Absorb Garage moisture?

[haosiliu235]

I do my woodworking in my garage and I am renting.
I don't do woodwork as much now but every now and then I go into the workshop most of the machines would be covered in a thin layer of rust and the same goes with some hand tools.
I can't really do too much to the garage to moisture proof as I am renting and just wondering would moisture absorbers like these http://www.silicagel.com.au/categories/Superdry-Damp-Absorbers/ work?
Could anyone recommend anything else or any other solution?

Cheers

Harry

[HOOKED.UP]

You could try covering your machinery with some old blankets.

Also improve the ventilation in the shed if you can.

RUST is the germ of tools. :C

Paul.

[wun4us]

I do my woodworking in my garage and I am renting.
I don't do woodwork as much now but every now and then I go into the workshop most of the machines would be covered in a thin layer of rust and the same goes with some hand tools.
I can't really do too much to the garage to moisture proof as I am renting and just wondering would moisture absorbers like these http://www.silicagel.com.au/categories/Superdry-Damp-Absorbers/ work?
Could anyone recommend anything else or any other solution?

Cheers

Harry


G'day Harry,
The solution 'hookedup' supplied is as good as any. While silica gel will absorb some moisture, I would doubt its ability to absorb all the moisture in your garage. Besides that there would be an unwarranted cost. Do as 'hooked up' advises and check your gear as frequently as you can. As well, where you can, I would suggest a light spray of WD40 or similar and wiped over your tools will also assist in rust preventation.:2tsup:

Cheers

[Glider]

:whs: If you are really keen, you could invest in a dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers | Appliances Online (http://www.appliancesonline.com.au/dehumidifiers.aspx?002=2156148&004=2018156088&005=10128973&006=8287658208&007=Search&008=&gclid=CNisz4LijKoCFcYNHAodo1kc0g)

Mick :)

[Groggy]

I'd use some Silver Glide and then cover the machines with some silver-backed carpet underlay (make sure it is dry) scavenged from waste.

[rrobor]

I have the same issue. I have a 6 inch jointer and a reasonably good cast iron top table saw. Between projects it sits idle and in the cold of country Victoria my roof drips after a cold night. My cure is very simple and very cheap. I smear the top in grease after use (your choice) then I glad wrap it. When I need it, a wipe over with turps and its as new

[pjt]

I used to cover machine surfaces with blankets and the like but I found that the blanket itself absorbed moisture and the surface rusted anyway (only lightly tho) I now cover with pieces of masonite, in my (under the house shed) rust seems to form more readily on horizontal surfaces rather than vertical

Pete

[bsrlee]

The silica gell cartridges work fairly well in a sealed tool box, so that could be at least a partial soloution for your hand tools - you just need a tool box (or boxes) big enough to hold all your hand tools. Plus enough gell cartridges to allow you to rotate them as they become saturated - they just need a few hours in a warm oven to drive the moisture out - the colour of the gell beads change as water enters & leaves.

A plug-in dehumidifier really only works if you can get an air tight seal of the storage area, otherwise follow the advice given above - coat the unpainted metal with a grease or other rust preventer (Silverglide, Topsaver) then cover with a drop cloth.

[Master Splinter]

The stuff marketed as premium, long life cat litter (those white crystalline litters) are a cheap way of buying silica gel - $10 gets you a good kilo or so, but it's only going to work in a sealed environment.

[haosiliu235]

I usually rub silver glide over the surface when I am maintaining the machines but usually rub them off.
I'll prob try a combination of cat litter in the draws for the hand tool and leaving more silver glide on the machinery.
Thanks for the advice

Cheers

Harry!

[HOOKED.UP]

Think, improved ventilation/air flow would be your best long term answer.

Can you install a small fan, high in one end wall. ????

Perhaps even a small computer fan would be enough.

Also roof vents can help, if you are allowed to fit one.

Paul.

[rrobor]

As I said, it depends on idle time. If its a couple of weeks smear the top with grease then glad wrap it. It takes 10 mins to clean with turps but its very cheap and works. If its only a day or so, a cheap cover will do. My stuff Im never sure so Ive a big bottle of turps, a roll of glad wrap and some grease on hand over winter. Costs nixs to get going and to protect again. My other choices are to insulate the roof. MMM dont think her indoors would budget that into my allowance, Yup it would be a tough sell.

[haosiliu235]

Yea when I get busy I don't use it for a month or two but when I get some free time I feel like I am cleaning, rearranging and maintaining the workshop more than actually building stuff:doh:
Bought some cat litter crystals the other day, gonna make some fabric bags, fill it up with the crystals and scatter them in the workshop and in draws.

[Oldneweng]

I have seen references to rust problems a number of times and I have a problem with it myself. I am constantly amused at what some people think will work. The title of this thread seems to me to be a study in frustration.

This is only my opinion but here goes. Reference to drying aids in sealed (within reason) areas (cupboards etc) is logical. What is not logical is trying to dry the air in a garage or shed. The moisture is in the air. This air is constantly replaced by ventilation, unless the area is sealed. There is no force trying to circulate air in a sealed area inside a shed (cupboards etc) as the air in the shed is relatively still. There is a force acting on the shed itself. Wind. Air will circulate bringing in more moisture. If you feel your work area is sealed enough for drying to work then try it by all means but remember that air circulation is what is causing the problem. Air ciculation is also a good thing in any environment, particulary if you are working.

The next thing to consider is temperature. Hot air holds more water than cold air so when it gets cold the water wants to condense out of the air onto something handy. From having a shower you will know that glass is a good surface for this to happen. This is because glass is heavy and hard and gets cold. Water condenses on cold surfaces. Metal is another such substance.

When the air in the shed cools at night the moisture in it tries to condense out, and it usually does this on your machines, tools and metal roof sheets etc. Lining the ceiling will serve to catch the drips and probably reduce the amount of moisture in the ceiling area by a degree. Less air flow less moisture. It will help but not fix the problem.

I have seen a number of comments about preventing moisture rising from the floor of the work area, from the ground beneath. My answer to this is forget all about this, it is a waste of time unless you are operating a totally sterile, controlled type of environment. I recently bought a second hand wood lathe with some surface rust issueshttp://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/misc/navbits_start.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/wood-lathe-bargain-138574/index2.html#) Woodwork Forums (http://www.woodworkforums.com/) > WOODTURNING FORUMS (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f232/) > WOODTURNING - GENERAL (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/) http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/iconimages/f8/wood-lathe-bargain_ltr.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/wood-lathe-bargain-138574/index2.html) Wood lathe bargain I have been working in my new unfinished shed extension with the lathe sitting on a steel welding bench while the rain poors down, straight over the edge of the iron and running back onto the floor under my feet. I put down some pavers as my boots leak. 30mm deep puddles over parts of the floor. I removed the head stock casting which had water under it in a puddle at some time in past. My last photo in that thread shows the stain left by the rust, and the lack of stain where completely dry unoiled cast iron was still pristine from machining. This was after being left open with water in puddles around on the ground for about a week. Forget the water from the floor. Look at ventilation and protection.

Thats the lecture finished. The rest is just talking out loud.

Cover with a protective sheet to prevent drips from above and to prevent condensation from forming. I believe that covering the tops and sides will help in this matter but rust from moisture in the sheet is a problem. I have a piece of rubber back material (curtains) which I am going to try on my metal lathe. Heat from light bulb or similar will prevent condensation under a sheet by warming the metal but I am not keen on this idea. When I leave my shed everything is switched off except for any charging devices that happen to be operating.

A canvas or oiled sheet are other possibilities. Next after the rubber backed material I am going to try calico sheets sprayed with oil. Protecting the tools is also essential. I don't enjoy hearing WD40, RP7 etc being mentioned in relation to this subject. "Short Lecture" Do not expect Water Displacement (WD) products to protect tools for any length of time. They are only short term solutions. They are not designed for this job. Use them to clean and free up tools then protect with a proper protector. This comes from reading company descriptions, instructions and from personal experience. "End of Lecture".

Silicon spray is another thing to consider. This is what is used to spray on waterproofs to rewaterproof them. Sprayed on cotton it may be a good solution for a cover. This spray is also good for locks as it lubricates and waterproofs but does not stain clothing (keys in pockets) like oil or graphite. The previous oil and or graphite will continue to do so of course, after being dissolved by the silicon. This is the only thing I use on car locks. Grapite cannot get in because of the build up of mud etc.

Dean