Strip build query

[OtakiriLad]

I am in the throes of researching the ins and outs of building a strip-built canoe or kayak.

In all the reading I have done I have not come across any instructions to shape/bevel/fair the forms particularly at the stem or stern where the fore-aft curvature of the strips being laid on the forms is greatest. I presume this would be necessary to gain a fair curve on the strips as well as providing something substantial to staple the strips to.

Is this something that does not matter or is it something that is assumed but not described?
Dave

[Daddles]

I can't speak for strip planking as I haven't done it. However, I've been involved in five ply clinker boats now and there is no need to bevel the frames. The plans show the outside shape of the frame, so just cut them to that size. The trick is to place the frame on the correct side of the station line so that the frame accurately represents the shape at that point - ie, in the bow end of the boat, the frame goes to the aft of the station line and vice versa at the other end.

As for producing a bend by nailing the strip/plank flat against the frame - you'd be flat out doing that and seeing that all you need to do is hold it in the correct position, it's easy to make sure it's still fair.

Eyeball technology - that's what it all boils down to.

But like I said, my experience is ply clinker, not strip plank. If a strip planker would like to blast me out of the water, I'm happy to listen and learn.

Cheers
Richard

[OtakiriLad]

Many thanks Richard. Its good to know there is one thing less to worry about.
Dave

[graemet]

Dave,
Richard is right as long as you are not expecting to need a lot of force to bend your strips, otherwise you will need very long staples or screws or they will pull out! For a canoe, I can't see a problem, but some dinghy bows have a very tight curve and the planks need to be screwed or clamped until the glue is cured. Putting the frame on the station line so that the frame can be bevelled allows you to staple or screw the plank down tight. Don't forget to cover the edge of the frames with that brown packing tape before you start glueing or your temporary frames will assume an air of permanency!
Cheers,
Graeme

[mike44]

I have built a stripper. You do have to bevel not only the bow and stern but also the intermediate stations. The only stations that are not beveled would be the two or three in the middle.This is trial and error. The way I did it was to bevel the bow and stern with a sabre saw 45°.You will see that this is not enough, bevel back with a block plane or belt sander.Take a strip and staple or clamp it across the stations.Start at the gunnel. This will show you how much has to be beveled. Mark the station edge, move strip up 3", repeat. Do this until you you reach the point where you do not need to bevel anymore.This will take some time but is worth it.

mike

[bitingmidge]

I haven't bevelled either!!

Usually(?) one would laminate an inner stem piece around the form, which would be bevelled, and to which the strips would be glued.

The bevelling of the intermediate forms is (in my view) a waste of time. Providing you set the bearing edge on the relevant station line you will end up with a fair shape.

Ross Leidy's site http://www.blueheronkayaks.com/ has some pretty clear photos of all steps... if you are building a canoe, check the "Wee Lassie" links for a fanatic's version!!

Cheers,

P

[mike44]

I agree that beveling the intermediate stations is not a must. I have built 7 strip canoes over 4 years. When you bevel the intermediate stations it is easier to get a fair curve. This will depend on the thickness of the forms. Any form thicker than 1/2" will benefit by beveling. This is especially true if you do not use staples.
My station are screwed to a frame of 2x6" with 2x4 cross pieces. The frame is made to pivot on stands that are temparily clamped at whatever angle I want. This makes glueing the strips easier.I tilt the frame when I get about 2/3 rds of the way up on each side. I used to use two different height trestles, but found this method easier because the glue will stay in the cove when the form is tilted, plus always working at a comfortable height.
mike

[grcau]

Mike - your setup sounds great - any chance of some photos?

Thanks

Grant

[mike44]

Grant, next time I put the strongback together I'll take photos. Everything is stored in the loft of my shop as I do not have enough room to store it permanently.
Simple to make though. Add 4'-0" to the length of needed strongback so ypu have room at each end to work. Make an A-frame or similar frame to hold a 3/4" plwood disk (or square piece) .I use a 3/4"x10" carriage bolt for a pivot on each end. The bolt goes thru plywood and frame. The plywood is fastened with nails or screws to the ends of the strongback.If I recall I make the center of the pivot about 26" off the floor. When you want to turn the strongback you will need someone to clamp the ends for you ,as you will be lifting from the center.I work alone so I added an eye bolt to the center of the strongback and lift with a comealong hanging from above.I tried just lifting and propping the strongback. This works too, One time it slipped, so I went with the comealong.After clamping I add a couple of lagscrews so I can remove the clamps.
This is the general idea, change it to suit your needs.
mike