Folding Wedges for picture frame glue up

[woodbe]

Hi forum, long time no post :)

I've got a bit of an exhibition coming up and have started delving into the black art of picture framing. Like most who tinker in this stuff, I've had my share of failures and part of those failures have come about because of the methods of glue-up I have used. Basically, I've never been happy that I can glue a frame square, even if I have somehow managed to cut all the mitres correctly and get the lengths right.

Anyway, in my search for a solution, I came across George Berry's 'the old way is the good way' folding wedge framing setup on youtube:

YouTube - ‪Clamp a Picture Frame the Old Fashioned Way‬‏

I decided to give it a try. He doesn't give the dimensions of his wedges, I just had a bit of a guess looking at them in his hands. I cut a piece of hardwood into 9cm x 4cm blocks and then cut a pair of wedges out of each one 1.5cm (narrow end) x9cm x2.5cm (wide end) using a jig on the bandsaw. You need 16 for the picture frame jig in his video, I cut 18 to have a couple of spares.

This works so well, I just had to share it. You can manage the tension and the squareness of the frame easily with this jig. The only negative is that you cannot get to the back to clean up any glue squeezeout, but that's the sum of the minuses. You do have to remember to wax under the corners because of this or you land up with a beautifully square display jig for your workshop wall. :).

Pic enclosed for posterity...

woodbe

[joez]

Great jig, wegdes are a greatly underused trick by most woodies these days.

Do you actually need support under the actual mitre? You might be able to drill out a small access hole to get to the back for cleanup... would also eliminate the need for wax as well...


joe

[woodbe]

Good call, Joe.

I've used the holesaw to cut some 32mm holes under the mitre joins. I guess this would become a bad idea with wide frame material but mine are all around 22mm and I have multiple frames in just two sizes. 6 holes does it all for the moment.

Using titebond and backing it up with veezy nails after it has set.

woodbe.

[elanjacobs]

If you're going to be doing a lot of this type of work, I highly recommend investing in something like this: Hoffmann Schwalbe - MU-2 (http://new.hoffmann-schwalbe.eu/index.php/en/machines--high-technology-from-bruchsal/mu-basis--single-and-small-series-production/mu-2)

We have one at work and its incredible. The dovetail keys are self-aligning and self-clamping so it's literally a matter of gluing the join and tapping the key in. The stops and scale are remarkably accurate too so absolute repeatability is completely possible.

It's a fairly large investment (a few thousand $) but well worth it and we keep finding new uses for it.

[China]

If you are going to spend money on machinery just buy yourself a underpinner/v-nailer, eliminates the need the for cramping, and in most cases gluing

[woodbe]

Thanks elan and China,

China, what sort of machine is that, and what does it cost? Is that something you can get at Carbatec? I wonder how you get a nice tight and square frame without cramping?

I've just banged the Veezy nails into 5 different frames, and they were all easy except for the Redgum. Even the Jarrah was soft compared to that.

woodbe

[HazzaB]

Hey Woodbee,

I do a bit of Picture Framing and did a course with the Frameco Mob, Best Investment I have ever made, they sell some really good gear, that will give professional frames every time.

HazzaB

[China]

There are various ways to go you can buy hand tools that will insert v nails (cheapest option) you will still need to cramp, the other wat is a dedicated machine that cramps the joint for you and inserts the nails, normaly air operated, if you look hard you can find foot operated types, no you will not find one at Carbatec, you need to go to a specialist framing supplier they start at about $3.500.

[woodbe]

Fair enough. I couldn't justify that sort of cash for the odd frame stint.

Just finished the final sand and finish, these frames are the best I have ever done even if I do say so myself. Every joint is tight, every frame is square. Those are the things that matter regardless of how the frame was made.

woodbe.

[Robomanic]

Like the jig a lot and nice work on the frames.

Would it be worth setting down 2 strips permenantly at right angles (with a gap at the corner) and use the wedges for the remaining two sides? Maybe less fiddling while the glue is tacking up? Only good for square (or triangular) frames I guess but if it were along the very outside edge of the board you could still use it for irregular glue ups.

[Arron]

Thanks for that Woodbe. Its a great old idea but I had forgotten about it. Good solution for those of us who need the occasional frame. Shannons suggestion is a worthwhile improvement too.

I think it could also be easily adapted for a range of frame sizes if you make the fixed wedges on two sides movable - say by having a range of bolt holes each 30mm apart or something.

I have a similar sort of jig (not very good though) which uses a base of melamine - glue doesnt stick to it, so theres no worry about inadvertantly glueing the frame to the base.

cheers
Arron

[woodbe]

Thanks for the ideas, I'll try Shannon's idea next time I make a frame, my only reservation is that the individual wedges in each corner enable you to release and fix any misalignment on any corner - you'd have to release the other corners to work on a corner against the square.

Easy to test with clamps.

My tip for today is that if you're going to make a few frames in harder woods, consider a framing point driver gadget. I've been getting poor results with my veezy point driver in harder woods - the points just fold on themselves and refuse to enter the wood more than a mm or so, not enough to be reliable. Veezy suggest putting some thin steel under the point to stop it flexing (like a section of that steel pallet strapping). That helps to some extent, but ultimately you land up with bent points and lots of swearing. :)

So today, I tracked down a point driver. They are like a staple gun but for framing points - they fire the points at high speed into the wood. Also, they guide the point so that the tip inside the wood is slightly raised, leaving the tail pressing on the backing. Makes the final fitting a breeze. I suspect it will still struggle with the hardest woods, but I have managed to successfully fit up my Jarrah frame with it.

Several brands available at anywhere between $40 or so via ebay to around $300 locally at art supply joints. (ripoff!) I managed to find one that gets used by framing outfits but is not a well known brand. Cost about $100 with a lifetime supply of flexi points.

http://inmes.com.br/upload/produto_fotos/m/1176909441pistolafi-150m002capa.jpg

woodbe.