

In the thread about tool storage, I included a photo just for you.

If I didn't enjoy the pestering I wouldn't be on this forum.:U


p.s. I needn't have bothered laboring over the typing , Ray has said it all.

[pipeclay]

Excuse my lack of knowledge with leather shoes but why do the cheap ones scuff surfaces,and if known what price would need to be paid for the non scuffing type?

[Stustoys]

BT,
Did you have any trouble chipping the edge off the carbide? My experience with carbide is that if its in a cut and you try and back it up the edge comes off. Of course I've only done this twice. lol

Stuart

[Col2310]

Excuse my lack of knowledge with leather shoes but why do the cheap ones scuff surfaces,and if known what price would need to be paid for the non scuffing type?

Pipeclay
You have a hide to ask that question.:wink:
Ask your wife,girlfriend,partner etc. They know all about shoes:D

Col

[Anorak Bob]

BT,
Did you have any trouble chipping the edge off the carbide? My experience with carbide is that if its in a cut and you try and back it up the edge comes off. Of course I've only done this twice. lol

Stuart

Stu, I managed to do it 360 times on the base without mishap. Bear in mind, I would have only been cutting to a depth of maybe 4 thou. I have snapped the tips off other inserts doing things I shouldn't.:doh:

BT

[Anorak Bob]

Excuse my lack of knowledge with leather shoes but why do the cheap ones scuff surfaces,and if known what price would need to be paid for the non scuffing type?

I dare say any shoes are good for scuffing, Peter. In this case the bloke, one of the directors, wouldn't have been wearing expensive shoes because he is a tight ar.e. I reckon he had his Mum sew up his pockets.

[RayG]

BT,
Did you have any trouble chipping the edge off the carbide? My experience with carbide is that if its in a cut and you try and back it up the edge comes off. Of course I've only done this twice. lol

Stuart

I've done that, usually, when threading and stopping the lathe while it's in the cut and if the chip hasn't broken away, then, when you back up the tip of the threading insert snaps off. Lighter cuts perhaps?

Regards
Ray

[aametalmaster]

NICE....Bob

[Stustoys]

I've done that, usually, when threading and stopping the lathe while it's in the cut and if the chip hasn't broken away, then, when you back up the tip of the threading insert snaps off. Lighter cuts perhaps?

Regards
Ray
Yes Ray just like that and backing a boring bar out of a bore with the mill off. I guess in both cases the cut could well have been much more then 0.004".

Bob , did you just go in and out with the crossslide or did you move the tool back at the end of each cut?

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

I lost the end of my threading insert exactly as Ray described. The down side of not having a runout groove. It was when I was cutting metric threads by hand, using transposing gears.

Stu, when I scribed the graduations, I only advanced the tool then moved the saddle back away from the job. I have a micrometer saddle stop which makes life easy.

Bob.

[Stustoys]

Thanks BT,
One of these days I hope to do something similar

Stuart