Wood lathe bargain

[Oldneweng]

During an enforced stay in Adelaide I bought a Nova 3000 lathe for $350 including an Australian made chuck, Teknatool 100mm jaws to suit, 6 record cutting tools. It looks like it has barely been used, has surface rust all over unpainted surfaces and needs a stand. I need to make space for it before I can set it up and try it. It had a massive redgum stand but I could not fit it in.

Dean

[orraloon]

Sounds like a very good score. Any chance of some pics?
Regards
John

[Sawdust Maker]

Yeah no pics - didn't happen :rolleyes:

[Oldneweng]

Did so happen!!!! Its in pieces still and will post some as soon as I can arrange space to take pics etc. Tried motor today and it spins like a beauty.

Dean

[Christos]

We always want photos. Some even of tools. :U

[Oldneweng]

Alright you asked for it. Here are some. The two blue items in the foreground of last pic came with it but I don't know what they are. The round piece has no machined surfaces at all. The other one looks like a tool rest but there is nowhere for it to fit. I guess they are just bonuses.

The chuck has "Bonham" and "Made in Australia stamped on it.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

I also picked up this wetstone grinder for $15.00 from another place. It needs work as the base is missing and the (plastic) bushes for the wet stone shaft are worn along with the shaft nearest the wet stone due to rust etc, but with a metal lathe etc it is a simple repair. The normal grinding wheel has "Abbott and Ashby" on the blotters, but has no ID on it other than that.

Dean

[wheelinround]

Alright you asked for it. Here are some. The two blue items in the foreground of last pic came with it but I don't know what they are. The round piece has no machined surfaces at all. The other one looks like a tool rest but there is nowhere for it to fit. I guess they are just bonuses.

The chuck has "Bonham" and "Made in Australia stamped on it.

Dean


Nice score yes some work to do on it but it is a good lathe, I have the same one with extra bed and outrigger. There are some do's and don'ts with this lathe.
The swivel head stock which allows you to turn big stuff should not be over tightened just pinched up same with the belts do not force them hard down. If you would like the Manuel for it pm me your email address.

The toolrest is a smaller one you remove the bigger one.
any chance of a photo of the otherside of the other bit looks like a broken bit off another lathe.

The chuck unless it has an adaptor with it won't fit your lathe but is a hand device all the same.

A good clean up and its all good to go. Hows the Motor sound?

[Oldneweng]

Ok I lied. After cleaning the dirt off it and having a closer look I found the step has been machined in to depth of about 6mm. Inside the step is rough and not level. Centre hole is 14.6mm, step diameter is 45mm and total diameter is 70.7mm.

It is completely covered (Almost) with ripple (?) blue paint.

The tool rest has a post of only 19mm and is not much more than an inch long. The rest that fits the lathe is 25.3mm.

A copy of the manual would be great. Thanks for the offer. Will PM my email address.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

The motor runs like a charm and the chuck is complete with the correct adaptor. I reckon I can make an outrigger if I need one, which I probably will. Have to see whether I need an extension. At $300 they are not cheap.

Dean

[RETIRED]

Ok I lied. After cleaning the dirt off it and having a closer look I found the step has been machined in to depth of about 6mm. Inside the step is rough and not level. Centre hole is 14.6mm, step diameter is 45mm and total diameter is 70.7mm.

It is completely covered (Almost) with ripple (?) blue paint.

The tool rest has a post of only 19mm and is not much more than an inch long. The rest that fits the lathe is 25.3mm.

A copy of the manual would be great. Thanks for the offer. Will PM my email address.

DeanThe tool rest is off another machine and I would say that the disk( which is a banjo or tailstock lock plate) belonged with it. Probably Chinese origin.

[hughie]

tool rest is off another machine and I would say that the disk( which is a banjo or tailstock lock plate) belonged with it. Probably Chinese origin


Yes, the blue is very suspicious.

[Oldneweng]

Sounds like a theory. I'm not familiar with that stye of tailstock lock, but it does seem like a large version. I may be corrected on that point if I am wrong. The tool rest is pretty small tho. It would be off a small lathe. Still the best thought yet tho. The disk looks a bit like the plate holding a grinding wheel on except the small centre hole and the machined step tend to negate that.

Dean

[NeilS]

I also picked up this wetstone grinder for $15.00

The colour of that wet grinding wheel looks distinctly brown in the photo, which might indicate that it is a genuine Japanese waterstone rather than the alox or silicon carbide wheels that usually come on the economy versions of that type of grinder. If that is the case you have a real bargain there. A waterstone wheel of that size being worth many times more than you paid for the entire grinder.
.

[Oldneweng]

I still think it is worth more than the grinder regardless, however the colour is deceiving. Under the plastic end plates/bushes the wheel is white in places and also is flat on one side. :doh:Actually its flat on both sides.

There is a noticible flattened section on the diameter when looking from the side of the wheel so providede the wheel is not acually physically damaged it needs a lot of dressing. I will need to clean up the surface and check for damage however. It looks unusual to me but have never seen or used this type of grinder before. It looks like the wheel was squashed by a flattish surface. Will do the ring test etc. Luckily this wheel does not turn very fast.

Anyone seen this before?

I will be looking for information on the use of this tool when it is finally back together and working properly.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

I have nearly finished cleaning up the lathe. I just need to make a tool to pull the pulley off the motor. The one on the spindle came off easily but this one has not moved yet. I have found one problem. It appears that the lathe has been dropped and landed on the tailstock locking screw.

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The casting is broken and the screw is bent. I will drill and tap the screw head and fit another piece of thread in it. I will leave the casting for now. Not sure of the best way to fix it yet.

177548

There is also some damage to one of the jaws of the scroll chuck but I guess that it will not matter too much. I will clean it up to match the other 3 as close as possible. The damage is only slight. Small nick on jaw 1 as well.

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This is the headstock end. The marks from the rust are easily visible. It only took a couple of minutes to clean it up.


Dean

[issatree]

Hi Dean,
Use a 100mm. bolt, same size of course, cut the head off & part of the thread. Apply a bit of heat, just above the thread, & put a 45Deg. bend on it. Then when inserted, see where it stops, & that position suits you, if not, grind a bit at a time, off the Thread for it to stop where you want it to, then turn a nice wooden Handle for it. Looks & Works a lot better as well.
The Chuck looks like a Nova. So you might like to take the big Spring Ring off the back of the Chuck, pull it to bits, & a Good Wash in Petrol, as it most likely is full of grease. Run all parts over a wire wheel or whatever, reassemble, & squirt some Graphite Powder into it. Messy, but really does the job.
Run in the Lathe, & with a fine File, you should be able to get rid of the Marks, from the Jaws.

[Oldneweng]

The chuck is branded Bonham. There is a picture that shows it in the condition it was in (rusty) when I got it, in this thread. It is leaning against the lathe bed in the 3rd pic. In front and to left of it is a set of 100mm Nova jaws that have never been used. To the right is the jaws in question.

The pic you are referring to is after it was completely stripped, cleaned, oiled and reassembled. It is stained but that is all. I agree with touching up the jaws with a file. Will do that when the lathe is back together.

I am not sure that a wooden handle would work better than the original Knurled knob. Maybe this is because I have more experience with metal working equipment. Maybe an affinity thing. I feel that a lathe turned metal knurled knob would be more precise and I don't want to mess with the broken casting more than necessary.

I am not sure about lubrication of lathe parts but I have an issue with moisture during the winter months so I still have to decide what is best. I have some graphite powder. I am hoping that covering the lathe will protect it from moisture but until I try it I wont know for sure. Meanwhile everything is sprayed with a lanoline based spray as I want to get it all cleaned up without having to start again at the beginning. I don't have anywhere permanent to put it as yet. Lots of work needed to sort out shed.

Dean

[wheelinround]

Dean damn shame about the broken casting maybe a bit of brazing or grind of and braze/weld a nut on. You might be just as lucky and find someone who upgraded to the newer style tailstock and pick it up for a song. Otherwise looking good.

[RETIRED]

Dean, after looking at mine and by the look of the break I think there may be enough "meat" left to put another handle straight in if the thread has not been damaged below it.

The unfortunate part about that set up is that it relies on that to guide the quill and stop it spinning.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Wouldn't it be better to grind back the broken casting, and braize a nut in place?

I think I'd thread the nut onto a matching bolt, screw the bolt into what's left of the casting then spin the nut down to not quite "lock nut" position. That should line up the two threads for tacking, enough that running a tap thru later to clean up won't take out too much meat.

[Oldneweng]

Decisions decisions. I really don't know.

Andy. I like the idea of using a bolt to locate a nut on what is left of the thread after cutting the top part off but that leaves the main threaded part brazed on with direct upwards force against the join.

. There is still some "meat" left to hold a handle in but the quill is also locked with this knob and this will involve some constant wear. (See I have been reading the manual supplied to me by...)

Wheelinround. Yes I read the manual. I like the idea of brazing a piece of metal to the existing break and tapping it to match but I doubt it will match perfectly.

I wish is wasn't so hard! does anybody have an unused tailstock going cheap?

The lathe is now ready for reassembly and I spent several hours today cleaning up parts of my shed to make room for it. It is going to be put on a small wooden desk for now. My Old $50 GMC lathe was on this desk but I never used it and it was piled up with good stuff. I cleared it off (amazing what I found) and will move the desk to the other end of the shed as the previous location is needed to house a cupboard (when I finish making it, after it stops being a support for my trailer floor checker plate (when I update my trailer) which is a table/bench outside....) Anyway this cupboard will house my metal lathe stuff and has a track above it and winch to transport chucks etc so its position is NOT GOING TO CHANGE. (I Hope)

Tommorrow with luck! Oh, I also need to fix a small oops with the motor. No Prob.

Dean

Dean

[RETIRED]

There is still some "meat" left to hold a handle in but the quill is also locked with this knob and this will involve some constant wear. (See I have been reading the manual supplied to me by...) In 15 years I haven't worn mine out. :wink:

They don't need to be tightened much to lock the quill.

[Paul39]

I am hoping that covering the lathe will protect it from moisture but until I try it I wont know for sure. Meanwhile everything is sprayed with a lanoline based spray as I want to get it all cleaned up without having to start again at the beginning. I don't have anywhere permanent to put it as yet. Lots of work needed to sort out shed.Dean

From Practical Machinist:

Newbie, Rust protecting machines end of work session - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/newbie-rust-protecting-machines-end-work-session-229844/)

Rust inhibiting spray - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/rust-inhibiting-spray-84151/)

[Oldneweng]

I was refering to the fact that the locking screw is not fully supported because part of the thread is missing. It may tilt on operation causing wear and it also hasn't got as much support material left to wear so will happen faster. I have tried to lock it but it wouldn't so I guess that the bend is preventing full depth at this stage. I am usually very cautious about such things as I would hate to find I have been the cause of more damage further down the track. I manage to cause enough damage already such as the oops to the motor. Because I didn't know how the pulley was constructed I dropped the motor while removing the pulley. Broke the fan and cover. Have replacements from other motors but will need to replace the fan as it will be needed for my table saw build. SWMBO picked up a steel motor cover from my junk box (8' x 4' plastic grape bin liner on it side) and said would this fit! It is a spare from somewhere and is only a couple of mills oversize. Perfect.

Paul Thanks for that link. When people talk about removing the residue before use I presume they are talking about wood contact surfaces. I cannot see the point with all other surfaces except if it is bad enough to collect dust. I have read about someone who used grease then gladwrap in between use and cleaned it all off before using it. I would never use it. Too hard.

Dean

You are probably right. It would probably outlast me as it is. I will reasess when I fit a new thread to the screw.

[Oldneweng]

The latest update. It has been a while. All day in fact. I have reassembled the lathe on its temporary home, a light weight chipboard topped desk. It is almost finished. I have run it and it runs fine except for rattle from cover plate. There are still a couple of little things to do. The power cord had tape on it so I pulled the tape off to check. The earth wire under it is nearly severed. Luckily I grabbed a power cord from a bin at work. Will check it for damage but it is fairly long anyway.

Aligning the motor on this lathe is difficult. Maybe the same for most but there is no way to get a straight edge anywhere near the pulley edges. I fitted a piece of threaded rod thru the headstock spindle, locked with nuts each side and squared it at end by spinning it by hand. I then used this to measure motor distance at each end of the motor shaft. When the motor was square to spindle I adjusted it in and out to line up pulley edges by clamping a piece of 16mm square to act as a guide along motor bracket. Its not perfect but it will do.

I bought a new 6 groove belt but on looking at the pulleys it appears it is only 5 grooves. What do others have? The belt is 610mm long but this appears to me to be a bit too long. The motor is not sitting in line with the circular mounting holes, but further out. This is not a problem but if the motor was mounted using this method there is no way the belt could be tensioned. The problem I do have is that the curved front motor edge hits on the nylock nut holding the motor mount plate on to the headstock which means there is limited belt adjustment. Again, what do others have.

The edge ot the toolrest looks like it has been used for something it shouldn't have been used for. I am going to have to take a couple of mill off it to clean it up. Shouldn't be too hard.

Now I am thinking about wood to turn for when it is finally ready. I have my eye on a burl which is not far from here. It is completely surrounding one of multiple trunks of a redgum. The trunk is about 300mm in diam. The burl is about 900mm in diam. Complete sphere shape. How would that look hanging off my lathe? There is also a poplar tree laying near my shed that is about 600mm in diam and was dropped a couple of months ago. Would it be worth cutting up, if only for practice? There are huge quantities of redgum and black wattle in the area plus some sheoak and other gum species!

Dean

[bellyup]

Good luck with a 900mm burl on the Nova!! :)
I'm assuming that you won't be spinning all 900mm - in fact it would be a big job just to get it off the tree, let alone mounting it on the lathe.
Redgum burl is one of my favourites - dry burl is dusty to work but looks great when you finish. Green burl can be turned well - it will often ripple as it dries.Show us some piccy's!
Bruce.

[Oldneweng]

It is tempting but is on a main hwy. Sigh. I have got many options tho. Will be looking in future. I will get some photos of that burl just so people can see it. I live near Penola SA. Have you heard of Father Woods. He was a catholic priest who was involved with Sister Mary Mckillop whom I am sure everyone in Oz is sick of Hearing about. There is a tree near here, on the Riddock Hwy which is called "Fathers Woods Tree". The story is that he held services under this tree when he was in the area. It has a sign on it saying "Father Woods Tree". It also has a nice burl on it! Actually I think it is just a tree somebody picked because in his day the wagon track was far west of the current road. He probably never laid eyes on it.

Dean

[bellyup]

Mate, some of my best wood comes from " the long paddock " Even being an atheist I would probably draw the line at chopping that particular burl - in the name of multi religion harmony.

[RETIRED]

Aligning the motor on this lathe is difficult. Maybe the same for most but there is no way to get a straight edge anywhere near the pulley edges. I fitted a piece of threaded rod thru the headstock spindle, locked with nuts each side and squared it at end by spinning it by hand. I then used this to measure motor distance at each end of the motor shaft. When the motor was square to spindle I adjusted it in and out to line up pulley edges by clamping a piece of 16mm square to act as a guide along motor bracket. Its not perfect but it will do. No arguments from me on this. A fair cow of a job.

I bought a new 6 groove belt but on looking at the pulleys it appears it is only 5 grooves. What do others have? I just counted mine and it is 5 grooves. The belt is a 240J610 which I got from Jim Carroll.

The belt is 610mm long but this appears to me to be a bit too long. The motor is not sitting in line with the circular mounting holes, but further out. This is not a problem but if the motor was mounted using this method there is no way the belt could be tensioned. The problem I do have is that the curved front motor edge hits on the nylock nut holding the motor mount plate on to the headstock which means there is limited belt adjustment. Again, what do others have. Mine is an earlier model than yours so can't help unless I saw it.

The edge ot the toolrest looks like it has been used for something it shouldn't have been used for. I am going to have to take a couple of mill off it to clean it up. Shouldn't be too hard. Attack it with a disc sander in an angle grinder. Round off the front edge rather than leave it square. File and sand smooth.:cool:

Now I am thinking about wood to turn for when it is finally ready. I have my eye on a burl which is not far from here. It is completely surrounding one of multiple trunks of a redgum. The trunk is about 300mm in diam. The burl is about 900mm in diam. Complete sphere shape. How would that look hanging off my lathe? There is also a poplar tree laying near my shed that is about 600mm in diam and was dropped a couple of months ago. Would it be worth cutting up, if only for practice? There are huge quantities of redgum and black wattle in the area plus some sheoak and other gum species!

DeanPractice spindle turning first.

Get some 4"x2" pine and rip down the centre. Cut it into 200mm lengths.

Cheap, forgiving on tools, easy to get and if you get a good finish on pine the other stuff is easy.

[Oldneweng]

My old belt is a Gates 240J610. The new one is PJ610/240J. Much the same. When I bought it from Total Rubber in Adelaide the salesman said that in the Melbourne branch they have long tubes of micro groove belts from which they cut off what is required when required. Think of a 5000 groove belt or whatever. My belt has obvious cut edges.

Good idea with rest. I was thinking of grinding back edge vertical instead of angled under. That and your idea should cover it.

Have my eye on a bit of 75 X 75 Pine packing at work. Found my old drive centre. Need to fix centre point. Just a bit of 1/4 in drill bit. Then I am set. The desk the lathe is sitting on is not really good enough for anything tougher than pine anyway.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

My next step is to make a stand for the lathe. I had a look around tonight and found some lengths of 100 x 5 RHS. I figure they will do the job with a plate across the top of each pair and some bracing part way down. What I want to know is how far out should the legs be angled in each direction for stability.

Dean

[RETIRED]

My next step is to make a stand for the lathe. I had a look around tonight and found some lengths of 100 x 5 RHS. I figure they will do the job with a plate across the top of each pair and some bracing part way down. What I want to know is how far out should the legs be angled in each direction for stability.

DeanI personally like the front legs vertical and angle the back ones about 10-15 degrees.

The reason I like them vertical is because a lot of the time you move past the extremities of the lathe and there is nothing worse than stepping (after tripping:rolleyes:) around a leg.

Most of the force is towards the rear but in some cases they can tip forward but if you put weight in the base it will give you a lot more stability.

[Oldneweng]

Sounds good to me. The weight is mostly at the back due to the motor, when spindle turning anyway. It would be on inside if headstock is turned to front for bowl turning. Vertical legs are easier to move around. Will angle the rear legs out 15deg or so to rear and also at each end. Weld 10mm plate or so, on for feet. Bolt to concrete. Still working out the top plate. 125mm channel across the top of legs or 10mm plate with side pieces as well to form channel.

I could fill the legs with cement for stability. I have a friend with a 600mm metal lathe/mill combo he has had for over 20years. He was going to build a heavy steel bench with space to poor a big slab of concrete under the machine. Help to cushion vibration.

Thanks also for help with posting question. Got it sorted now.

I made a tiny bit of sawdust tonight. Just so I could say I had. I actually used a piece of practice wood from when I built a lathe years ago. The friend mentioned above had it at his place helping me improve it when his then wife decided on a split when he was away for work and tossed out the lathe as scrap. Anyway the lathe performed great. Cannot say the same for the blunt gouge tho.

Dean

[woodwork wally]

working with wood t is sharp sharp sharper especially pine as it tears If tools are sharp less work is required by you to get a nice finish all sounds good though and practice will get you everywhere and try to join up with a local club to get help cos this gives you oportunity to develop good habits that really make a good turner cheers ww.wally.

nd Hi guys and gals yep he's back cheers all www

[wheelinround]

What no update photos :U

[Oldneweng]

What no update photos :U

Will get some shortly. Only spent a short time in shed tonight. Had to fix centre point in drive centre, shoved the wood in spent two three mins turning, went inside. Had enough of today. Loaded and brought home a load of corrugated sheet from work. Couple of bits 4.1m x 2.2m. Off a large roller door I think. Brand new but damaged slightly, plus heaps of other pieces of colourbond up to 3m long. One big bit will do for a big door for my new extension. Anyway got home to find our car in ditch across the road from drive. I went past to speak to neighbour who was on side of road in ute. He didn't know why, only guessed. Something to do with mail, turning around, mud, water, slippery and ditch. Turned out he was right. Anyway I went up further with 4wd, tried to turn around. It was lucky for neighbour. Pulled both vehicles out. His son was with him, also got bogged today and neighbour had got bogged himself too. He had an excuse tho. It is wet here at the moment. Anyway I had had enough of today!

Dean

[wheelinround]

Dean thats a busy day time for R&R

[Oldneweng]

Okay I have some update photos. Tonight I worked out what to use for the legs, feet and top plate of the stand and finished cleaning up the lathe tools on a wire brush in drill press. They still need a polish with wet and dry tho. I will knock up a drawing in TurboCad just so I can check dimensions and angles. Tomorrow I have to go into town. SWMBO needs to see the doctor and she wants to buy herself a little chainsaw. A stihl ms170. I also want to pick up an electric chainsaw sharpener I have had put away for me.

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177999

This one is a pic of the adjustment bolt hitting on the motor as mentioned in a previous post.

Dean

[wheelinround]

Dean I'll double check my motor and bolt tomorrow but do not think its hitting like that

mean while here's my stand EDITED 2103hrs Dean the stand has been shortened by 15" to long to fit in my humble workshop.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_aoknvTezfhA/TEfRgylNThI/AAAAAAAAAsc/l6ZZ9OKuR1A/s1600/IMG_5481.jpg

[hughie]

Oh dear, I make my stands the other way around on my short bed lathes. Angled forward for the front legs, giving me a clear area for my feet when working close to the headstock.

Vertical rear legs so I can get around the lathe if needs be. This is for Bowls, hollow forms etc, I dont do much if any spindle work, except maybe handles and I find its handy to be able hang over the end of the short bed sometimes.

All with hollow legs so I can add ballast if required. Although I find with the legs angled sufficently it goes along way to steading the lathe and not much ballast is needed if any.... so far :U

[chuck1]

Alright you asked for it. Here are some. The two blue items in the foreground of last pic came with it but I don't know what they are. The round piece has no machined surfaces at all. The other one looks like a tool rest but there is nowhere for it to fit. I guess they are just bonuses.

The chuck has "Bonham" and "Made in Australia stamped on it.

Dean
could they be base plates for camlock tool rests/ banjo?! from a different lathe

[Oldneweng]

could they be base plates for camlock tool rests/ banjo?! from a different lathe

I am not familiar with any other wood lathes so I couldn't say. There is a close up pic in a later post and a revised description.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

Dean I'll double check my motor and bolt tomorrow but do not think its hitting like that

mean while here's my stand EDITED 2103hrs Dean the stand has been shortened by 15" to long to fit in my humble workshop.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_aoknvTezfhA/TEfRgylNThI/AAAAAAAAAsc/l6ZZ9OKuR1A/s1600/IMG_5481.jpg

What are the dimensions of the stand materials. Mainly the horizontal part. I was going to just fit legs as per the nova cast legs but after seeing your stand decided to look for suitable material for top rail. I brought home a piece of 200 x 100 channel with 6mm flat and 12mm legs, 200cm long. Because the steel I have for legs is actually about 105mm square I will fit them inside the channel, cut to fit level with outside of channel and then angled where the two legs meet.

Your legs appear to be vertical looking from front and the rear legs have more front/rear slant than the front legs. Not being rude here! Have the front legs got any slant forward?

Hughie The reason for this arrangement not being a problem for us is that the Nova headstock rotates for large bowl turning. If you look at that pic you will see a line just below the red sticker on headstock. The top part rotates at that line 360 deg so you can turn large bowls standing in normal front position. You can just see wheelinround's outrigger. I don't have one yet. I will make one. Probably much better.

Dean

[wheelinround]

Dean I didn't make the frame got the lot when bought it.

Frame top box tube is 8"x4"x6ft
legs 3"x2"
height 49"
width of leg spread at bottom 22"

Rear legs angle out more than the front on mine.

Bolts go right through stud bolts are used for headstock area.

If I could use it I would put a plank between the lathe and box tube deaden the noise even a ply one would do.

Attached pics showing leg angle, welds and headstock overhang of box tube. Also cam bolt which does not hit unless fully pulled to release. check the cam plate setting on yours.

Ray

[Paul39]

Dean I didn't make the frame got the lot when bought it.
If I could use it I would put a plank between the lathe and box tube deaden the noise even a ply one would do.
Ray

Filling the box tubes with sand will stop the ringing and add weight in the legs.

[wheelinround]

Filling the box tubes with sand will stop the ringing and add weight in the legs.


I have enough trouble moving it now LOL. Foam would do nicely light and sound be gone.:U

[Paul39]

I have enough trouble moving it now LOL. Foam would do nicely light and sound be gone.:U

Good thought. I have a Hegner with a square tube bed that rings like a bell. A 1/4 inch hole and a can of Great Stuff foam should take care of that.

Thanks for the Idea.

[Oldneweng]

Wheelinround.

What length belt do you have. Mine is 61cm. It is only at extension that the nut hits the motor but it is very close when tightened normally and it seems to me that this situation is not right. What do you mean by check the Cam Plate setting? Is there a way to change the cam plate position. It sits the same as in your picture with the cam plate sticking up above the slotted bracket. I just think that a smaller belt would prevent this problem but I am not going to buy a new one at this stage. Much better things to waste money on unless it it important. The channel I have is only 200mm x 75mm not 100mm as I said. Being channel it will not have problems like yours and Pauls. I now need to work out how long to leave the channel. It is a toss up between length for future proofing and space to fit it in the shed.

Will post pics of stand when I get more done but at the moment I need to concentrate on other things such as fixing cattle crush so I can mark cattle and take them to market and get some money and allow the grass to grow for once. We have 43 acres and are way overstocked. I have been neglecting the property for too long. We have a branch down over the circular turnaround part of the drive which has been there for about 2 months. Our car and ute fit under it so have not worried too much as there have been many issues recently, such as my wife had breast cancer. She had op in early july and is now almost recovered but it all takes a toll.

Dean

[Paul39]

Dean,

You certainly have your hands full at the moment.

I hope your wife has a complete recovery. My best wishes to both of you.

[Oldneweng]

I assembled all the materials to build the stand today in the hope that I might do something with it. I have been busy with other projects and one or two odd jobs around the farm. It is a right shame I have to go to work to earn a living. I have plenty to occupy me right here.

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One of the things I have been doing is improving my metal cutting bandsaw which can be followed in the metalwork forum. Now it is back together and improved I can use it to cut the pieces for the stand except the top channel which is too big. I am going to have to cut that with an angle grinder.

Dean

[Paul39]

Now it is back together and improved I can use it to cut the pieces for the stand except the top channel which is too big. I am going to have to cut that with an angle grinder.Dean

I sometimes use an abrasive blade in a 7 inch portable circular saw (Skillsaw around here). I clamp a guide on the part and use it to guide the saw, go slowly and it will make accurate cuts.

The same would also work in a table, radial arm, or miter saw. Be careful of sparks in sawdust.

[Oldneweng]

I have a ryobi 8 inch circular saw and a stack of abrasive disks to fit. That is about all that this saw is used for. I also have a metal cutoff saw that will handle it. I don't mind using an angle grinder for just a couple of cuts like that but as the cutoff saw will do it I might just use that. I only just checked if it would fit. Since getting the bandsaw I prefer it to abrasive cutting for a number of obvious reasons!

Dean