PDA

View Full Version : Shed flooring



inferno6688
31st May 2011, 12:47 PM
Hi guys,

I am currently planning my new shed. It will be around 6x3m tin shed (maybe Stratco). Still researching which supplier. I have a sloped backyard (sloping up hill), and very difficult access to the back, so i am thinking of going with a timber floor rather than concrete slab. Issues i have with a concrete slab is more earthworks to cut/fill a level platform, and I would need to a get concrete pump in to get the cocnrete in. Will be a largish line pump as it needs to go about 25m and up hill!

What i am thinking is doing timber flooring, with bearers sitting on stirrups concreted into the ground or on piers, then joists on top.

What type of timer and timber sizes should i be looking at? I am thinking of using H3 treated pine.
Which direction should i run the bearers?
what type of spacing should be looking at for the bearers and joists?

now what i am most worried about is what do i use for flooring? Is the yellow tongue flooring particle board ok? i am worried it will not be weather proofed enough. ie. it is essential exposed underneath. I will probably sheet it with something else on top of the wearing surface.

how does my idea sound? is it feasible?

sorry for all qeustions, but i am at the early stages of planning!

thank you in advance:2tsup::2tsup:

jasons673
31st May 2011, 01:59 PM
Depending on the slop, it still might be advise able to cut and fill the proposed area, before putting up the floor for the shed. You'll only pay about $ 90 p/h for a bob cat, they can get a lot achieved in just a few hours. I've just done my sub floor in Dura gal RHS for the deck, and will do the same for my shed that'll be 10 x 6mts. Having the area levelled will reduce the exposure the under side of the boards.
Google Dura gal flooring systems that well give you some info on how to build your floor, spacing etc. cheers Jason

inferno6688
31st May 2011, 03:24 PM
i will look into the Duragal. I guess i figured if it was on stirrups, off the ground it would help weather proofing it. The earthworks side of things, i am not worried about. i am happy to make it flat, but i just figured its not really an issue if have its of fthe ground.
The main reason i don't want to do concrete, is i want to avoid the hassle of getting a concrete pump in for a small load of concrete

wun4us
31st May 2011, 10:59 PM
i will look into the Duragal. I guess i figured if it was on stirrups, off the ground it would help weather proofing it. The earthworks side of things, i am not worried about. i am happy to make it flat, but i just figured its not really an issue if have its of fthe ground.
The main reason i don't want to do concrete, is i want to avoid the hassle of getting a concrete pump in for a small load of concrete

You are right about the cost of the concrete pump for a quantity of probably around 2 m3; it would be a bit prohibitive.

As Jason says, RHS would make excellent bearers, and you wouldn't need any joists if you spaced them appropriately. I would still level the surface; makes it easier in the long run. Yellow tongue structafloor is good stuff and will last for many years; and providing you get the RHS bearers level, you will have a good floor to work on.

Best of luck and look forward to seeing your WIP pics:2tsup:

BobL
1st June 2011, 12:47 AM
Hi guys,

I am currently planning my new shed. It will be around 6x3m tin shed (maybe Stratco). Still researching which supplier. I have a sloped backyard (sloping up hill), and very difficult access to the back, so i am thinking of going with a timber floor rather than concrete slab. Issues i have with a concrete slab is more earthworks to cut/fill a level platform, and I would need to a get concrete pump in to get the cocnrete in. Will be a largish line pump as it needs to go about 25m and up hill!

How much slope are you talking about?

For my 6 x 4m shed (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/shed-builders-recommendation-perth-127060/)I had a 100 mm concrete floor installed. With no driveway and just a narrow footpath side access the closest access point for a concrete truck was 40 m from the shed and the two guys just barrowed the stuff in in very short order. I also had to install a 64 block limestone retaining wall with all blocks carried those 40 m using a sack trolley. I really didn't have any option, the termites are terrors in our area.

Shedblog Au
1st June 2011, 09:17 AM
If you are in an area where it gets cold and/or wet then I would suggest for personal comfort and additional protection of the floor that an insulating vapour barrier like Aircell retroshield, insulbreak 65 or a similar product be installed.

my74vw
1st June 2011, 12:02 PM
I have used LVL's (laminated veneer lumber) previously for a house extension. They are excellent for bearers and joists in that they are strong, light weight, straight and cost effective. If you have never seen lvl it looks like thick plywood. I was using 120 x 42 mm joists 10m long and lifted them myself, try that with hardwood!

Boringgeoff
1st June 2011, 09:07 PM
I'm with BobL, you're still going to need conc' for your stumps so how're you going to get that in?
If your crew is reluctant to use barrows I'd be looking for another crew.

inferno6688
2nd June 2011, 10:08 AM
I know concrete is ideal. My back yard it tiered with levels. so it would be up 3 steps, then another 8 steps, then another 2 levels each of 2 steps. there is are fair climb to get to the back, hence i am not keen on wheel barrowing 3m3 of concrete. would probably have to pay waiting time on the agi too!

the concrete for the stumps i will probably just use hand mix. Atleast no pressure with agi's waiting etc.

I will look into LVL's. they are great strong and straight bearers!

I am still worried about using the yellow tongue particle board on the floor. with the underside essentially exposed how that will hold up in the weather.

thanks guys, keep the ideas rolling :cool:

:2tsup:

BobL
2nd June 2011, 12:18 PM
I know concrete is ideal. My back yard it tiered with levels. so it would be up 3 steps, then another 8 steps, then another 2 levels each of 2 steps. there is are fair climb to get to the back, hence i am not keen on wheel barrowing 3m3 of concrete. would probably have to pay waiting time on the agi too!
OK I agree 15 steps is too many.


the concrete for the stumps i will probably just use hand mix. Atleast no pressure with agi's waiting etc.
And it gives you a good work out while doing it! :D


I am still worried about using the yellow tongue particle board on the floor. with the underside essentially exposed how that will hold up in the weather.
I'd definitely be insulating and that will protect the board as well.

wun4us
2nd June 2011, 11:50 PM
I know concrete is ideal. My back yard it tiered with levels. so it would be up 3 steps, then another 8 steps, then another 2 levels each of 2 steps. there is are fair climb to get to the back, hence i am not keen on wheel barrowing 3m3 of concrete. would probably have to pay waiting time on the agi too!

the concrete for the stumps i will probably just use hand mix. Atleast no pressure with agi's waiting etc.

I will look into LVL's. they are great strong and straight bearers!

I am still worried about using the yellow tongue particle board on the floor. with the underside essentially exposed how that will hold up in the weather.

thanks guys, keep the ideas rolling :cool:

:2tsup:

If you are worried about the particleboard flooring, this is the link to the supplier for further info:
www.gunnersens.com.au (http://www.gunnersens.com.au)

Basilg
4th June 2011, 12:34 PM
Particle board is a much better floor to work on as it is easier on the legs & back, & sharp edges should you drop tools. I would suggest using flooring that is treated against termite attack, & laying Aircell insulation over the bearers which will provide greater comfort.

Regards

inferno6688
6th June 2011, 01:55 PM
good idea laying plastic/aircell down under the floorboards.

now just need to suss out who to get the shed from!

:cool::2tsup:

Dion N
7th June 2011, 11:42 PM
My 6 x 4 m shed has a red tongue particle board floor on steel C channels. I have left the floor "as is."

It is much easier on the legs and feet than my previous workshop set-up on a concrete floor.

As I have pretty good access under the shed (quite a steep slope), I am planning to one day relocate the dust collector outside and run some piping to a few floor mounted dust collection points / grates that I can sweep shavings / sawdust into.

The other advantage of a floor on stumps / piers etc is the possibility of wood racks under the shed (if protected from termites).

On the down side, I have found that the tablesaw seems to vibrate a little more on the timber floor, but I have not tried bolting it down to see if that reduces the vibration.

wun4us
10th June 2011, 12:42 PM
My 6 x 4 m shed has a red tongue particle board floor on steel C channels. I have left the floor "as is."

It is much easier on the legs and feet than my previous workshop set-up on a concrete floor.

As I have pretty good access under the shed (quite a steep slope), I am planning to one day relocate the dust collector outside and run some piping to a few floor mounted dust collection points / grates that I can sweep shavings / sawdust into.

The other advantage of a floor on stumps / piers etc is the possibility of wood racks under the shed (if protected from termites).

On the down side, I have found that the tablesaw seems to vibrate a little more on the timber floor, but I have not tried bolting it down to see if that reduces the vibration.

A sloping site sure beats a reasonably level site any day; so much can be done with the under space. Even a gentleman's retreat:woot::woot:

Basilg
10th June 2011, 01:22 PM
My 6 x 4 m shed has a red tongue particle board floor on steel C channels. I have left the floor "as is."

It is much easier on the legs and feet than my previous workshop set-up on a concrete floor.

As I have pretty good access under the shed (quite a steep slope), I am planning to one day relocate the dust collector outside and run some piping to a few floor mounted dust collection points / grates that I can sweep shavings / sawdust into.

The other advantage of a floor on stumps / piers etc is the possibility of wood racks under the shed (if protected from termites).

On the down side, I have found that the tablesaw seems to vibrate a little more on the timber floor, but I have not tried bolting it down to see if that reduces the vibration.

A friend had the underside of his workshop set up for timber storage & dust extraction & it worked very well.

You may need to install some vibration isolation between the saw & the floor, & or bracing between the piers & bearers.

Regards

inferno6688
10th June 2011, 03:48 PM
that's what i was thinking about the space underneath too. run the dusty ducting out through the floor and then have a little cuboard outside to sit the dusty in.

:2tsup:

Harry72
10th June 2011, 08:48 PM
Cant you fit anymore than 6x3 on your site? Your going to a lot of trouble for a shed that small, upping the size a few metres wont cost all that much more.

wun4us
10th June 2011, 10:54 PM
now just need to suss out who to get the shed from!

:cool::2tsup:[/QUOTE]

Don't know of any shed builder who supply for timber floor sheds. You might try Abbsco; think that they market through Bunnings. In any case Bunnings might be a good start.
Best of luck:U

doug1
10th August 2011, 12:16 AM
Is it feasible to use a bobcat to bring in the concrete and so make the concrete base feasible?

wun4us
10th August 2011, 11:51 PM
Is it feasible to use a bobcat to bring in the concrete and so make the concrete base feasible?


I would hazard a guess and suggest that bthe best one to ask that question of would be the bobcat bloke. The likelihood of concrete getting on his wheels and perhaps the undercarriage of his unit would probably deter anyone. However, nothing ventured nothing gained.

Good luck:2tsup: