Protecting the milling Table

[simonl]

Hello all,

After reading the latest thread by Morrisman, it prompted to wonder what people did (if anything) to protect the mill table from general use and abuse.

If high accuracy is not needed, are you tempted to put a sheet of paper down or something similar to protect the table from scratches and gouges? I guess not unlike the plastic on the couch from the movie "my big fat Greek Wedding" anyway I just thought of that.....

Or are scratches and marks (short of accidently drilling into the table :o) just part and parcel of a well used mill?

This is certainly something I would rather find out now rather than after using my mill for 12 months and realising that there is a common practise that saves a fair amount of surface wear.

I have read about the clamping plates that are available to sit on top of the table but I figured they were more to allow for versatility in clamping and workpiece holding?

I didn't want to put this in Morrismans thread as I didn't want to hyjack it.

Cheers and thanks,

Simon

[Dave J]

With vices, rotary table, etc, I just bolt strait to the table after checking them for burr's and make sure they are spotless clean with a thin coat of oil.
For bolting things like plate to the table I usually use printer paper as it's cheap and we always have it. It will help protect the table and also help with grip from any unevenness. Paper also helps in the vice jaws if you don't want to mark something, or are after more grip.

At the side of my vice I use perspex covers to protect the table from tool dings etc. Some guys use masonite, timber, rubber, old blow mould cases from power tools cut up (like screw driver cases) It also helps keep the table T slots clean which makes it easier to clean up.

Dave

[Stustoys]

Hi Simon,
I use phone books for paper(paper also improves grip) in the vice, throw it and the swarf out each time I undo the vice, it keeps a vice, parallels etc clean. Cardboard under clamps etc. A couple of Alum oven trays to put stuff in other than directly on the table. A couple of steel oven trays to mount the vice in to help with coolant control(there are some pictures around some where I'll dig them out if you need them). I also bought some PVC sheet to make table covers out of, but that hasnt happened yet.

Stuart

[morrisman]

I've been reading Harold H's excellent books and in some cases he recommends using paper underneath work pieces on the milling table. He tends to fix the work pieces directly to the mill table, rather than use a vice , which he seems to have an aversion to . This seems to be his personal way of doing jobs, and I'm not going to argue with him .

Mike

[pipeclay]

Sure this paper is not used to assure that the item being clamped is flat,if it is generally rolly paper or tissue paper is used as other papers are generally a bit too thick.

[simonl]

Thanks guys!

Once again you've all been a big help. Cheers.

Simon

[electrosteam]

Guys,
be careful with paper.

A couple of years ago I clamped a vise to a table with some interposing bond paper.
It was left there for a few weeks.
When removed, there was an etch mark in the table tracing around the outline of the vise contact face.
It cannot be cleaned off and is still visible, but cannot be detected by the finger.

I put it down to the acid in the paper combining with condensation overnight.

I cannot remember which forum I posted photos, but the consensus then was that paper was not necessary.
If you use paper, don't leave it there long if condensation is possible.

Happy machining,
John

[Dave J]

Hi John,
Good to see you back around, how have you been? And how is that mill going?

I only use paper for a few hours, I use it for things like when the grandfather or I have a piece of surface rusted angle/flat bar/plate and want one side milled flat. It saves my table from getting indented when the clamps get tightened and the rust coming directly into contact with the table. Also good if you can't get enough clamps on the job as the paper helps with grip.
I have text books here that say to use thin card as well.

Dave

[electrosteam]

Dave,
The mill was mothballed straight after Christmas last year, together with all the other tools in the workshop because I agreed to do a scope of electrical work in Gladstone.
Finished my 'tour of duty' last week.
I made a couple of drill table clamps using the drill and files during one home visit, but that was the total for the year so far.

It has taken a few days to unwind and catch up with family and friends, now I am in the workshop.
First item was a board for the lathe to hold all the chuck keys and spanners used to manage the lathe.
Now I have my 5 inch gauge electric locomotive on the bench getting a check-over ready for running trains in a couple of weeks.
Busy tomorrow but, on Tuesday, the lathe will be cleaned down and a start made on a spacer for the Y ball screw on the Kondia mill.
I also need an end stop on the ball screw which will involve removing the nut - could be interesting.

The mill spindle is now operating with a VFD and I have got new banjo fittings form Arc Eurotrade for an oiling system to the ball screw nuts.

Keep you posted,
John.

[old_fella]

It is ok to use paper, paper is even used under workpieces on surface grinders to help protect the magnetic chuck, you just got to watch out if there is ink on part of it and not on the other it will cause it to tilt a bit but on the mill you probably wouldnt notice it.